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scott12180

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Everything posted by scott12180

  1. Spark Knock problem appears to be solved. I replaced the advance springs on the distributor with some stiffer springs which I had --- one of the original springs looked so weak that it wasn't even in tension when fully advanced. That alone made the car run so much better and no pinging. The advance is now set at 9 degrees on the flywheel, exactly what is recommended. Thanks to Paul "PFitz" for the suggestion and hence reminding me that I had this similar problem 30 years ago on a Franklin. Now to do something about the carburetor. The engine is running so nicel
  2. I swapped some advance springs on the distributor today. What was there seemed very weak ---- one spring wasn't even in tension. Easy enough check because I can always put the "original" springs back. Now I've got slightly stiffer advance springs. I'll road test without changing anything but I am doubtful this alone will solve the problem. Unfortunately I don't know of anyone with a similar car to borrow a correct working distributor. That would be ideal. I will check as best I can to be sure number one is at top dead center since the flywheel is right now at 4 de
  3. George is right not to start mucking with the carburetor just yet. What started this, however, was poor fuel economy that made me think about what was what. That's when I began to check everything and discovered the source of the slight pinging was timing. However, SaddleRider suggested that due to the unlikelihood of spark knock in a car like this without huge advance, a mechanical failure could cause pinging, which was exactly what I originally feared. But what could fail to cause that kind of sound? Paul's comments on distributor advance reminds me of a 1925 Frankl
  4. I did not have the spark advance set at 28 degrees, but the dwell angle was 28 degrees when I first measured it. Anyway, with the new dwell set at 33 degrees and the points gap at a corresponding 0.012", the road test was quite a failure. The engine sounded like the anvil chorus with the knocking/pinging so bad that after three or four miles I had to pull over and retard the spark by rotating the distributor. I finally found a maximum advance with no pinging and continued on. At my destination before I began the 35 mile trip home, I thought that the engine had not se
  5. Apologies for not replying sooner. Life gets in the way sometimes. . . . I checked the dwell on the 902 and found that I had about 28 degrees with a points gap of 0.018". I adjusted the dwell so that I now have 33 degrees, (Grimy recommended 34 degrees) and the points gap falls in at 0.012" --- quite a difference in gap. I also set the advance to 4 degrees on the flywheel, which corresponds to the "high compression head" setting in the specs. Tomorrow I'll go for a long ride and see what happens. I can always adjust spark timing on the road. As for the
  6. Thanks for the advice on dwell. I'm going to appear very ignorant here because it's late and I don't want to spend the next hour searching Google. . . . Could someone explain the importance of the dwell angle? Or just give me a tutorial on dwell from basics? To me, it seems that dwell is determined by the points gap. Larger gap, smaller dwell. Dwell governs the amount of time for the ignition coil to "charge" before the points open and the spark is thrown. But as long as the points gap is reasonable, how else do you set dwell and why is it important? --- A b
  7. All your comments and advice is much appreciated ! Thanks very much. I'll give the vacuum method a try for comparison. . . . when I can find a vacuum gauge. And check the timing marks. Regarding twin points, this Northeast distributor used to have twin points but at some time someone converted the ignition to a single set of points with a new backing plate. I don't know the details but the previous owner might if it makes a difference. --Scott
  8. What I am doing is, with the engine off and cold, removing the starter, setting the pointer in the starter "window" for the degree advance setting recommended, then rotating the not-advanced distributor until the breaker points open. Is this not the correct way to set spark timing? To my knowledge, there are no other timing degree marks except on the flywheel exposed by removing the starter. Or is this procedure supposed to be done with the engine running using a timing light ?!? Never occurred to me.
  9. Curious question: Car is a 1932 Packard 902 Standard Eight. Rebuilt engine -- new bearings, pistons, valves. I thought I had a noisy valve or two or three --- a tappet-like clicking sound --- so I spent time adjusting all close to spec. I was next working on the ignition and went for a test drive, and noticed the valve clearance noise was much worse. Not anxious to dive into a hot and running engine again, I wondered if the spark timing might have anything to do with it. And it did. I retarded the distributor on the roadside until the clicking noise went away. Th
  10. I have a 1932 Packard standard eight. Is there yellow metal in the transmission or differential? Brass and bronze are not compatible with gear oils rated GL-5 due to the high sulpher content, so I understand. But I don't know what's inside a Packard transmission or rear end of this vintage. Can I use a modern GL-5 or should I look for a GL-4 or other low-tech gear oil? Thanks -- Scott Troy, NY
  11. Does anyone have a method for balancing the tires on earlier cars with wheels of a size that are not compatible with modern wheel balancers found in most tire shops? My '32 Packard is fine up to about 40 mph then I get front wheel wobble and vibration. --Scott Dwyer Troy, NY
  12. Is anyone familiar with or has anyone bought a car through a consignment dealer called "Classic Car Deals" located in Cadillac, Michigan up near Traverse City? http://www.classiccardeals.com/Default.aspx They have a car listed which I am interested in, but I experienced a rather "odd" phone conversation with someone with a lot of what seemed "canned" background noise. But what was of concern was that I think they didn't want to let me speak to the car's owner or give me his location until I paid them $1000 as a refundable deposit. Frankly, before I give anyone money, I need to know the
  13. A local acquaintance has a Stearns Knight which he'd like to sell. Very handsome car that I was quite interested in last year, but I hesitated because of the Knight engine. I am not at all familiar with these. I remember the car when it was on a small local tour as smoking terribly. The owner considerately drove at the rear of the pack, but it was not a good impression of the car. It appeared to be restored but to what degree the engine had been rebuilt, I do not know. I think he said he did have it apart. Frankly, I could not own a car which smoked like that. And these days, it would
  14. Interesting thread , , , , quick comments: --- You should set your sights on cars which are in your comfortable cruising altitude. I can't afford Pope Hartfords and Silver Ghosts, so I don't even lust over them. But I can other afford medium-high end cars. Right now I want a 1914 Cadillac. Might be a stretch, but I can do it. --- Brass cars have gone steadily up in value for as long as I've been into the hobby. What I would have overpaid for even ten years ago would be considered cheap today. that said, like any investment, there is a risk that we are at the top of a bubble and the onl
  15. Boy I'll say ! Now New York has a computerized system where every car needs to be scanned in to the government computer. A month ago I brought the 1912 in for its annual inspection, and the government computer couldn't handle something that old ! Said my VIN was invalid or some nonsense. How could it be invalid?? New York DMV issued me the registration on that number. ??? So I had to take time off from work and go down to the DMV office and talk to the DMV Head and County Clerk himself. And he didn't know what to do ! Finally he found out that whoever does the inspection needs to call
  16. In a literal sense, probably, but the point is that out-of-state cars are in any given state all the time. If I move to North Carolina or Minnesota, I think I can keep my NY plates for about as long as I want and same for coming to NY. I mean, college students do that for four years and more. I think it may be one of those things that it's only illegal if you get caught. But how are you going to get caught? A student who graduated a year ago and is still renting from me has a Wisconsin driver's license but bought a Mini Cooper in NY with NY registration. If he gets pulled over, what law
  17. Is it possible to register a vehicle --- an antique vehicle --- in another state? I recall that college atudents who typically have driver's licenses from other states can buy a car and register it in New York, even though they do not actually live in New York. I think all they need is a New York address. Several states do not have vehicle inspections for antiques, some like North Carolina are exempt if a car is 35 years old or more. So would a state like North Carolina issue a registration for a car when the owner doesn't actually live in North Carolina?
  18. I would like to see New York wave the annual vehicle inspection for historic vehicles. If not 25 year old cars, how about at the very least cars which are 100 years old ! There's not much to inspect on a 100 year old car anyway, and considering how much they are driven, why force an owner to submit to an inspection when the guys doing the inspection have no clue as what they are looking at? --Scott
  19. Very interesting. I didn't know about that detail of early Chrysler brakes. Thanks. You're right -- even the first Model T's had internal expanding rear brakes, but they were simply cast iron shoes, no lining, operating against pressed-steel drums. Hardly worth anything even in an "emergency". They were OK as parking brakes, though. Four wheel brakes were like the electric starter. Once one major manufacturer started to use it successfully, soon everyone had to have them to stay in the game. I'm not an expert here, but I would guess that by 1925 most manufacturers had four wheel brakes
  20. Although I can't answer your questions accurately, I can say that Packard began to use four wheel brakes made by Bendix in 1923. They were internal expanding, three shoes --- two self-energized for the forward drection, one for reverse. Chrysler adopted four wheel brakes with its new Six in 1924 (January 1924). They used Lockheed and I'm sure they were internal expanding. --Scott
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