claydiamond

Here is a 1923? DB with what appears to be a Cantrell Wood Body. I would like to sell. Runs, new battery,tires/tubes. All metal rust free and wood in great shape.

I have a great looking Harrison Chevy Super Deluxe Heater for sale. It has a chrome finish and fan blades turn freely. You will not find a better looking one that this one. For photos email me at skip@atlantic.net

I have a 1923 Dodge Brothers Depot Hack with a J.T. Cantrell Body. Car is in good shape and runs. Seems to be all original, seats have been redone. Car need to find a home with someone that knows how to appreciate it. I am asking $12,500., I have a Florida tittle and I am in North Florida and can assist with delivery in South East or East Coast. Give me a call at 386-497-2519.

I need the bowtie emblem for a 1928 chevy. I have the back plate just need the bowtie emblem. skip@atlantic.net

Headlight Bar off a 1928 Chevy. Sandblasted and primed ready for paint. $50.00 plus shipping from Florida. skip@atlantic.net

I have a headlight bar that came off a 1928 chevy. The bar has been blasted and primed and ready to paint. If anyone has a need please let me know at skip@atlantic.net. I need around $50.00 plus shipping.

FS 1928-29 Honeycomb radiator for a '28-'29 Chevy. Excellent condition for original restoration. skip@atlantic.net

I have a 1928-29 Honeycomb Radiator in great shape for sale. contact me at skip@atlantic.net

anyone know where I might find replacement wheel bearings and races for a 1922 DB?

I am looking for some parts for my front end. I need Tie Rod Bolts and Steering Knuckle Bolt, for a 1922 DB. I also need the bushings. Thanks for any help Skip

Jan, I sent you an email about problem. Thanks for your response Claydiamond

My fan is slipping and has come forward and hit the back of radiator. No real damage to radiator but I need to repair fan. Can it be fasten to the shaft with a set screw or how do I get it to stay in place? My manual has very little about fan and no drawings showing how to replace fan or bushings. Thanks Claydiamond

I live in Gainesville and would be interested in your car diamond@diamondsportspark.com

Thanks to everyone that helped get my screeside up and running. The problem was solved when I installed the vacuum tank. I was up and running today and will try to post some photo's in the near future. This car is actually a "depot hack" with the body made by "J.D. Cantrell" Again thanks to Jan Arnett, Dan McInnis, Nearchocolatetown and many others. The Dodge Brothers Club is great.

Jan, I am not running yet as the vac tank from Ken was not in any shape to be repaired. I have contacted Gene Sanson in NJ and he is sending me a "good" used one. I am sure that when I get the tank installed I will be up and running. I want to say thanks to all the replies I have gotten. I must say this is one of the best groups I have ever been envolved with. Yes I am haveing the time of my life. Skip

Scott, I may have a top you can use for your vacuum tank if that is all you need. I bought a used vac tank and it was to rusty for repair. I do not know if they are all the same or not. I do not have any of the fittings that will go onto top however as I plan on useing them on the tank I ordered from Gene Sanson in NJ. He has old tanks, I have one coming just dont know what shape it will be in. Get back to me if you are interested. Skip

I am about to put a vacuum tank on mine and I hope it does the trick. Everything else seems to be working ok. Let me know if you find your problem

Dan, I will give you a call.

Thanks for the info. I now have a Vac tank and will start rebuilding it. I am pretty sure that will solve most of my problems. I am going to thourghly clean the carb. Did you use a newer condenser? I have someone from just north of me contact me, he has a '25 Touring. We will get together soon. I also just received my 2003 roster. Thanks again

sorry, the # is on a plate on the toe kick above the starter button. I have worked on the timing and think I have it about right. It still looks like I will have to work on the carb as it seems a little gummed up. I also have one primer cup that need to be replaced. Can you send me in the right direction for one? Also I plan on using a simple choke cable until I can find a spark advance cable.

I checked the Carb # 219992, Head # A-186-5, engine # 247183, body # 828340. Could this have been sold to a coach builder (J.T.Cantrell & Co.) and they put the body on later with a plate # of 828340? This could be why the engine is so much older # than body. Rember this body is a wood bodied station wagon called a "Depot Hack". All wood with no windows. Fan is mounted to head not block.

Your right the # of the plate on the toe kick says 828340 while the engine says 247183. I have yet to find the # on the frame. I will look for carb #. I do have primer cups and intake looks to be bronze with a curve bolted to head with two nuts on studs.Breather cap is a flip style no wing nut. Generator is a North East 12 volt with the numbers 3514G1 and the numbers 185765 next to the G. It is not like the one in the manual. Shunt field fuse is on the end of generator close to carb not fan end. I can move the Dist. counter clockwise and see that there is mounting point behind Dist. I would like to get the advance rod if you know of anywhere I might find one. Do you know why the number A-186 on the head is different from the #247183 on the block? Maybe this entire engine and body have been pieced together from different cars?

Looking for DB owners in N. Florida. I am in Gainesville and have a 1923 Screenside and would like to meet other owners in Fl.

yes the delco has screw in plug wires. No numbers on dist. The # on top of head is A-186 with a 5 under numbers. Above Carb the # 247183, generator is a northeast #3514G1 12 volt. I can see where the spark advance should attatch but no wire or tube to put it in going to hand lever. I do have the hand lever just not sure if it is the right one or not. Someone tried to wire the Dist. in place with a piece of wire, probably got it in a good position and just left it there.

I do not have a spark advanceing connection from the steering. Looks like someone removed it from the car. All that is left is the lever not tube or connection to distributor. By the way I read where the car has 45 degrees of advance with 25 degreegs being automatic. Could this be why it will start and let me advance the throttle (without advanceing the spark) and then start missing, backfireing and stall? I also find that the distributor is from delco and not north east. Whole set up is not like in the mechanics manual. I was going to try to check out the weights which control the automatic advance since I read that they may lose their tension. I do not think this distributor has any weights. I am goine to check the timing saturday.