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zman

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Posts posted by zman

  1. I agree with Peecher except for one item which are the

    valves,The Flat head ford valves for some years are not rotaetable, meaning they are keyed in one position

    and do not rotate like the orginal Lincoln valve assmblies.

    If you could stay with the V 12 type E Brown has them.Possibly the valves in your engine maybe salvageable.

    Zman

  2. Hey Guy's it sems that the old classic car neets this year

    are mixed up with later 60;s, 70's and later modified hunks of junk, most out of say 150 cars all types probably 5 to 10 are

    older then 1950.

    Of course my "Z" stands out and win's but the competion is lost ha!

    Z man

  3. Hey Schooppi;

    Sounds like you have a mixed up set of 10 inch bolt circle

    rims. probably the original rims at least 2 were put on a ford tractor, you probably should do some re-search on some Ford "N" tractors for years 39 to 1950. ford used the same wheel hub's on the tractors that he used on cars back then.

    The car years for those rims were 36 to 1939.

    What you could do if your not succesfull in locating Rims

    is to find a set of 5/1/2 inch bolt circle hubs and rims, but then your car won't be original.

    I do have a set of 10 inch bolt diameter rims but the cost of shipping wouldn't be worth it!

    Zman

  4. Drove my Z to a show last weekend, engaged it on the way

    and it responded as it should, parked it inline with the rest of the older cars.

    It sat there for 6 hours, so after the show I cranked her up

    placed it in gear with no responce, after several tries to engage the rear axle, by engaging and disengaging the Columbia it finally egaged.

    I checked for vacum leaks and it was ok.I replaced the seal a few years ago It worked perfectly on the way home.

    Any comments please.

    Zman

  5. Ralph

    Changing out that oil pump will correct

    your oil pressure, Your mechanic probably only changed the gaskets, and there is more to rebuilding an oil pump then that!

    Make sure you get a new pump not re built

    On the later pumps you may require removing a Baffle in the Pan, depending on the location of your oil pump pick up.

    Since your pulling the pan make sure you check the cover plate that houses the cam and pump running gear located in back of the block for oil leaks.

    I would take out the pump before ordering the new one, remove the bottom plate and check for wear and sloppy gear

    mesh.If the plate shows wear go back to your mechanic and get a refund.

    Z man

  6. Funny thing about those oil sending unit's if you have one of the original oil senders there will be an arrow on side, which I understand should be facing down if I recall.

    Maybe some one lke Peecher would know. when I turned it facing up the pressure would take a little more time to show oil pressure on the gage.

    Still a mystery.

    Z man

  7. Harell or Earl Brown, both in PA and listed in the on this web site,shouldn't cost much, Then put some "Lucas oil treatment to replace a quart of the oil you use.

    I put some in a Jubalee tractor that sat in a field for 30 years drained the oil and put 15 W 40 with the Lucas.After 100 hours of run time with an oil pressure of 40 psi at around 1200 RPM. and at idle 15 PSI.

    Zman

  8. Graham Seems to me you got your wires mixed up being a 12 cylinder sometimes it's hard to notice try going thru your wiring to make sure your wires are on the right plug,One of my flat heads 7 and 8 were cross wired but seemed to run Ok and thought it was a vacum adjustment at first.

    It's those little things that gets ya!

    Z man

  9. Hey Boz, my expierence is alway's use the "Long" pressure

    plate, it's semi centrifical and reduces the chance of

    grinding gears, Ford used them on all tractors and car's.

    Those have critical measurement from the face of fly wheel

    to the adjustable fingers on the pressure plate,So if you use any other you will have trouble and may need to double clutch like a truck.

    Zman

  10. Hi Guy's I haven't put Dual's on my 40 Z yet but did make some changes on the single pipes by adding a couple of those

    Flex joint's at the bends to reduce matching up miss fit's

    for easy installation.

    On some of the front wheel drive cars they used them to

    allow for flexing of the front wheel drives. they also move when the engine torques and keeps the pipes from being stressed A hole could be cut on the drivers side in the frame with a short piece of pipe inserted and welded to the cut out and by adding 2 of those stainless steel flex joints with one on each side.

    Zman

  11. Phil,

    That's correct a few trucking companies back n the forties

    replaced the V-8 flatheads with V-12's in their tractor trailer truck's heading to the west coast and back, as a matter of fact one of those company's was located in Maryland.

    Although I did see a 53 Snub Nose towing a Travel Trailer

    a year ago who was from NJ.The V-12 looked good in the truck

    with very little modifications, The big problem is fnding one of those trucks.

    Zman

  12. Wheel Hub Guide sales are going great, but have a problem

    with persons that call and want them and leave a message

    with phone numbers that are wrong in the LOZ book of LOZ owners, So for those that called, the prices are the same

    as listed in the way of the Zephyr of march april 2007 Packaging and shipping is $5.00.

    Also you can E mail me at juhasz@cableracer.com

    Zman

  13. Hey Glenn not to worry,as long as the float arm is same length.and it's for a 6 volt system and is for a positive

    ground system.You can test it as was described in earlier

    replies,

    Having the windings open is not a problem just make sure your battery is disconnected and or just incase you forgot

    to turn the ignition switch off when installing the sender

    it will work fine.

    Zman

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