carbking

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Everything posted by carbking

  1. The sleeve is pressed into a "blind" hole, it cannot be driven out. The way to remove the sleeve is using a boring bar, with cuts of about 0.003 until the sleeve is paper-thin, and then it can be collapsed, and removed. THIS IS A MACHINE SHOP OPERATION! Where to locate one? Don't know. Still have hundreds of sleeves for other vehicles, but sold out of those for Buick. Jon.
  2. I guess there was no "autocorrect" in 1923. For those who do not normally deal with 'teens carburetors, the text describes a Stromberg type G air-valve carburetor, and refers to the cut-a-way in figure 8.The carburetor in the cut-a-way (figure 8), is a Stromberg type M (one can see the M-3 on the casting) which is a plain tube carburetor.This reference is in a U.S. Army training manual on ignition and carburetion printed in 1923. Jon
  3. Take a look at this reference: US Army textbook training EDIT: site doesn't permit emojis in the title. There should be a in the title. Jon.
  4. Not a front. Single carb from 1942 40 series. Jon.
  5. One never knows where one is going to find really good obscure material This listing is for an International Correspondence Schools Carburetor & Fuel Pump textbook. Written in 1940, it has virtually complete coverage of major carburetor specifications, rebuilding, and adjustments of U.S. automobile carburetors from 1932~1940. The only exception seems to be Johnson (maybe ICS figured Johnson a hopeless case??? ) Also missing is 1932 and 1933 Buick, although 1934 and newer Marvel are covered. There are chapters on Carter, Chandler-Groves, Detroit Lubricator, Marvel, Stromberg, Tillotson, and Zenith carburetors; Delco, Detroit Lubricator, and Sisson automatic chokes, fuel pumps, and applications and calibrations tables. By far the best information I have seen anywhere on Chandler-Groves, Detroit Lubricator, and Tillotson carburetors. Excellent information on the other makes. This is a paper-back book, 8 1/2 x 11 inches, 70 pages. The cover (paper) is rough, with missing paper and taped. The interior pages are excellent. The book has been re-stapled. Book is very well illustrated. One copy only. Price postpaid within the 48 contiguous United States - $65.00 VISA, MasterCard, bank or postal money orders accepted. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.
  6. Frank - those were only 2 examples. Parents had a 1982 Buick with 3 failures in 82k miles, and a Chevrolet Citation (don't remember the year) that had 2 before the Missouri salt and cinders rusted it out (long before 100k). There are others. Knock on wood, but 1996 Ranger with 115k so far has only had 2, and a 2014 Explorer at 40k hasn't had any. With the exception of the Buick & Citation of my parents, have no personal experience with makes other than Ford. Like I stated, if you like them fine; but my track record with electronics is lousy! Jon.
  7. Most of the better auto parts stores will have a clip assortment, and sell individual clips. EDIT: just looked at the picture. What you have circled is the throttle bracket, not a throttle clip; disregard comment about parts stores. For some reason, the bracket was not considered a part of a "rebuilt carburetor", and MANY are looking for them. Additionally, there were hundreds of different ones. You would need to supply the tag number of your carburetor. And just for the record, because only 1 out of every 4 or 5 carbs that originally had a bracket will still have one, often the bracket alone is as much or more than a carb with the bracket. Jon.
  8. Interesting thread, and the OP makes some good points about electronics. However: I seem to bring out the worst in anything electronic.😠 Joe made the comment about the government looking for 100k miles without failure. I have yet to experience 100k miles in ANY electronic ignitioned vehicle that had no electronic ignition failures. Two examples: (1) 1979 Ford van 440k miles on original engine - 13 electronic ignition failures. I carried TWO in the glove box! (2) 1979 Ford Mustang, special order, always garaged, never seen snow, seen rain once 65k original miles, now on third electronic ignition (total failures) On all newer personal vehicles with original electronics (includes immediate family and company) we AVERAGE a mean mileage to failure of about 30k miles with the electronics! I won't try to convince anyone to stay with points, but personally, Hollywood will be covered by glaciers (think of the cliche) before I personally convert points to electronics. Professionally: We get many calls daily of enthusiasts with "carburetor issues". Generally, these are idle or hesitation. If idle. our first question used to be "have you done a compression test?". Now our first question is "have you installed a p-conversion"? If the answer is yes, we suggest the upgrade to points and condenser as a "test". At least 50 per cent of those with "carburetor idle issues" and the pertronix call back to tell me points and condenser SOLVED the "carburetor issue". So if you wish to use it, go ahead, but if an older vehicle that originally had a generator, do yourself a favor and upgrade to an alternator when you do the p-con.
  9. Adapters are readily available, and have been for 40 years. Check with the better supply houses. Jon.
  10. The ONLY upgrade to the original carburetor for a mostly stock engine, might be a custom dual quad using an original Buick intake, and somewhat smaller original Carter carbs. (Opinion). Of course, you could always install one of the shiny new clones with the larger air intake, but to make it work correctly, you would need to replace the engine with a bowtie 350. Jon.
  11. Ed - see that you figured out the kit reference. 5632 - the manufacturers of carburetors did NOT publish the CFM of virtually ALL original equipment carburetors. There was no reason to do so. As far as CFM for aftermarket carburetors ???????? You might find this link interesting: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carbshop_carbsizesandCFM.htm Possibly the most knowledgeable person who ever lived concerning CFM was Mark Twain. He once made the comment "figures don't lie, but liars figure"! As an example, one well-known company that did not have a 600 CFM carburetor simply renumbered one of their 625 CFM carburetors and called it a 600 CFM. As far as your Carter is concerned, when Carter was bought in about 1985, the new parent company ordered a lot of stuff to be discarded. Much of the data was discarded into my van to save. Included in this were the Carter flow tests. Yes, your carburetor was flow tested, but NOT for maximum capacity. Carter was interested in the A/F ratios at different values of vacuum, which is why the carburetors were flow tested. And, no offense meant to you, but your comment in your other thread about how you look and how you ski is spot on; but you will find it can be a double-edged sword when it comes to automobiles. How you look with a lot of shiny new components in the engine compartment which don't help the performance of the engine.....................can be a major turn-off to some. But there is an old cliche about beauty......................... Jon.
  12. Nice of Hemmings to advertise for me for free The last number on each line in the referenced link is our rebuilding kit number. I was unaware this list existed. Jon
  13. Is the plunger a ball? If so Grose-jet Jon.
  14. Classic's shop was closed for them by the gentleman with the long beard and the scythe. It will happen to us all. Jon
  15. Carbking is NOT strongly prejudiced against Marvel carbs, and I did not tell John to scrap it, nor did he mention to scrap it. My words were that I didn't want it at any price, even free. WHY??? I am currently several years past normal retirement age, and have more than 150,000 carburetors; I simply do not need more. But one issue to consider is that many enthusiasts of vehicles that used Marvels probably already have an original, and most will have two or three spares. There simply is not the market for the early brass carbs that existed 50 years ago. As far as Marvel carbs (any many other early carbs) are concerned: If one is building a numbers-matching original showcar or a museum piece; then the original carb is the way to go, regardless of its quality. For a "driver", there are better carbs, actually, MUCH better carbs, many of which can be acquired at a fraction of the cost to make an original functional. And there is always the enthusiast that enjoys trying to make the original work; I have no issue with that whatsoever, and manufacture rebuilding kits to help. But a few facts (not just my opinions): There were more than 600 manufacturers of carburetors in the USA alone. But of that group that were in business in the 'teens and 'twenties; only Carter, Holley, Stromberg, and Zenith still existed in the 1950's as suppliers for cars & trucks. The merged Marvel/Schebler brand, and Tillotson also still existed for small engine, as well as tractor and some industrial engines. Rochester started to produce carburetors in 1949. Why did the rest cease to exist? Much of the following is speculation on my part, not provable facts: Transportation and communication improved dramatically. In the case of Marvel (this is a fact) virtually ALL of their customers were headquartered within 50 miles of the Marvel factory in Flint, Michigan. Where was Buick's headquarters? Many of the early carbs were designed (and advertised) as "automatic" carburetors. Marvel and Schebler were two of the biggest using air valve springs, which fatigue over time. This type of carb never worked as well as the "plain tube" design used by companies such as Stromberg and Zenith. Lots of really unusual ideas were tried by some of the early carburetor companies. As an example, one well-known early carburetor manufacturer ran electricity to a heating element INSIDE THE CARBURETOR BOWL to preheat the fuel! Some ideas just didn't pan out. Of course timing can always be a factor when a company ceases to exist, example Stromberg USA died when their last major customer, G.M.C., stopped production of their own V-6 and started using corporate Chevrolet V-8's in 1975. But back to Marvel, and to give them their due respect: of all of the early manufacturers, Marvel was among the top 5 or so in customer service. Marvel issued excellent manuals, as well as service bulletins (few have probably seen the service bulletins, as they are quite rare today). Marvel also offered the mechanic an excellent tool set with specialized tools for working on Marvel carbs (and they ALL need work ) and Marvel offered a number of different cabinets of spare parts. Too bad the basic design was much less efficient than their competitors. But since I threw roses, some "stones" are also in order: while many of the early carburetor manufacturers totally ignored S.A.E. specification suggestions (Zenith immediately comes to mind), Marvel carried proprietary specifications to an art. The flange arrangement of most Marvels is such that no other make can easily be adapted. With a few exceptions, the only parts interchangeable from one Marvel to another are the body screws and fiber washers. For this reason, the only aftermarket company of which I am aware that made repair parts for Marvels back in the day was Standard Hygrade. But this probably hurt Marvel in the long run, as mechanics were forced to buy parts only from Marvel, and because of the lack of interchangeability, stock ridiculous amounts of spares. But from a design point of view, the spacer block/air valve of the Marvel simply cannot atomize the fuel as efficiently as carburetors with a venturi. Oh, and John, your carb is either a 1926~1928 Buick Master or a late 1927/8 GMC T-40 or T-50 using the Buick Master engine. Jon.
  16. Scroll to the bottom of the link: Brass float repair Jon.
  17. Looking to buy a tap made by Bay State (trying to complete a vintage tap & die set). Size needed is 1/4 x 32. Prefer 4 flute, but 3 flute would be acceptable. Prefer plug tap, but bottom tap would be acceptable. MUST say Bay State on the tap. I have plenty of 1/4 x 32 taps which are not Bay State to use. This one will probably never be used. Jon.
  18. Two German type PHH side-draft carbs. Restoration started by the shop from whom we acquired them many years ago. Listed on Ebay 362633274803 with an entry price of $250. and a BIN of $500. Jon.
  19. Send me an email with the carb numbers, and which shafts you need for each. I might have decent used ones. Will look. Jon.
  20. The 1/4 inch should work well. Check the numbers on the Q-Jets before practice. Some of them are worth more than the dual quad carbs! Jon.
  21. Bernie - Guessing that he is running the Holley 2300 through an adapter also, which would make it run worse than the original two-barrel. Even though rated 350 CFM, the effective CFM through the adapter would be less than the original. Jon.
  22. Assuming you have the original two-barrel manifold, you will get BETTER driveability, power, and fuel economy from an original two-barrel than you will with the e-clone running through an adapter. But your call. Jon.
  23. "Notsoeasyouts" often work well in steel; VIRTUALLY NEVER IN BRASS! A carburetor is a perfect example of a Galvanic cell (two dissimilar metals in the presence of a liquid). In this case one has aluminum, brass, and gasoline. Ion flow takes place and beads of corrosion build up in the threads, making the jets difficult to remove. There is a method that always works, once perfected; BUT IT SHOULD BE PERFECTED ON A SERIES OF JUNK CARBURETORS! Bill of materials: (1) Set of left-handed drill bits THAT YOU HAVE DELIBERATELY DULLED (2) Reversible drill (3) Empty 5-gallon bucket (4) Piece of 1-inch foam rubber (for the bottom of the bucket) (5) Acetylene torch with jewelers tip Procedure: (1) Fill the bucket approximately 3/4 full with water (2) Light the torch, and adjust to a pencil flame (3) Rotate the point of the flame on the periphery of the jet, always moving in a circle, always on the brass. (4) When the color of the flame changes from blue to yellow-green, drop the casting in the bucket of water. (5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 (6) Spray liberally with your favorite brand of penetrating oil. (7) Using the left-handed drill bit of the appropriate size and the reversible drill, gouge the jet, and it will spin out. It should be noted here that using this procedure with a stubborn jet to begin with, will never allow the jet to lose its slot. Not that I am advocating reusing jets, but a screwdriver is easier than the drill. AGAIN, PERFECT THIS PROCEDURE ON CARBS THAT YOU CAN THROW AWAY! Why it works: The heat will burn the oxygen from the corrosion molecules thereby reducing the physical space they occupy in the threads. This allows a good penetrating oil to lubricate the threads, and the left-handed turning action will spin out the jet. And yes, I HAVE removed literally hundreds of jets using this method. CAVIAT TO THOSE THAT APPLY ANYTHING TO ANYTHING: This is not meant as a generic fix, rather a fix in working with the Carter AFB castings. The melting temperature of aluminum (the base metal of the Carter AFB casting) is maybe twice the melting temperature of zinc alloy. Thus, if one tries this method on a zinc-alloy body, one must be extremely careful. The method will still work, but there is zero margin for error (i.e. the flame slipping from the jet onto the casting). EDIT: For those that think maybe the notsoeasyout would work instead of the drill, consider: the force to "grab" the jet applied by the notsoeasyout is virtually sideways, thus pushing the soft brass against the side of the casting, and creating additional friction, whereas the force exerted by the drill is virtually in the same plane as the drill, not creating additional friction. But try it if you will. I was never successful, but it might work for others. Jon.
  24. The power valve and the economizer valve are two different names for an enrichment valve. Some call it a power valve, as it is opened generally under wide open throttle to enrich the mixture for power. Some call it an economizer valve, as it is normally closed, allowing smaller main jets to deliver better economy at "cruise". EDIT: found this thread via search, and read the last post first. Assuming you have the original Holley carb, the economizer valve is probably not the culprit. The Holley design has the outlet for the economizer valve dumping directly into the throttle area. If it fails, generally will be so much extra fuel the engine will not run. Not saying it couldn't be the valve, but Ford ignition is much more likely to be the issue. Jon.