Jonathan Miller

Thanks for the input, Layden and Ivan. The starter is currently away being repaired. I'll post up some pictures when it returns.

Wise words, Bud. Thanks for the tip.

The starter motor on our Bearcat has decided to eat itself in fine style. Can anyone help by pointing me in the direction of someone who may have spares or even a replacement unit? Thanks in advance...

The episode is on Discovery Turbo several times this week in the UK. Do a google search on it to get the exact times,. According to my father, it's very good. Are you out and about this year, Stutz in the UK? Our Bearcat will be competing at VSCC Curborough, Shelsley Walsh, Harewood, Prescott and Loton Park, and racing at VSCC Oulton Park and Mallory Park. If you go to any of those events, come and say hello, as there aren't many of us Stutz people in England!

Hi folks. Thanks for the responses. We got a long enough hub puller in the end and got them off like that.

Hi folks, does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the rear brake drums on the above car? I'm presuming that we'll have to make up a puller of some description, but any tips or pointers will be gratefully received.

Thanks edinmass. The block has already been stitchwelded, hence why we're now thinking that something else (too much compression seems the most likely) is causing the cracking. Attached is a picture as requested. Hope it's of interest!

Thanks for the replies, folks. The engine in question is a monobloc, so doesn't have a cylinder head as such. The crack, which I will get a picture of, has occured on the cylinder top. Directly above the cylinder tops is a large water gallery. One line of thought is that the pistons are the wrong shape and are causing too much compression. They are domed and I *think* that they should be flat topped. Anyone have any ideas on their correct shape? I could really do with knowing the compression height - the measurement between the centre line of the wrist pin and the top of the piston. Maybe Jay Leno would let me take his apart and measure them

We have a problem with the block on our 1918 Bearcat. It has a crack on the water jacket, causing water to leak into the cylinder. Is this a common problem, does anyone know? We'd possibly be interested in obtaining a good replacement block, or even having one cast - does anyone have any recommendations, or indeed a spare block?

1903 60hp Grand Prix Mercedes? Rawr!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Twitch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">To anyone who is a true vintage or other auto enthusiast the value of their vehicles is of little consequence. </div></div> That's true, but I have recently been priced out of buying the car that I truly desire. In the Classic Car crash of the early nineties here in the UK, cars returned to sensible levels, and it's only recently that top top quality vintage cars started making top dollar (Vauxhall 30/98 was £75kish 3 years ago, until recently it was approx. £130k). I'm hoping that cars again return to those sensible levels, so that I can buy the dirt track racer of my dreams

Try this for size sir... umm, no thanks SsangYong Rodius

Hi folks. I'm looking for a king pin set for my 66. I've tried all the usual online sources and come up with nothing. Any ideas?

Hi Thomas. The car looks to be a Chrysler 72, and well worth the effort of restoring. With regards to parts, it's really a case of keeping your eye on ebay, taking out the odd copy of Hemmings, and trawling the internet. The wheels look to be wrong - mine runs on wooden wheels with detachable rims. Good luck!

Bill, it was good to meet you last week in Herefordshire. I finally managed to measure the wheelbase on the 72. It's approximately 122 inches (I got it to 119.5 from hub centre to hub centre), so I'm thinking that it is a standard wheelbase American model.

Thanks for the replies guys. Bill: i'll get the tape measure out tomorrow and check out the wheelbase. It looks standard, but is worth confirming. My log book says that my car is 3.5 litres, hence my question <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Doug: The shocks that you describe are the same as mine. As we intend to use the car for some gentle competition (navigational rallies etc.) i'm swinging more and more towards Hartford replicas. I'll be in contact soon re your visit to the UK - I know of 4 vintage Chryslers regularly excercised within 40 miles of here. Have you seen the LeMans rep that the chap at the Fremantle motor museum is building? I think that the body builder got the shock of his life when I told him "I've got one of those" <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Amazing. Thanks for posting it!

I've recently purchased a 1927 Chrysler here in the UK, and the previous owner swears blind that the body was made by "Fisher of Covent Garden London". It's definitely a Fisher body, but does anyone know if Fisher had a plant (presumably for making up CKD kits) here in the UK?

Hello folks, I've recently purchased a 1928 Chrysler 72 2 Door Golfers Coupe for which I need a supplier of "Knight Rebound Controllers". A google search brought up nothing I'm afraid. I'm thinking of converting it to Andre Hartford dampers, but it's worth asking if anyone knows of a supplier. Secondly, the previous owner swears blind that the body was made by Fisher "of Covent Garden London." Does anyone know if Fisher had a London operation (presumably assembling ckd kits)? Wikipedia shows that they had around 40 plants at this time, so I guess that one of them *could* have been in London. Thirdly (and lastly) I'm trying to find the engine number, which is not where it should be (LH side of the engine inbetween 1 & 2 cylinders). There are some numbers on the crankcase, but these don't correspond to anything in my reference book (or on the 66 that I also run). Thanks in anticpation from across the pond.

Thanks for the reply - I thought that this thread was consigned to the dustbin (errr trashcan)! My problem was the impeller, and I ended up having another one made by an excellent local engineer. Strangely enough, I too have problems with the front bushing, and am thinking of getting a grease nipple added. Your car looks fantastic - rather different to mine, which is used as a Trials car (basically, this involves driving your vintage car up muddy hills in the name of sport). Chryslers do rather well, due to the torque of the engine. If you're interested, go to Vintage Knowledge and click on Gallery / Lakeland Trial 2004. My car is one in the 18th and 19th shots down, and there's another Chrysler (a 72) in the 5th and 6th shots down. If not interested, just ignore me!

Hello from across the pond. I regularly use a Toyota Land Cruiser Amazon 4.2 TD for towing. Any vehicle that Afghani Warlords / arab sheiks deem fit for serious abuse is more than man enough for towing our 1930 chrysler about the country.

Nothing specific on your actual unit i'm afraid, but Simms were suppliers of proprietary auto-electrical equipment (magnetos in the main i think), so it could have been fitted to any number of the myriad car companies around at that time. I did a UK Google search on "Simms Motor Units" and it brought up some quite interesting stuff. Hope this helps

Lancia is indeed Italian. Now part of the mighty Fiat empire.

My Little Austin Seven Definitely not a Hot Rod song

There's a company over here (across the pond) that's selling spray-on mud, ostensibly as a jibe at suburban warriors in SUVs, but they seem to have a nice sideline selling to people wanting to obscure their number plate from the dreaded speed cameras that have proliferated in the past 5 years. I'm always saddened to hear of changes which will make an old car look "out of period". Would a PA car of, say, 1930 have had a purple plate? Or 1950 etc? In the UK, cars pre-1968(ish - my memory sux sometimes) are allowed to wear their black and white or black and silver plates, although the font of them can look a bit iffy at times.