the3rsss

I just picked a nos fulton suicide knob for my 49 coronet. Does anyone know what position on the steering wheel these were generally mounted to.

I rebuilt the water valve on my 49 coronet after it started to leak. On the back of the valve is an adjustment screw. I get warm air if the temp. is set at warm or cool. I guess the valve is not closing all the way. has anyone adjusted this valve?

steele rubber makes them but they are not cheap. 300 for a set. keep your eye out on e-bay, it is rare but occasionally they show up.

During a nice fall drive, I noticed my turn signals worked only occasionally. I first suspected the charging system although my amp meter was on charge. When I got home, I revved the engine and the headlights got brighter ( a good sign). I replaced the flasher and still had an intermittant problem with the signals. Recently, I really investigated the problem. I had just rebuilt the gen with a new arm & field coils. It was polorized and putting out a good charge. I also "motored" the generator and it was fine. The volt reg is a nos auto-lite that also tested fine. The voltage at the battery (new) is 6.30 the voltage at the flasher is 5.89. The flasher recieves it's power directly from the horn relay( as well as ignition and a few acc.) The power at the coil was 5.89. Going into the relay, I got 6.28. Going out of the relay with the relay energized I got 5.92volts. I filed& cleaned the relay points, adj the air gap and points gap and still only get 5.89. Is this a bad relay? Only orig elec part on the car! Ps: all new wiring.

NJ law says historic cars must have a historic QQ tag displayed from the REAR of the car ( this info is right from there website) but they sent me a pair and everytime I go to a show the classics have tags frt & rear in nj. Anybody have any insight into this.

I took the cowel vent mech apart, cleaned it primed and painted it. Now I can't figure out how to put it back together ( I can rebuild an automatic transmission but this stumps me) . Anyone out there take these apart? Back together? Oh yeah, 49 coronet.

I don't know if this will help, I could not bleed the brakes on my 49. I tried a vac, pump and still could not get any flow. An old timer at a local flee market told me to brake the line nearest to the mc (before the tee) hook up my bleeder directly to the brake line and work my way out to the wc's. It worked! Must be small pockets of air trapped.

after replacing the brake system(mc, 6 wc's,shoes, springs & lines)my brake light stays on. I have replaced the switch, & bled the brakes again but it comes back on after a short ride and stays on. Anyone run across this before. The pedal is rock hard and it stops fine. Could it be air trapped in the system??

The play is in the steering gears (3" in the wheel) I recently pulled the box, set it up in my vise. and the slop is there so it is in the gears. They do not seem to mesh well and the adjustor just makes them worse. I have put over 300$ into this box and it does not steer any better. Help!!

I use type-f trans fluid in my fluid drive. I noticed a big improvement in power. Type f is cheap, easy to find, will not foam or breakdown, does not have any swelling agents that will ruin your sealsand It has the same viscocity as 10w oil. I have used it for about a year with good results. As far as the trans is concerned, the gyro-matic( or whatever chrysler calls it) calls for 10w while the standard calls for 90w.

Help...3" of slop in the steering wheel of my 49 coronet. replaced the stem bushings, tube bearings (inner and outer)w/ new races, the worm and tube are new and the pinion gear is new. The slop is evident on the bench. The adj seems to make it worse. Are the pinion bushings a very tight fit. The ones I recieved slid right on. Help, any suggestions would help.