Mike_Zahorik

I'm glad this help others, besides myself. I have driven the car quite a bit since the rebuilt pump and it runs fine. It is interesting that the 1 pint per minute works out to 7.5 gallons per hour, which is less that the numbers above. So I deem this problem solved, Thanks for the help, Mike

About the only information I found in a manual was that the pressure should be 3-4 pounds. Actually, both the old and the rebuilt pumps had around 4#. I seem to remember that some of these old carburetor float needle valves can not hold back 5#. The flow test was at cranking speed, less than idle, so you are probably correct in that 6 oz is low. Suppose I could rig up a temp fuel supply to the carb and measure again. Maybe if the problem comes back. I really like your SWAG. You are correct in thinking that 60 MPH is pushing it. The engine is screaming around 50 MPH. My gas mileage has been between 14 and 15 MPG. 12.8 oz/minute does seem a little low, especially if that one pint in 30 seconds is correct, yet I have put the engine back together and it seems to run just fine. Time will tell. AND, after closely inspecting the inlet check valve, it was definitely leaking. Thanks for the help, MIke

Recently my 1939 Chevy Master Deluxe JA developed a fuel pump problem. At speed the car would lop as if it were starving for fuel. Then going slower the engine would smooth out. My general question is, what is a good fuel flow rate for a fuel pump of this vintage. My fuel pump is a AC mechanical pump model AF. I set up a flow test and found that the old pump would deliver about 3oz of fuel in 30 seconds. After rebuilding the pump I could get 6oz in 20 seconds, which is about 3 times as much as the poor pump. I read somewhere that a mech fuel pump should deliver about a pint (16oz) in 30 seconds, but maybe that is for more modern pumps? I have cleaned the tank, lines sediment bulb and carburetor. I also measured the travel on the eccentric of the camshaft and found it to be nearly 0.300 inch (I believe this is supposed to be 0.250"). I think I'm at the point of just re assembling this mess and just seeing if the problem has been corrected. Should would be nice if there were some tech spec's on some of this old stuff, or have I been looking in the wrong places, Thanks for the help, Mike

Thanks for the reply. Been doing a little reading and apparently the epoxy primer is the important item after abrading the surface. Thanks I'll give it a try. Mike

I have a 1939 Chevy Master Deluxe. The car has what was (I believe) painted chrome. The front and rear emblem and the side hood strips. I have in the past tried to paint these items using enamel paint. It starts out looking great, but after a year or so, seems to come loose and fall off. I've made sure that the surface was clean. I thought of roughing up the chrome a little for better adhesion, but the surfaces are rather small and difficult to do. Any ideas on how to obtain better results? Thanks Mike

Yup, you are right about resistance and grounds. I have run an extra ground wire to each headlight and to the back for that tail lights. It makes a big difference. Thanks Mike

Thanks for the help. When I tried each bulb I didn't notice a difference in brightness, yet the difference in wattage should have made it so. I'll have to try it again some time. Mike

My 1940 Chevrolet developed a headlight problem and I had to replace one bulb. After searching around thru all my stuff I found three different bulb all of which worked, but I'm wondering what is the difference between these bulbs, AND is there a listing of these types of bulbs that would have any specifications for them. The bulbs I have are GE 4030, GE5040S and Westinghouse 6006. Thanks Mike

It's a GT 8774B. AND..... I need 3 of the upper spring hardware, the piece that looks like a stovepipe top hat. Thanks Mike

Well.... I purchased new springs from EGGE machine, plus a number of new valves. BUT... we dropped a horse shoe keeper into the oil pan. So the pan had to come off. Now I'd like to check the bearings, but don't have any torque spec's for the rods or mains. Also Curti, you sent me the name of a guy who knows these engines, but I lost it. Could you send it again? I'd appreciate it. Thanks Mike

No..... just a valve refresh and some new springs. The engine was sound and would develop good pull. Mike

Thanks, I'll call after the holiday. The Gardner suffered a broken valve spring. The engine would make a strange bell like sound, besides running crumby. The valves seem to be OK, but a little closer inspection is needed. The engine was last worked on about 35 years ago and rebuilt maybe 25 years prior to that. In the picture you can see the missing valve. That is the spot where the spring failure took place. No 4th of July parades this year. I'm hoping that I can find enough valve springs to replace them all. And maybe I can just lap the valves. If not a valve job is in the future. This car is a Model 75 with the 225 cu inch inline 8 engine.

I'm looking for valve springs for my 1928 Gardner. It has a 225 cu in Lycoming engine. I have seen that the valve springs for my car are the same as those for an Auburn 76, 88 105 from 1928 plus some others. Could anyone tell me where I can purchase some valve springs like these. Thanks Mike

I have a 1939 Master Deluxe. The voltage regulator will not hold a voltage setting, seems that it will change from day to day. The generator and regulator are the correct units for the car. I was wondering if there is an electronic replacement for this regulator. Thanks Mike ZAhorik

Sounds like you have tried this. Does the tarp stick to the car or is the styrofoam just for air, because the tarp does not breathe? The real reason for the cover is that the fornt windshield does not seal against rain and snow. I do not want the floor broads and metal to get any worse than they are now. Thanks for the idea. I'll give it try.

I have a 1937 Humpback 4 door Ford V8. It has to be moved outside for this winter. It is an original car and fair shape, but I want to cover it and protect it. I have found that most good car covers are $250 or more. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to car and protect a nice, maybe not good, car from the winter that would cost less than $100? Thanks Mike