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Roger Walling

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Everything posted by Roger Walling

  1. The light still blinks when the signal lights are not flashing.
  2. My first drive and I can't figure what the blinking red light in the upper rt, top of the inst. cluster is for. ?? Also, white light under dash near e brake is flashing 40 lbs. oil pressure, charging ok. Gas gauge new and working, Temp. gauge broke, but new after market gage reads higher than my infrared gauge. (260 V/S 211 degrees) And the one thing that I NEVER expected, the signal, headlights and brake lights ALL work!😮
  3. I theroly cleaned the radiator three times before putting it back on the car. Water went thru it as fast as the hose could run, nice and clean. There is no thermostat. Distribution tube was clean, checked it with a probe. front of head is within 10 degrees of the rear of the head New Water pump. I can't find the dist. specs. I an set at 2 degrees BTTC. I will look for pic's of the shroud and make one. After a 10 minute drive, I decided that it was time to go to a cruse night. The temp. dropped to 82 degrees and the gauged stayed below 190 degrees for the 15 Minuit drive home. I think that it will overheat in summer traffic though.
  4. No, I set it to fit the shoes slightly larger, and then adjusted them and then used a special brake id. and od. gauge on the drum and made sure that the shoe diameter was a little bit smaller than the inside of the drum. (factory specks are 5 to 6 thousands_
  5. I shortened the push rod 1/8" and they bleed nicely now. Thanks for all the help. I made this simple jig to center the shoes. It is just a long 1/2" bolt welded to a wheel bearing nut with a piece of 1/4" flat stock bent on a 90 degree angle.
  6. I took my first ride this afternoon in my survivor, (after sitting 62 Years, 39,000miles) The engine is so quiet that I thought it staled at a red light! It [s running a little hot, when I shut it off it burped thru the 4 lb. radiator cap. I have the timing set at 2 degrees. It starts instantly and idles at about 500 rpms. Could the timing be causing it to run hot? I do not have a shroud on it. (I think that there should have one but I'm not sure.) A quick buff with very fine compound brought the shine of the original paint right back on the rear fender and deck. Roger
  7. I sand blasted the air cleaner oil pan and used a 3M product #08274 which is an epoxy adhesive for steel to steel. Not pretty but my aim was to put a fairly thick layer on the inside and outside. I will next paint it inside and out with primmer and industrial Imron urethane. Thanks for all the suggestions. Roger
  8. With all the responses above, I am starting to feel old. My father drove a 38 Buick and our neighbor had a 24? 4 door open top car that they regularly drove to Florida. It had the attachments on the running boards for luggage. That must have been quite a trip! On the street, a painter had a 30's open side pickup with a roof over the bed with side curtains. The mason across the street had a similar one. Later there was a 3 door Henry J down the street. My first car was a 39 Dodge that I paid $35 for.
  9. I think that that is my exact problem. I will ck the length of my old push rods. Thanks, Roger
  10. I disconnected everything and tested them individually. All passed fluid
  11. I have installed a complete brake system on my 48. Steel lines, hoses, MC, Wheel cylinders and I blead R.R, L,R and the R, F, no problem! But I can't get any fluid to pass into the L. F. cylinders. The steel line is clear, the new hose is clear, the Cylinders do not have anything in them(I took them apart to ck). The metal piece in the clyinder that holds the rubber seems to bottom out over the inlet holes. I only get a few drops out of the upper bleeder. I have tried two different new cylinders and no luck. The shoes are centered and adjusted, but still no fluid. Does anyone have any suggestion as to what could be wrong? Thank you, Roger
  12. I am about to instal the air cleaner on my new ride and I noticed that the oil bath air cleaner has many small holes in the bottom of it. The bottom pan where the oil is placed was copper plated and started to rust from the outside. I was thinking of applying an epoxy adhesive for steel to the inside (after sandblasting) forming an even coating and then brush another coating on the outside bottom. I have placed a SS heat shield over the exhaust manifold that is directly under it. I thought of soldering it but there are too many holes. Has any one addressed this problem and has advice for me? Thank you, Roger.
  13. That is a good looking truck. It would be a good project to have it running and driving. It will never be worth a lot of money but could be re-powered with a Chevy engine and transmittion for a lot cheaper than the original one. The windshield could be a problem finding one. Don't give up! (But place an ad in Craig's list for what ever you paid for it and maybe someone will relieve you of it.)
  14. I have an 48 Chrysler that has Plaid seat covers that were installed by the dealer when it was new.😮 I am concerned how I should care for the fabric when I remove the covers. I would imagine that the fabric would be matted down. Could someone tell me how would I restore it to the correct texture? The door panels are in good shape and I shampooed them but they have darkened with time. I think that they were originally a cream color to go with the blue seats. I am hoping that I can restore them to the original color. Thanks,🙂 Roger
  15. The rough surface that you are seeing are probably the remains of rust pits that are clean now. Once you put a good coat of silver paint back on them no one will ever notice. I have a "classic" late 50's 32 hotrod that I maliciously painted the under side and used stainless steel bolts that I ground and polished up real shiny. NOBODY, ever looked under the car at any car show that I went to!
  16. The first thing that I do when I put a car on a lift of jack stands is to try and knock it off! THEN I get under it!
  17. Does anyone have facts on the question that I asked? on how "old" tires are different than new ones regarding tread separation?
  18. Are "ooold} tires really bad? I have "new" tires that came with my car that are 30 years old and never been driven. They have been in a dark garage for ever. I understand that late model tires have a "weaker" rubber content that does not stick to the steel ply's and that is why they are recommended to be changed in 6 years. It the same fault inherent in older non steel tires? I hardly ever drive on the highway, only slow city driving . The tires hardly even get warm. What is your expert opinion, not what "they" say?
  19. I am embarrassed to say that I have many of those tools in my tool box that I use quite often! A while back, a friend that is into national racing asked me if I could identify a screw head and I f I knew the name of the tool that is used with it. I calmly went to my tool box and handed him two different sizes of Clutch head screw drivers.
  20. If your Plymouth is anything like my 48 Chrysler, it has the spark plug wires going thru a metal tube to shield the radio. Plenty of chances for the spark plug wires to short out there. Try new wires, and maybe reroute them with spark plug wire stands instead of going thru the shield.( If you don't mind being not period correct) 😮
  21. Spray the ignition with WD 40. (or wire dry) Do inside the cap, plugs and wires and ck the point gap while you are at it.
  22. When I drained the oil on my 48 that had only 39,000 miles on it, I stuck my finger into the hole and notices a lot of sludge in side. I was surprised as the PO had taken meticulous care of it. I then filled the oil back up and changed the filter. After a long time getting it started, it ran smooth. I only ran it for about 10 minutes total. I then decided to drop the pan and clean it out. The oil was as black as coal. There was about 3/8" of sludge on the bottom and the oil pick up was right in the middle of it. It even left an imprint in the sludge. Moral of the story, ALWAYS drop the pan!👍
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