Willhelm Reichert

Yup. Scratch that. I think the switch is for the warning light? You want the sensor for the pressure gauge. Hemi where are you???? I think the one wire is the warning light the two wire is the gauge sensor.

Wix. Go to a GOOD parts store. See minimopar's oil filter study.

Adding to Jeff. make sure you get fuel injection hose not regular fuel line hose and don't use hose clamps like the radiator clamps. They are special clamps. and check the clamps after a week. As for the vibration, sometimes the tread is loose and all you will see is one spot in more worn. Also check for cupping. If the tires are worn uneven, they won't ride well.

Let me guess....putting the boat in the water with one too many beers in the tummy. Blocked the ramp for two hours and made everybody waiting mad. Try dielectric grease on the sensor contacts. Also, my turbos go down 10 lbs when the oil is a quart low. If you don't use a Wix filter, put one on. I think Fram gets a commission from Jasper engines.

Try a cheap mech gauge first to see if it's a real problem. I think the senders get gunked up from not being driven as much as an ordinary car. I also noticed you were in my neck of the woods originally. Carbondale, Where great minds come from (your dad and Russ Knize [minimopar]}. My gauge reads low too. The warning light activates at 7 psi. If you look at the gauge with the key on and engine off, it is offscale. So the lowest line is about 20? psi. At the worst, you will have a good excuse with the wife to tear it down and add a few goodies that raise the hp to 300.

Use an Ebay favorite search for chrysler tc. The manual listed right now is not listed right. You want the blue cover. There is one listing for both manuals expires in 2 days for both manuals. http://cgi.ebay.com/Chrysler-Maserati-TC...1QQcmdZViewItem

You need to sit down if you are not.... Take a deep breath...... $500 is fair. You will have to pay more for quick replacement.

1: disconnect the bulb for underhood. Pull one cable from battery. lighty touch cable to battery or use multimeter to see if current is flowing. If not the batttery could have an internal short. Also batteries get sulfated? if left discharged. They won't take a full charge. Or you can have shorted plates in the battery. Step one will tell you if the problem is car or battery. 2: pull fuses one at a time to see which circuit has the gremlin. 3: Go where no mechanic likes to tread. check everything on that circuit. It's probably a trunk light, glove box light, or tire compartment light? Don't know if there is one.

I second that. By my estimate, every state will have to take in 20,000 refugees.

I'm not sure about the New Yorker, but I believe it is the same mechanics as your biggest lemon. Your talking about cars that are 15 years old. If you know how to service them, the chryslers can be reliable.

Tailpipe or hanger. Very little clearance between gas tank and spring. Shake the exhaust tip and see if it rattles. My son pushed some cobblestones on the edge of the driveway with the tail pipe and unhooked the last hanger in doing so. Did I mention the 6' dogwood he mowed down with the garden tractor? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> Yes I drive my tc daily also.

have you no pride??? First you admit to waatching Fawlty Towers. Of course maybe you live where the snow doesn't fly. I just burned out last years gas on mine.

I hereby publicly apologize. Your first post sure sounded like an internet scammer. The fire alarm went off when you said it had a numbered plaque. I didn't think any TC's had a dash plaque. Maybe a vanity plate the owner had made. You are listed on the internet and your name is listed with the company. My apologies again. In the words of John Cleves in Faulty Towers, "I hereby publicly apologize and regret any embarassment I have brought upon myself!" <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

Please post the Name and address of your company. I have numerous friends in Michigan to check out the car. I also need a hard wired phone number to confirm your identity to pursue this further.

I sent you a pm regarding Nigerian scams.

I think we better watch out for scammers. Be careful folks. Looks like some are getting more aggressive. Personally I like to scam the scammers. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Tis the looneytuner. I posted a link to hemi on the other site. I tried your email but it bounces everything to a dead link. I spent some time talking to somebody that restores MG's. We agreed that maintaining and restoring the newer classics like the tc requires a lot more knowledge and pain. You might be better off reselling the tc since the complexity of the newer cars is tenfold that of the sixties and back. I have been with the Chrysler turbos since 87 and I guess that I have learned the patience to deal with them. I'm still reading and learning new things every day. My latest quest is modifying the transmissions for 140+ mph. Actually I'm shooting for 180 mph. I think the tc though would need an FAA license for those speeds.

Contact Rick Diogio? rick@rdiperformance.com He is in central Fla. and is the master of the 16 valve. Your lucky to have one of the masters so close.

He tinkers with his site quite a bit I think. If the full link doesn't work, try just the first part to get to the TC part.

Let's post some thanks to these two especially. I for one would be in serious trouble without their dedication and expertise. I think most of our cars would be collecting dust without them. For those that have been helped, let's give them a big hug and thank you!!!!!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Carfax doesn't go back that far. If the buyer wants it, they should get it themselves. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

http://www.turbosunleashed.com/ Their calibrations are done to your equipment and parts. Do all the mods first or you are wasting the money. Has very detailed form you must fill out before they do the cal.

You are fired. I managed to get back in but it took a few tries and I don't remember how. I'm trying to help a member that is semi literate in computers and he is FRUSTRATED.

314 878 8257 I have a GOOD mechanic on St. Charles Rock Road, the factory service manual, And know 3 turbo dodge experts in North County. You are in luck.

White smoke is antifreeze. Every five minutes sounds like headgasket lifting? Reason-? Air pocket in head because it wasn't bled properly? cheap head gasket? old head bolts not replaced? It is standard practice now to drill 1/8" hole in top of thermostat to make sure all the air in the head is bled out. If you look where the thermostat housing is, There is a recessed plug. This is supposed to be loosened to bleed the air from the head. The 1/8 hole is to make sure the head gets rid of any remaining air pockets that may build up. If you have a future coolant leak, it will suck air after cool down BEFORE it starts leaking antifreeze. The ONLY headgasket to use is Mopar. The head bolts are "torque to yield" which means they stretch. Your temp gauge will not show the overheating since it is by the thermostat and will not be reading coolant temp but cooler air temp with an air pocket there. If your mechanic is not mopar specific and does not subscribe to one of the three online professional service manuals, I think you need to go elsewhere.