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Everything posted by Garyr1016

  1. How fast is the engine turning at 50 (or 60) miles per hour in high gear on my 1940 series 50 with standard equipment? I'm running 650 x 16 tires with nearly new tread. The speedometer is on the list to fix but working other issues first. I can almost keep up with freeway traffic but don't want to push it past 3.5 to 4 thousand rpms(hopefully I'm not allready doing that). Sometimes you just want to let the big dog run. I'm also aware of the need for increased braking distance and keep double the distance I normally keep. Thanks
  2. Update "Gunk" seal sealer I'm not one for quick and dirty solutions as they are usually too quick and too dirty (causing serious problems later). But on this one item I make an exception. I put in about 6 oz. of seal sealer manufactured by "Gunk" topped off with the transmission with gear oil and ran it gently for maybe 20 miles. Drained it out and refilled with fresh gear oil and this fix took care of perhaps 80% of the leak. I may do this proceedure again to prolong the temperary fix. This doesn't fix the problem but allows me to delay until winter when I can take my time and do the repair right. Nobody likes to have their fine ride sitting up on blocks waiting for parts during the all too brief summer driving season
  3. I recommend a back-to-basics approach to resolve this. You've got unburnt gas getting into your exhaust system. Either a faulty ignition component(a spark plug, wire, cap, rotor, coil) or timing or a too rich a mix on the fuel. Something is allowing unburnt gas to travel through. Just work through it and you'll find it. The engine is too new to have valve problems but a compression test would eliminate that.
  4. Thanks guys, you're the best. I was hoping I could enjoy the ride for awhile before doing any serious mechanicals, but from what you say I need to get after this right away. Thanks again
  5. Getting a puddle of gear oil under car, chased the source and it looks to be the rear of the tranmission. What gaskets and seals can I replace on the tranmission? I'll be replacing the clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing at the same time. I'd like to not have to redo the transmission, it makes some noise but not excessive, just want to fix the leak and/or leaks. Appreciate the advise
  6. Nearly every wire in the harness is losing it's insulation. At the connector ends, at junctions and severe turns. I could start replacing them one by one but I'm hoping that somewhere there is a wire harness manufacturer. Should I go with original (or original looking) wire or modern plastic coated wires? Should I just buy several different color coded spools and do it myself? Any advise is appreciated.
  7. Update 4-27-05 Thanks for the advise, I'll work with it a bit and see where it goes. I was able to get the engine running (happy dance) and as you suggested I'll retest and see what the "dry" and "wet" results are after it is broke in a bit. It runs pretty well considering the variance of the orginial readings.
  8. Update 4-27-05 pm It runs!!!! I replaced the coil and the coil wire to the distributor, and the engine started on the first try. The car had not run for 20+ years, we all did the happy dance around the garage. After it ran for a bit it smoothed out surprisingly well (still a little stutter, not quite a purr but close) considering the broad range of "dry compression test results (see "compression test results" posted on 4-26-05). Thanks for the advise everyone. Gary
  9. Compression test results on my 1940 straight eight engine engine cylinder # and--lbs/sq.in 1--40 2--70 3--35 4--15 5--80 6--55 7--40 8--65 It does not look good, I'll try to get the car running (see previous post "No spark") to see what other mechanical issues come up. Is there any way I could just do the #4 cylinder? That's to say if it's not cracked. I will check around for pricing on redoing the head, new valves, seats, guides, springs etc.. And I know it will run rough given the cylinder to cylinder pressure differences. But I also know that with a redone head the old engine will probably start smoking like my great aunt Patsy or worst throw a rod/break a piston. Or, is the factory spec. compression ratio of 6.5 to 1 forgiving enough to tolerate a new head??? Advise, comments on how to proceed. Thanks
  10. I would normally start at the coil and work forward to the spark plugs to chase the problem. But my question is, What typically goes out on these cars? I could just start replacing stuff, but would like to isolate the problem first. Here's the situation, I'm working at getting a 1940 model 50 running. The car has set for a long time, I've replaced all of the fluids and cleaned and overhauled the fuel system from gas tank to and including the carburetor. Now to check the ignition system. While cranking the engine (ignition switch "on" and remote starter switch bridging the carburetor vacuum switch) there is no spark at the spark plug. Also no spark at the contact points, as I recall there should be some arcing at the contact points if the engine is cranking and the distributor cap is removed Any easy place to look?? Is it possible to test the coil, should I just replace all of the plug wires?? Will a faulty condenser kill the spark?? Comments and/or advise on how to proceed. Thanks
  11. I don't know your model, but on other older cars the speedo cable can be disconnected from both ends and the cable can be pulled out from either of the ends. Apply grease to the entire length of the cable and reinsert/reconnected. Yours may be of a type that can not be disassembled, in which case you will most likely have to replace.
  12. I feel a bit goofy for asking as I have always used SAE 90 gear oil but; What gear oil do I need to use to refill the manual transmission on a 1940. I've looked in the Shop Manual I have and the Lube chart is missing. For the differential it is recommended that SAE 90 Hypoid be used, I would assume the same but want to know for sure. It is also recommended that a SAE 10 or a "light flushing oil" be used first to clean the assemblies (rear-end up on jack stands and ran in high gear at idle for a short duration) and then refill with the proper gear oil. After these many years a good cleaning might be a good idea? Or will removing the gummy build-up cause seal leaking and renewed gear noise? Thoughts? advise? Gary
  13. Where to buy new steel wheels for a '40 buick? The steel wheels on my '40 are serviceable but rusted and pitted, I've thought about having them sandblasted (locally for $10ea) to remove the rust but still have the pits where the rust used to be, and too numerous to fill. Would like to look into new wheels and maybe have them powdercoated. Any sources?
  14. The easist "car" is a pick-up truck. If you're just looking for practice then I vote for a mid 60's to 74 Ford or Chev 1/2 ton pickup truck. The advantages are that there are a lots of vehicles available for not much money. Parts are plentiful and reasonablely priced, less interior work, plenty of room to work in the engine compartment and underneath. The fit and finish is forgiving as its a "truck", everthing you do improves the look. Lots of accessories so customize to your tastes. Resale is good when you are tired of it and want to move onto something more complicated. The one caution is rust (as with all vehicles) check out the bed spend some time finding it. Our first restoration was a 68 Ford 1/2 ton, we did it together ( 2 teen age sons and I ) had a ball and my youngest now drives the coolest "car" in the lot at high school. Our latest project is a 1940 Buick model 51.
  15. Update I removed the key assembly from the ignition and took it into the locksmith, the assembly and tumblers were frozen solid (some metal transfer via electrolysis had taken place) he worked with it for a bit and got it freed up with some special Teflon spray lube. From a master set of keys (about 100) he was able to get it opened. Then disassembled, cleaned and reassembled with a working key for a grand total of $20. And the best part(for me at least) is that this key works everything-- ignition, doors, trunk, glove box and the lock on the gas tank filler door. Thanks for all the advise guys, this is a great forum.
  16. Thanks Joe, I'll verify all lights are off as well as the radio. Should I disconnect the generator?
  17. Guffin, thanks for the info. I will do all of the regular stuff prior to trying to start the car( remove spark plugs, oil in the cylinders, hand turn to break things free, then replace plugs to start). But if it does not start easily it may run the battery down before I get it running and would like to use the 12 volt battery as a back-up rather than waiting 2-3 hours for a quick charge on the 6 volt battery. Also, I do have an external oil cleaner/filter and like your idea of pumping oil into the oil circuit. What devise do you recommend to do the pumping. I guess I could use a hand pump one would use to put gear oil into the differential (fit the plastic hose over the supply fitting running from the oil filter. Your thoughts??
  18. Another one for you pros I'm missing the heater/defrost controls on a '40 model 51. Anyone have a photo of what they look like and where mounted (I believe bottom left side of dash). Thanks again for the help and wisdom.
  19. You guys always have the right answers, here's a good question for you. Can I use a 12 volt battery to jump start (via jumper cables) a 6 volt car. Or, am I looking to burn something up. I used to do it on an old (1959) volkswagen I drove in high school, and always wondered what would break. It may take some work to get the 1940 model 51 to run after 20 years of storage. I'll be giving it the greatest chance to start on the first try (new plugs and ignition parts, rebuilt carb, rebuilt fuel pump, clean fuel lines and tank) but that 6 volt will only crank so long without recharging. And, I'll want to crank it for a while without starting to get the new oil worked thru-out the bearings and verify some kind of oil pressure.
  20. The 1940 model 51 I purchased didnot come with keys(lost years ago). Does just the 1 key fit all?? the ignition, doors, trunk, glove box?? Advise?? I've taken the ignition out and a local locksmith will make a key for it for about $40. Or, I can purchase a new ignition for about the same money. Any advise out there?? Thanks in advance Gary
  21. I'll keep the 1940 Buick 4dr a 6 volt system, but I would like to get a reasonable quality 6 to 12 volt converter to run a CD player(which I will hide from view). Any suppliers out there? Thanks, Gary
  22. I'm tranporting a 1940 Buick 4dr but need to get some tires on it to get it on the trailer. I would prefer some used 650x16 or even 760x16 if someone has extra to sell. Or what late model GM wheel/tire combo will fit the lug pattern so that I've got something on the car for transport and pushing it around in the garage while I get the restore going? Thanks for the help
  23. Thanks for the help Guys, 6-volt it is! How would I power a tasteful sound system, my son tells me he can make my Big Band era jazz sound like front row seats. Perhaps installing an isolated smaller alternator and powering a 12-volt battery and sound system hidden in the trunk? or some kind of converter? I'd probably mount the speakers under the dash or put them in boxes and attach them to the floor, don't want to cut into door panels or kick panels. or am I just looking for trouble?
  24. Is a good idea to convert to a 12 volt system?? Pros and Cons What to do about the radio and clock? Any thoughts out there??
  25. Thanks Charles2, The 1940 Buick I have has crank wing windows behind the rear door windows. So that makes it a model 41 correct? Also, a couple other questions Tires ---Any other source for tires other than Coker? The quote was $151 each for 650x16 with tubes and shipping. ---Will tubeless tires work on the original wheels? ---What other wheels will fit the lug pattern of the 1940 Buick, need some cheap wheel/tire combo to use to load the car onto a trailer and then move it around in the garage while I'm working on it. Value ---What's this car worth?? 1941 Buick 4-door (model 41) complete. All body work in good shape. No rust found in body, floors, doors or truck. Told it was a good runner when parked 20 years ago in a barn. Interior looks to be a little worn but not bad. Thanks for any help Gary
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