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Everything posted by tgryphon

  1. Thanks, kmstrade, for the suggestion. As it happens, I just bought a different '23 Stutz Speedway 4 roadster so don't need the info now. I see you have a '23 as well. I am wondering what the best source of technical info on the Stutz is. Before long, I am going to dig into the brakes and steering and need info on them. Tom
  2. I believe that this car was in Tim LaQuay's collection in Victoria, Texas. Anyone know how to contact him?
  3. Auction houses keep the IDs of their consigners to themselves, for understandable reasons, I guess. I emailed Mecum, but did not get a response.
  4. At Mecum's Harrisburg auction this year there was a 1923 Stutz Speedway 4 roadster that was bid up to $80,000 but not sold. I am interested in this car and would like to contact the owner. If anyone can let me know how to contact him, or get a word to him to contact me through the forum, I would very much appreciate it. An auction photo is attached.
  5. Here's an update on the problem of wander on my '41 Continental. After following all of the good advice given by the folks who replied to this posting of last November, I went through the suspension again and found one problem: the left rear wheel bearing was loose. It took me a couple of months to figure out how to get it apart and then repair the bearing race in the differential housing, but it is now like new. Unfortunately, that didn't change the wandering issue at all. I went back to the alignment shop to confirm everything was in spec, and noticed that caster was on the low
  6. 19tom40: Date codes on the tires show them to be three years old. I took your advice and lowered the pressure to 35 all around and drove the car. Then I tried different combinations of front 32, rear 35; front 35, rear 32; both 32. There was some improvement (tho not much) at the lower pressures. I think now that there must be something wrong that I am just not seeing. I think I will jack the car up and inspect front and rear one more time.
  7. Roy: Glad all is well with you. And thank you for the invitation.
  8. Matt: Good info. I use Diamondback radials on my '34 Packard and like them a lot.
  9. Matt: I was afraid you were going to say that. Now I will have to buy new bias tires. Phui.
  10. Thanks for these suggestions. Let me answer what I can. Shocks are all rebuilt and adjusted towards the firm side. They feel OK, though I am no fan of Houdaille shocks. They are very temperature sensitive. The Coker 7.00R16 tires I have at Coker's recommended pressure...41 PSI...and have just rotated them. I dismantled the steering gear last year and had to remove only one shim to take out the free play between worm and rotor. It is in excellent shape now, doesn't bind, and I cannot see any play in anything else in the front end. Matt: i
  11. Thanks to the three of you for your responses and suggestions. Here's what I have done. I checked alignment...caster and camber were OK but toe-in was off. I corrected that but it made no difference to the oversteer. I confirmed again that there were no problems like loose tie rod ends, binding king pins or steering box, or loose spring shackles or track bar. Then I tried reducing rear tire pressure 5 PSI. That made no difference either. So I am back where I started. Any more suggestions?
  12. My '41 Continental has severe oversteer. When cornering, even on a gentle freeway curve, after I turn the steering wheel to start a turn, I have to correct back nearly to the steering wheel center position to keep from oversteering. It makes the car pretty unstable on undulating roads or in a crosswind. I have rebuilt the entire front end including spring, shackles, track bar and sway bar. King pins, shocks and tie rod ends are OK. Steering box is not worn. I have Coker radials all around. I haven't done anything with the rear end, although I can see nothing obviously wrong. The only thin
  13. Interesting that a Packard model seven years older than mine resets OK and mine doesn't. Re your '27 not tracking...I have a '41 Continental with the same problem but found that the reset knob was not pulling out all the way and consequently the gears were not in mesh inside the odometer. You might check this out.
  14. Phooey. I was afraid of that. Makes it pretty useless, doesn't it? Thanks anyway, O. D., for the response.
  15. The trip odometer in my 1934 Packard will not reset to zero. Instead, when I press in and turn the reset knob either forward or backward it just counts up or down mile-by-mile without picking-up the adjacent counter wheel. Any suggestions?
  16. Thanks to the two of you for responding. They were very helpful and solve the problem of how to get my glass etched!
  17. Does anyone have a 1930s Packard that has the original safety glass windshield still in it? If so, I would like to get a photo of the etched safety glass logo. Are etching stencils available? My car is a '34 Coupe-Roadster and I want to get the proper logo etched onto the glass. Thanks for the help!
  18. Thanks for the suggestion...I'll try that. Has anyone tried putting a couple of diagonal score lines across the lining? I thought that might change tendency toward squealing, though for the better or not, I don't know.
  19. Are there any tricks anyone can pass on about how to stop an external contracting (band) brake from squealing? My 1902 White is terrible. It has a single band brake on the chain-driven differential. The lining (Scan-Pac GGW) and drum (cast iron) were replaced last year and all was fine then, but now this year the brake makes a horrible racket.
  20. Roger, You are right that the steel will get hotter and probably will expand faster eventhough its coefficient of expansion is less than bronze. So maybe a press-fit sleeve would work. And it certainly would allow a better lining material. Stopping from 60MPH is not a concern...on a good day I can get up to 25 or 30. The concern is a long downhill grade. Steamers (as this car is) have no compression braking. White in one of its publications says to drag a log behind on a long grade. Tom
  21. Thanks, Frank and Roger, for your good advice. I have some other very recent input that indicates modern woven material would give good stopping power because its coeffecient of friction is higher, but that it is abrasive and would cause wear on the bronze drum. This material is Kevlar-based. This fellow thinks that the original lining would have been a "treated cotton belting". Sounds to me like Scandanavian band linings for a Model-T. Anybody have thoughts on that? I wonder if it would run dry without shredding. Or if the tarred Scandanavian would work... Re Roger's suggestion of a st
  22. My 1902 White steamer has a single band brake on the chain-drive differential and uses a cast bronze drum. I need advice on what type of lining to use. When I bought the car it had a woven lining of unknown material (asbestos?) but this had hardly any stopping power. I replaced it with a Scan-Pac 242-OR molded lining (same as McMaster's "high friction" lining). This material ate-up the soft bronze drum badly in just a couple hundred miles and the car still didn't stop well. There is conjecture that the original lining was leather, but the expert in such things, Bob Knaak, says leather won't
  23. Thanks everyone for your responses. Looks like 1949 was the first year for the bullseye headlights and I'll need to find some GEs.
  24. No, this George Whitney was originally from Washington state and went to SF in the mid-twenties. He was quite an entrepeneur, building his SF empire during the depression from his start as a carnival ride operator. He collected anything. His motto was that if an item attracted paying customers, he collected it.
  25. I bought a very original and relatively low mileage 1941 Packard recently and it has the early AutoLite "Bullseye" sealed beam headlights with metal backs installed. Does anyone know when these "bullseye" bulbs were first introduced? I've seen them on Mopars of the fifties, but never earlier.
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