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rbl2

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Everything posted by rbl2

  1. There are people in the states who rebuild them. I got mine from Gary Wallace. He deals in Chevy 4's (pre 1928) I don't have a link to his website but here's his ph no. I don't doubt at all that he can help you with your vacuum tank 314-293-1991 He owns cars other than Chevys and no doubt ois familiar with them. As well, there weren't too many manufacturers of vacuum tanks. I have enough spare parts to build another one or two. I may do that when it warms up.
  2. Have you tried Gary Wallace? I don't have the link to his website but here's his ph no. 314-293-1991 He specializes in Chevy 4s. I get almost all my parts from him. He's reliable and honest.
  3. While you were writing you much more simplified and understandable description of vacuum tanks I was typing my much more complicated and not understandable description with two fingers.
  4. If I had one if front of us I could explain it much easier. I'll do the best I can. They are a remarkably simple device and quite reliable, albeit with a few shortcomings. I read someplace the technology behind these things is about 3,000 years old and still used in jet engines. Don't quote me on that. The vacuum tank is a cylindrical shaped object with a seperate canister inside it that is about 2/3 the length of the outside canister and rests on the top of the outside canister. With me? Think oatmeal box with an inner canister. At the bottom of that inner canister is what is called a flapper valve. More on it later but that's all there is to the inner canister. The top of the vacuum tank has 3 lines running to it. One is supply (fuel), another is vacuum, and some, but not all, have a third, which is for overflow. Attached to the top, on the inside, are 2 small wires that go through a tube to where the vacuum line is attached. One is an atmospheric valve and the other a suction valve. It is important that these wires are clean and move freely. B12 will do a good job of cleaning them. There is a small gap of about .018-.028. No where have I ever seen how to make this adjustment. These wires attach to a float. On the bottom of the outside canister is the line that feeds gas to the carb. When the canister is low on fuel the float drops, opening the vacuum valve. This then pulls fuel from the gas tank. The vacuum also shuts the flapper valve, which stops the fuel from the inner cannister from flowing to the bottom of the outer canister. Still with me? Once the inner canister is full the vacuum is shut off. The flapper valve opens and fuel from the inner canister drops to the lower portion of the vacuum tank where it is gravity fed to the carb. There is an adjustment on the flapper valve of .022 -,028 but I have never figured out how to adjust it. I do know if it's not opening enough gas will not flow freely to the lower portion of the canister thus causing the carb to run low on fuel. If it opens too much the inner tank will never fill with fuel and the carb will flood. Make sure the flapper valve and the area where it seats is clean, free of any lint and abrasions as these could cause it to not shut completely. The process then repeats itself as necessary. Under load the vacuum tank does not receive enough vacuum to pull gas from the tank. Remember vacuum windshield wipers that wouldn't work when going up hill or in 1st or 2nd gear? Same thing with the vacuum tank. I've only had the vacumm tank low on fuel once going up a hill. I simply took my foot off the gas pedal for 1 or 2 seconds and all was well again. It's my understanding the fuel in those tanks is good for about 7 miles. A simple test of the vacuum tank is to remove the inside, fill the canister with gas, and see how the car runs that way. If it runs ok then the problem is not in the carb or in electrical system. Having done that you can set a gas can on the running board and run a clear line (avaliable at most hardware stores) from it to the vacuum tank. Being clear will allow you to watch as it pulls fuel. Once the vacuum tank is filled the fuel in the hose will drop back to the gas tank. This is my back up computer, If I had my regular one, which is under repair, I could post pictures and links that would clearl;y show the insides of a vacuum tank making it much easier to understand what I've been talking about. No doubt I have made a very simple process and piece of equipment sound very complicated. My apologies. More simply, the vacuum tank pulls fuel from the gas tank. When the vacuum tank is full it quits using vacuum, the flapper valve opens allowing gas to gravity feed to the carb. Once the float reaches a certain level the vacuum valve opens, pulling the flapper valve closed and pulling gas from the fuel tank. Which reminds me. Make sure the fuel line from the bottom of the vacuum tank to the carb is on a downhill slope. Otherwise the carb may starve for fuel. I hope this helps.
  5. My 26 Chevy uses the same system as your car. I have two fuel filters on it. A modern one, clear plastic so I can see how dirty it is, is placed about 18" from the gas tank where it can't be seen w/o some effort. I also have a sediment bowl/filter just about 2" from the vacuum tank on the gas tank side. With the engine idling I can watch it "bubble" very briefly, less than a second, about once a minute or two. That happens when the vacuum tank refills as it is supposed to. At an increased idle speed the bubbling cannot be seen as it refills much more quickly. My car runs fine. However. for a long time it used to run for about 7 minutes and quit. I actually timed it. It would start right back up and do it again. I replaced everything no less than twice and many things 3 times. There's not that much there that can cause problems. After much grief I concluded the problem was in the vacuum tank even though I had replaced it 3 times with rebuilt ones. A gentleman whom I have never met on the other side of the continent took the vacuum tank off his running 28 Chevy and gave it to me, gave as in free, just to see if that would solve the problem. It did. Three years later I'm still trying to figure out how to repay that mans kindness. I also had a problem with crud in the gas tank. The tank had rusted and by the time I caught it, it was too late. Long story short I had it cooked and lined. I kept a close eye on the sediment bowl and carb for several hundred miles after that. There was a very fine substance that would get past both fuel filters and into the carb. I could drop the carb bowl and see what looked like a very small am't of fine dust in it. That "dust" would clog the carb. It was easily washed out with B12 and blown away with light air pressure. An electric fuel pump would cause more problems then it would solve. They put out too much pressure for those old carbs. I do know of one man who uses one when he needs to go up long hills. The load on the engine robs it of using vacuum for the tank, much like it would for vacuum windshield wipers. He has a toggle switch on it and turns it on for just a second or two as needed to refill the vac tank. I have found that when there is a problem with vacuum tanks it's usually in the vacuum line or inside the tank itself. One time I found one that the flapper valve wasn't closing correctly. The car would run but would sometimes stop as if it was out of gas. The pot metal holding the flapper valve clip had a hairline fracture in it. The inner tank had to be replaced to solve the problem. Make sure all your fittings are tight. No need for teflon. Mine doesn't have any on it. It wasn't used in the day. I'm told it can cause problems but I don't see how if it is applied properly. If you use it, make sure none is covering the opening in the fuel or vacuum lines. Inside the tank, where the float attaches to the top, are some very small openings. That's where my problem was. Those little openings were clogged and it was very difficult to see. I found it only by comparing one with another. A good soaking of B12 and a paper clip solved that problem. Also make sure the float is good and does not have fuel in it. You can hold it close to your ear and shake it, listening for gas sloshing around in it. You can also place it in a pot of very hot water and look for air bubbles. You don't need to add anything to your fuel system such as an anti-perc valve. It wasn't needed years ago and it's not needed now. Those cars ran just fine the way they were made. I drive mine all the time. It does fine around town as well as on the open road, although I only drive it at about 45 mph. I hope I have been of some help to you.
  6. <----- No vibration problems there to speak of. I've read that the Model A is a smoother riding car. It's been too many years since I rode in one to make a fair comparison. I don't have problems finding parts. I have been told for many years though that Ford parts are easier to find but not necessarily cheaper. I wouldn't know about that as I have never compared prices between the two. My car is loud though and I'm told it sounds now as it did when new. To the original question, can a Chevy man enjoy a Ford? Of course he can, but he may never be truly happy with the purchase if he's always wanted a Chevy. Friends don't let friends drive Model A's
  7. Hi Austin, First, I want to welcome you to the world of old cars. It's a fun hobby. It can be an expensive one but doesn't have to be. I think your choice of a 1957 Buick is a good one. It shouldn't be too expensive to work on and the parts should be fairly easy to find. The Buicks of the mid 50's are a pleasure to drive. I have a 56 Buick Special but I rarely drive it as I am focusing my attention on my 26 Chevy. You will find many here who will more than gladly help you. No doubt you will also enjoy cruises and shows, although because you are so young you may feel a little out of place. Don't take that personally, it's the nature of the beast. Very few people your age are into cars this old. Us older folks are always glad to welcome someone in the fold, especially the younger ones. It assures us the hobby and love of these cars will survive us. I was thinking a short while ago about you, your age, and your Buick. Your Buick is 51 years old. I was 16 years old in 1966. Had I bought a 51 year old car then it would have been a 1915 whatever. I sure wish I had but no doubt they were harder to find then a mid 50's car is today. In any case, again, welcome to the hobby and good luck with your car. For many of us, the search for parts, the time, effort, expense, and labor put into making and keeping our cars road worthy, is far more than half the fun.
  8. I just posted the link on a woodworkers forum I frequent. Maybe that will help catch these low lifes and return that T to its rightful owner.
  9. I bought my 26 with the intention of driving it w/o modifications. However, as much as is practical I avoid areas of heavy traffic. It will not be a daily driver but at this sitting, weather permitting, I drive it 1-3 times a week. Neither am I above going on an extended road trip with it. I also have a 56 Buick Special, all original. I rarely drive it but only because I am focusing my attn on the 26. I wouldn't hesoitate at all to drive the Buick in heavy traffic at todays speeds. I think a book like you are talking about would be great, especially for those just entering the hobby. No doubt there would be some information in it for those of us who have been "down that road" before.
  10. I do not use any additives in my 26 Chevy.
  11. I wouldn't allow my son to get his drivers license until he not only could drive a straight shift but could do so to my satisfaction. In my 45 years of driving not over 18 months has been with an automatic.
  12. rbl2

    29-30 Chevrolet

    You need to be a member to have direct access to the expert, yes. But you don't need to be a member to post on the forum. Posting questions will get you the answerrs you need, often from the tech and always from owners of cars identical to your own.
  13. rbl2

    29-30 Chevrolet

    Go to the VCCA forum. You'll find experts there.
  14. Snakes do not have ears. They cannot hear. they rely on vibration and heat to detect predators and prey.
  15. I got a cat to get rid of the meeses. Then I got a pitbull to get rid of the cat. The cat promptly showed the pit who was boss and they've been getting along fine ever since. My pit is an embarrasment to pitbulls worldwide. If you're not careful it'll lick you to death and beat you with its tail. It did kill a possum one night but only because it thought it was a toy and it didn't put up a fight. Now, please don't turn this into a pitbulls are dangerous thread. Let's stick with snakes. I'm quite fond of them.
  16. Someone once asked me if I collect antique cars. Umm.... aahhhh.... well..... I have two. I guess technically speaking, that's a collection.
  17. Any place that restores surveyors instruments should be able to make it look like new as well. You couldn't pay me enough to paint that shell.
  18. I seriously doubt it is a poisonous snake as they hibernate this time of year. Any other snake would be good to have around to keep rodents away.
  19. Try Gary Wallace first. Although he specialises in Chevy 4's he also has later parts. You might also try the Filling Station There's no reason why you can't buy the individual parts for your carb.
  20. A few weeks back I went outside and was surprised to find a young lady and her accomplice trying to start my car. catching them in the act I decided it would be best if I took pictures so I could document the event. Here she is trying to start the car. Apparently she couldn't reach the foot starter. Here she is making sure the horn works Here she is about to drive away. Fortunately she forgot to turn the fuel on and never made it out of the drive way. Her accomplice is her father, my son. We figured we'd start her out young, making the young thief my first, and only to date, grand child. By the time she's old enough to appreciate these pictures, the car should be over 100 years old.
  21. I guess I don't think large enough. All I want is a pair of hinges for the trunk on this old car. <------
  22. I prefer the 4 legged ones that purr and of those experience has shown me that an old mama barn cat that has had several litters works the best.
  23. 3 or 4 good squirts of oil in each cylinder should be sufficient. Leave the plugs out while you turn over the engine as oil in the top will build compression. Once you've turned it over for about 1 full minute it should be ok to replace the plugs. Once their back in keep the coil wire removed and turn the engine over until it starts to hold oil pressure. That works on tha assumption it has a gauge instead of a light. If all it has is a light spin the engine 2-3 minutes and replace the coil wire and hope for the best. Good luck.
  24. rbl2

    1941 Ford

    Although I am for the most part a purist I do stray from that with this one thought: It's your car, have fun with it. Life is too short to do otherwise. See that car over there? <------ I drive it as often as I can. I can't drive it in heavy traffic for safety reasons and I won't drive it during inclement weather but I sure don't hesitate to drive it the rest of the time. That's what I got it for and I'm having fun doing it. Have fun with that '41.
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