Roger Walling

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Everything posted by Roger Walling

  1. Update on the sale. Nothing has happened! The photographer's computer went to the great graveyard in the sky. After bringing it to the great wizard, he got back most of his stuff. Then... he got the flu bug that sent him to the depths of hell for a while. Soon he will get back to work on the sale. (reported in his last video Mar 26, 2018)
  2. A rolling stone gathers no moss. Use it or lose it!
  3. It will not remove grease or the rust under it
  4. Lighten up, it's only a gentle ribbing. PS, did you notice that he corrected it?
  5. Peter, your off to a bad start...note below forum listing. "Judging Info on open junkyards by, name, state with a description of content.'
  6. I would dip them in a rest remover and then ask them to buff and plate the areas that they can, and then mask and paint the rest.
  7. It is used when applying a second color right over the first for two toning.
  8. That C mack reminds me of a time when I painted one for a customer that wanted to use it as an advertisement. Much later someone asked why I hadn't painted the doors. I stated because there are no doors. He then grabbed hold of one and lifted it up into position! Opp's! Ps, I was rewarded for the paint job with a 1924 Autocar.
  9. The Uber company had turned off a part of the system. The driver was looking down at the time. The person appear so suddenly I doubt that an attentive driver would have seen her.
  10. I once bought a Pontiac Safari wagon for $60 that had all the bells and whistles. I used it for a year and was thrilled to sell it for $60 when I no longer needed it. At that time, Nomads were worth a lot, but nobody thought anything about a Pontiac! I still hate myself!
  11. Maybe this guy could help. http://bigjims.net/moparsk.htm
  12. I can't believe someone would park a Hispano Suiza on the street!
  13. Wheelmang If you haven't sanded out your orange peel primer yet, use a 8" sanding block with a slightly soapy water mixture. (360 grit) If you go through to bare metal, don't worry, the primer sealer will bond to the metal. Just don't remove the old primer from the deep sand scratches. Very messy but 100 times quicker. Wash the trunk and fender areas that you will not be painting along with the entire car and blow out all cracks and mouldings to eliminate the water.
  14. Go ahead and paint it!!! It is more gratifying to learn, than to pay. (Don't skip the feathering of the chips and scratches though, they will make runs in the wet paint!)
  15. "Sanding primer with 180 then 220 (or more) with a DA or by hand blocking?" Sand the primer with 360 or 400 grit paper. Surface primer that you sand is only necessary to fill in coarse sandpaper scratches. Use as necessary, not needed over 360 or 400 grit scratches. Excess primer or paint should be avoided. "Color sand only the final clear coat 1000 up to 2500 wet?" If you are not looking for a real special job, you can skip the color sand as long as you don't have a lot of dust in the finish. "How long after is it good to sand?" Some paints have to be sanded a few days after shooting or it becomes real hard. Some paints can be sanded within hours of spraying. When in doubt, read the instructions.
  16. After sanding primer, be sure that you give it a coat of non sanding primer/sealer 1/2 hour before the color. It will stop sand scratches in the top coat and will give the surface an even color coat so that the top coat will cover better with less coats. It also bonds the color better to the surface preventing flaking.
  17. I was wondering when someone would bring this up. RESTOMODS ARE BECOMING VERY POPULAR NOW AND ARE BRINGING IN A LOT MORE MONEY . A friend did the conversion and used a Jag rear end. I suggested that he run 3" square tube the full length of the car in order to hang everything off of it and strengthen the unibody. It worked out very well. His car in now worth maybe 3 times the amount of the original and it looks and rides like a dream.
  18. NAPA sells 6" adapter lines for the master cyl. connections.
  19. Back in the old days, I would DA the car with 180 grit paper, tack off and spray one coat of non sanding primmer-sealer and then three coats of enamel, all in one day. ($80.00 please, thank you) You could DA a whole car with 400 grit, tack it, and spray a non sanding primmer-sealer and then top coat it. It will be a good looking 30/30 finish* that won't peel off. *(30 feet at 30 mph) In your specific case, tack it , spray the non sanding primmer-surfacer and then the top coats. You could spray one or two extra top coats so that you could buff out some small defects later. Not every paint job has to meet everybody else's standards. Buffing a new bad paint job always makes it look better because it removes the new look and the criticism from the "know it all's."
  20. I prefer to use the straight flared lines that I buy from NAPA. You just use a tape measure and follow the path of where you want the lines to go and then buy multi lengths of tubing that add up to the length needed. The shorter lengths make for easier and more accurate bending and installation. Just couple them together with couplings and bleed! The whole setup comes out straighter and better fitting that using roll tubing, and it's quicker! The only exception is the gas line that I prefer to use a one piece unit with flexible high pressure fuel injection hose on each end, using flares to make sure it doesn't slip off. Ps, if you still want to use a roll of tubing, step on the loose end and unroll the tube by pushing it down firmly on the floor as you unroll, stepping on it all the way.
  21. Tidbinbilla , If your car is painted with lacquer, and if you use anything other than lacquer, it will crack as the lacquer under it moves with temperatures and cracks the top coat. Ps, there are two different types of lacquer, lacquer and acrylic lacquer. The latter coming into use in the 60's.