carbking
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Posts posted by carbking
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Updated list:
Numbered 257s, 262s, 289s, 586s, 638s, 640s, 641s, 2035s, 2212s, 3377s, 4403s
Coded 4A1, 4A2, 4A3, 6A1, 6B1, 6B2, 6C1, 6C2, 6D1R, 6F1, 6J2, 6J3, 6K2, 6K3, 6N1, 6N2, BB1D
Need one of each of the above, please help if you can.
Jon
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Ramair - thank you!
A loan, however, wouldn't work, as I plan on a complete cosmetic and mechanical restoration of each unit prior to the pictures. This is part of my requirement that the original tag be present on any carbs I acquire. I can identify the carbs without the tags, and I have written authority from Carter to reproduce the tags; but it would be somewhat costly.
Here is a link to a similar article I did on W-1 Carters for Chevrolet a few years ago:
I intended to do just the Chevrolet BB-1's, and then decided to expand my efforts.
I now have at least one of all of the BB-1's used by Chevrolet, and most of the universal aftermarket units, including the very rare, but not very desirable BB-1 Special that is seldom seen.
The Chrysler units seem a little more difficult to find, but I have a couple of them as well.
I have enough to start my article when the weather warms, and I can add to it as I acquire other units.
I will start with the Chevrolet units, and when they are done, the unfinished article will be posted on my website, and then amended when possible.
Jon
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Nothing in my files about the Federal Zephyr carburetor; but there is a reference on the internet that George A. Breeze was a consulting engineer for the Federal Brass Works.
Jon
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Found a 489s and the super rare, but not overly desirable BB-1 Special.
Updated list:
Numbered 257s, 262s, 289s, 586s, 638s, 640s, 641s, 2035s, 2212s, 3377s, 4403s
Coded 4A1, 4A2, 4A3, 6A1, 6B1, 6B2, 6C1, 6C2, 6D1R, 6F1, 6J2, 6J3, 6K2, 6K3, 6N1, 6N2, BB1D
Need one of each of the above, please help if you can.
EDIT: Removed 289sd from the list
Jon
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6 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:
And one and two are??? Not suitable for publication?🤣
Frank - number 1 was putting an electric choke on my wife's car (a 1970 with automatic transmission) because I didn't (at least I thought I didn't) have time to fix the heat source for the hot air choke.
Number 2 was thinking I was a smart enough enthusiast to modify a Pontiac TransAm with a 301 to run as well as a 1969 Toyota Corona 4 cylinder!
Both are long stories. Both were lessons.
The short versions:
(1) My wife informed me she didn't like walking home!
(2) Before modifications the Toyota could spot the TransAm 1st and 2nd gears; after a complete engine overhaul and a factory turbo was added to the 301, the Toyota could still spot the TransAm 1st gear.
Jon
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Shucks, I must be getting old. 1928 Pontiac instead of my guess of 1929.
Jon
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As previously stated, numbers on side will positively identify, guessing 1929 Pontiac or Oakland.
Jon
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Looks like an early glass bowl Stromberg. Picture is insufficiently clear to say exactly which one.
Stromberg made models A, B, C, D, E, G, and H with glass bowls.
Jon
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Started working on cars in 1959. The blocked cross-over was one of the top 3 of dumbest mistakes I have made in that time working on my own cars.
Thinking about it, it would be number 3.
Jon
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Late to this thread, and seems the OP has it figured out.
In the FWIW category, some 30 years ago, I listened to the internet and blocked the heat passages on a Pontiac.
Took awhile to finish the engine (lots of folks wanted carbs rebuilt
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When I finally got it together, and started driving it, was quite disgusted with performance in town for the first 30 MINUTES! It stalled at every stop sign or light, even with the ambient above 80 degrees. It did start fairly easily.
Changing the carburetor to one with a MANUAL choke was easier than changing the intake; and it solved the problem.
And no, I WOULD NEVER BLOCK THE CROSSOVER ON A STREET DRIVEN VEHICLE AGAIN!
Jon
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I have the carburetor, no help on the heat riser.
573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time).
Jon
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My wanted ads for these carburetors are doing nothing!
I have added 3 more to the 11 different I had, making 14 different, but I found these on a bottom shelf in my own inventory.
Since I have custody of many of the remaining Carter files, empirical research is relatively easy. But I NEED physical carburetors to take my research to the next level.
Below is a table comparing the sizes, both S.A.E. flange size, and internal venturi sizes of all of the BB-1 carbs.
Please note the largest internal venturi is 1.1875 ( 1 3/16 ) inch. These were primarily used on the Chevrolet 235 CID stovebolt 6.
The 2075s will flow the most of any of the BB-1's. It has the same internal venturi as the 871s series (used on the Chevy 235), however the internal portion of the throttle body was tapered, giving somewhat more flow. The 2075s was used on the Chevrolet 261 engine.
The Carter BB-1 is a good carburetor, hundreds, perhaps thousands of enthusiasts have proved this; but a carburetor that originally was used on a 261 CID is not going to work well on a 500 CID engine! And while it may work on a 285 CID, probably not as well as a Stromberg or Zenith with the correct air flow.
I NEED CARBS! The list needed is in my "wanted" ad.
Condition is relatively unimportant, as long as the carb is complete, and the original tag is in good shape. After 50 years of fixing junk sent to me, I am pretty good about fixing junk!
So, throwing our some bait
Jon
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No longer need 517s or 699s.
Still need one each of the others.
Jon
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Hugh - sorry that you had bad luck with the Schebler D; we have had lots of customers use them successfully.
A few thoughts:
A new old stock Schebler D would be at least 80 years old (the Marvel/Schebler division of Borg/Warner was still making them as late as 1940).
Other than the normal spider nest in a jet possibility, there are three possible issues that come to mind:
(1) the cork gasket between the body halves could dry up, shrink, and create an internal vacuum leak.
(2) the leather sealing surface of the air valve could deteriorate and not seal at idle.
(3) the air valve spring could fatigue allowing the air valve to open too soon, thus running lean.
Jon
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In the for what its worth category:
The information in my database suggests that Metz used a Schebler model D on the 1909, 1910, and 1911 models. The D would be easier to adjust than the H.
The model H Schebler was typically used on motorcycles.
Of course records from this period are mostly incomplete.
Jon
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That carb has either been subjected to a severe backfire(s) or worked on by Dr. Goodpliers.
Replace.
Jon
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We have factory (Stromberg) documentation on both; plus rebuilding kits, and many internal parts for either.
No castings for either.
Jon.
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Clean off the tag barely visible in picture 3. The inner number will be the Zenith identification number.
Jon
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The original would have been a Zenith type L-6 in 1913. This carb was obsoleted in 1914, and replaced by a Zenith M-6.
Either of these might be difficult to find.
As far as equivalents:
Brass Stromberg L-3 or M-3
Cast iron Stromberg SF-3 or SFM-3, Zenith 63AW12 or 263M2E12
Any of the above should be fitted at rebuild with a 28~30mm venturi, and the externally adjustable main metering jet.
You MIGHT get a Carter BB-1 289s or 289sd to work if you butcher the idle circuit.
None of the above are available new. You simply need a good shot of patience, and look for one.
Jon
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We still make the kit for the M-1, if you are not in a hurry. We are fairly backed up right now on pre-WWII kits other than Carter, but taking orders to process as received.
Contact info in my signature block below.
Jon
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Air Friction made a number of different configurations.
If you are concerned that yours might get lonely, I have two of them, an updraft and a sidedraft, on Ebay right now.
The updraft on Ebay is a salesman's display sample.
Jon
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Testing with an auxiliary fuel tank with electric pump would tell you if it is ignition related or fuel delivery related.
Jon
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NO, there is not such a source of information; because:
The Imperial used a 1 3/16 venturi.
The late Packard used a 1 5/16 inch venturi, thus applying the Chrysler calibration would result in a lean condition due to lower venturii air velocity in the larger carburetor.
The early Packard EE-3 used the same 1 3/16 inch venturi as the Imperial.
So why did Ed suggest the later Packard carb?
Guessing here:
While the early EE-3 was better than the DD-3, the early (1932 and 1933) EE-3's had "teething" problems.
Stromberg revised some of the internal circuitry in 1934 when they went to the 1 5/16 venturi, and again revised the circuitry in 1937 (the late Packard EE-3). In addition to better internal circuitry, the later carbs had better quality castings.
And finally, the early Packard carbs (poorer castings) are MUCH more difficult to obtain, as many of the castings have failed.
I totally agree with Ed, that the late Packard EE-3 would make an excellent upgrade; but if you do so, leave the Packard calibration in the carburetor, and tune from there.
You could even replace the Packard throttle arm with the Chrysler arm.
Jon
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Removal of the 2 large screws should allow the air horn to be carefully removed.
This will expose the linkage to both the accelerator pump and the vacuum piston. This would include the pump lever and the shoulder screw. Removing the shoulder screw (its been awhile, but I THINK it is left-hand thread) will allow the pump lever to removed. Now, both the accelerator pump and vacuum piston may be detached from the pump lever, allowing these items to remain in the bowl. Now removal of the three smaller screws should allow the bowl cover to be removed.
Totally free, and non-requested advice:
Unless you cannot see the car behind you in the rear view mirror for the black smoke, leave it alone, and DON'T look at the spark plugs
Jon
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1911 Metz oil capacity
in Technical
Posted
Hugh - if not too much trouble, I would like to have the identification number on the model H for my records. Somewhere there should be a stamping in the casting (generally on top) "HXnn) where nn is a number.
Thanks in advance.
Jon