Hemi Joel

For heavy caked on old grease, I use my steamer. It puts out a high volume of steam at low pressure, probably less than 100 psi at up to 375 degrees. It has the ability to meter a chemical degreaser to the water before it goes into the pump and the boiler. I think it is the fastest, easiest, most thorough method I have tried. Using common sense, I avoid damage. I mask off areas that I don't want any splashing on.

I bought their kit about 40 years ago. I don't remember having any issues with it. I only used it for one project. I have a good impression of the company, but I don't remember anything specific.

I'm pretty sure he has, if I remember right. I'd have to verify.

I can't cite the source, but I do remember reading that James Watts horse, which is what the original measurements and current standards are based upon, was on the weak side. Other horses have tested much higher.

I was at the shop of a restorer who would definitely be capable of doing that car to a very high standard about 2 years ago. He mentioned being able to do a duesenberg for 500ish. He did mention that some of the other shops were double his price.

Well bought, in my opinion. The new owner has the opportunity to restore it to his own taste. After restoration, well under 3.5 all in for a freshly done, all numbers matching, DTMCC with an honest and interesting provenance is a very good deal.

I used to be a moderator on an automotive forum. One thing that it did not take me long to learn is that I was better off not providing an explanation when I had to delete something. For one thing devoting 20 minutes to type an explanation for the benefit of the one who violated the forums policy in the first place was a big waste of time. And then it always opened up an argument on their part where they would want to go back and forth about the merits. My job was to make sure that the form rules were complied with and I did that. As an unpaid volunteer, I just could not devote several hours per week or even per day explaining things to people who will never get it anyway.

What year is the Eldorado?

Interesting picture. Those skirted fenders really hurt the looks of the car in my opinion. I'm going to take a guess that it will hammer at 3.5 million.

They made this model AC chain drive Mack from 1916 all the way up to 1938 with no significant changes in appearance. So it may not be as old as it looks. I used to have a '34, and it looked the same as one from WW1. That crane matches the era of the truck, IMHO.

My 66 Dodge Town wagon had a slant 6 with an oil bath air cleaner.

No, the white car with the white undercarriage is J108, sold new to Mrs. Harry Robinson (J.W. Robinson's department store) of Los Angeles. It is a very early, one off car with front hinged doors, more rake to the windshield, a nearly vertical rear curtain, and a peaked deck lid. You can see the car in action in the movie "The Gay Divorcee". https://youtu.be/PTAG2e7d6pM?feature=shared&t=1344

You can use Rockauto.com to look up what you suspect it might be. They have pictures of a lot of the boosters.

Besides the inconsistent and poor quality of parts and removal of zinc from oil, lifter bores are more worn that they used to be from mileage. Lifter to bore clearance with a flat tappet cam is critical, and should be .0012" - .0018". If it is loose, or out of round, the lifters are less likely to properly rotate in the bore. This clearance needs to be checked, and rotation needs to be verified. If a flat tappet lifter doesn't rotate, it will fail promptly. If things aren't right, reamed/honed bores with oversize lifters (if available) or bushed lifter bores, or switching to roller lifters is the solution.

Well that got kind of expensive. At least the process works and you're getting a title, that's the important thing. Thanks for the update.