scott12180

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Everything posted by scott12180

  1. I couldn't stay long to see all the cars but it appeared that there was no cut-off date to park in the cruise-in area. In other words, I think I saw cars which were made in the late 1990s and even into the 2000's. I could have brought my 2004 Toyota truck and as long as I said it was a "collector car", put it in the show. Forgive me if I came away with the wrong impression but I am new to the idea of a "cruise-in". Is that true, though, that anything and everything can be cruised in and displayed?
  2. About a month ago I drove my '32 Packard to one of the Cruise-In events held at Hemmings Motor News in Bennington Vermont. The weather was picture perfect. Which is perhaps why, even though I arrived around 4:30 pm and the event was not scheduled to start until 5:00, there were no parking places remaining. I left and drove home. So If I attempt another Cruise-In before we lose evening daylight, what time do people usually arrive for this 5:00 show? 4:00? 3:00? 2:00? One concern is that due to not-so-modern headlights I will need to leave for home at least an hour before dark, so I can't let myself get blocked in. Anyway, it seems like it could be a fun evening. . . . if I can park my car !
  3. Does the car have a 1938 engine or cylinder block? Or is the block from a 37 or 39 Super 8?
  4. Running on ancient Babbitt even if it looks good is a gamble. The stuff gets brittle and can shatter. My ‘32 Packard ran well but when I investigated a subtle knock the rod bearings literally fell apart in my hands. Insert bearings weren’t seen until the late 30’s on some cars.
  5. This car is now listed in Hemmings. See the posting for more photographs. Any questions, please write to me here or through Hemmings. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/packard/902/2116122.html
  6. I think 1932 was the last year that Packard had those chrome-cover thingies on the fenders. One is for the battery box and the other for a tool box. Wonderfully convenient with easy access not only to the tools you want but the battery. Having had cars with the battery under the front or rear floor, these fender boxes are just great. I don't understand why they didn't use them right through 1937 which had the last of the swoopy fenders.
  7. The overall color scheme is actually rather handsome but lose the whitewalls fast! Such an eyesore on can otherwise good looking car.
  8. Knew I'd forget something. Yes, the car is in New York State. Upstate near Albany, NY (near southwestern Vermont).
  9. CCCA and Packard Club first place award winning (1986). Older cosmetic restoration done in authentic Midnight Blue and Countess Blue over black running gear. Attractive and practical body style with disk wheels and rear mounted spare which enhances the car’s unending lines. Recently rebuilt engine, mechanically sorted and equipped for modern driving with new tires, Arvin heater and an overdrive. Enjoy Full Classic motoring for far less than the cost of restoration, if a similar car could be found. $62,500 dwyer12180@gmail.com
  10. In the Councours d'Elegance venues, like at Pebble Beach, what does it mean if a car wins a "red ribbon"? Is that second place? Blue ribbon being first place? Or is it more complicated than that?
  11. I posted this question to the Packardinfo website pre-war forum and received a reply from "hotrodgss1" who has a similar car and is looking into the same thing. He referred me to the 1931 owners manual which is much more detailed than the 1932 owner's manual that I have. The carburetor is the same, for practical purposes. Basically all mixture adjustment is with the T-handle adjustment "R". Adjust at idle and by some miracle it's good for all speeds. Oddly, whereas the instructions which I posted above does not say much about non-idle (cruising) speeds, the 1931 owners manual says nothing at all about the Kicker Screw. Doesn't even label it ! Perhaps I need to remove the carburetor to see exactly what's going on there and set it for 7-15 thousandths. It's not obvious. Strange that there's so little information on these Detroit Lubricator 51's. No complete and unambiguous set of instructions. When it finally warms up around here I'll get the car out and try some of these adjustments.
  12. I found this page from a vintage Chilton's posted some time ago. In it they call the smaller screw a "kicker screw". (What does that mean?) And say that to adjust it, make it "0.007 to 0.015 from being flush with the flat on the pump housing". I don't know what that means. Does that mean to leave a gap of 7-15 thousandths before it contacts something? If so, what good does it do then?? Especially if you adjust the idle with the bigger screw. I see no other screw to adjust idle.
  13. Looking for the "idle screw" I see TWO screws which regulate idle. In the photo attached I show these two screws side-by-side. One is larger, the other on the right is smaller. The left larger one seems to be a stop-set-screw with a blunt end that holds the throat butterfly open. But the left one has a needle-like end to it and is longer. I can't tell what it does without removing the carburetor (which I'd rather not do). Could someone explain what these both are? What does the left one do, and what does the right one do? Obviously not the same thing since otherwise why have two screws? Thanks -- Scott
  14. Yes it is. David Frear said it will need to be adjusted once installed. But he was not able to provide instructions. I am wondering if the float is too low. So I’d like to know if there’s a spec I can reference. .... or what? I could just blindly fiddle but if someone knows so much the better.
  15. Detroit Lubricator carburetor for 1932 Packard Standard Eight
  16. I've installed a newly made factory-spec Detroit Lubricator updraft carburetor on my '32 Packard. While fiddling with the adjustments, I notice that often the car will idle fine and have plenty of smooth power when accelerating or pulling, but in a low-power cruising mode on a flat road it seems to be hesitating or has an irregular miss. Also seems to be OK when cool but gets worse as the engine gets hot. Any ideas on what would cause that? --Scott
  17. If making copies of things are difficult, just take a photograph of the chart or whatever with your iPhone or a digital camera. Make sure it's a high resolution photo -- large size, many bytes --- in good white light, and send it as a jpeg. Chances are you will be able to zoom in and read even the fine print.
  18. What is the "giveway" that you see on the exhaust? How is it different from the smaller engine?
  19. There is a car for sale somewhat locally which the seller calls a 1940 Century. I have not seen it in person, but in the photos how do I tell if it really is a Century? I've attached the firewall data plate. Could one of you please let me know what model this really is? If it's a century, how do you know? I thought Century models were "model 60". This appears to say model 40 or 48. The car is on Hemmings: https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/buick/century/2041308.html Thanks -- Scott
  20. Hi --- Very cool that you are restoring a Franklin in Poland. How it got there and its history would be very appreciated to share. I hope that one day you can write an article for the Club publication, "Air Cooled News". Which brings to mind, I am the editor/writer of the newsletter -- Franklin Service Station. I do not see you listed on my membership mailing list. So I would recommend that you join the Franklin Club. See www.franklincar.org The reasons for joining is, first, that you will have access to new and older publications, and through the Service Station you can post for whatever parts you are looking for or information you need. But more importantly for you, you will receive the club roster of members. I see no one in Poland, but there are 15 members throughout continental Europe including several "neighbors" in Germany and Latvia. You can also look up the names of other '32 Franklin owners. Best of luck with the project. Again, you certainly do have the coolest Franklin in Poland ! --Scott
  21. Is there a way to repair or patch up small sections of older lacquer paint which have begun to flake off? I have a small section of nickel and dime sized spots where the paint has flaked off.
  22. Glad that you went to see that Olympic and posted a few photos. When I got the ad, I wrote to the seller asking for some photos and suggesting that perhaps the price was a tad optimistic based on the description of the condition. I see that I was correct. I received no reply . Today I got a accusatory letter saying that I got the phone number wrong (and maybe this was why the car never sold) and I should run the ad again in the Service Station. I will do that. And rather than posting the phone number here for every scammer in the world to see, I invite anyone interested to write to me and I'll forward to them the correct contact information. I hope that after an adequate dose of reality sets in the car can go to a good home for restoration. I agree that a V-front Olympic would be quite a handsome car.
  23. Looking for the air cleaner --- can and goose neck --- for an updraft Detroit Lubricator carburetor, as in the photograph. Application is for a 1932 Standard Eight. Thanks --- email to dwyer12180@gmail.com
  24. Looking for the air cleaner -- can and goose neck -- which fits an updraft Detroit Lubricator carburetor. Application is for a 1932 Standard Eight Packard. See the photo. Thanks E-mail to: dwyer12180@gmail.com
  25. Amen and Amen! I have been saying this for almost as long as I’ve been in the hobby. It is such a shame that dealers list cars and try to sell them for absolutely absurd prices and they just languish for sale for months and months if not years and years. Everyone can probably think of cars right now for sale at absurdly expensive prices yet the dealers will not budge on the price. It is a terrifically great disservice to the hobby and will hurt everyone in the end.