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  1. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ryan: I'm not sure if you call it the "boost controller" but it's something like that. It's stock and all. It's the black metal cylinder thing with a couple vacuum lines. When revved, a little rod coming out of it is moved upward which controls the bypass gate in the S/C. </div></div> Oh ok, you are talking about the supercharger bypass actuator. What happened to yours? Did it break? The actuator does not normally control boost level. It's function is to open the
  2. I agree with everything 2seater said. I must get about 20 emails a week specifically asking about putting a turbo or supercharger on a naturally asperated engine. Because I run a business, I can't simply go around telling people they can get away with doing that without concequences. Therefore, my email responses to such questions usually turn out to be a couple of pages long explaining that it can be done, but there are drawbacks to durability and reliability. Like 2seater said, he doesn't beat on his car much and someone like him would probably never suffer an engine failure due to the b
  3. I agree with Greg's opinion here. You can't always trust what you are told on a forum on the web. By no means is this a bash against any specific person nor the Bonneville forum, but most of these people don't have the proper training and education to back up their "advice". With that being said; here is the deal with the oil cooler. Yes, the older stock SC engines came with them. But have that guy explain to you why the newer Series II engines didn't have them and they put out more power??? I will tell you why. Oil technology has come a long way since 1992-95. Yes, conventional dino mo
  4. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It seems that my boost controller is faulty. I'm asking the Bonneville guys about it, but when disconnected, I get full boost <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />. With it connected normally, there's not really anything. I'm gonna check it out and see if it can be cleaned or something, but its old anyway and replacement would probably be best. </div></div> Sounds like your boost controller is the device giving you fits. I d
  5. He Phil, just wondering how the car is running and if you did that cold air induction upgrade yet?? -ryan
  6. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thank you Ryan. I meant to move the on-screen climate/comfort outdoor temperature sensor, cuz it reads high from the engine's heat </div></div> Oh, my bad. I thought you were talking about the IAT sensor.
  7. I wouldn't mess with a external trans filter. It isn't going to be of much benefit for your application. Also, you will want to run BOTH the trans cooler in the radiator AND the external cooler. Yes, running only the external cooler would make fluid flow more but the external cooler may under or over cool the transmission. Also, you want to have the hot fluid coming from the trans to pass thru the radiator FIRST because you have to remember there is hot coolant in the radiator that can actually heat up the trans fluid if you had it hooked up the other way around. I would leave the IAT senso
  8. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Did the scanner record the 0-60 times or approx. 1/4 miles? I have had to delay starting a run to be sure the scanner connected to the ECM before matting the pedal. Only records 15 frames so generally only got about 13 frames @ one per second to get a good run recorded. Indications are between 5 and 6 seconds 0-60 and 90-95 mph after about thirteen seconds with my turbo installation. </div></div> I was using an OTC Monitor 4000 Enhanced but I don't know the specific
  9. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think cool air is probably more important at the moment. Even just moving the filter from the present location to closer to the normal inlet area from the front below the relay box would help. Or possibly a surround for the filter in the present location with a hose feeding it from the stock forward area. In a pinch you can use the stock inlet hose, connected normally as marked, and a short piece of 3" pvc pipe to connect the filter to the hose. They will stretch to fit over t
  10. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Will commandeer some 3'' pipe from the van and see what I can do. On my list of things to do soon. About the tranny cooler...I haven't really been under there to investigate the lines, but how would I go about connecting one? Would it be before the cooler in the radiator or after? Should an auxiliary filter be used too? I'll drop the pan/filter and do a refill when I do it too. How big of one? Seems they're rated in max-towing weights How about this bad boy? Sorry, haven't e...
  11. For some reason I am not getting notified of updates to this thread... Anyway, it was great to meet Philip and finally see his project. I must say he hasn't done to bad with it -- looks a lot better than the first stuff I messed with years ago. Like Philip said, we found a bad plug wire which was causing most of the problems. We also discovered that the engine wanted more WOT timing than what I had originally given it. We also bumped up the idle TPS setting to I think about 0.42 volts because the 0.3x it was set at caused a high idle after I reset the computer. I also gave him a little mor
  12. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Ryan. I read at the Bonneville club of the vacuum controller being disconnected and pulling like 17 psi . Nothing I'd ever do though. </div></div> I don't know what those guys over on the bonneville forums are doing or using but the bypass actuator DOES NOT regulate boost on these engines. This type of supercharger is a fixed displacement or linear output supercharger which means it will only put out a fixed amount of airflow/boost per RPM. The only way you
  13. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ah, with Greg's car? I read of that being mentioned. If I'm right, the current boost control uses just vacuum. How does the solenoid thing work in? </div></div> You don't really need the boost control solenoid on these engines. All it does is disable boost in reverse and when you are nearing the preset top speed limiter as well as on heavy decel. Basically it serves no practical function for us HP guys. Now the vacuum operated bypass actuator is something you do n
  14. Yes, get some knock counts and spark retard degrees if available. Don't forget some WOT O2 readings as well. As far as the idle is concerned, I am sitting here looking at the programming software I am using and I don't see anything defined that governs IAC position. What are the lowest IAC position counts you are seeing on the data stream? What is the desired idle? -ryan
  15. Yes, I would like to know some INT and BLM counts, as well as O2 voltage at WOT (if you are opening the throttle that far). As far as the TCC is concerned, I didn't touch it yet so if changes need to be made there we can do that on the next chip. -ryan
  16. Glad to hear you got it running. As far as the high idle is concerned, there is a "learning" proceedure the ECM goes thru at about 40mph or so where it bottoms out the IAC which resets the counts in the ECM. However, even if this wasn't performed you still shouldn't have an issue with this high of an idle. 2000 still sounds way too high. What are the IAC counts doing? Desired idle? ECM going into closed loop ok? O2 sensor voltage moving around like it should? TPS voltage at idle?
  17. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ryan: does that mean I could try running the engine with the LN3 balancer and sensor?</div></div> YES. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Kind of did a compression test when I applied pressured to each cylinder. At least was able to know that pistons didn't have holes blown in them and that valves were sealing.</div></div> That was a leakdown test. A compression test will
  18. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In a word, "No" The Blower if not turning will completely block intake airflow. </div></div> Not true. I have started many 3800 Series II SC engines that had the SC belt removed. The SC will turn by itself (because of airflow) and the engine will start and run normally (with less power of course) without the SC belt present. I would recommend a very small shot of starting fluid to see if it will run off of that. BUT you need to be VERY CAREFUL with this stuff. A
  19. What I would do is fill this engine up with some conventional oil to start out and make sure everything is working great / no leaks. After you are satisfied nothing is wrong, I would change the oil and filter again. No reason to waste expensive Mobil 1 to find out you still have a problem. Besides, I always like to "flush" the engine after it has been open (intake manifold removed). -ryan
  20. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Didn't think about it much, but what's the best way to clean out the bolt holes? </div></div> Thread chaser. Kinda like a thread tap but a little different. Make sure you get out a vacuum cleaner and prevent any debris from falling in the engine while you are doing this.
  21. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ah yes. Have taken that precaution. Will let it sit at least overnight, just to be sure. Would not be nice for it to seal up my oil passages. The page that Ryan emailed me for the manifold says to use thread lock on the intake manifold bolts...that necessary? When putting the manifold together, I propose to start all the bolts and turn them with a socket and extension (no driver) until they stop, and then torque them to the 88 in/lbs in sequence according to the FSM. That sound
  22. Philip, that is good news if you didn't get any bubbles up thru the cooling system during the leakdown tests. The little amount of air you heard escaping was probably that which was working its way past the piston ring end gaps. Of course there is still a very small possibility that you might have a cracked cylinder. It wasn't clear exactly how you did your tests but if you did them with the piston at bottom dead center, that should check the whole cylinder bore for leaks. At this point, like another person said earlier, it is far more likely you have a gasket or intake manifold failure that
  23. Philip, don't let this temporary setback get you down. Chalk it up to a learning experience instead. If you go ahead with a leakdown test, make sure your radiator cap is on and you have some coolant or water in the overflow tank. If you have a blown head gasket, air bubbles will come up in the overflow.
  24. Lets take a step back here. I think there is a possibility you might have popped a head gasket and the pressure from the cylinders is getting into the cooling system and blowing out your little o-ring seals under the SC. The best way to check for a blown head gasket is to do a cylinder leakdown, or put compressed air into the cylinder. (auto parts and tool stores sell a hose that screws into the spark plug hole and allows you to hook up your air compressor hose to it). You will need to turn the engine over so each cylinder you test is a Bottom Dead Center after the power stroke. A blown hea
  25. I do know for a fact that ALL 3800 Series 2 engines had a "windage tray" as part of the oil pan gasket. IIRC, the Series 1 engines had it built into the pan itself.
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