Roger Walling

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Everything posted by Roger Walling

  1. Does a 1948 chrysler royal limousine have a door pillar between the doors? A friend has a Limo for sale and I can't open the doors to check if it is a Windsor or a Royal. I can't see what model it is, it's buried in the brush. If it is a Royal, it might be worth restoring?
  2. A friend of mine owned one that was a salsmans car for Swift and company. No back seat, just a platform.
  3. Another thing to consider when installing seat belts is, is the body going to stay on the chassis in the event of an accident? I would not want to be attached to the frame if I thought that the body could be ripped off in a roll over. In that case, a good reinforcement added on the body would keep you inside of the body, if not with the rest of the car.
  4. Gary, Is it worth $6000 to tow your truck mabey 10 or 15 times? ($400 each time) Buy a smaller trailer and keep the flat bed.
  5. I have a 31 Essex that was slightly rusted. I hand sanded it with fine scuff pads in a straight line and then clear coated it. I kinda looks like brushed Stainless Steel.
  6. I was 18 when the Edsels were introduced. At that time, everybody flocked to the show rooms to see what was new that year. The Edsels were not supposed to be shown until a certain day, so the local dealer, Young motors, painted up the mechanics shop all in bright green and white and kept the cars there until the opening day. BUT! they left the garage doors all open and did not stop the curious from going inside. When I saw the first one I seen on the road I thought, this will change the way all cars were made! I recall a saying that went around that stated that one person drove to Florida in one and the only thing that was still working when he got there was the motor.
  7. Touching up that scrape with any color red will not do much for the overall appearance of the car except at about 40" away. It seems to me that it needs body work in addition to paint work. A body shop is the best thing if the color match is bothering you.
  8. I have replaced many windshields in my time but the one that got me pulling out my hair was a big monster one on a large motorhome. I finally called the manufacturer of the motorhome and he explained just how to do it. First, start the windshield in the grove on the bottom, Then, ( I kid you not) take a bumper jack and place it on the dash and jack up the top until it fits!
  9. I was just wondering about selling a car for cash. If you took the buyer to a bank and had him obtain a bank check in front of you, 1, Can the bank stop payment to you for any reason? 2, If the cash had been stolen, is there any recourse by anyone toward you? 3, If the money was counterfeit, could the bank stop payment on the check? 4 If he deposited the cash into your account, could there be any problems in the future? 5, If the buyer cried fraud after receiving the car, could the bank refuse to honor the check? 6, Would the best way be to have the buyer deposit the cash into your "special" account in front of you and then close out the account? Any comments or experiences that you wish to share? My bank has assured me that any money that is counted by machine is certified not to be counterfeit.
  10. As a buyer, I would inspect the auto at the sellers address and would expect to be able to examine every part and to drive it. When satisfied, I would sign a sales agreement with the seller describing all concerns, agreed by both parties. A token deposit would be given and then the balance would be paid according to the sales agreement upon the delivery of the auto. A business deal is a two way deal, each being satisfied with their desires.
  11. If you are looking into buying one, be prepared to mortgage your house for the money needed.
  12. I'll buy it if you deliver it, ps, the check is in the mail.
  13. It's a good thing that those same crooks aren't the same people that I bought the Brooklyn bridge from, I am going to set up a toll booth and get rich on that investment. ?
  14. classic car fraud scheme shut down 3 hours ago Fox news $4.5 million classic car fraud scheme shut down by FBI By Sean Szymkowski | Motor Authority As classic cars become more than just aspirational items and more investment pieces, buyers should always stay vigilant. Today, it's easy for criminals to scam would-be buyers out of a sale with a little creativity and the Internet. Many enthusiasts found that out the hard way over the past two years. The criminals, most of Eastern European descent, launched the nationwide fraud ring in November 2016 and the criminal activity continued through July of 2018. U.S. officials said the scheme involved posting fake classic car ads online, luring buyers, and setting up shell corporations to transfer money out of the U.S. Victims responded to ads for various classic cars on popular car sale sites, and once the two parties agreed on a final price, the defendants would direct the buyers to automotive transportation companies. The transport companies were actually the shell corporations ready to receive payment and wait for one of the 25 criminals to withdraw the funds. Victims never received the car they thought was being delivered. Upon receiving payment, the group would begin withdrawing money from the shell corporations' bank accounts sometimes the same day victims wired money. The group worked to ensure withdrawals were in varied denominations to not tip off financial institutions or authorities to the illegal activity. The money was then sent to various Eastern European countries. Most of the victims were never able to recover the money sent and some have been left paying for auto loans without ever purchasing a car. Each defendant could be in for up to 50 years in prison for their crimes and victims will be eligible for restitution.
  15. This auction shows the importance of details when donating cars to a museum. In this case, there was no restrictions on what could be done with the cars, even though it was intended to be a long time running museum, it is now being sold for the money.
  16. There are actually two cures for this condition, (actually three if you are married) one is to run out of money, the second is to die. (In that case, the one with the most cars wins)
  17. I did have my mask on when I bought this diesel bucket loader from the same auction for $2400.
  18. OLD? Ford truck? I have one just like it. (88)I use it for a snow plow for my parking lot. It has a brand new rebuilt Cat engine and a reman allison trans, All for $2400 at public auction. I lengthened the blade to 13' to cut down the time plowing. Nothing stops it!
  19. It is not an acid. It works by taking away the oxygen from the iron oxide. (rust) It never affects the solid steel.
  20. This is a qut. panel that sat for 15 years unpainted and badly rusted just like the original posted car ,that had soaked about two weeks. The bath was made out of 2- 2X10's cut to 6' and 4'. the liner was a piece of plastic and covered so it would not evaporate.
  21. * Recent tests have shown that this process is NOT safe for Zinc Die Cast Metal, also known as "Pot Metal" Unless your goal is to dissolve the pot metal, do NOT immerse those parts in Molasses!! It is not clear what other metals may also be affected by this process, so use caution. Removing rust using Molasses uses a process known as Chelating. Without a good, scientific explanation, the process can be described as "Reverse Oxidation", wherein certain acids or chemicals in the molasses solution strip the oxygen from the Iron Oxide, leaving the iron behind. While I'm not absolutely positive about what exactly causes the rust to be removed, I am sure about one thing: It works. The process is slow compared with other methods; electrolysis, various other acids, abrasives. Surface rust can be removed in a day or several, while heavy rust will require at least a couple of weeks. However, there are several advantages! 1. The ingredients are inexpensive. I purchased 5 gallons of feed-grade molasses from the grain elevator yesterday for less than $9, and that included a dollar for the container (because I didn't have one with me). This is enough to produce 20-50 gallons of solution (usually 1:4 or 1:10 is used). 2. There are no dangerous chemicals. Unlike some of the other methods, there is nothing that can burn your skin or eyes, and most other metals are unaffected, by this method. 3. There are no toxic by-products. The solution can be used repeatedly, for many months, but when it's time to dispose, you can safely pour out onto the lawn, where the molasses and water will decompose naturally. 4. It's effective. All oxidation will be completely removed, given enough time in the bath. The clean metal underneath will not be affected. For heavy rust it will take longer, and certainly a wire brush will help remove the large depsits, and help the process by allowing fresh molasses to come into contact with the rust. Now, there are a couple of drawbacks. First, the process is slow. I've already mentioned that, but if you have more time than money, it's a great way to get rid of the rust on your restoration projects. Also, the Molasses solution smells like molasses. Even worse, once the solution starts to ferment, it will smell even more. I've tried using chlorine bleach to prevent fermentation and mold, but was unsuccessful. It's possible that the bleach evaporated out. I've read that people consider the fermentation process necessary for the process to work good, but I doubt that's the case. It will likely increase the acid level of the mix, but I expect the regular solution to still be very effective regardless. I may try the chemical that winemakers use to prevent fermentation in wines and see if that is effective. Also, the parts will come out of the process with no protection from future rust, and the oxidation will commence again immediately. You must be prepared to clean the molasses from the parts, and protect the metal right away, either by painting, oiling, or or other means, otherwise your parts will quickly begin to rust again. I've soaked brake drums, heavy with rust for a couple of months (forgot about them) and after washing them with soap and water, they began to rust even before they were dry. Be ready to protect your parts! Oh, and your parts must be degreased completely, since the solution does not cut grease, and the grease will prevent the solution from contacting the rust.
  22. Sorry, everybody failed this test. Submerge the hood in a bath of molasses and water (9 water-1 molasses) for about 2-3 weeks. Pressure wash it. blow it dry with air pressure and NO RUST, NO SCRUBBING.not even in the deepest pits! Buy molasses at a feed and grain store. $50 for a 5 gal pail.
  23. Whatever it is, I'm fairly confident it ran when parked, It'll will buff out!
  24. These are brand new cars in the bucket that were spilled out or a sunken ship.