carbking
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Posts posted by carbking
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There may be multiple issues here.
As far as the carburetor venting and replacing the gaskets is concerned: I didn't see a picture of your carburetor, but you stated 1950 Buick and Carter carburetor. The 1950 Buick would have used a Carter type WCD 2-barrel number 725s on the 40 or 50 series and number 726s on the 70 series. Often the tag is missing and people guess. Carter produced a total of 112 DIFFERENT type WCD carburetors and they do get changed. Generally if the tag is missing, the carburetor is NOT original. For the record, we offer 37 different rebuilding kits for the various type WCD carbs. Using incorrect parts can create issues.
Carburetor tags. Carburetor tag numbers are REQUIRED to determine the EXACT REBUILDING KIT for a carburetor. Tags are often missing and GENERALLY because the carburetor is NOT the ORIGINAL carburetor to the vehicle. Commercial carburetor rebuilders (selling their product through auto parts stores) GROUP many different but similar carburetors together under their OWN identification number, and throw away the tag so an informed customer does not know what he/she is receiving. Generally (NOT always) these grouped units will fit the manifold and function (although NEVER as well as the original), but internal parts may be different.
As far as the hard starting hot issue, please read this link: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Hardstarthot
As far as the vapor bubble and carb running out of gas when running: As others have mentioned, an electric pump is a "pusher" type pump. It would push a liquid around the world, but it will not pull a liquid uphill more than maybe 2 or 3 inches! For proper results, the electric pump should be mounted as close to (and preferably below) the fuel tank as possible.
Again as others have mentioned, the fuel tank MUST have an operable vent to allow pressure inside the tank to equalize. Otherwise very little fluid could be added to the tank, and very little fluid could be removed from the tank.
If the electric pump is correctly mounted, AND there is so air leak between the fuel source and the electric pump, AND the fuel tank is correctly vented; then the electric pump would blow the vapor bubble out of the filter, and the carburetor would not run out of fuel.
DON'T GIVE UP! It will turn out to be something simple that has been overlooked, and a few years from now you will be able to tell the story and laugh about it.
Jon.
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The 1926 Dodge Brothers used a Stewart carburetor. Stewart was a division of Detroit Lubricator Company.
Ford, to my knowledge, NEVER used a Stewart carburetor; however, Ford did use a Detroit Lubricator (totally different model) on their V-8 engines of 1932 and 1933.
Chevrolet did use a Stewart Carburetor (totally different model); but only on export cars to Canada in 1923 and 1924.
Bottom line: no interchangeability to Ford or Chevrolet on the carburetors.
The good news is the Stewart carburetor (opinion) was a better carb than either the ones used by Ford or Chevrolet, and parts (although not inexpensive) for the Stewart are available as are complete Stewart carburetors.
Jon.
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You might take a look at the radiator return (lower) hose.
In earlier times when quality was more important than the selling price, longer lower radiator hoses were reinforced with wire to prevent collapse. Newer hoses (at least the ones available in our local auto parts stores) do not have the wire.
I completely solved a severe overheating problem on a Ford 390 by cutting the center from the lower radiator hose, and replacing it with a length of double wall aluminum electrical conduit.
The lower lower hose is not under pressure. At higher RPM, it can be pulled completely shut without the wire. Maybe not your issue, but worth checking.
Jon.
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The Carter 664s was originally used on 1948 and 1949 Buick series 70 with the 320 CID engine:
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kbuick2.htm
The Carter documentation indicates that the first Carter to be used on the 320 CID was 1940, not 1939; so if you wish to be totally original then your choice is Stromberg.
However, (opinion) since the 664s was a newer design than the WD-0 Carter used on the 1940 Buick, and also newer than the original Stromberg (Stromberg replaced the AA series carburetor in the early 1950's with the WW) I would suggest the 664s is an excellent choice for a "driver" that would lose a few points in a national show.
Also, the Carter WCD with the Carter metering rod design is much easier (albeit maybe initially more expensive) to modify for use in a variety of conditions (lower energy ethanol fuel, high altitude, etc.) than the Stromberg.
The WCD series Carter (the 664s is a WCD) was not obsoleted until the mid-1970's.
Jon.
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Lots of "pigeon-holing" and generalizations in this thread. I have my own generalizations, but no proof, so will not offer them.
Personal observation:
Two children, two "marriage-children", all in their 40's; one grandchild - 15
One child enjoys both cars and motorcycles; has restored two cars and one motorcycle
One marriage child loves both racing and motorcycles; has restored many motorcycles
One child and one marriage-child drive, but not interested in vehicles except as transportation.
Granddaughter is car-crazy, and enjoys Grandpa's cars.
And on another note: demand for our carburetor rebuilding kits is currently at a 40 year high, so there are certainly many that are working on cars!
Jon.
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Hi,
I only drive around 500 miles a season with my car so I am unsure if more or less use constitutes more frequent cleaning. I would like to do preventative cleaning to circumvent having to frequently tear it down and soak the parts. Any hints will be helpful.<o:p></o>
The VERY BEST way to circumvent frequent teardowns is to start the car more often (like ever other day)!!!
There are NO "miracles in a can" (other than RAIN-X, but that won't work on carburetors.).
Don't try to clean the carb on the car. Either start it more often (which keeps fresh fuel in the carburetor, and minimizes "gunk" buildup from evaporation in the bowl), or a periodic tear down and rebuild.
Jon.
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The Pontiac 10-721 does not have the intermediate speed circuit found in the 10-708 Oakland carb. Bodies and jetting are both different.
Jon.
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Jon, what is your favorite place to apply "New Jersey zinc di-chromate" on my EX32's
Curt - I honestly don't know. As the demand for our rebuilding kits has forced us to cease carburetor restorations (we haven't done a carb in almost 3 years), I don't know who currently is still doing the chromate on zinc. I would check with your favorite chrome plater, as the waste treatment facility would be the same for both processes.
Jon.
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The Darrin carburetor (original) was made in St. Louis, Missouri, not Brazil.
It is a unique carburetor, as it has a 1 5/16 main venturi, on a S.A.E. size 2 frame (ALL other Carter YF's with the 1 5/16 venturi are built on the S.A.E. size 3 frame.
My information shows the Darrin to be a 161 CID 6. Kaiser's standard 161 CID 6 used the S.A.E. size 2 frame, but the main venturi was 1 1/4 rather than 1 5/16 (1/16 smaller). These, while not common, are available. I believe the standard carb would work, but would somewhat reduce the power of the Darrin engine at W.O.T.
Jon.
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Paint.
Jon.
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Now I'm confused. Plants breathe in carbon dioxide and give off oxygen. How can I be anti carbon dioxide and pro reforestation at the same time.
For several years, we have acquired saplings from the Missouri Department of Conservation to set out in the spring. The saplings are exceptionally reasonable in price. I do not know if other states have similar programs, but I would wager many do.
As restorer32 stated, plants take in CO2 and give off O2. Seems a no-brainer to have a few trees in the vacinity.
Jon.
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Just food for thought:
An electric choke goes off by time.
The hot air choke goes off by engine temperature.
If one has an older automatic transmission, and tries to use the vehicle when the temperature is below maybe 50 degrees; one backs out of the driveway, stops at the stop sign 3 blocks from one's house, where the engine stalls, AND WILL NOT RESTART!
The solution(s):
(A) After starting the engine in the morning, go back in the house for your second (and maybe third) cup of coffee.
(
Don't try to use the vehicle in cooler weather.© Convert to a standard transmission.
(D) DON'T convert to the electric choke.
If the heat stove is burned through, here is a solution:
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Heatstovefabrication.htm
Jon.
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The Carter is similar to the edelbrock isn't it? -Dave
If the Carter is similar to the e-clone, Rolls-Royce is similar to a model T (both at least have four wheels).
Jon.
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Dave - the 4GC is a larger carb than the VW carb, and has a few more pieces. On the other hand, the quality of the materials of the Rochester are far superior to those of the Solex, so doing a quality rebuild is much easier with the Rochester.
As to the youtube videos, cannot say, as I have not watched them.
The good news about the internet is that anyone can post HOWEVER
the bad news about the internet is that anyone can post!!!
There is sufficient Rochester material available if you look for it; as well as information in Buick shop manuals, Motors manuals, etc. that were written during the period when the carburetor was new.
If you doubt your ability to do the rebuild, find a knowledgable local that has done these carbs, and invite he/she over for a Saturday BBQ and carb rebuilding session. Nice to make friends, and learn more about your car.
Jon.
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If you have a basically stock engine and two original carbs, one a Carter, the other a Rochester AND you have both professionally rebuilt.
Then take the car to a mechanic, have he/she install one of the carbs, and not tell you which one, and seal the hood. Drive the car a 1000 miles. Then return it to the mechanic, who then installs the other carb. Seal the hood, and drive 1000 miles.
You will not be able to tell the difference in the 1000 mile drives. Good driveability, same mileage, same power.
HOWEVER:
If the engine is highly modified (big cam, headers, increased compression, etc.) you will find more individuals that can MODIFY the Carter (and it is somewhat easier to modify) than the Rochester.
Jon.
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We have had a number of customers try to use the "one into two" adapters, totally given up because of less than optimal performance (even assuming room to mount the adapter and carb); and looked at other options.
A much better option that the one into two is to fabricate a new manifold for either a larger single barrel carb or for two single barrel each the same size as one side of the two barrel. We have had a number of customers report back that the dual setup worked better than the original on the straight eights (better cylinder fill ratios on the end cylinders, and more contant A/F ratios on all cylinders).
Fabricating an intake is not difficult if you can weld aluminum (I cannot, but I know welders that can).
One can acquire a piece of aluminum "sheet metal" with a thickness of one inch (3/4 might work as well) for the piece that bolts to the cylinder head.
Preformed bends in 15, 30, 45, and 90 degree angles of the correct diameter may easily be acquired from an electrical supply house (its called conduit).
The flange can be part of one of the adapters.
Make sure the plenum is as large as the original plenum.
Jon.
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It is possible that, if the car were prone to vapor lock issues in very hot city driving conditions (say 90 degrees plus), the large line MIGHT make this condition worse.
Other than that, no negative issues.
Jon.
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Early production Carter 255s.
Change to Carter 266s with serial number 778380.
Changed again to Carter 280s with serial number 827801.
Jon.
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The problem for the OP in trying to use a Carter BB-1 is that his original UU-2 is a TWO-BARREL! The Carter BB-1 is a single-barrel.
Jon.
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What vehicle?
Jon.
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No.
Jon.
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Problem has been solved, somehow a small piece of thread tape got stuck up inside the valve hole at the shut off and prevented the valve from seating when the float would push it up. Thanks for your comments, I check the forum regularly and enjoy reading the comments. Thoffs
(Opinion) thread tape should NOT be used with a fuel system. At the very best, it does NO good; and at its worst........well, you can answer that.
I once made a comment to a customer that thread tape should only be used with plumbing steel pipes that was overheard by my Dad, who was a pretty good plumber. His comment "no respectable plumber would ever use that ****".
I thought I had finally found a legitimate use for the tape a few years ago. Each spring, I set out 25 ~ 50 trees on our place, and I used the tape to flag the small trees to make them more visible when mowing. But then the deer started eating the tape, and I doubt the tape helps the digestive system of the deer; so I still have yet to find a legitimate use for the tape.
Jon.
Don't try to use the vehicle in cooler weather.
Vapor lock beats the straight eight.
in Buick - Post War
Posted · Edited by carbking (see edit history)
Mike - at 8500' you need MAJOR recalibration of the carburetor. Are you certain you have vapor lock, or is there a possibility that some recalibration might be needed.
In round numbers, at 8500' compared to standard carburetor calibration from the factory:
Idle fuel reduced by 15~18 percent
Cruise fuel reduced by 18~22 percent
W.O.T. fuel reduced by 22~28 percent
Jon.