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Everything posted by scott12180

  1. I think 1932 was the last year that Packard had those chrome-cover thingies on the fenders. One is for the battery box and the other for a tool box. Wonderfully convenient with easy access not only to the tools you want but the battery. Having had cars with the battery under the front or rear floor, these fender boxes are just great. I don't understand why they didn't use them right through 1937 which had the last of the swoopy fenders.
  2. The overall color scheme is actually rather handsome but lose the whitewalls fast! Such an eyesore on can otherwise good looking car.
  3. Knew I'd forget something. Yes, the car is in New York State. Upstate near Albany, NY (near southwestern Vermont).
  4. CCCA and Packard Club first place award winning (1986). Older cosmetic restoration done in authentic Midnight Blue and Countess Blue over black running gear. Attractive and practical body style with disk wheels and rear mounted spare which enhances the car’s unending lines. Recently rebuilt engine, mechanically sorted and equipped for modern driving with new tires, Arvin heater and an overdrive. Enjoy Full Classic motoring for far less than the cost of restoration, if a similar car could be found. $62,500 dwyer12180@gmail.com
  5. In the Councours d'Elegance venues, like at Pebble Beach, what does it mean if a car wins a "red ribbon"? Is that second place? Blue ribbon being first place? Or is it more complicated than that?
  6. I posted this question to the Packardinfo website pre-war forum and received a reply from "hotrodgss1" who has a similar car and is looking into the same thing. He referred me to the 1931 owners manual which is much more detailed than the 1932 owner's manual that I have. The carburetor is the same, for practical purposes. Basically all mixture adjustment is with the T-handle adjustment "R". Adjust at idle and by some miracle it's good for all speeds. Oddly, whereas the instructions which I posted above does not say much about non-idle (cruising) speeds, the 1931 owners manual says nothing at all about the Kicker Screw. Doesn't even label it ! Perhaps I need to remove the carburetor to see exactly what's going on there and set it for 7-15 thousandths. It's not obvious. Strange that there's so little information on these Detroit Lubricator 51's. No complete and unambiguous set of instructions. When it finally warms up around here I'll get the car out and try some of these adjustments.
  7. I found this page from a vintage Chilton's posted some time ago. In it they call the smaller screw a "kicker screw". (What does that mean?) And say that to adjust it, make it "0.007 to 0.015 from being flush with the flat on the pump housing". I don't know what that means. Does that mean to leave a gap of 7-15 thousandths before it contacts something? If so, what good does it do then?? Especially if you adjust the idle with the bigger screw. I see no other screw to adjust idle.
  8. Looking for the "idle screw" I see TWO screws which regulate idle. In the photo attached I show these two screws side-by-side. One is larger, the other on the right is smaller. The left larger one seems to be a stop-set-screw with a blunt end that holds the throat butterfly open. But the left one has a needle-like end to it and is longer. I can't tell what it does without removing the carburetor (which I'd rather not do). Could someone explain what these both are? What does the left one do, and what does the right one do? Obviously not the same thing since otherwise why have two screws? Thanks -- Scott
  9. Yes it is. David Frear said it will need to be adjusted once installed. But he was not able to provide instructions. I am wondering if the float is too low. So I’d like to know if there’s a spec I can reference. .... or what? I could just blindly fiddle but if someone knows so much the better.
  10. Detroit Lubricator carburetor for 1932 Packard Standard Eight
  11. I've installed a newly made factory-spec Detroit Lubricator updraft carburetor on my '32 Packard. While fiddling with the adjustments, I notice that often the car will idle fine and have plenty of smooth power when accelerating or pulling, but in a low-power cruising mode on a flat road it seems to be hesitating or has an irregular miss. Also seems to be OK when cool but gets worse as the engine gets hot. Any ideas on what would cause that? --Scott
  12. If making copies of things are difficult, just take a photograph of the chart or whatever with your iPhone or a digital camera. Make sure it's a high resolution photo -- large size, many bytes --- in good white light, and send it as a jpeg. Chances are you will be able to zoom in and read even the fine print.
  13. What is the "giveway" that you see on the exhaust? How is it different from the smaller engine?
  14. There is a car for sale somewhat locally which the seller calls a 1940 Century. I have not seen it in person, but in the photos how do I tell if it really is a Century? I've attached the firewall data plate. Could one of you please let me know what model this really is? If it's a century, how do you know? I thought Century models were "model 60". This appears to say model 40 or 48. The car is on Hemmings: https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/buick/century/2041308.html Thanks -- Scott
  15. Hi --- Very cool that you are restoring a Franklin in Poland. How it got there and its history would be very appreciated to share. I hope that one day you can write an article for the Club publication, "Air Cooled News". Which brings to mind, I am the editor/writer of the newsletter -- Franklin Service Station. I do not see you listed on my membership mailing list. So I would recommend that you join the Franklin Club. See www.franklincar.org The reasons for joining is, first, that you will have access to new and older publications, and through the Service Station you can post for whatever parts you are looking for or information you need. But more importantly for you, you will receive the club roster of members. I see no one in Poland, but there are 15 members throughout continental Europe including several "neighbors" in Germany and Latvia. You can also look up the names of other '32 Franklin owners. Best of luck with the project. Again, you certainly do have the coolest Franklin in Poland ! --Scott
  16. Is there a way to repair or patch up small sections of older lacquer paint which have begun to flake off? I have a small section of nickel and dime sized spots where the paint has flaked off.
  17. Glad that you went to see that Olympic and posted a few photos. When I got the ad, I wrote to the seller asking for some photos and suggesting that perhaps the price was a tad optimistic based on the description of the condition. I see that I was correct. I received no reply . Today I got a accusatory letter saying that I got the phone number wrong (and maybe this was why the car never sold) and I should run the ad again in the Service Station. I will do that. And rather than posting the phone number here for every scammer in the world to see, I invite anyone interested to write to me and I'll forward to them the correct contact information. I hope that after an adequate dose of reality sets in the car can go to a good home for restoration. I agree that a V-front Olympic would be quite a handsome car.
  18. Looking for the air cleaner --- can and goose neck --- for an updraft Detroit Lubricator carburetor, as in the photograph. Application is for a 1932 Standard Eight. Thanks --- email to dwyer12180@gmail.com
  19. Looking for the air cleaner -- can and goose neck -- which fits an updraft Detroit Lubricator carburetor. Application is for a 1932 Standard Eight Packard. See the photo. Thanks E-mail to: dwyer12180@gmail.com
  20. Amen and Amen! I have been saying this for almost as long as I’ve been in the hobby. It is such a shame that dealers list cars and try to sell them for absolutely absurd prices and they just languish for sale for months and months if not years and years. Everyone can probably think of cars right now for sale at absurdly expensive prices yet the dealers will not budge on the price. It is a terrifically great disservice to the hobby and will hurt everyone in the end.
  21. Does anyone know if there are any Franklin regional meets planned -- definite or tentative? In addition to the Trek, Westrek and Midwest meets, in the past there have been meets in places like: Long Island Louisiana Florida New England Canada and other little gatherings around the country. --Scott
  22. Well said Matt. Its not always the old car guy who has an inflated value of a car’s worth. As suggested the family may also think a car is worth huge money which only makes it harder on everyone. Some years ago a dear friend many years my senior was selling his collection bit by bit. He had a Franklin which I really liked but being young I did not own a house and had no storage for the car. We agreed on a price, however, with the understanding that when I was ready I could acquire the car as we agreed. He gave me a written letter to that effect and had a copy in his personal papers. My friend died suddenly shortly after. Within a couple of years I had settled down and had a house with garage. When I approached the family I was turned away because they felt the car was worth more than we agreed to. They said I could make an offer but I did not because I felt our agreed to price was fair if not even more than the car was worth at market. I had nothing more to do with the family. Eventually the car was sold but I do not know to whom or the price. It took quite some time. So, an unfortunate end. I should have paid for the car and let my friend store it for me... but live and learn.
  23. I suggested my estimate of $100 shipping because when I got four new Firestone’s to replace these Bedford’s it cost only $75 to ship the four. Got them from Universal in PA.
  24. Today we commonly have Grade 2, Grade 5 and Grade 8 bolts at our disposal depending on the severity of the application. When did this distinction come about? On cars I've worked on from the teens, 20's and 30's, I've never seen any markings on a bolt to indicate its relative hardness. Even in the engine for connecting rods, main bearings or driveline. It seems back then a bolt was a bolt was a bolt. It was just the diameter that determined its strength. True? If not were there different hardness specs? If not, Was it also WWII which inaugurated the use of hardness markings on bolts?
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