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Posts posted by scott12180

  1. Never thought to post this here, but why not. . .


    I'm looking for a comfortable closed car of the 1930's.  Looked at Packards, Pierces, Cadillac. . .  but don't want a car approaching six figures.  Want a good quality car that can be used as a grocery-getter.  Just have fun driving, owning, sitting in the back seat. 


    One car I like is the Buick for various reasons.  And the '38 is my favorite.  And of that, the Roadmaster has the size and feel that I'm after,

    To make matters worse, I really want a car WITHOUT sidemounts.  No sidemounts.  Most people like them.  I don't.  I'm a bit odd, I guess.


    The other very handsome car in my mind is a 1937 Cadillac.  Again, I like the bigger car, like the 70-series.  And NO sidemounts.  Probably impossible to find such a car.


    So there you have it:  '38 Buick Roadmaster or '37 Cadillac 70-Series with no sidemounts.  Must be turn key, ready to drive.  Nicer the better. 


    Thanks --- Luke

    • Like 1
  2. Not sure how active this forum is, but it will be helpful if even a few of you could reply here when you received your June Service Station AND where do you live.


    In response to the glacial service by your government with Bulk Rate Mail, we thought we'd try first class mailing this time.  But is it doing any good?  My goal was to have everyone (in the USA, at least) have their Service Station by June 1st.  If that can't be met there is no point is spending the bucks on first class.


    Again, please reply when you received it and where you live.


    Thanks --- Luke

  3. Good reference.  Thank you. 


    I do agree that most older restorations out there were restored for show and not to drive.  "Restored" meant pretty new paint, upholstery and top.  If it ran, that's all that was required.  Every car I've owned without exception has needed to have the engine rebuilt.  I would dearly love to buy a car that looks good and runs well from day one so that I can just enjoy it.  I suppose that's asking too much. 


    So yes, with a Cadillac 12 and any of the big Classics, unless you know the history, who restored it, who rebuilt the engine, how it was rebuilt, how it was maintained, was it recently driven. . . it's most likely more than anyone with less than a Jay Leno checkbook wants to get into. 


    -- Luke

  4. I'm hoping that some knowledgeable Cadillac guys could share a few thoughts, as I asked.


    Yes, I realize all old cars are crap.  I've been doing this for 40 years and can attest that much. 

    Like Ed, all of my cars have indeed run at their very best.  Except when they don't.

    I'd prefer to be a little more positive and encouraging than blanket statements that No, I can't service, tune or repair a Cadillac Twelve myself.   I agree that some old car owners out there appear to not know which end of a screwdriver to hold, and they would always be in need of professional help to even change their oil.  I've owned several antiques and classics and rebuilt many engines.  I may not be as talented as some, but anyone who is willing to learn should be encouraged to give it a try.


    What I am after is not design flaws.  I'm sure these are good engines, as are most of the fine Classics.  But , I am curious along the lines if there are aspects which may be a concern.  For instance,  Packard Twelves had aluminum cylinder heads which are a corrosion issue today.  The 1933 Pierce Arrow with the Timken worm rear axle can be a problem today depending on how well lubricated they were.The 1938 Packard Super 8 engine is notorious for having cylinder block cracking due to metallurgical problems of the day.    The latter I discovered after I bought the car.  


    So I'd like to become as educated as I can before I buy something.  Maybe there is nothing about the Cadillac engines of the '30's that were a concern.  Just normal wear and the ham-fisted abuse from shade tree mechanics of old. 


    You guys are a great wealth of experience.  And I, as well as everyone else I'm sure, appreciates the sharing we do.


    -- Luke

  5. Hi All ---

    Could someone tell me the low-down on the Cadillac Twelve of the 1930's?

    I'm curious if these are sound, reliable engines or do they have certain hidden and costly gremlins which will haunt you.  Such as the Packard's aluminum cylinder heads and complicated valve train or the many problems of Lincoln twelves. 


    I've not owned one --- had several straight eights -- but have considered Packard Twelves and Pierce Twelves.  And have started thinking about a Cadillac.


    Thanks for any insights, either public or PM.


    -- Luke

  6. You're right.  I've been comparing photographs and that panel is much longer on the hood side.

    The number of louvers is 33 on both the CP and CH, so that doesn't help.


    The other aspect is the engine itself.  If you are just looking at a photograph, the small eight CP has the distributor coming out the side of the engine --- driver's side or left side.  The 385 CH engine has the distributor coming out the top, through the cylinder head. 

    The thermostatic radiator shutter control is also different on the CH versus CP. 


    But as far as I can tell, from the hood back, there appear to be no differences.

  7. Could someone tell me the workings of the Hone aftermarket overdrive from the 60's and 70's?

    Did these contain their own oil supply, or did they depend on circulation from the main transmission?

    And were these effectively a gear splitter in that they could be engaged at any speed, even in reverse?  Or did you need to get up to a certain speed and then you could engage them? 


    Thanks --- Luke

  8. Hi --- I'm new to Zephyrs but interested in a car that I found.

    The car is a 1942.  I have some concern because I've heard the '42 has a unique engine or something different about it.  Did they bore it out larger or do something to change it for that year only?  And if so, was this a good change or does it bring a host of problems that are not found on other Zephyrs.  Are they reliable or prone to cracking or . . . .?


    My motivation is that at one time I owned a '38 Packard Super 8.  Later I learned the reason why the engine was bad ---- they are all prone to cracking of the cylinder block due to metallurgical problems with that year only.  I don't want  to be surprised when I buy another car.


    I am looking for a good driver-quality car.  Don't want a project or need to rebuild an engine.  Just do maintenance and needed repairs, and drive the car.


    Feel free to PM me if your comments may not be taken kindly by '42 owners !

    I'd just like to learn the ins and outs of these cars.

    Thanks --- Luke

  9. I've got to agree with everyone so far.

    My two cents ---- it depends on where you live.  If you are in an arid climate like Tucson or Vegas, then an outside cover to protect the car from the sun and dust may be fine. 

    Everyone's comments seem to apply to where I live -- the damp northeast.

    In that case ventilation or circulation of air is the most important.  If the cover gets soaking wet in a storm and it's humid for the next week or more, that water will not dry off.  The damp cover will be against the paint and will hold the moisture in. 

    Having kept cars and motorcycles outdoors over the years I agree that a tent or canopy to keep the rain off is the best.  Then air can circulate and dry it quickly. 


    As said, if it's only four months, I'd consider a storage mall or rental garage.  Might be expensive month-to-month but how much is a car cover?  How much is a tent or canopy? 


    - Luke

  10. What everyone said above.

    Makes a huge difference if you are selling big brass, Model A Fords, 1960's muscle cars or six figure Classics.

    Different dealers/brokers tend to specialize in different eras and makes, as does the clientele they interact with.  Look on their websites and see if your cars fit in with their inventory.


    Appraisals are OK but please understand that most appraisals that I've seen come in much higher than what a car would actually sell for.  Most appraisals, in my opinion, are for insurance purposes or to value an estate.  "Feel good" appraisals are also common.  People will hire an appraiser who says their cars are worth lots of money over an appraiser who says they aren't.


    No car is worth more than what someone will pay you for it.  Sounds like a cliche, but I've seen  many families trying to sell Dad's cars for huge prices because "the appraisal said it was worth that much".  And the cars sit sometimes for years and deteriorate from improper storage or disuse.  So it all depends on if you want to sell promptly, within a few months, or have the luxury of holding out for years.


     -- Scott

    • Like 2
  11. I'm looking to transport a large 1920's open car from Houston, Texas to Albany, NY. 

    I've used Clark Roan twice and would like to again, but none of his contact information is currently working.  Does anyone know Clark?


    Otherwise, does someone have a good recommendation for enclosed transport? 

    I am looking for door-to-door service without the car being moved from one truck to another.  Basically one truck, more-or-less direct service. 


    I posted to the Towing Wanted section, but thought someone could give a recommendation based on past experience.


    Thanks --- Scott


  12. On 2/18/2019 at 12:13 PM, oldcarnut said:

    Jim.Tires are 34/4, rear axel is 2.75 to 1. on the Speedsters. engines turn 3000RPM. Ralph Mulford drove a stock Super 6 102.5 MPH over a measured mile. A new stock car record. A stock chassis won its class at Pikes Peak, and held it for 8 years. stock car racing goes on and on for the Super6.


    Not that I want to challenge the seller, but 2.75 rear end is a little hard to believe.  With that low of a ratio power should be next to nothing, especially in a four passenger Touring. The Pierce 66 had a similar ratio but had an engine the size of the Titanic, nearly three times bigger.  This Hudson engine at 3-1/2x5 is big but not that big.  Same size as the Packard Six in 1928.


    3.75 sounds about right for a fast car from around 1920.


    I would like to see a reference for that 2.75 figure.  I'm poking around but haven't found anything yet.  "classiccardatabase.com" says 4.75:1.  A 1921 "Automotive Industries" magazine with specifications for all cars lists Hudson Super six as 4.90 !


    4.75 or 4.90 sounds way too slow,  but with a very smooth counterbalanced engine they may have acquired their fast speed through very high rpm's.   Perhaps the Speedster is geared taller.     I hope someone can provide that confirmation.



  13. I often wonder what the actually selling price of Stanleys is these days. 

    You sometimes see cars advertised for months and months, if not years.  And no one is buying. 

    Have they lost some of their appeal? 

    I don't know and am not speculating. 

    I've always wanted a Stanley as well, and have always been put off by the price tags.  But everything goes in cycles.  Perhaps Stanleys have seen their day in the sun and collectors with that much money to spend are buying other things.

    There's a nice looking Model 70 currently for sale for around $150,000.  But to be honest, if I had that much money to spend, there's a whole lot of other stuff out there that you can just get in and drive without any hassle.  

    Maybe it's just me getting old !


    -- Luke

    • Like 2
  14. Matt's comments are quite sound.

    A while back there was a car advertised here for an astoundingly high price, and several people counseled the seller to that effect.  It has been advertised lower and lower, and now myself having sold a car it interests me.  So I wrote asking if the car was available and for photos. I even stated what I wanted to see.


    I got two photos both which were posted on this forum.

    So I asked again. . . . could you please send me, etc .etc. . .

    I got two more photos.  No more information.


    I recommended that the fellow look at various dealer's websites to see how they represent cars, how they take photos, what they take photos of, how many.  That he should write up a detailed history of the car and it's condition, and all that.

    I referenced Matt Harwood as I feel Matt is a decent guy who does represent his cars well.  Perhaps this fellow will consign the car to Matt. 


    Anyway, being a buyer, I find it just as annoying to try to get information out of a seller as sellers do entertaining tire kickers.  Dealers do have their role to play and can be an asset to the hobby, so long at their prices are reasonable, with reasonable profits figured in, and their cars are really cars for sale.  Meaning,  put in the price !  This "Inquire" bullshit you see so much of drives me nuts.  As Jack M also said, I won't "inquire".  I just assume it's too expensive or the dealer is fishing for an appraisal.  For sale means for sale.


    -- Luke

    • Like 3
  15. Considering how much abused the term "barn find" is these days,

    THIS, gentlemen, is what Barn Find means.


    The description is a little odd, though.   Is the car being sold as it is shown, or is this just as it was found and now it's in some other storage, all inventoried and cleaned up? 


    -- Luke

  16. I was going to post a question to the general section of this forum, but I'll ask here:

    This 836 Club Sedan is a CCCA National First Prize winner  -- 100 points, allegedly.

    So is this consistent with the fact that the car has all around tinted glass? 

    Would this car receive an AACA Senior award with tinted glass?


    I find it hard to believe the owner replaced all the glass after doing the show circuit.  To replace all that glass and return it to clear glass seems to be a huge project.  The risk of damaging something is sobering.

    And no, it's not a peel-off lamination.  We checked. . .  it's real, tinted glass.


    -- Luke

  17. Just a general question on the 305 cubic inch Zephyr engine for 1942.  I've heard that by boring out the block to be a 305, these engines are prone to cracking.  That's one reason why after the War they went back to the 292, I understand.


    If one were to find a running 1942 Zephyr which has been been rebuilt, would you have a risk that the block may crack under normal use? 


    For instance, I once owned a 1938 Packard Super 8, and learned that these blocks are prone to cracking.  If you're engine isn't cracked now, it probably will be soon if you drive it much. 


     -- Luke

  18. I'm looking into having a big early 1930's Club Sedan upholstered -- wool broadcloth. 

    The original upholstery is there, just too ratty to be comfortably used.

    I'm not looking for Pebble Beach quality, mostly driver quality but I want it done right and done well. 


    Does anyone know of someone doing this kind of work in the northeast?  I'm in Albany, NY.


    Thanks --- Luke



  19. I'm going to replace the ignition coil on my 32 Packard. I just bought a new 6v coil.

    The coil on the car now is not necessarily mounted where it would have been originally.  It's inside the passenger compartment, on the dashboard, mounted horizontally. 


    What I'm wondering is, is the orientation of the coil important?

    This coil has presumably oil onside because when I shake it I can hear a liquid sloshing around.

    That being said, can it be mounted horizontally or even upside down?  Or must it be mounted upright?


    Thanks -- Luke

  20. I have a new distributor cap for a 1930's Packard that I stupidly dropped off the table.  When it hit the ground it broke into several pieces. Oh well.  It happens sometimes.


    But has anyone found a glue or some other method to repair a cracked or broken distributor cap so it won't arc? 

    I hate to give up on it without trying something.


    Thanks -- Luke

  21. Thanks, guys,  for your advice on the coil.

    Youv'e made me realize that the ignition wires are at least 40 years old, and yes they are stuffed into in a metal conduit or loom.  It's not too much of a stretch to imagine that I could very well be getting some arcing in there.


    And since I've no idea of the history of the coil, I'm going to get a new coil and ignition wire as well.  At least I can eliminate that source of trouble.


    -- Luke

  22. Does anyone have a recommendation for an appropriate 6 volt ignition coil for a 1930's Eight cylinder Packard?


    I recall reading somewhere that you do not want to use the "Flame Thrower" coils with an old-style point-and-condenser system as these coils require an electronic ignition system to operate properly.  Any thoughts on that?


    But basically I think that any six volt coil should be fine for a 1930's car.  My gut says to avoid the super-high voltage coils since my ignition wires are stuffed into a metal conduit and there's a possibility for arc-ing inside.


    -- Luke

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