jazzer3

Check the length of the wheel-cylinder push rods, the new rods may be a different length than the old push rods. If that isn't the case you may have to reposition the anchor-pins for the brake shoes this is covered in the service manual or the "Motors manual" describes how to do a major brake adjustment without the proper tools. On our 50 New Yorker I belt sanded the replacement brake shoes because I could not get the drums on, but I never checked the push-rod lengths. This was surely not the best thing to do as for accuracy and dust but I was careful and they work well. Good luck, Jay

The Commander is off the jackstands temporarily and went for a few rides around our property totaling about three miles. Everything in the driveline seems to be working OK, now I need to make a tailpipe and do some rust repair, then it gets new tires and the rear window installed. Jay

Thank you Dan, our Airflow was redone quite a while ago and there may be parts from a few different cars that were involved in it's redoing. The wheels on it now appear to have been white and without having wide-whitewall tires on the car I thought it would look better with the contrasting white wheels. Now there are more parts from more cars involved, the engine and transmission were out of the car and in pieces when we got it. In putting the engine together I have a 35 head, 37 intake manifold, 39 exhaust manifold, 50 distributor, the tappets and air filter mount came from Australia and the rings came out of a rebuilt 39 engine that was bought for parts. Jay

Our smallest and one of the biggest were out for the tourists this past weekend.

Thank you Phil

A fellow heard I had Studebakers and dropped this off at my shop. I was surprised it is fiberglass. I was reading up on the hawks but don't know which one had the 160 MPH speedo and vacuum gauge Thanks for any information, Jay

Hello Everyone, The Airflow was the first one out this year. I'm not planning on driving it too much this year I want to finish up some details and get it ready for next year. The wheels appear to have been white at one time, (could the wheels have been white from the factory) and the black paint that is on them now comes off rather easily, I would like to clean one of the wheels as gently as possible hoping there might be some original pin stripping. Jay

The front fenders of the Commander have the typical rust most cars of 20th century Pennsylvania had to expect. I don't want to get into extensive bodywork and would like to preserve the car as it is as much as possible. This rust is never going to get worse and I would like to stabilize the area without welding in patches and matching paint. I would like to put some kind of backing up-underneath the fender then applying some kind of clear acrylic. Opinions and or suggestions appreciated. This is inside the right rear dogleg, the plan here is POR 15 and fiberglass cloth built up in layers. I have done this in spare-tire wells and it worked fine. I do plan on welding here to rebuild this body mount. Note remainder of curb-feeler there is a complete on on the rear, are they factory. The hood is lookin scary! Cleaned these brake parts this AM but it is so damp and cold compared to yesterday my hands were killing me, arthritis ya know. Going to Lancaster for a few days to watch the Grandsons will be anticipating reading here on Friday night just what to do with those front fenders. Thanks, Jay

Hello I am presently working on a 57 Studebaker Commander The front fenders of the Commander have the typical rust most cars of 20th century Pennsylvania had to expect. I don't want to get into extensive bodywork and would like to preserve the car as it is as much as possible. This rust is never going to get worse and I would like to stabilize the area without welding in patches and matching paint. I would like to put some kind of backing up-underneath the fender then applying some kind of clear acrylic. Opinions and or suggestions appreciated. This is inside the right rear dogleg, the plan here is POR 15 and fiberglass cloth built up in layers. I have done this in spare-tire wells and it worked fine. I do plan on welding here to rebuild this body mount. Note remainder of curb-feeler there is a complete on on the rear, are they factory. The hood is lookin scary! Cleaned these brake parts this AM but it is so damp and cold compared to yesterday my hands were killing me, arthritis ya know. Going to Lancaster for a few days to watch the Grandsons will be anticipating reading here on Friday night just what to do with those front fenders. Thanks, Jay

It has to be real there is a photo of it there in his "bible". I bet a lot of you guys grew up with a J. C. Whitney catalog beside the bed. I learned a heck of a lot studying a JCWhitney catalog for hours, I always said I read it like a theologian would read the Bible. jay

This driving seasons car of choice will be the Studebaker. jay

Hello, the Commander's rear brakes are in place and has a new master cylinder, the rear mounting bolt for the master cylinder fought all the way out. The front brakes are next. Each day after doing mechanical work I play for a bit cleaning things. The masking tape is impossible. I have the right front fender cleaned a bit but no photos. I have been firing it up every day and letting it run until warm, all the gauges work, no turn signals but I haven't looked under the dash yet. I saw some Goodyear radials at Walmart that were reasonably priced and looked like a good size, I believe I will take them five wheels. Jay

The Commander was running yesterday and sounds good, topped off the transmission fluid and today I start replacing brake parts. I talked to the people at the glass shop and they can install the rear window when I am ready. Happy Easter, Jay

Big Lucy says to let her sister alone. Locked up frozen straight eight, I waited, next thing a machine shop advertises an abandoned (at their shop) a rebuilt 47 straight 8 for $1,700 dollars a gasket set was about $300. The H.A.M.B. is the place for modified vehicles. Good luck, Jay

Got some work done on the Commander today. The valve covers are on, carburetor installed, fan and pulley in place, oil filter and lines all tight. New throttle return springs seem to be correct. Number one is up top there is oil in the engine, next it will get primed and the distributor put in it's proper location. Then the fuel lines then the battery. Then a prayer and we'll see what happens, Jay

Killing time before I head to the shop as it is cold about 30 degrees F. I was on ebay to look at old car photos. I said "Oh Wow" and my Wife said "don't even think of it you're not getting it" so I showed her the photos of the $225,000 dollar 57 Golden Hawk and the price and she realized I didn't expect to buy it. Now she has not yet seen the driver side of the Silver Hawk. She said that the Golden Hawk was really nice and I told her that the Silver Hawk looked like it but it has a pillar right here. So maybe in her first glimpse of the Silver Hawk she might see the potential beauty. Going to the shop to work on the Commander it is getting close to starting the engine. A good day to all, Jay

Yes sir when I decide it is time the plugs will come out and either with the starter or a socket to the crankshaft nut will be used to see if it is free. It's going to soak awhile the 57 Commander has priority. Thank you for your concern, Jay

Today I learned if you remove the three fasteners that hold the power-brake unit and move it out of the way it is at least possible to replace the spark plugs. The 259 engine holds at least 5 gallons in it's crankcase without any coming out the road-draft tube, I didn't want to make too much of a mess in my sister-in-laws garage. The engine in our 57 silver hawk is about as full as I can get it, the top has acetone/atf and the crankcase has mostly kerosene with acetone/atf to make 5 gallons, now I'll let it sit for awhile. Got some work done on the 57 Commander, water pump, fuel pump and radiator hoses on. The paint is drying on the fan, pulley and spacer and got ten gallons of gas for the tank. Jay

Today I had some time, but it was only 27 degrees this morning so it was an excuse to do inside work. Got vinyl cleaner at the local hardware store and went down the cellar with the rear seat cushions from the 57 silver hawk. Doing this kind of work I think of the movie "Christine" where the garage owner says something like "the kid works in strange ways he got new windshield wipers for a busted windshield" anyhow here are some seat photos I have clean seat cushions but a busted car! this afternoon it was a bit warmer so i got necessary equipment to remove the spark plugs and put some solvent into the cylinders. The silver hawk with power steering and brakes has to be one of the hardest vehicles to remove the front two left-side plugs ever. I was talking to myself, and what a combination of stuff to break them loose! I don't know if it was because they were in so long or if the installer went nuts but they were tight. I don't like to say it but at least five were broken till they were out. Sometime while removing the second spark plug (number 3 cylinder) I thought "it takes a tough man to make a tuned-up Studebaker" Who will tell me the best combination of tools to use on those two plugs,(inline Chrysler manifold fasteners can all be reached with a 1/4 inch drive 9/16 flex socket that's my helpfull hint). Using a piece of tubing and an oil can all the cylinders got filled with an acetone/automatic transmission fluid mixture until they wouldn't hold anymore then put quite a bit down through the carburetor, now we'll let it sit for awhile. I don't want to be taking this thing apart but I am going to see if it will run. Jay

You need to find someone who lives by you and knows these year Chrysler products to see exactly what has been done. I was glad to read it was in your possession and no further butchering is taking place. Replacement parts should be no problem and the stock brakes are more than adequate with original power plant. Jay