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Everything posted by ZondaC12

  1. My '38 is strictly around town. I don't have anywhere I really wanna go on the highway with it. But occassionally I might be, or on a high-speed secondary road, and sometimes I'll get all "courageous" (Ha!) and take 'er up to 60, or just a little over. It really smooths out and honestly rides so nice at that speed, and engine RPM too. Through the firewall things sound much more like a high pressure rush of air, not moving parts. Buuuuut then I get to thinking of those long rods flying around at that speed, and listening close it sounds "busy" as others have said. Then I slow the hell down. I can't believe peak HP is at 3200. I don't think I've ever spun mine that fast once. So what's the redline, 4 grand? Ha! See ya later connecting rods!... I'd love to build up a hot-rod straight 8 with a stout bottom end JUST so I could rev it to 4-5 grand like an engine 30-40 years newer. That alone would help with acceleration, and top end cruising speed, provided you don't mind listening to it. It's not funky noises that bother me....it's knowing they are symptoms of something BAD that bothers me!
  2. That still makes me sick to think about. Stuff like that makes you want to go on a rampage...
  3. Mike, I have been a member here since 2005, haven't been on in probably a year or so, just found this and wanted to say CONGRATS! Nice find man. Saw the pictures and it instantly reminded me of back then, in early '05 when I was just shy of 16 years old, seeing for the first time what really lurked in the garage my dad had been keeping the car in since 1980. He passed away in late '03 and I inherited the car. Had never seen it before. What a rush, isn't it? Beneath the dust, a surface in that good of shape, as well as the interior. Yours looks entirely servicable, the dash of course stands out. I think that's my favorite part of the entire interior, almost my favorite part of the car itself! Cannot believe you still have the running board trim strips ON there and intact! Grrrrrr can you sense the jealousy? Haha Hope that you got to drive it before winter hit, and if not then you'll be like I was at 16, hardly able to contain yourself anticipating the spring. Happy motoring!!! Paul
  4. Yup, had that mentioned to me as well. Never realized what purpose that kind of thing serves....you want, ideally, heat at your heatercore before the thermostat opens....that would be an awful long time before the cabin would unfreeze you in the dead of winter! So that lets it flow through the heater hoses as well. Buuuuut once the stat opens, that doesn't matter anymore. Should it be ignored, NO, why do something halfway? However, that won't cause an overheating problem, assuming the thermostat works. And if it hasn't been mentioned yet, get a 160 degree stat, that is actually the correct stock one anyway if you look at a shop manual, but nevertheless. I'm pretty sure the NAPA by me was kind and knowledgeable enough to just take a measurement I had and find a 160 stat that fit there, seeing as there was no listing for a '38 Buick stat. At the time anyway. And PLEASE don't get one by Mr. Gasket. At least get a Stant "Super-stat" they're a few dollars more and probably more sturdy. That's about all that's out there but I've had friends tell me they bought basic Stant ones that got stuck after not too long. Oh well. At least it's real easy to get to on these engines! :D
  5. Tishabet, Get. That. Radiator. Boiled. Out. Not trying to sound snotty or mean, just don't even think twice about it. If it's original and you dont KNOW the entire history, I BET they'll find junk in there and it'll run better. I thought mine was good too with the "shade tree radiator test". Yeah, that's why its called that. Purely useless. My entire problem was the radiator. Things pointed to and away from it, but they found a small leak, and "a little crap in there". Must have been more than that, or just enough clogging several cores because after doing that it went from a behavior similar to yours to running 140-160 degrees *all the time* no matter what driving conditions, below about 85 degrees outside. Even in 90+ degree heat, it refuses to shoot up and slooooowly climbs towards 190 or so but will not boil over ever either. I learned from another vehicle as well as the '38 that the fill it and let it flow test is useless. Truth: You do NOT need all or most of the cores free for it to "flow well". Was weird to find out, but its definitely true. You probably have enough blocked so that it flows easily but flowing easily doesnt mean it's getting cooled.
  6. If the lower hose, like you said, is all good then first just check all the vital signs, make sure everything is right. Timing, fuel, etc. Make sure it's not too rich or too lean, carb is alright...a small issue but nothing wrong with putting everything equal. I assume it does start and run smooth and sound right? If yes then I'd argue the timing is probably within range, but check it anyway. Definitely do a compression test, crank it with all spark plugs out, engine already warmed up, wide open throttle while cranking with the compression gauge hooked up. Was the engine rebuilt? Entirely gone through, paint stripped off, hot tanked and cleaned out? I was utterly shocked honestly to not find tons of crap in my 248 when I had the head off this winter, but they say buildup likes to occur in the back of these engines because they are mounted such that they tilt backward just a little bit. Might have plugged passages. Do you *KNOW* the radiator is good? I learned that lesson, I thought it flowed pretty well, filling it and letting water run out the bottom, it came out fast. But clearly that's a poor test....it must have had too many cores plugged because I threw down the stinkin' $110 and had it boiled out, a couple small leaks they found patched, and painted. That was the silver bullet. Granted this is a '38 not '39 with the grille problem (which is not a myth, the airflow is restricted and doesn't help but doesn't guarantee brutal overheating like you're experiencing in any conditions. Youre in CT, we've been having some hot days recently but up until today here in NY anyway it hasnt been 95-100 degrees or more. What I mean to say....is that don't let someone tell you that "all those old straight eights always ran hot". I heard that from soooo many guys at car shows when my rig was blowing up. And not to slam them, they are all good people but these things get passed on and on and circluate like any old wives' tale. The cooling system on a late 30's Buick I-8 is AMPLE to take care of the engine's heat output. Anything below a hot humid 80 degree or higher summer day and my '38 won't go above 160. A cool 50 degree evening, it wont go past 130. All I know is what the gauge says, I aint lyin!!! And Ive done nothing like change the pulley size or go to a bigger more-bladed fan or anything. 100% stock cooling system, 91000 miles young. Just saying that it should be able to take care of itself.... I think it's the radiator. The cooling system is not very complicated, only so many things that can go wrong. Naturally make sure you installed the thermostat right, what temperature was it? If it wasnt a 160 degree, get a 160 degree one. Test it in a pot of boiling water on the stove, make sure it works as it should. I've had a bad brand new thermostat, that wasn't fun to find out!
  7. Wouldn't know about 38 vs 39. Though there is a guy around here with an amazingly clean unrestored '39 roadmaster that usually brought it out to the multiple cruise ins around here each week last summer, but lately has had his same condition '41 caddy out. Im sure the 39 will be out soon, I'll have him open his trunk, Im sure he'll be glad to!
  8. http://forums.aaca.org/f165/looking-pic-original-truck-liner-38-a-279357.html#post746493
  9. Well if it's literally overpowering and you can't hear yourself think then yes I'd say something is wrong haha.
  10. Whats the deal with the "noisy first gear?" Is it chewed up? Or just making a howling/whining noise? If its the latter, it's supposed to do that. 2nd gear is a little quieter. Its all because of the torque tube. The howl resonates in there. I love it.
  11. Yeah you should ask Mercedes-Benz why the SL looked the same for 16 years!! LOL
  12. Spring is here and the car is finally on the road of course.... I am overjoyed to report that it runs and sounds like a brand new engine. I'm amazed. No noises under any conditions at all, not to mention some increased smoothness I think from lapping the valves and cleaning everything while it was apart. These things really have some muscle when you can actually USE it!!! Today is in the mid-60s, and the thermometer won't even break 140 degrees. Equally shocking. There will be three things still around at the end of the universe. Cockroaches, 1980's ford 300 CI straight 6's.....and this car.
  13. Thankfully the original craze "inspired" by the movie has subsided I would say. At least where I live, I wouldn't say EVERY clapped-out rotted stock civic has a hideous park bench attached to the trunk, decals for thousands of parts not actually on the car, and the obligatory section of water main blasting out anything BUT the sound of raw power hanging beneath the back bumper. Funny you mention that about me and that little piece of terminology. Maybe I'm am ambassador between this crowd and "those damn kids!!!!!!!" I have a flowmaster that I had spare from a setup my cougar had, and that's what I have on the Buick, and it's dumped off before the axle (just like the cougar's dual setup is....hmmmm kind of a pattern here...??? :cool:) but I like the sound that has. Of course at 50 mph there is a large drone, they dont call em Dronemasters for nuttin! At 60 it suddenly goes away and is a lot more civil. The absolutely massive stock muffler these had I'm sure is whisper quiet.
  14. Figure 1 details what modifications a Licensed Toyota Service Tech shall perform on any Toyota model brought in for recall work regarding the recent uncontrollable acceleration issue. Refer the tech to the procedure outlined in Appendix A in the unlikely event that the problem persists after repair is made.
  15. Well I've only got one Cougar, I definitely wouldn't mind being able to say I've got 2 cougars, one car. AHEM HMMPH!!!
  16. Hahahaha. Well for one thing...I was more referring to stevo but yes...good point hmmmmm. What's she got under the hood of the fastest one? The Coug' runs a 14.8 in the 1/4! Not too bad for a boat anyway.
  17. Well then I'll make sure I'm in the cougar instead, TRY 'n' catch me.
  18. Yeah, in 1940 the dimensions changed. http://1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Volume%20IV%20Issue%202%20(October%201985).pdf This article, granted its from the mid '80s whereas the others are from ten years later so the knowledge may not have been there, but the drawing lists "1940-52" torque tube etc. It might be that ring and pinions through '55 fit in a '40-'52 third member...but yea, "so close yet so far away"!! It also goes through that process of modifying your driveline, so someone had figured it out back then anyway too.
  19. Hahahahahaha d'oh! A small part of me was worried that I wasn't silly enough with the post. The '38 aint goin NOWHERE. The point was in reference to *ahem* the wildcat picture posted LOL.
  20. Hey I see you're still toying with this idea No developments I'm aware of...and the biggest issue being supply and demand for sure..last I remember a steep price of rougly $2k from that one machinist who was willing to do that deal to custom make 3.6:1 ring and pinion sets if several people wanted to give him business. That or finding a 3.6:1 R&P intended/from a '38 Special with the Self Shifter trans. Good luck on that one. This prompted me to do some digging for that index again, and I think Im gonna spend the final half hour of this boring rainy Friday night downloading as many of these as possible, who knows maybe the site will be gone someday. 1937 and 1938 Buicks www.1937and1938Buicks.com Here is the index of torque tube articles. The previous link has MOST of them scanned and uploaded. There are a few that he does not have and they are listed as "Need _ " whatever number issue it was. This is a problem here.... http://1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Torque%20Tube%20Technical%20Index%20By%20Frank%20Freda.pdf There are several articles about better rear end ratios. One of which involves a 1955 entire rear axle and torque tube....which is shorter than a 1937/1938. The guy did extensive work to extend the tube and driveshaft...definitely not a simple part swap deal. There is one article that I cant find again now and adobe reader keeps crashing so Im done trying. But it mentions how someone fit a 1950's 3.4 R&P in his 38 pumpkin with "some machining". It says this is detailed in the May/June 1993 issue. Yep, you guessed it, not available on that site. Its interesting, there are a couple others such as "4.4 to 3.56 testimonial" and another swap related one, all also unavailable on that site. No matter what there's definitely custom work involved. Me? I just keep off the highway with my '38 for the most part, but if I really needed that drivability I'd just look for a '38 century. Then throw some 7.00x16s on as opposed to 6.50x16 (stock). Not a huge visible difference but that would drop the rev's a little further even. The graph in my shop manual puts the century at just a hair under 2800 rpm at 60 MPH. I don't know if you've ridden in/driven any straight-8 Buicks, but 2800 in my car and Im not much over 50. Thats the speed I like, it's not just lumbering along but it sounds comfortable, not like it's begging for mercy. Unless someone comes and corrects me, the gist of it is there's no simple way. We missed it by just a couple years!! 1940-1955 rear ends swap perfectly. For what it's worth this 90k mile motor made it to rhinebeck and back two years in a row at 60 mph (3100-3200ish) the whooooole way to keep up with the rest of the chapter, all in 60-something wildcat-gs-whatever hot-stuff-mobiles!! (no offense guys just poking fun!) Pulled all the caps, crank still looked great, rods too. I think they're pretty tough. I think if I put a quieter exhaust on (surprised at that coming from a 21 year old owner?) and adjusted the valves with such meticulousness to quiet them as much as possible, it would really sound nice and not "busy" even at north of 3 grand. Just my own opinions. Best of luck!
  21. Ya know those wildcats are just...so cool...and they had the 401, later the 430...ya know...and all that other...stuff....I think it's time for me to unload my 38 and get a wildcat already.
  22. True...should have clarified my definition of it...what I meant was that it doesn't bypass the thermostat and let coolant flow to the radiator anyway. Thanks for preventing me from confusing anyone
  23. To clear up one thing, the "coolant bypass valve" as it's being discussed, does *NOT* bypass the thermostat in anyway. Note the construction of the thermostat housing and pump, etc. I had my whole system apart a couple years ago chasing my overheating problem. This bypass valve allows the coolant to circulate through the heater core. This plumbing is below the 'stat, however, so no matter what happens, nothing will flow to the radiator until the thermostat opens. What are the details on this engine, etc? Did it "just start doing this?" Ever have any success on the highway? In my case it was a clogged radiator that also leaked a little, as the shop told me. Boiling it out ended up being what took care of my problem, nothing but the radiator. A "different radiator cap" was mentioned...these are non-pressurized systems. Don't run it without a thermostat, been there done that, it instantly seemed to make it great but under the right conditions it got even WORSE. The water will flow too fast through the radiator and won't dissipate its heat. All I know about 1939s in particular is that the front grille doesn't allow too much air through it. However, if you had good running before the rebuild of this engine that would rule that out...it would have had to been flowing enough air back then. Ive heard of that talked about as words of warning before, so if it were my car my first action would be just yanking both grille sides out and trying it like that. If you can spin your water pump easily, it's not totally binding up, I cant see it being the problem...the impeller fins would have to literally be eroded away, which could happen if a neglected system just rotted away for years. My '38 sat for a quarter century and upon disassembly the impeller looked as good good as new, structurally. Not shiny and nice but all there.
  24. Good point about the lock-up function, although in this case that wouldnt be an issue...with Ford AOD trannies, lockup is actually engaged before OD even hits! 3rd gear is when lockup occurs, and it does not engage or disengage based on throttle input (TV-kickdown cable input).
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