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Everything posted by scott12180

  1. Today we commonly have Grade 2, Grade 5 and Grade 8 bolts at our disposal depending on the severity of the application. When did this distinction come about? On cars I've worked on from the teens, 20's and 30's, I've never seen any markings on a bolt to indicate its relative hardness. Even in the engine for connecting rods, main bearings or driveline. It seems back then a bolt was a bolt was a bolt. It was just the diameter that determined its strength. True? If not were there different hardness specs? If not, Was it also WWII which inaugurated the use of
  2. Anyone have a feel for when the torque wrench became a common tool for the home mechanic, or small-scale shop? When did the concept of tightening bolts to specific pre-determined values become used in factories on assembly lines?
  3. Great looking tires for a big Classic.
  4. For sale --- Four used Bedford Famous Coach tires, 700x19. Tires have good tread left but are 30 years old. An inexpensive and great looking set of tires for a car that you don't drive too much . . . . or your call. Brand new Bedfords are $250 each from Lucas. This set is $250 for all four plus shipping. Figure on $100 shipping but I will let you know the exact amount before you send a check. --Scott dwyer12180@gmail.com
  5. scott12180


    Only in the very early days. 1910 and earlier. If you need exact years you could look it up in ACN.
  6. scott12180


    I haven’t looked up your rivets specifically but McMaster Carr has just about everything you could want. Their online catalog and mail order service is the worlds largest hardware store.
  7. Ed Wager in Montpelier, Virginia has a car for sale on the HHFC website. I've tried to contact him but there is no response from the e-mail address and the telephone number listed has been disconnected. Does anyone know Ed or Sarah? Any way to get in touch? --Scott
  8. Just to throw in my two cents, I've found the original Wilkinson carburetor to be very nicely designed. It works well, is very efficient and gave me no troubles. I love the adjustable needle valve for you can not only finesse the mixture while running but you can shut off the car that way, and restart it on hot days very easily. Like a vacuum tank and six volt starter, don't give up on the original equipment. It works well when properly adjusted.
  9. Those of you using an overdrive, what brand are you using? And how or where is it mounted?
  10. You get more visibility and better Response in the general technical section. I also thought this problem may be relevant to similar L-head engines.
  11. Can the cam followers be removed and more importantly replaced without removing or disturbing the associated valves?
  12. I have a 1932 Packard Standard Eight. I've set the valves several times to everything from slightly loose (0.006 each) to factory specs of 0.004 each. And I always have one noisy valve. *Tick* tick *tick *tick*. . . . In an otherwise quiet engine it is annoying. I think I've located the valve --- number two exhaust. But why is it noisy? When I rebuilt the engine, the valves were all new from Egge, seats ground. Any suggestions for quieting this one out of 15 other well behaved valves ... without closing it up too much?
  13. You know, I'm just asking the question if the gears are available. I don't appreciate the insult. If you can't answer the question, please don't tell the world about your opinion of me. There is a reason why I am considering high speed gears. I have tried an overdrive in the car and it didn't work out well. For this particular car given the weight and the engine size and the rear axle gearing, in overdrive made the engine lug too much in my hilly country, and out of overdrive made the car too slow. Out of overdrive was 4.69. In overdrive was 3.47. What seems ideal for my ca
  14. Without explaining all the reasoning, here's a hypothetical question. Suppose you have a circa 1930 large-car Sedan. Packard, Cadillac, Buick, Pierce, etc. Could you put larger tires on the rear to get better speed while leaving smaller tires on the front because they look better . . . . or because you don't want to buy four large tires. The large tires on the front really would look truck-like. But on the back they are mostly hidden under the fenders. The question came up to put say, 650x19 on the front and 750x19 on the rear. The two-inch diameter increase on the rear give
  15. I'd like to find a set of Phil Bray's high speed ring and pinion gears which would fit a Packard standard eight, 1932. Specifically a 1932 902. That or any used, older ring and pinion gear set that would fit the '32 but have a lower ratio (higher speed) than 4.69. I'd be interested in the gears, the differential or an entire rear axle. Thanks -- Scott Troy, NY 1932 902 5-p Coupe dwyer12180@gmail.com
  16. I'd like to find a set of Phil Bray's high speed ring and pinion gears which would fit a Packard standard eight, 1932. Specifically a 1932 902. That or any used, older ring and pinion gear set that would fit the '32 but have a lower ratio (higher speed) than 4.69. I'd be interested in the gears, the differential or an entire rear axle. Thanks -- Scott Troy, NY 1932 902 5-p Coupe dwyer12180@gmail.com
  17. My 1932 902 has a two piece driveshaft. Does anyone have any experience rebuilding the center carrier or know of someone who has and can do the job? The bearings seem worn with plenty of slop, but more importantly the rubber vibration insulating section is all boogered up from age. I don't know how to replace that. The driveshaft runs OK, but there is vibration presumably coming from that center carrier. Thanks -- Scott Troy, NY 1932 Packard 902 5--p Coupe
  18. If you are considering putting old tires on a car, how old is too old? Say these are brand new never been on a car. Say these have been stored well with no issues. Do tires go bad simply due to age? Could a 40 year old tire, for instance, that’s never been mounted and has been stored well still be good as new to drive on?
  19. Please tell us how you want to install it ... and why Mitchell doesn't like it.
  20. I rebuilt a 1926 Packard straight eight years ago and did have the head surfaced before assembly. But I had a terrible time getting a good seal. Went through three headgaskets if I recall right. Anyway a friend who rebuilds professionally said that it is tough to get a good seal on long engines like that Packard. He recommended Hylomar spray as a gasket sealer. Worked great and I always use it on everything. --Scott
  21. Could someone post the article or post the details of this test which resulted in more than 75% failure on AC spark plugs? I'm not a club member as I don't own a Cadillac-LaSalle, but I am very interested in how the test was done and which spark plugs were effected. I think we all could benefit from these results. Thanks
  22. Interesting. . . . " X stands for special or wide gap." So on an AC 48X, the electrode gap is wider than on a 48? If that's so, couldn't you just make the gap whatever width you wanted it to be? Why the special designation? Also, anyone hear of a Prestolite spark plug? What's in the Packard now are Prestolite 147's. I'd like to find out what heat range they are because they appear to be too cold. The only cross reference I can find is on sparkplug-crossreference.com which suggests they are about like an AC 45. If that's true, then I do want a hotter plug, like AC
  23. Does anyone know in the AC sparkplug nomenclature, what an "X" suffix means? What's the difference between an AC 48 and 48X? or AC 46 and 46X? I haven't found any explanation, yet. --Scott
  24. With your suggestions, I've discovered these cross reference charts. None of them cross the old AC nomenclature (K9, K12) to the new (46, 47, 48) but they might be useful for other brands. http://graylady.atwebpages.com/sparkplugs.htm http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Plugs/equiv.htm
  25. Packard service literature in the early 1930's recommends AC spark plugs--- type K9, K10 or K12 for my 1932, depending on the heat range. I've yet to find a list of what the modern designation for these plugs would be. These are 14 mm plugs but what's important is the heat range --- K9 is cooler, K12 is hotter --- and especially the reach into the cylinder. I'd like some NOS plugs. Nothing much on eBay. . . . Any suggestions? --Scott
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