gordon140

I have a 1989 which experienced the same intermittent problem with the dash, although last week it went completely dark. I just pulled the IPC and cleaned the contacts and sprayed contact cleaner. Dash lights up fine now. I suggest that the work will be quicker if you use a longer flexible shaft nut driver extension, and tilt the steering wheel to get at those four black hex head screws. There are 2 screws on each side of the IPC. There are other black screws nearby which hold the light switch and wiper switches in place. If you study the screws, you will know which ones to remove. Also,I had to move towards me the rubber decorative donut, which was impeding my being able to pull out the IPC.

For my 1989 Reatta, I have removed the Harmonic Balancer Bolt, but the Balancer will not pull off. I have been working from above the engine and I did not remove the passenger side tire or inner fender splash shield, but don't know why this would matter. I have tried hitting the metal circumference with a hammer, with no effect. From above, I can't seem to find a safe place to place screw drivers from behind the balancer to pry. Has anyone else had this problem and found a solution?

That info helped. I found the second 10mm hex head screw that I believe you referred to (also attaches a wiring harness). Thank you for responding.

My 1989 Reatta has a plastic cover over the flywheel. I have removed a 10mm hex head screw and don't see any other fasteners, yet the cover doesn't easily just pull off. It is raining here now so I thought I would ask the experts for assistance in how to remove and reinstall this cover.

I am wondering if my exhaust system is the original stainless steel setup. Both my muffler and exhaust pipes are magnetic, but I understand that some forms of stainless steel are magnetic and some are not. Can anyone provide information so that I can make a determination.

If you use the MCM capacitors, the physical size is correct so no bending of the capacitor leads will be required. See: http://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keyword=31-8565&btnSubmit.x=12&btnSubmit.y=7

Cracking sounds from the radio are frequently the result of 6 bad capacitors, which are green colored. Radio capacitor replacement instructions can be found via: http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...true#Post378297

Instructions to replace radio capacitors are here: http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...true#Post378297

About 15 months ago I thought I was going to buy an Allante which had 69,000 miles and the dealer reported that it was in perfect condition, so I drove 100 miles to get it. You should keep in mind that the body parts and interior were made in Italy. The condition of the Allante interior was far worse than that of my Reatta, which has 100,000 more miles. Either the odometer was a lie, or things just didn't hold up. Because of some comments at the Allante club website, I asked to see the functioning of the manual convertible top. Three guys, with the instruction book worked for 20 minutes to get the top down. It only took them 10 minutes to get it up, but it wouldn't latch. So, I bought my Reatta instead.

Wellsguy77 does not have any of the original remotes for his 1989 Reatta. All of the instructions that I have read involve programming a second remote. If he has a proper Reatta remote, how does he program it? Also, I have been unsucessful in getting more that 2 remotes to work on my car. Is there a way?

This is my attempt to repay some of the great advice that I have received from members of this forum. Basically, the instructions were posted by other Reatta forum members, and I have provided photos. Click Here for Radio Capacitor Replacement Instructions (261kB) The instruction were done as a Word doc. If you need software to view it, then you can get a free Word Viewer at: <A HREF="http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?familyid=95E24C87-8732-48D5-8689-AB826E7B8FDF&displaylang=en"> Click Her for Word Viewer (11.7mb)</A> or free complete application software at: Click Here for Open Office (64.2mb zip file)

The Buick logo remote which came with my used 1989 Reatta has FCC code: AB00502T. It works well, so I am confident that this is another FCC code that is OK.

I wonder if you have the correct belt. The EVG Part No. in R. Lane Matte's Repair Manual is 1407-517. At the previous recommendation of other posters, I got my belt at www.mcminone.com and their part number is 42-1990. Has worked well for about 1 year now. The belt is only 51 cents each, but their minimum shipping charge is $7.29 The only other things that I can think of is perhaps the belt slipped off the pulleys or it was not threaded correctly.

Here is a photo showing the location of the slots that the back plate must fit into.

At first I had the same problem with the back plate. However, if you look very carefully you should see two slots for the bottom of the back plate to slip into. It is when the back plate sits on top of these slots that we have problems.

I guess that there was good reason why no one had any suggestions. I went to the Reatta today and found that after the battery was fully recharged that the car functions fine (started instantly after sitting for many months). I guess that when someone reverses polarity during an attempted jump start, that nothing blows.

My 1989 Reatta has been in storage for the past 5 months. Battery discharged, but some lights would go on. My friend tried to do a jump and reversed the battery cables and tells me that he thinks he blew a fuse or a relay because now the car is now completely dead. I will journey to his home later this week to try and get the car. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I might have to do to rectify the situation?

If you are going to work on the passenger side motor, I suggest that you review my post of 11/5/05 "My Headlight repair experience" Have fun!

These two are not yours, but each is red and has a "spoiler" on the trunk. Interiors are not grey and hoods open in standard factory method. I think that spoilers are somewhat unusual. Could that "someone" have mistaken one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/REATTA-COUPE_W0QQitemZ4621360074QQcategoryZ6140QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem and http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-BUIC...1QQcmdZViewItem

If we had Pontiacs, we could get the reproduction window stickers from: http://www.phs-online.com/window%20sticker%20order.htm

Many new engine and brake parts are still available. You might look at: http://www.autopartsgiant.com/CAT_FRAMEX.cfm http://www.carpartsteam.com/Reatta_BU_011.html http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ http://www.rockauto.com/

Thank you for the info. I just placed my order.

In the USERNAME SEARCH enter the name ROBBO. The replies to his --Replace Brake .....-- question dated 9/14/05 will answer your questions. Good luck.

1. For the 1988 and 1989 Reatta tape deck repair instructions, go to www.reatta.net then FAQ's - then tape deck - at the end there is a link to the excellent and detailed instructions. 2. I agree that trying to replace the door belt is probably a waste of time. I used the 2.4 on two tape decks and the cassette door would not pop open. I then tried 2.9 with no change. I think this is becasue the old door springs are no longer vibrant. Without the belt, the door pops open nicely, but without any dampening effect. 3. The repair author had difficulty with the reinstallation of the cassete back plate, so he left it out - which is fine. However, if you look carefully, there are two slots that the bottom of the plate fit into. 4. Some other suggestions are: Do the job in one sitting. Put parts in a separate container for each step and label the container with the step number. Study the instructions first and make sure you have all the required tools in advance. I suspect at least 90 minutes needed for the first time.

I recently had to replace the bushings in my 1989 passenger side headlight motor and thought that I would share my experience. 1. It should be noted that the headlight was popping up and down with no hesitation, then suddenly it completely stopped working. (I believe that if I didn't have a flexible shaft drive handle (for hex nuts, torx, philips head screws, etc), it would have taken much longer and been more difficult). 1. I followed the wonderful Headlight Repair info at www.reatta.net which was provided by Barney Eaton and dated 4 April 1999. 2. It took about one hour to get to the point of trying to remove the large white plastic gear from the motor. It took awhile to find other postings which would tell me how to get it out. At other times, Barney Eaton also posted the following info: (a) "When you say right side, that would be the passenger side. That side gives lots of people problems. The white gear has a lip on the back side that catches on the motor worm. I usually clamp the assembly in my vise. grab the shaft with vise grips and pull.....at the same time turn the knob with your hand...this helps the worm go over the lip and the white gear will pull out." This worked well for me. ( "You will have the same problem when putting it back, plus trying to get the shaft into the bearing. It can be done, but is easier if you loosen the two screws on the motor housing....BUT about 90% of the lower bolt heads break off when they are loosened. When I rebuild headlight motors, I spend more time drilling out broken screws than on the rest of the job. Have fun. " 3. On 9/11/03 daddy3jr8 provided the folowing useful suggestion, which helped for my reinstallation of the white plastic gear (but should also work well related to the removal- but I had first used the Barney Easton vise): "Take a drill bit that fits between gear teeth and drill between 3 teeth not at worm gear.Mark them and turn that spot to worm gear position. Gear slides off and on easily. drill at slow speed so you don't damage the teeth." 4. Via Ebay, I purchased from bluesteel124 two sets of bushings, which he advertises: "These bushings are the exact size of the original busings". I am quite certain that the bushings I received from bluesteel124 are NOT the same size as the originals, but my headlight seems to work properly with them installed. (inorder to check the driver side headlight, I took the motor apart. I am pretty sure that it was a completely new motor with original bushings.) The original bushings are 11 mm long and have a 13 mm diameter. The ones I received from bluesteel123 are 12 mm long and have a 11 mm diameter. 5. Another source of bushings that has been mentioned in postings is at: http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=37701&dept_id=1158 I did not buy these bushings, but I note that they are hollow in the center, while I believe that the originals were solid.