• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by carbking

  1. Correct. Chevrolet 6 between 1934 and 1936 (needed one more picture to determine exact year). Rebuilding kits are readily available. Would give some serious consideration to acquiring a different carb. The Carter is a decent carb (later Carter W-1's were excellent); HOWEVER my information says your model 77 is a 268 CID engine, and this carb was designed for a 206 CID. Think you might be down on power. Jon.
  2. Here in central Missouri, we have, at the pumps: Regular - 87 AKI octane, with 10 percent ethanol Regular+ - 88 AKI octane, mixture of Regular 87 (10 percent), and Premium 93 AKI (90 percent) Premium - 93 AKI octane, no ethanol I thought that the lower grades had no ethanol, but the statements on the pumps were misleading, so I asked. According to the refiner, the premium gas is basically available for the older collector cars (many that do not need premium). The 87, with ethanol, is available for those that want cheap. As far as is the ethanol "cleaner" than non-ethanol, the newest EPA studies, which according to the internet aren't that new, but were politically pigeon-holed for several years, clearly show that the E-10 is dirtier than E-0. Much as I dislike efi, efi is what is responsible for the cleaner air in our cities, not the presence of ethanol in the fuel. I still prefer a carburetor, but there is absolutely no doubt the efi is much cleaner. Our grandchildren will curse this generation for using ethanol. I finally gave up and started using E-10 in most of my carbureted engines. Most of the small engines do not have sufficient compression to take advantage of the octane in the premium (non-ethanol) fuel. I use more fuel, but still cheaper as the E-10 is about $1.25/gallon cheaper than the E-0. So far, the only GOOD thing I have found (other than cheap) about the E-10, is my John Deere (fuel injected) L & G starts sputtering if I try to mow in sunshine when the ambient is 90 degrees F. or higher when using E-10. It runs fine on E-0 at ambient above 100 degrees F. "Honey, I have to come in for awhile, the mower is giving me problems in the heat", I'll finish the yard when it cools off"! Jon.
  3. I looked in vain for a forum to sell tools. If I picked the wrong forum, would a moderator please move to the correct forum - Jon, Selling some miscellaneous shop tools, all working, that I no longer use: (1) DiAcro commercial tubing bender - will bend copper, steel, brass, aluminum tubing, even solid steel rod from 1/4 inch through 1/2 inch. With tooling for different radii. (2) Homemade hydraulic flaring tool to use with the bender when making fuel/brake lines. (3) Penske timing light (4) Two Penske engine analyzers, one portable, one shelf mount (5) Allen diagnostic oscilloscope (6) Compression gauge (7) WORKING Black & Decker valve seat tool from the 1920's in the original wooden box, really a nice addition to your "antique" garage. (8) A lot of other miscellaneous tools that belonged to my Dad WILL NOT SHIP! If you pick it up, can demonstrate that it works, and both of us are happy. The tubing bender and flaring tool are going to require a truck. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). This phone is a land-line, does not accept texts. Located in Eldon, Missouri. Eldon is located on a 4 lane divided highway (US 54) 30 miles southwest of Jefferson City. Approximately 150 miles from either Kansas City or St. Louis, and approximately 100 miles from Springfield, Missouri. Jon.
  4. In the 1970's, Zenith Fuel Systems designed and sold an aftermarket carb specifically for the Ford Model A. The calibrations were the same as original, except for using the modern externally adjustable main metering jet instead of the original with the dash adjustment. We were (and still are) WD for Zenith, and we sold quite a few of these. There was a LOT of buying resistance, due to the lack of the dash adjustment; but once someone actually bought one, most admitted the dash adjustment was unnecessary. While I cannot be completely certain, without knowing the tag number, the carbs pictured by the OP appear to be these replacements. The tag number of the replacement was 13922. Jon.
  5. Ben - the 1957 design has an internal auxiliary air valve that is spring-loaded; same general principal as the Q-Jet. One piece of trivia you are not apt to ever see in factory or aftermarket documentation, is that the 4-GC with the auxiliary air valve uses the same spring as the Q-Jet air valve; and the adjustment is 1/2 turn past "touching" at an ambient of 65~70 degrees F. John D - your comments reinforce the idle tube increase work around. When the engine is warming up, the choke is still partially engaged, thus the mixture is slightly richer. If the vehicle is on an incline, the fuel level in the bowl may be slightly higher, thus making the mixture slightly richer. Changing the adjustment of the secondary engagement would make no difference at WOT. The engine needs slightly more fuel to eliminate the hesitation. The idle mixture control screws are greatly misunderstood; THEY DO NOT ADJUST THE MIXTURE! The idle mixture is adjusted internally by the orifices in the idle tubes, the idle air bleeds, and the idle bypass (also air). The mixture screws control the VOLUME of pre-determined mixture. Thus opening up the idle tubes actually DOES richen the mixture. The hesitation when turning right is a different issue, and a factory fix was issued by Rochester. Those who had their vehicles serviced at the dealership had the factory fix applied. When we were still restoring carbs, about 1 out of 3 had the patch, even those that had been "rebuilt". Apparently, the commercial rebuilders did not read the Rochester bulletins. Jon.
  6. Ben - the WOT from a stop sign was a minor issue from day 1. Remember there were many changes in engine size and carburetor design during this period. The modification of the idle tubes is a work-around, as is advancing the static timing a few degrees. The actual problem is that the 1956 Rochester has no auxiliary air valve. For 1957, Rochester added the auxiliary valve to the secondary. On the 1956 carb, WOT activates the secondary. On the 1957 carb, WOT opens the secondary throttle plates, but the auxiliary air valve prevents air from flowing in the secondary until a pre-determined vacuum is present in the intake. This solved the issue. Opening the throttle maybe only half way for 1/2 a second and then flooring the throttle might also work, maybe worth a try. Jon.
  7. It isn't normal, and (no offense meant) do not see how it can occur. Is it possible the pump squirt is there, but the vacuum present when the engine is running pulls the squirt through such that you do not see it? Again, possibly repeat this test with a couple of observers with younger eyes than mine watching. Lots of possibilities causing bog. Top ones: (1) electronic distributor conversion (2) vacuum advance defective (3) timing out of adjustment (4) idle adjustment TOO RICH (5) accelerator pump not functioning One other which is very remote, but can occur: missing or incorrect pump discharge valve. Jon.
  8. Jim - the carb in the link is correct for 1964 Buick 300 CID automatic transmission. I would suggest disassembly and rebuilding with a currently produced rebuilding kit. It appears the original Rochester velumoid gaskets were used (observe corrosion beads around gasket surfaces). Velumoid had a high sulphur content. If the original gaskets were used, PROBABLY the original type accelerator pump was used, and the neopreme won't last 3 weeks in modern fuel. Since it has obviously been rebuilt (Delco did a great job for the fuel then use), you won't need one of our kits; just one of the cheap ones from your FLAPS. Another one with a 60 day warranty is 272055405463 and it still has the original tag. Jon.
  9. Ben - you hit on the issue - how quickly the different chokes open. Older automatic transmissions can create more load on the engine. The older electric chokes (I have been told there are now adjustable ones available) would go completely off in 45 seconds to one and one half minutes. Since the choke is now off, the fast idle circuit is out of play and if one stops at a stop sign BEFORE the engine is warm, it will stall due to too slow an idle. Since the engine is still cold, it REQUIRES choke to keep it running when restarting. If one waits 15 minutes for the coil to cool, it will start; but many do not wish to wait. Note in my previous post the reference to two cups of coffee? That gives the engine an opportunity to warm, as well as the transmission juices, and stalling does not occur. Once the engine is warm, there is no difference in the function of the electric or the hot air choke. Personally, 2 of my 3 collector vehicles have been UPGRADED to manual chokes! And the one that came originally with a dogmatic transmission has been UPGRADED to a manual transmission! But I believe keying the opening rate of the choke to the temperature of the engine is a good idea on older vehicles with automatics. Jon
  10. Mark - the 1932 Buick 50 used a TWO-BARREL updraft. Jon.
  11. Very seldom do I disagree with NTX5467, but in this case I must. First, the internal choke pull offs virtually never give problems, and when they do the issue is easy to fix. If an issue arises, it will virtually always be a result of the heat tube inside the manifold burning through, and raw exhaust flowing through the tube into the choke housing and causing either a burr or slight warpage in the cylinder housing the pull off piston. To repair: (1) Remove the choke housing (2) If possible remove the choke pull off piston (3) Measure the O.D. of the expansion plug sealing the lower end of the piston cylinder (4) Go to your flaps and acquire two (never hurts to have an extra), also a small sheet of 1200 grit emery cloth (5) Drill a small hole in the center of the expansion plug in the housing, and pry it out (6) Measure the I.D. of the cylinder (7) Got to the hardware store and acquire a piece of dowel rod the next size smaller (8) Get out your special carburetor rebuilding tool (a.k.a. hack saw) and cut a small groove lengthways in the dowel rod (9) Carefully wrap a piece of the emery cloth around the rod, with the ends folded in the groove (10) Using a variable speed drill, slowly ream the cylinder (11) Clean the piston, re-install the piston, and check that it moves freely (12) Once the piston moves freely, install a new expansion plug, and peen it into place (13) MOST IMPORTANT -- FIX THE HEAT TUBE IN THE MANIFOLD!!!!! Now, as to the later carbs with the external choke pull off. Personally, I have NEVER liked them, as the divorced choke has to compensate for the mass of the connecting rod, placing additional tension on the choke coil. Better than electric, but still inferior to the integral choke pull off. HOWEVER Today there is an additional problem. The divorced chokes and choke pull offs before about 1980 have been discontinued!!!!! We bought the complete inventory of P & D, as well as a lot of Hygrade, and a couple of other brands. Walker still has a decent selection, but choke pull offs in the era are disappearing, and divorced chokes have mostly disappeared. A very few are being reproduced off shore (NOS does NOT mean new off shore!) for big block Corvettes, RA GTO's etc. As to electrics: I learned this lesson the hard way. Discovered the burned out exhaust tube on the wife's vehicle, and was busier than I should be, and installed the electric. Twice, it stalled with her at a stop sign 3 blocks from the house, would NOT restart as the choke was now wide open, and she had to walk. Removed the manifold, fixed the exhaust tube, re-installed the hot air choke, and the car performed normally........and she was happy! If you must use an electric with an older automatic transmission, start the vehicle, and go back in the house for a couple of cups of coffee. By the time you consume these, the engine should be at normal temperature and the electric choke won't hurt you. Or you could always upgrade to a manual transmission! Jon.
  12. Assuming the rebuilt Rochester is correct for your car, it will: (A) fit, without the adapter, the linkage mods, the aftermarket air cleaner, and possibly transmission linkage mods AND a Holley guru to tune it! (B) produce more power (C) use less fuel (D) be more reliable (E) have better driveability Jon.
  13. Ben - one other thing that comes to mind. I am assuming you still have points/condenser in this car. We have had dozens, perhaps hundreds - I have completely lost count, of customers with issues like this when using a certain points replacement module. Often, re-installing points and condenser (new old stock, NOT new off-shore!) solves the issue. If you are using that conversion, an alternator is mandatory. Jon.
  14. Ben - the idle tubes are very easy to modify, albeit somewhat expensive for doing it the first time, because of the initial cost of the tools. You will need: (A) drill set of numbered drills #61~80 (B) pin vise I just checked the MSC website. They have several sets of 61~80 drills from about $30. to well over $100. for the set. A couple of sets around $45. which would be good. They also have a number of pin vises in the $10 ~ $15. range. Get one of the hand-held pin vises. Use the number drills to find the current value of the idle tubes (guessing about 0.032). Whatever it is, just add 0.002, find the appropriate bit, and using the hand held pin vise, ream out both idle tubes. This will require resetting the idle mixture control screws. You will now have a richer mixture, as opposed to a larger quantity of a leaner mixture. The 4-GC is STILL a wonderful carburetor. But it does need to be re-calibrated for todays fuel. If you do not wish to purchase the tools, maybe you have a friend in the gas furnace business. The most common use for these drills is when converting a furnace from propane to natural gas. Jon.
  15. How do you kill the engine on purpose using the accelerator petal? You can easily fabricate a dual quad air cleaner by modifying one of the repro Ford units. The big oval air cleaner has been reproduced three ways: (A) bottom punched for Ford 2x4, (B) bottom punched for Ford 3x2, (C) bottom not punched. Jon
  16. Same thoughts. These carbs, when properly rebuilt, are good for 100k miles assuming normal maintenance of the fuel and air filters. Some of the more reliable auto parts ever built. Jon.
  17. If you buy an older rebuilt carburetor, HOPE that it has a leather accelerator pump. If it does, a few drops of light machine oil, and good as new. If it is synthetic, and more than a couple of years old, it will not hold up in E-10. The only reason Rochester went to the synthetic pump was cheap. Carter never did. Jon.
  18. Very first Chickasha, Oklahoma "early cars" swap meet. We set up at the meet, which was grossly over-hyped. Turned out to be a glorified Ford Model A and Model T meet. Didn't sell a solitary item; but: Walking around, found an older gentleman (older then, probably younger than I am now ) with two tables of "rebuilt" Ford carburetors. 'Nuff said about his rebuilding skills, but there were two new old stock "odd" to him carbs setting by themselves. Each was tagged "non-Ford, $1. One was a Marvel for a 1930 Pontiac (I was carburetion tech advisor for POCI at the time). The other was a Zenith 105DC (Stutz). Needless to say I did not try to haggle the price! Jon.
  19. Airy - if you are making these to sell, they should sell well. Between Carter and Rochester, among various makes of vehicles, there are more than 400 different of these plates used originally. Some vehicles absolutely require them. I think only a dozen or so different have been reproduced. We have made quite a few out of 0.030 stainless (think restaurant going out of business ) steel simply by putting the stainless between two pieces of half inch plywood (support), bolting it together, drawing the pattern on the top piece of plywood, and cutting it out. Many of the vehicles that required these use Carter AFB carbs. Jon.
  20. Steve - the letter(s) and numbers should be together. The Rayfield type E has the float with the fuel valve going through the center. I have information on the type E. This one is not a type E. Jon.
  21. The Rayfield carb is a mystery to me. I think I have every piece of Rayfield literature printed up to and including 1919. All of the Rayfields to that date have the cylindrical float with a hole in the center, and the fuel valve going through the float. A pair of "float followers" attached to a rocker assembly cause the fuel valve to be pressed down as the float raises. The carb in the picture appears to have an offset fuel valve. Can you insert a mirror between the carb and the block to see if there are any casting markings on that side of the carb. Typically, Rayfield would have a letter (or 2) followed by a number. Examples: A-2, GL-3, etc. I have been looking for later Rayfield material for the last 48 years, and found nothing. Jon.
  22. Exactly why teflon should NEVER be used. Teflon is a wonderful lubricant. Over the years I have thrown away a number carburetor castings which were cracked, and still had teflon thread residue. New male fittings were available for these, off the shelf. I understand that occasionally, especially on older vehicles, new fittings MIGHT not be available off the shelf. Some 40 plus years ago, we paid a tool and die maker to fabricate special tools to allow us to machine new inverted flare fittings. And I shutter to think how much I have tied up in special thread taps and dies for various non-standard threads. Not impossible, and sometimes a bit of money spend on tooling saves a bunch of money. Not that hard to acquire new fittings. Jon.
  23. Tape? Tape? Oh yes, once I thought I had found a legitimate use for Teflon tape. My Dad used to love to mow grass, and as he grew older his eyesight deteriorated somewhat; and I had just set out over 100 saplings. So I tied the tape (it comes in a number of bright colors) onto the saplings so Dad could see them easier. It worked for about 2 mowings, and then the deer ate the tape. So I still have yet to find a legitimate use for Teflon tape. Might be able to use it for ribbons on Christmas presents. Book markers? It must be good for something? On the serious side: if the fittings are clean, started properly, and not overtightened; THEY WON'T LEAK! Jon.
  24. For those that insist on using sealants on fuel fittings, we make an excellent selection of carburetor rebuilding kits. Jon