ZondaC12

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About ZondaC12

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  • Birthday 07/30/1988

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  1. My '38 is strictly around town. I don't have anywhere I really wanna go on the highway with it. But occassionally I might be, or on a high-speed secondary road, and sometimes I'll get all "courageous" (Ha!) and take 'er up to 60, or just a little over. It really smooths out and honestly rides so nice at that speed, and engine RPM too. Through the firewall things sound much more like a high pressure rush of air, not moving parts. Buuuuut then I get to thinking of those long rods flying around at that speed, and listening close it sounds "busy" as others have said. Then I slow the hell down. I can't believe peak HP is at 3200. I don't think I've ever spun mine that fast once. So what's the redline, 4 grand? Ha! See ya later connecting rods!... I'd love to build up a hot-rod straight 8 with a stout bottom end JUST so I could rev it to 4-5 grand like an engine 30-40 years newer. That alone would help with acceleration, and top end cruising speed, provided you don't mind listening to it. It's not funky noises that bother me....it's knowing they are symptoms of something BAD that bothers me!
  2. That still makes me sick to think about. Stuff like that makes you want to go on a rampage...
  3. Mike, I have been a member here since 2005, haven't been on in probably a year or so, just found this and wanted to say CONGRATS! Nice find man. Saw the pictures and it instantly reminded me of back then, in early '05 when I was just shy of 16 years old, seeing for the first time what really lurked in the garage my dad had been keeping the car in since 1980. He passed away in late '03 and I inherited the car. Had never seen it before. What a rush, isn't it? Beneath the dust, a surface in that good of shape, as well as the interior. Yours looks entirely servicable, the dash of course stands out. I think that's my favorite part of the entire interior, almost my favorite part of the car itself! Cannot believe you still have the running board trim strips ON there and intact! Grrrrrr can you sense the jealousy? Haha Hope that you got to drive it before winter hit, and if not then you'll be like I was at 16, hardly able to contain yourself anticipating the spring. Happy motoring!!! Paul
  4. Yup, had that mentioned to me as well. Never realized what purpose that kind of thing serves....you want, ideally, heat at your heatercore before the thermostat opens....that would be an awful long time before the cabin would unfreeze you in the dead of winter! So that lets it flow through the heater hoses as well. Buuuuut once the stat opens, that doesn't matter anymore. Should it be ignored, NO, why do something halfway? However, that won't cause an overheating problem, assuming the thermostat works. And if it hasn't been mentioned yet, get a 160 degree stat, that is actually the correct stock one anyway if you look at a shop manual, but nevertheless. I'm pretty sure the NAPA by me was kind and knowledgeable enough to just take a measurement I had and find a 160 stat that fit there, seeing as there was no listing for a '38 Buick stat. At the time anyway. And PLEASE don't get one by Mr. Gasket. At least get a Stant "Super-stat" they're a few dollars more and probably more sturdy. That's about all that's out there but I've had friends tell me they bought basic Stant ones that got stuck after not too long. Oh well. At least it's real easy to get to on these engines! :D
  5. Tishabet, Get. That. Radiator. Boiled. Out. Not trying to sound snotty or mean, just don't even think twice about it. If it's original and you dont KNOW the entire history, I BET they'll find junk in there and it'll run better. I thought mine was good too with the "shade tree radiator test". Yeah, that's why its called that. Purely useless. My entire problem was the radiator. Things pointed to and away from it, but they found a small leak, and "a little crap in there". Must have been more than that, or just enough clogging several cores because after doing that it went from a behavior similar to yours to running 140-160 degrees *all the time* no matter what driving conditions, below about 85 degrees outside. Even in 90+ degree heat, it refuses to shoot up and slooooowly climbs towards 190 or so but will not boil over ever either. I learned from another vehicle as well as the '38 that the fill it and let it flow test is useless. Truth: You do NOT need all or most of the cores free for it to "flow well". Was weird to find out, but its definitely true. You probably have enough blocked so that it flows easily but flowing easily doesnt mean it's getting cooled.
  6. If the lower hose, like you said, is all good then first just check all the vital signs, make sure everything is right. Timing, fuel, etc. Make sure it's not too rich or too lean, carb is alright...a small issue but nothing wrong with putting everything equal. I assume it does start and run smooth and sound right? If yes then I'd argue the timing is probably within range, but check it anyway. Definitely do a compression test, crank it with all spark plugs out, engine already warmed up, wide open throttle while cranking with the compression gauge hooked up. Was the engine rebuilt? Entirely gone through, paint stripped off, hot tanked and cleaned out? I was utterly shocked honestly to not find tons of crap in my 248 when I had the head off this winter, but they say buildup likes to occur in the back of these engines because they are mounted such that they tilt backward just a little bit. Might have plugged passages. Do you *KNOW* the radiator is good? I learned that lesson, I thought it flowed pretty well, filling it and letting water run out the bottom, it came out fast. But clearly that's a poor test....it must have had too many cores plugged because I threw down the stinkin' $110 and had it boiled out, a couple small leaks they found patched, and painted. That was the silver bullet. Granted this is a '38 not '39 with the grille problem (which is not a myth, the airflow is restricted and doesn't help but doesn't guarantee brutal overheating like you're experiencing in any conditions. Youre in CT, we've been having some hot days recently but up until today here in NY anyway it hasnt been 95-100 degrees or more. What I mean to say....is that don't let someone tell you that "all those old straight eights always ran hot". I heard that from soooo many guys at car shows when my rig was blowing up. And not to slam them, they are all good people but these things get passed on and on and circluate like any old wives' tale. The cooling system on a late 30's Buick I-8 is AMPLE to take care of the engine's heat output. Anything below a hot humid 80 degree or higher summer day and my '38 won't go above 160. A cool 50 degree evening, it wont go past 130. All I know is what the gauge says, I aint lyin!!! And Ive done nothing like change the pulley size or go to a bigger more-bladed fan or anything. 100% stock cooling system, 91000 miles young. Just saying that it should be able to take care of itself.... I think it's the radiator. The cooling system is not very complicated, only so many things that can go wrong. Naturally make sure you installed the thermostat right, what temperature was it? If it wasnt a 160 degree, get a 160 degree one. Test it in a pot of boiling water on the stove, make sure it works as it should. I've had a bad brand new thermostat, that wasn't fun to find out!
  7. Wouldn't know about 38 vs 39. Though there is a guy around here with an amazingly clean unrestored '39 roadmaster that usually brought it out to the multiple cruise ins around here each week last summer, but lately has had his same condition '41 caddy out. Im sure the 39 will be out soon, I'll have him open his trunk, Im sure he'll be glad to!
  8. http://forums.aaca.org/f165/looking-pic-original-truck-liner-38-a-279357.html#post746493
  9. Well if it's literally overpowering and you can't hear yourself think then yes I'd say something is wrong haha.
  10. Whats the deal with the "noisy first gear?" Is it chewed up? Or just making a howling/whining noise? If its the latter, it's supposed to do that. 2nd gear is a little quieter. Its all because of the torque tube. The howl resonates in there. I love it.
  11. Yeah you should ask Mercedes-Benz why the SL looked the same for 16 years!! LOL
  12. Spring is here and the car is finally on the road of course.... I am overjoyed to report that it runs and sounds like a brand new engine. I'm amazed. No noises under any conditions at all, not to mention some increased smoothness I think from lapping the valves and cleaning everything while it was apart. These things really have some muscle when you can actually USE it!!! Today is in the mid-60s, and the thermometer won't even break 140 degrees. Equally shocking. There will be three things still around at the end of the universe. Cockroaches, 1980's ford 300 CI straight 6's.....and this car.
  13. Thankfully the original craze "inspired" by the movie has subsided I would say. At least where I live, I wouldn't say EVERY clapped-out rotted stock civic has a hideous park bench attached to the trunk, decals for thousands of parts not actually on the car, and the obligatory section of water main blasting out anything BUT the sound of raw power hanging beneath the back bumper. Funny you mention that about me and that little piece of terminology. Maybe I'm am ambassador between this crowd and "those damn kids!!!!!!!" I have a flowmaster that I had spare from a setup my cougar had, and that's what I have on the Buick, and it's dumped off before the axle (just like the cougar's dual setup is....hmmmm kind of a pattern here...??? :cool:) but I like the sound that has. Of course at 50 mph there is a large drone, they dont call em Dronemasters for nuttin! At 60 it suddenly goes away and is a lot more civil. The absolutely massive stock muffler these had I'm sure is whisper quiet.
  14. Figure 1 details what modifications a Licensed Toyota Service Tech shall perform on any Toyota model brought in for recall work regarding the recent uncontrollable acceleration issue. Refer the tech to the procedure outlined in Appendix A in the unlikely event that the problem persists after repair is made.