Roger Walling

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Everything posted by Roger Walling

  1. I once bought a Pontiac Safari wagon for $60 that had all the bells and whistles. I used it for a year and was thrilled to sell it for $60 when I no longer needed it. At that time, Nomads were worth a lot, but nobody thought anything about a Pontiac! I still hate myself!
  2. Maybe this guy could help. http://bigjims.net/moparsk.htm
  3. I can't believe someone would park a Hispano Suiza on the street!
  4. Wheelmang If you haven't sanded out your orange peel primer yet, use a 8" sanding block with a slightly soapy water mixture. (360 grit) If you go through to bare metal, don't worry, the primer sealer will bond to the metal. Just don't remove the old primer from the deep sand scratches. Very messy but 100 times quicker. Wash the trunk and fender areas that you will not be painting along with the entire car and blow out all cracks and mouldings to eliminate the water.
  5. Go ahead and paint it!!! It is more gratifying to learn, than to pay. (Don't skip the feathering of the chips and scratches though, they will make runs in the wet paint!)
  6. "Sanding primer with 180 then 220 (or more) with a DA or by hand blocking?" Sand the primer with 360 or 400 grit paper. Surface primer that you sand is only necessary to fill in coarse sandpaper scratches. Use as necessary, not needed over 360 or 400 grit scratches. Excess primer or paint should be avoided. "Color sand only the final clear coat 1000 up to 2500 wet?" If you are not looking for a real special job, you can skip the color sand as long as you don't have a lot of dust in the finish. "How long after is it good to sand?" Some paints have to be sanded a few days after shooting or it becomes real hard. Some paints can be sanded within hours of spraying. When in doubt, read the instructions.
  7. After sanding primer, be sure that you give it a coat of non sanding primer/sealer 1/2 hour before the color. It will stop sand scratches in the top coat and will give the surface an even color coat so that the top coat will cover better with less coats. It also bonds the color better to the surface preventing flaking.
  8. I was wondering when someone would bring this up. RESTOMODS ARE BECOMING VERY POPULAR NOW AND ARE BRINGING IN A LOT MORE MONEY . A friend did the conversion and used a Jag rear end. I suggested that he run 3" square tube the full length of the car in order to hang everything off of it and strengthen the unibody. It worked out very well. His car in now worth maybe 3 times the amount of the original and it looks and rides like a dream.
  9. NAPA sells 6" adapter lines for the master cyl. connections.
  10. Back in the old days, I would DA the car with 180 grit paper, tack off and spray one coat of non sanding primmer-sealer and then three coats of enamel, all in one day. ($80.00 please, thank you) You could DA a whole car with 400 grit, tack it, and spray a non sanding primmer-sealer and then top coat it. It will be a good looking 30/30 finish* that won't peel off. *(30 feet at 30 mph) In your specific case, tack it , spray the non sanding primmer-surfacer and then the top coats. You could spray one or two extra top coats so that you could buff out some small defects later. Not every paint job has to meet everybody else's standards. Buffing a new bad paint job always makes it look better because it removes the new look and the criticism from the "know it all's."
  11. I prefer to use the straight flared lines that I buy from NAPA. You just use a tape measure and follow the path of where you want the lines to go and then buy multi lengths of tubing that add up to the length needed. The shorter lengths make for easier and more accurate bending and installation. Just couple them together with couplings and bleed! The whole setup comes out straighter and better fitting that using roll tubing, and it's quicker! The only exception is the gas line that I prefer to use a one piece unit with flexible high pressure fuel injection hose on each end, using flares to make sure it doesn't slip off. Ps, if you still want to use a roll of tubing, step on the loose end and unroll the tube by pushing it down firmly on the floor as you unroll, stepping on it all the way.
  12. Tidbinbilla , If your car is painted with lacquer, and if you use anything other than lacquer, it will crack as the lacquer under it moves with temperatures and cracks the top coat. Ps, there are two different types of lacquer, lacquer and acrylic lacquer. The latter coming into use in the 60's.
  13. I would think that if you pressurized the system (with the radiator isolated) with kerosene, you could find the leak if the oil pan was removed. The system should hold at least 25 lbs without any problem with the possible exception of the water pump which probably could also be isolated. The kerosene would find a hole better than water and could be flushed out easily. I have never done it but it could be worth the try. Or, you could try the dye that is used in AC units to find a leak. The pan would have to be off to locate the leak as soon as it appears
  14. Have you considered using an overhead door with a decal on it? The design could be anything from a castle door to a design that looks like the inside of a barn or a airplane hanger. Google GARAGE DOOR DECALS
  15. Something for everybody there. I'm wondering if there is a strong market for the early cars (10's and 20's) or is it past their prime?
  16. Patina is a much valued treasure, to be admired and unable to be duplicated. Enjoy the moment, as it only comes with time and memories.
  17. Original MSRP Low Retail Average Retail High Retail Base Price $725 $7,025 $10,900 $17,700 Ford two door Tudor. NADA prices These prices are subject to interpretation, in other words, best guess.
  18. Whatever your choice, SET A TIME FOR COMPLETION! A car that takes three years to paint was probably done in the last month or so at the shop! If they are not going to work on it right away or finish it on time you are probably being stroked.
  19. This is not the first car in space. The Star Trek crew found a early ford pick up with a man driving it in space in one of their episodes.
  20. If they lost $100,000 last year, why not just sell $200,000 worth of cars and keep it going for another year?
  21. A salvage title on an older car would not bother me at all if it was a project car. If a car was totaled in 1960, it probably had $1500 damage, a drop in a bucket compaired to restoration costs. It would be repaired to factory specs during the restoration anyways.
  22. One thing to consider is insuring the truck with an "classic" collector policy. When I finished my 56 F750 Ford, my ins. company would not insure it as "it was too big" I also have a 1/2 ton "tow" truck with dual wheels for looks. They would not insure that one either.
  23. I bought a 55 Chrysler and tried to start the engine with no luck. I drained the oil and stuck my finger in the drain hole to feel for particles, All I found was sludge about 1 1/2" thick with a hole through it to drain the oil. After removing the pan, the sludge was completely surrounding the pick up screen and over the top of it, Deciding that it needed to be disassembled, I Removed the water pump, It was completely filled with rust, as were the holes going into the block. I removed the core plugs to find the block completely full of rust. Three months later I happened to turn the radiator upside down and was showered with water that did not drain even though the lower radiator hose was off. You may be wasting your time trying to start it and may do more harm than good.