Roger Walling

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Everything posted by Roger Walling

  1. I went to a local car show last week where there was a 1956 corvette on display. It really stood out from the others as it was in the same condition that it was in 1960, a real rat! It has been on blocks since 1959 and the owner has refused to sell it to countless buyers. The new owner paid dearly for the car and absolutely will not "restore" it to showroom condition. It has its own grace, including the burn spot on the hood from a small fire. The serial # is xxxxxxxxx000002.
  2. Ps, If you have any lacquer primer OR Nitro-Stan putty (Lacquer base) on your shelf, THROW IT AWAY It will shrink in a few months after you paint the car and will show BAD sand scratches.
  3. A question asked in a previous post... "But back to the question will base coat be a problem over any of these other coatings ?" You can not put any catalyzed product (paint and activator) over Lacquer. . A lacquer sub coat will expand and move with the heat of the sun and crack the top coat. Ps, If you have any lacquer primer of Nitro-Stan putty (Lacquer base) on your shelf, TRROW IT AWAY It will shrink in a few months after you paint the car and will show BAD sand scratches. Even if the primer has been on the car for 20 years, it will absorb solvents and swell. Shrinking WILL start after your topcoat has been nicely sanded and buffed.
  4. Lamar, your question " I'd like to hear your opinion of how to best acquire the look of an original 50's lacquer job with today?s paint." I think that the original IMRON, when sanded and buffed, looks a lot like Lacquer. I also feel that original 40"s and 50'S look best when painted in enamel. In fact, if your Chrysler 300 does not have the original orange peel, it will lose points at a 300 meet.
  5. While I admire a guy that does all of the work on his car including the painting, with the today?s new paints, I feel that they should be applied by a professional that understands the different paints and has the experience with them. The only thing you see when you look at a car is the paint, and that is what makes or breaks the job. A good painter can hide a lot of sins. I own a body shop and often see where an owner has made the mistake of having his otherwise perfect car painted by an amateur. Many painting errors can be corrected by lots of sanding and buffing, but a professional painter can spot many body errors before the paint goes on. We spray cars for people that do all their own work and consistently spend at least a day re-prepping a car that the owner thought was ready for paint. It is also important to know which paint to use. Dupont has a special clear that goes on like a mirror, without any buffing or orange peel, but it does not have any UV protection in it. Perfect for an indoor show car, but not a driver. If you want to do your own car, at least pay for an experienced painter (not a guy that watched his uncle paint one) to watch over you, it will pay for itself in the long run. (Material for a do over will run into the hundreds of dollars, not to mention days of re-working)
  6. I am planning to buy an early truck and I was wondering if they had a serial number stamped on the frame or they just used the motor number? My concern is if I bought a truck with out a motor, how would I identify it to the registry of motor vehicles? Thanks. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
  7. They are as scarce as hens teeth, but you can get yours rebuilt. I had found a place a few years back. Check Hemmings ads.
  8. In the New England area. I only need the frame section with the serial #, fenders,hood, grill and cowel for a low budjet project. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />
  9. Eric, What do you recomend to clean your whitewall tires? I bought some 6.50/16 radials and they seem to get dirty just looking at them. is there a treatment that I may give them to repell dirt?
  10. Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- a museum quality car. Perhaps I should have said "a hundred point car" ?
  11. Original MSRP: $565 Low Retail Average Retail High Retail $5,500 $7,975 $13,400 NADA Values. Could be more or less, depending on many things. Does not include a museum quality car.
  12. I notice that they will take a personal check. I sent them mine, so don't bother to send yours.
  13. I diden't see a roll of duct tape in the photo, or is that in the owners boating kit?
  14. I would use oven cleaner in the yellow can. It works wonders.
  15. Post deleted by Peter J Heizmann
  16. To those who think that a good original car is worth saving, look at these three 29 Essex?s and tell me which one is more desirable! (The people with the gold make the rules) e-bay numbers, 180004198109 320003477192 190004599677 <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />
  17. You could start with the #3 value of the car and see what you have to buy to put it in that shape. Then you have to decide if your labor is something that you want to put a price on, or if it is going to be a labor of love. If you add the two together and get approximately the same cost as the value, then it is worth saving. There is a reason a car is worth $30,000.00. You probably have that much into it! Any bad chrome can be re-done, its just a matter of how much you want to spend.
  18. I think what you have posted are the schematics for Barry?s Toy Box Trailer.
  19. No disrespect intended, but if you don't have the knowledg to remove it, get some one who knows how to do it. There are a lot of things to do when the pan is dropped.
  20. The 1927 1928 Dodge Brothers sedan on e-bay is defiantly not Rat Rod material. In order to make it presentable for Rat Rod "restoration" you would have to burn it first, in order to give it some texture and class. (It probably would make a better pick up or maybe even a nice stretch limo with an open top for the driver.) Don?t forget the orange paint! (;o)
  21. See if you can buy the camper on the back and you will be half way done with the project! Lots of luck! I am actually thinking of taking an Econoline "Frame and chassis' and building a 1924 open "C" cab truck with weathered used lumber just for the fun of it. The world does not have to be a serious place to live!
  22. I'AM QURIOUS, CAR YOU REGISTER THE SINGLE SEATER MODEL FOR USE ON THE STREET?
  23. The Conspicuity tape is only required on 50% the length, (where required) which means that you could remove every other red and white piece of tape on the sides and not have one complete line the full length of the trailer. This saves on the cost of the tape and (to me) looks better.
  24. Cadillac serial numbers matched the motor numbers and were used for all license, insurance and identification purposes. For 1946, 47 & 48 they were located on the righthand side of the engine crankcase, just above the water pump, and on the right frame side member, behind the motor support.
  25. As usual, Google comes to the rescue once again. The Flxible Company, (1913-1995), was a motorcycle sidecar, funeral car, ambulance, intercity coach and transit bus manufacturing company based in the United States which went out of business in 1995.