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Roger Walling

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Posts posted by Roger Walling

  1.  Remove the pieces and sand blast with 000 sand, primmer and paint.

     You will probably have to remove all chrome as it will tend to flake and leave a jagged edge.


     Be careful not to sand blast any detail off. You may be able to only etch the chrome instead of removing it if it doesn't start to flake.


     You could also use paint remover and then acid etch it with phosphoric acid.

  2.  Patina, take your pick.


    From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

    Antique and well-used firearms will often develop a layer of rust on the action, barrel, or other steel parts.

    A Patina, From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. After the original finish has worn. This layer of rust is often erroneously[16] called a patina.
    On metal, patina is a coating of various chemical compounds such as oxides, carbonates, sulfides, or sulfates formed on the surface during exposure to atmospheric elements (oxygen, rain, acid rain, carbon dioxide, sulfur-bearing compounds).In common parlance, weathering rust on steel is often mistakenly referred to as patina
    Artists and metalworkers often deliberately add patinas as a part of the original design and decoration of art and furniture, or to simulate antiquity in newly made objects. The process is often called distressing.



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  3. I do a lot of fabricating sheet metal and I have large industrial equipment but rarely do I ever fabricate the small parts that can be done on the 3 in 1 machine.

     Therefor, I conclude that if you own one, you will hardly ever use it and it will sit in the corner collecting dust.


     Instead, buy your self a good set of tinsnips. Small pieces of sheet metal can be bent between two pieces of angle iron clamped in a vice. Sheet metal can be easily be wrapped around different sizes of pipe or even a soup can.




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  4. 21 hours ago, junkyardjeff said:

    Those seats might not be in good shape,my 50 had them on since new and the original covers were rotten.

     I am concerned about that. One reason that I am going to remove the seat covers is that the stitching on the covers is starting to let go so I don't have much choice.

  5.  I like the fluid drive. I wasn't sure if I would like it but it is really nice shifting,

     It moves away from the stop light in 3rd just a little slow but it is not worth putting it in 1st/2nd and then have to shift. Let the guy behind me be patient!


     If I want to go fast, I could use my 57 Corvette. I'm not sure which one that I like best for causal driving, but they both attract a lot of attention while driving.

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  6.  I did finally find the white wheel ring that I was missing thanks to a fellow member.

     Indeed, it does have an eight, plenty of power and torque.

     At 80 it still wants to go for more.

     I did replace all the wheel cylinders master lines and hoses.

     I dropped the pan and cleaned out 1" of sludge, dropped the gas tank and pressure washed out all the sticky residue from the old evaporated gas.

     I pulled the head to free the valves with penetrating oil and installed a new water pump.

     Ps, did mention that it has only 39500 miles on it?

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  7. I am hoping that the original seat upholstery will stand up to use after I remove the seat covers.


    I had a 62 Falcon with "brand new" original upholstery that crumbled into little pieces when I sat on it.


     I have already looked into new wool upholstery if the original's fail. The cost is less than $700. Time will tell,


    I will post a pic of the original seats later in spring after I finish doing a few needed things. I do plan on driving it in the winter on a few nice days.


                                      DAM THE SALT! nice driving days ahead!




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  8. 11 minutes ago, Joe Cocuzza said:

    I would leave the seat covers on to protect that 73 year old upholstery

    Just my opinion

     The upholstery will only  deteriorate with time.

     While I appreciate the PO's diligence in adding the seat covers, he has never had the pleasure of seeing the nice blue color that he paid for.

     One of the main reasons that I bought the car was to enjoy the original interior of a survivor



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  9. Yesterday I took my first long drive in my New Yorker. (about 50 miles) First real trip since 1957.

     It went smoothly and kept up with the traffic on the Mass pike with of plenty of power left over.  40 lbs. of oil pressure, 185 degrees temp.

     No problems and it shifted with ease. I only used 3rd and 4th and the kick down worked smoothly.


     The wind noise was louder than the engine.

     At idle the engine can hardly be heard.

     I did lower the rpm and it lowed the oil pressure from 40lbs to 20 at idle. I wonder if that is  enough?


     I could not get Corker tires so I am using modern radials 225 15's that add to the road noise.

     I still have to adjust the choke and read about how to do it today.


     I am just about to remove the seat covers that have been on it since 1949. They are a beautiful blue color (Wool?)  (my car is technically is a 49 as it was built in the first part of 49 due to production problems with the new 49's.




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  10. A friend has a "30" 4 door A that was her husbands project car.

     The parts are scattered around the garage.

    Body is on frame and painted. All parts may be there?

    No title.

     She wants it gone. Located in eastern Ma.

     She asked me what it should sell for.

     I think that it would only be a labor of love for a buyer.

     Does anyone care to place a value on it?


  11. 20 hours ago, Mark Shaw said:

    Solder or weld the pin holes and the detached parts of the diffuser.  

     When you clean that plate up enough to soldier up the pin holes, you will have found about 300 new pin holes! Not an easy job to do.


     (Then one week after you install it, you will find one other hole 🤬

    • Haha 1
  12.  I'm not sure about the interior piece but, If all I was only worrying about was the holes in the external plate, I would just fabricate a new piece of 16 GA, sheet metal and place it between the outside plate and the gasket.

     First I would place the old one on a flat plate of steel and hammer out the dished bolt holes)


     After looking at the pic's again, it seems that the inside plate distributes the water to each space between the cylinders, so my suggestion may not work although you may be able to fasten the inside plate to the new one plate or make a new one)

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  13.  When I post a picture on the web, I take the time to put it in an environment that shows off the qualities of the item.

     Several photos are taken from different angles without confusing backgrounds.

     The title of the post is also considered along with a description and short story about the item.

     If the item is not in my possession, at least a better pic. and description would lead to informative answers to my question.

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  14.  Beware of on line sales!!!


     There is a car on Facebook that is listed for $9600.

     The ad states that it is a sound car!

     One question from a reader asks "How is the floor", the answer, "needs work"


     I know that that car has a rusted out frame, there is no bottom of it on both sides!

     It needs a front crossmember. 

     It needs a complete floor, inc. all braces and rocker panels!

     All of the usual rot spots have been bondoed 15 years ago!

     The car had been sold for parts for $600 recently.


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  15.  I have a 38 Buick honey comb radiator with brass tanks and a 55 Chrysler radiator that I wanted to sell but I think that the shipping would be more than the value of the radiator.

     So I think that they will soon go for scrap.  😨

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