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scott12180

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Posts posted by scott12180

  1. Interesting point on early versus later engines...

    I'd still prefer an oil with zddp rather than one without. But I've read that diesel oils are not good for gasoline engines. Something about how the additive package is formulated differently. 

    The car is not all that exotic---1932 Packard standard eight

  2. Without opening this beat-to-death discussion once again, could someone please give me their recommendation for a good engine oil for use in a rebuilt 1930's straight eight? 

    I've searched and there's a whole lot on the internet about oils and how ZDDP is being phased out, but I figure any discussion more than a year or two old is outdated as oil manufacturers change their formulations.  What's the latest collective wisdom?

     

    I interested in oil viscosity (10W-30 versus 10W-40, etc) and the brand which has the highest ZDDP ppm . . . . . preferably in an over-the-counter-at-Walmart brand that doesn't cost $10 per quart.  (I use eight quarts per change !) 

     

    Thanks -- Scott

    Troy, NY

  3. Does anyone have a method for balancing the tires on earlier cars with wheels of a size that are not compatible with modern wheel balancers found in most tire shops? 

    My '32 Packard is fine up to about 40 mph then I get front wheel wobble and vibration.

     

    --Scott Dwyer

    Troy, NY

  4. For sale is a complete set of Automobile Quarterlies from Volume One Number One through Volume 30 number 4.

    As written on Wikipedia: "The magazine started in Spring 1962[3] . . . . .a cross between The New Yorker and Encyclopaedia Britannica in the world of auto mania".

    Automobile Quarterly was a hardbound, advertising-free periodical publication which focuses on cars.[1] The publication has been well known for quality writing and photography about automobiles, personalities and related subjects.[2] 

    Most issues are in brand new condition with mild wear on a few.  All have library jackets for each volume as shown in the photos. 

    Included also are indexes for all thirty volumes.

    $500 for the entire 120 book set plus shipping.

    Not sure how much shipping would cost but it will be in several smaller boxes, I'd guess.  Much better if you can arrange to pick up in Troy, New York.

     

    E-mail:  dwyer12180@gmail.com

     

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  5. For sale is a relatively modern BMW dealer's sign for the true enthusiast.  I got it because I'm into BMW motorcycles.

    As shown in the photo, this is big.  The white around the center is painted sheet metal (I think steel?) and the roundel in the center (the BMW logo) is plastic.  The plastic part is a little faded, and the white sheet metal is not rusted nor dented, but there are some scratches near the bottom (see photo).  You could repaint this part to look cleaner.

    I'd like $100 for the sign, but shipping is pretty much out of the question due to its size.  Local pickup in Troy, NY only.

     

    Please contact Scott at

    dwyer12180@gmail.com

     

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  6. For sale is a complete rear axle with both springs for a Series 10 or Series 11. 

    The gears look good inside with little wear. Axle case is not cracked that I could see, and all should clean up well. Both shafts are present and look good.

    Price is $300 but it would be hard to ship.  Best if someone could pick this up in Troy, New York.

    I'll also throw in an intake and exhaust manifold for a 10-C or Series 11-A. .

    Contact me at    dwyer12180@gmail.com

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  7. I have a variety of Splitdorf spark plugs for sale.  All are 7/8 thread. Some are large hex, some are small hex with extended electrode, some with recessed electrode, as shown in the photos.  All will fit Franklin downdrafts, at least the 6-30 and Series 9.  These were original equipment on the 6-30 Franklins.  They look very cool and actually run very well. Easy to take apart and clean.

     

    $35 each or a set of six for $200 postage paid (to the lower 48).

     

    Write with your needs. . .  dwyer12180@gmail.com

    Scott Dwyer

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  8. For sale is one used Packard Super 8 cylinder head for 1939. 

     

    Has not been magnafluxed but I see no visual cracks.

    If you are interested you probably know that the 1939 Super 8 head was only used for one year.  This head will fit previous years and Packard Service provided instruction how to modify your block to take advantage of the increased cooling capacity this head offered.  Or you could use it all as-is on a previous year 320 cu-in, but satisfy yourself that it will fit.

     

    Anyway, if you have a 1939, this is the only head that will fit. I'm 99-44/100% certain that it is for a 1939 Super 8, but since I did not remove it myself and am trusting the fellow I got it from, ask whatever questions to make sure that it is a Super 8. I'm just trying to be honest because of course, all sales final.

     

    Price is $300 plus figure on $50 for shipping as it is heavy and long.  Once it's packaged and ready to ship to your location, I'll let you know the exact shipping cost. Be best if you could pick it up in Troy, NY.

    e-mail me at      dwyer12180@gmail.com

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  9. For sale is one used Packard Super 8 cylinder head for 1939. 

     

    Has not been magnafluxed but I see no visual cracks.

    If you are interested you probably know that the 1939 Super 8 head was only used for one year.  This head will fit previous years and Packard Service provided instruction how to modify your block to take advantage of the increased cooling capacity this head offered.  Or you could use it all as-is on a previous year 320 cu-in, but satisfy yourself that it will fit.

     

    Anyway, if you have a 1939, this is the only head that will fit. I'm 99-44/100% certain that it is for a 1939 Super 8, but since I did not remove it myself and am trusting the fellow I got it from, ask whatever questions to make sure that it is a Super 8. I'm just trying to be honest because of course, all sales final.

     

    Price is $300 plus figure on $50 for shipping as it is heavy and long.  Once it's packaged and ready to ship to your location, I'll let you know the exact shipping cost. Be best if you could pick it up in Troy, NY.

    e-mail me at      dwyer12180@gmail.com

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  10. For sale is a collection of 25,  7/8" Splitdorf spark plugs 1/2-inch reach and the green pyramid ceramic.

    All have been thoroughly cleaned and are ready to be used in a car. These vintage spark plugs can make a big difference in your car.  They run great and give not only a properly running engine but have that really authentic look. 

    They are being sold with the vintage wooden storage box, as shown.  As such, they can be carried in your car or displayed in your shop or office.  An unusual set of 25 identical working plugs for $850 with free shipping in the USA.

     

     

     

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  11. For Sale --- Packard Banjo Ivory Steering Wheel, 1930's. 

    Looks to be original with very nearly perfect plastic rim.  The only crack is a tiny, maybe 1/8-inch crack near the spokes, as shown in the photo.  The hub under the wheel has its original chrome and does show imperfections --- little  bumps.  The chrome is not peeling off, just not perfectly smooth due to age.

    This is an 18-3/8" wheel diameter with 3/4" spline hub.  My guess is it's for a 120 series Packard.  I know it does not fit a Super 8 because that's what I bought it for, then discovered it didn't fit. 

    Asking Price is $1200 with free shipping to the lower 48.

     

    Scott Dwyer

    Troy, NY

    dwyer12180@gmail.com

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  12. For Sale --- Packard Banjo Ivory Steering Wheel. 

    Looks to be original with very nearly perfect plastic rim.  The only crack is a tiny, maybe 1/8-inch crack near the spokes, as shown in the photo.  The hub under the wheel has its original chrome and does show imperfections --- little  bumps.  The chrome is not peeling off, just not perfectly smooth due to age.

    This is an 18-3/8" wheel diameter with 3/4" spline hub.  My guess is it's for a 120 series Packard.  I know it does not fit a Super 8 because that's what I bought it for, then discovered it didn't fit. 

    Price is $1200 with free shipping to the lower 48.

     

    Scott Dwyer

    Troy, NY

    dwyers@rpi.edu

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  13. Hey guys,

    I recall hearing somewhere that one year of Chevrolet Sixes of the early 1930s, the 1930 or maybe the 1931, was a "tough year for parts" because the parts are unique to that year only.  If it was '31, 1930 parts don't fit, nor to 1932 parts.  Any truth to that? Or have I got it all wrong?

    There's a 1930 Coupe available locally which I'm interested in, but I've never owned a Chevy of that vintage.  How are parts availability for a 1930?   I'd imagine that parts are not as easy to come by as they would be for Model A Fords.

     

    Also, anyone know what the rear axle ratio is on a 1930?  Some sources say 3.82 and others say 4.11.  That's quite a difference.

     

     

     

     

  14. For Sale is a complete set of Automobile Quarterly, Volume 1 through Volume 30 --- all issues including some of the hard to find numbers.  Each volume or year is in a black cardboard sleeve with "Automobile Quarterly" and the volume in gold letters.  These were available through the publisher.  All have been read but remain in like new condition.  Included are two indexes and an extra issue featuring Stanleys.

    $1000 for everything.  Prefer that you to pick up in Albany, NY or I can ship in several smaller boxes.  Figure on $100 for shipping and if it's less, I'll refund the difference.

    Scott

    dwyers@rpi.edu

     

  15. Hi All ---   I'm thinking of buying a Dodge from the 'teens --- 1915 through, say, 1921.  I've had old cars including Model T's but never a Dodge, although I've always liked them.  What are the like to drive?  To own?  To work on?  What are they comfortable cruising along at?  Are parts available easily?   And is there a support club or group out there?

     

    Thanks for any encouragement . . . . or caution ! :)

    --Scott

  16. 16 hours ago, John_S_in_Penna said:

    >>Speaking for myself, as a dedicated car hobbyist,

    I always buy from owners--not brokers, dealers, or re-sellers.

    I want to meet the owner, hear from him all the details of a

    car he's had for years, assess his honesty, and get his

    insights on the car.  Buying through a middleman makes it

    harder or impossible to get that information--and besides,

    they mark up the price, making the car more expensive.

     

     

     

    I agree with John and am in that situation right now.  I'm shopping for a car to replace something I've recently sold.

     

    To be sure there are good reputable dealers out there, but even they can't know all there is to know about a car's history. In addition, lots of these dealers or re-sellers place very high prices on cars which serves to depress the market.  The cars languish for sale at these prices for years sometimes. Getting the best price is part of the game but there's more to the hobby than money.  Otherwise, like your modern car,  it's not a hobby anymore. I will gladly give a long-time owner a generous price for a car I really want because they've earned it --- they restored, rebuilt, repaired, maintained and drove the car for many miles.  Dealers don't have the ability to provide that degree of "value added" if they buy on Monday and sell on Friday.  Maybe that's OK with used Toyotas but it's really necessary to know an old car well otherwise you could be in for major mechanical expenses.

     

    So, I wish owners would try to sell privately first.  Give the little guy a shot.  Keep the hobby a hobby.

    • Like 1
  17. Could someone give me an assessment of the work which would come out of this shop --- J&J Restorations in Canton, GA ?

     

    Looking at their website, they look like a modern car service garage, but they claim that they do old cars as well.   Seems their scope is a little more broad than I'd expect from a genuine classic car shop.  Has anyone had engine work on a pre-war Packard, Cadillac, Lincoln or similar car done by these folks?  Could you recommend their work?

     

    Reply privately if you'd rather not post to the public.

    Thanks --- Scott

  18. Matt Harwood recommends an overdrive based on his experience.

    Matt, you have one in a Cadillac?  And doesn't Cadillac have a torque tube?

    If a car has a torque tube like a Cadillac or Lincoln,  how would the overdrive be installed?  I assume the torque tube would be removed and a section cut out, then the overdrive installed.  Is that so?

     

    I'm aware of Gear Vendors and have used a Mitchell on a Packard.  Could you send your whole torque tube to either of these people and expect that they would install the overdrive for you?  Then it seems that you could just reinstall the new OD Torque Tube.

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