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shorttimer

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  1. How bad is the rust in the Custom coupe? If it is isolated to the rockers/fenders, could you drive the Idaho car while you do metal work on the Custom coupe, using the other cars for parts? As stated by others, the Invicta Customs are low production cars and the beige interior is pretty uncommon, so it would be great to see that car back on the road in any condition. At the same point, taking the Idaho car off the road deprives you of the 'old car experience' that can be a critical motivator, so I would be inclined to pursue your option #2 if space and funds will allow for it. Regardless of the route you choose, '60s are great cars and enjoyable to drive, no matter the model or trim level, so you almost can't go wrong. If the original upholstery is still intact in your Custom coupe, I would love to see a picture of it. I have never seen the factory beige leather interior in person. Most of the surviving cars I have seen have the blue or maroon, or have been redone with vinyl that does not mimic the glow of the original color.
  2. The location of the two mounting holes were cast into the underside of the Dash cover. They will be visible when you remove the clock.
  3. The bucket seat Invicta Custom coupes will have a three-digit trim code that ends in "6" on the firewall data plate (located on the firewall, above the master cylinder). The '60 coupes are really cool cars, even without the bucket seat interior. If the original metal-back bucket seats are missing, they are typically very expensive to replace. And not very comfortable if you are over 6' tall. A bench seat should be much easier to source. It would be great to see that car pulled out of the weeds and put back on the road. The smile it puts on your face with a bench seat interior will be just as broad as the one you will have with bucket seats. Good luck with the car and please let the group know if there is any way we can help.
  4. The attached picture is from the June 1960 issue of Motor Trend. Tower top clamps are visible on the radiator hose and spring clamps are visible on the fuel lines and the brake booster vacuum lines. For the sake of technical accuracy, the 1960 Chassis and Parts Book lists both worm type and tower top clamps for radiator hose and heater hose applications, so from a judging perspective both should be acceptable without deduction.
  5. Here is the link to the B59 thread. You will need to log in to the forum and gallery to view the pictures: http://www.buick-59.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=7027&p=59793&hilit=Speedometer#p59793 Here is the text from one of my posts to that thread: Doing a little google searching this week, I came across a speedometer shop about 10 minutes from my house that sounded like they knew their way around older cars (Gail's Speedometer in Costa Mesa), so I figured I should stop by with my parts and see what they had to say. Mike at Gail's couldn't have been more helpful and proceeded to give me a crash course on the GM ribbon/drum speedometer. Mike immediately identified the previous repair on my drum and explained how the problems with these units arise. According to Mike, the magnets used in these units were probably stronger than they needed to be, and over time they have a tendency to pull the drum toward the cable end of the speedo head (the right side of the image below). Image The movement of the drum can occur two ways: 1) the drum moves along the spindle at its center, or 2) heat and friction over time physically erode the end of the spindle (shown below) which rests in the spinning magnet assembly . Image With enough movement, the magnet will contact the drum, resulting in the groaning noise and inaccurate readings many of us have experienced. Mike explained he has two ways to solve this problem: 1) mill down the edge of the assembly which contains the magnet (visible in my first post), creating more space between it and the drum and/or 2) realigning the drum on its central spindle. Gail's will do both of these and recalibrate the unit for $100. Unfortunately, Mike said he had a several week backlog before he could get to my unit. Of course there is also a third option, which is to get a new drum. Since my drum had already been repaired, Mike suggested I try and realign it myself and gave me a few pointers. For anyone still following along at home, here is what I did (note - my car is a '60, so keep that in mind if things look a little different): 1: Remove the two screws shown below (not the best picture...) which secure the drum to the head assembly, then remove the drum and bracket. Image 2): Carefully detach the tension spring from the bracket and separate the bracket from the drum. Make sure your hands are clean and not oily before touching the drum, as you don't want fingerprints on the painted surface of the drum. 3): Stand the drum up on a hard and level surface, with the spring end (shown below) pointing upwards. Image 4): Here's the trial and error part - use a small hammer or other object and tap the end of the drum spindle, pushing it towards the opposite end of the drum. You only need to move the spindle a very small amount (likely less than 0.1"), so go SLOWLY and make sure you contact the rod squarely, as you don't want to bend the spindle or strike the drum. 5): Reassemble the drum and spin the magnet assembly to check for interference. Make sure you put the bump stop on the correct side of the end bracket when you reassemble, or your speedo won't spin. If the magnet assembly hits the drum, repeat step 4. I probably did this 5-6 times. 6): Once there is no interference, you would ideally check the accuracy of the speedometer on a bench tester. I don't have one, so I skipped this steep. (You could also put the speedo in the car and road check the accuracy against a speedometer app on your phone - what I have done since) 7): There is a jewel in the center of the magnet assembly where the drum spindle rests. Apply lubricant here (I applied MMO using a small awl) as shown below. Image 8 ): Re-assemble and install. Don't forget to reconnect the tension spring and to get the bump stop in the correct place. I also polished up the plastic lense and cleaned up the rest of the cluster's components. Image It is probably worth it to pull the speedo cable and lube it while you can easily get to it. Mine was really noisy and the reason I started this project in the first place. Don't forget to check for kinks while you have it out. 9) Put it back in the car and take it for a test drive. Image I am happy to report that not only is my cable now quiet, but the speedo works smoothly in silence and is much more accurate than it was before. Once I had the cluster disassembled, the spindle realignment probably took me no more than a half hour. You could also save yourself the time and send your unit and $100 to Mike at Gail's or the shop in Jeff's thread (I think it was Valley Speedo in El Monte). Unfortunately, it is only a matter of time before the magnet pulls the drum out of alignment again and I need to repeat the process, but I hope to have picked up a NOS drum by that point. If this turns out to be just a short-lived fix, I will post a follow on update. Shorttimer Heading for the Highway Posts: 150 Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:03 pm Location: OC, CA
  6. The issue is likely with the speedometer drum. The rotating magnet pulls the drum closer to it over time, causing it to register a higher speed. It will eventually make contact and bounce the drum around. It is a fairly simple fix to get it back within range. I documented my workaround over on the B59 forum several years ago. I will look it up and post a link when I get a chance.
  7. Congratulations! They are great cars, especially with low mileage. Looking forward to seeing and hearing more about it.
  8. Good luck with the search. These are out there if you look hard enough. Verde Green is one of my favorite 1960 colors. Unfortunately, Verde Green and Lucerne Green were not 'recommended' or 'acceptable' factory color choices on the 4867 for 1960. As such there was no green interior offered for the 4867. But it could be an attractive combination.
  9. I went with 8.20 x 15 BFGs with the 2.5" whitewall on my Invicta. Not technically correct size-wise, but I figured the wider tread section would be beneficial, especially on SoCal highways. They are taller by about 0.5" than the 8.00 x 15 Cokers, so the car sits a little high if the tires are fully inflated. Here they are: I considered the Dual 90s, but thought the 3" might look too wide. You could also consider the US Royals with the 2.75" whitewalls. Here they are on Tom Sidoti's exceptional '59 4867: http://1fine59.com/?p=349
  10. I'm moving this weekend and look what I just found while packing. Is your adress still the same? I will get it in the mail this next week.
  11. You can't beat freshly turned drums. I am really glad to see you guys using and enjoying this car!
  12. Congrats on the LeSabre! Your body tag indicates a build date of the 4th week in May, 1960. The car was ordered with the somewhat-uncommon option of tinted glass on the windshield only. There is a wealth of knowledge and many '60 owners here on the forum and I'm sure we are all looking forward to following your progress.
  13. Not really for 1960. But you do not see turquoise very often, especially in convertibles.
  14. CARS sells the battery hold down: http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catalog/up-to-1960-buick-group-electrical-battery-clamp-1960-buick-p-5952.html The lens was being reproduced several years ago, but I can't remember who was doing the reproductions. Someone else here may remember.
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