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gmtuners.com

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  1. Philip: Did you get two new "o-rings" for those two coolant ports with the last gasket kit? If not, make sure you get them with the next kit. If the kit does not come with them, get them seperately (GM sells them). I have had instances where the coolant was able to "seep" thru the paper gasket over time. Also, in the pictures you provided I see what appears to be some contaminiation of the sealing surfaces around the coolant ports on both the lower intake and SC. If you can't clean these up, it would be acceptible to smear a very light coating of ultra-black RTV on these surfaces before a
  2. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The gasket between the throttle body and S/C seems to be fine. I used a new one (and I can say that I'm pretty darn sure it was the right one). </div></div> This does NOT look good to me: As the fellow earlier said, if coolant made it past the gasket it would immediately get sucked right into the engine. I would obtain the correct fitting gasket before proceeding. -ryan
  3. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thank you. I'm gonna go nap, and then I've got to help my brother move. Will look into the service manual. And hey, Ryan's chips have arrived! Yay </div></div> Check and make sure all vacuum lines got plugged back in, including the one going to the brake booster. A massive vacuum leak will prevent the engine from starting, especially on a MAF system. If you are confident all of your vacuum lines are connected properly, check for spark. Check for injector pulse. D
  4. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hmmmm...got me thinking. Accel makes high performance coils for the Magnavox unit (what I've been using but I swtched back to a Delco to avoid most ignition problems. Hard to troubleshoot with multiple problems) and also the 3 for the Delco Here's a link to the Delco coils from Jeg's </div></div> Quite honestly I don't see the need for aftermarket coils for these engines. The coil-over-plug setup sounds nice, but I don't think it is necessary. Allow me to explain.
  5. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Ryan: no hurry or pressure, but will I have the chips by this weekend? </div></div> I should get them shipped off to you thursday. -ryan
  6. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">While you have it off, you could paint it (and the valve covers) RED!!!! They should be dry by tomorrow, and you're not busy getting ED08 readings now. Once you have it together, y'know it'll never get COLORIZED! </div></div> This is the exact opposite way I do conversions. I try to make them as OE looking as possible. The only things that get attentio
  7. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The aluminum is in excellent shape. Should I use nothing at all on the gasket? </div></div> Honestly you shouldn't need anything on the gasket. If you didn't use any RTV sealer before and it leaked, I would say try using some. But if you did try using RTV before and it leaked, it is very possible the thickness of the RTV around those coolant ports probably caused the leak. -ryan
  8. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> So yeah, I got it off this afternoon. The coolant leak was between the intake manifold and the supercharger, below the throttle body. It was pretty substantial...I'd consider it a trickle. I didn't see anything wrong. The two yellow O rings (these and the gasket I bought new when I assembled) were seated where they should be. The leak was enough to make a pool of coolant in the intake manifold. I can't either way if this leak was going on during my testing. I don't know too wel
  9. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some time ago I put together a CD with an enormous amount of data on 5B (code in the PROM for a 3800) engines and the Motorolla chipset including disassemblies of the ECM and BCM and a number of the different PROMs used on Reattas plus a few L-67s. Sent it to a few people but nothing ever came of it. However I have never put it all together so if anyone has the time and inclination to put it together, drop me a line and I'll burn a copy. Also be glad to advise on specifics but h
  10. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Alas, I'm going to have to tear off the top of the motor to get the supercharger off and replace the seals and gaskets. I'm pretty sure it only started today or at least since I last ran it, because I've spent a while under the hood of it with it running and never noticed this leak. My dad, nor my local mechanic hasn't either. It's right under the throttle body. Never knew the dollar sign could stand for anything other than money . But I thank Ryan, Padgett, Greg, and everyone
  11. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> LV8 really isn't a table, it's a calculation based on MAF and RPM. Adjusting the MAF tables adjusts LV8.</div></div> I was under the impression that there is "something" in the programming that tells the ECM how to assign LV8 readings. If it isn't a table, is there a constant? (my information on $5B1 and $5B2's is quite limited, so any info you can provide would be quite helpful). <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div>
  12. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sorry I was away from a computer for a day. Uh, yeah. So Ryan, do you wish that I send my memcal back to you? I'm pretty tired at the moment, so I'm not fully reading on this MAF stuff. Was able to get the injector numbers. I found 927, 467, and 0-280-150-934. It had a symbol on it too. Not sure if it was Bosch </div></div> Actually what I think I am going to do is lend you an adapter that will plug in between your mem-cal and the ECM. This adapter has a socket on i
  13. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I would guess GM spaced the rings on the balancer differently to prevent them being switched, but the reason baffles me? The internal construction of the engine indicates the only difference is that some of the s/c engines used a floating piston pin. Maybe something else? </div></div> Very possible. I looked up some GM part numbers and have the following conclusions... 88 LN3 crank is different than 91-95 L27 and L67 cranks; I already knew this because all LN3's I
  14. Sorry its taking me so long to post replies to this thread, guys. I am really busy in the shop right now so I am getting to this thread as often as I can... As far as the timing goes, I have set up Philip's main timing table as close to the stock 95 3800 SC timing table as I felt was "safe". Given this, it is very possible to see only 6 deg of timing at lower RPMs... The stock 94-95 3800 SC timing table: Philip's timing table on the chip I made for him: This is my first attempt at using an LN3 ECM to control a supercharged engine, so please bear with me. As far as the reluctor wheels ar
  15. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Haha! I got the cat sawzall-ed off and she revs up fine! We're calling about having a new cat installed </div></div> Outstanding. Check with Jegs or Summit as you can get hi-flow cats for about $50 or so.
  16. Philip: about this glowing exhaust issue... Is this the first time this has occurred? If so, something has changed since you swapped out plugs and wires (assuming that is the last thing you changed). Doublecheck your firing order. I have only experienced glowing manifolds a couple of times over the years and the cause was incorrect ignition and/or cam timing or incorrect firing order (ign wire hookup). I haven't personally experienced a lean condition causing this to happen, at least not at very light loads. Furthermore, if the O2 voltage is still moving around and is not stuck rich or le
  17. First of all, Philip can no longer run a stock Reatta or any other stock LN3 mem-cal (chip) in his car because he is using the larger L67 injectors. If he tries using a LN3 chip, he will flood out his engine. It sounds like your fuel pressure readings have improved with the new pump, however, I am troubled by the fact the fuel pressure isn't changing when you unplug the fuel pressure regulator. With the engine running at idle, with the vacuum line plugged in, your fuel pressure should be 35-38psi; as you indicated you had. However, that pressure should have jumped to approx 42-45psi when yo
  18. If it is ok with Philip, I think too it would be a good idea to continue the discussion here so the bulk of the Reatta community can use it as a reference... Yes, I knew what injectors philip was using when I did the chip but the reason why I asked again was because he was talking about swapping parts back on from the LN3. I just wanted to make sure. I would like to take a moment and explain what I have done with Philip's programming. I have tried a unique idea in which I have attempted to marry as much of the L67 programming as I could with the LN3 computer system. I am confident we can ge
  19. Wow, there are so many good questions in this thread. Lets see if I can help out... For the boost gauge hookup, you don't need to tap and drill anything on the lower intake manifold, at least not with this intake. That black vacuum block that sticks out of the top-front of the SC does "see" boost. The fuel pressure regulator and boost bypass solenoid should already be connected to this block. You can connect a boost gauge here. As far as the MAF's are concerned, the LN3 and L67 units are definitely calibrated differently. I have reprogrammed Philip's chip to work with the L67 MAF sensor.
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