Classic Cars

I must be doing something wrong as I checked to see who handles this type of request and also if a form is needed to be filled out. I sent an e-mail and received a reply thanking me for inquiring. I was told it takes 2-4 wks to reply and I could check out outside research fees at BF research. I need an address,who to make a check to and some way to tell them what I am after.I have all the info about the car but don't know what to do with it. HELP

How did you obtain this as I would like to get one also.

I have only the ignition key(works) but does not work for doors or trunk or glove compartment.Removed cylinder from trunk and glove compartment, how do you remove the door cylinder. Are these cylinders similar to Ford(55 T-Birds etc) as I can order these. Found a stamp number on the glove compartment cylinder, is this the number for making a new key ?. Are the ignition and door keys the same ? Thx for any info.

Thanks for all your help. I wemt back to Jake Fleming and got his hot wire start relay and wish to tell everyone that it really works. Just ran into a new problem when I raised the window on the passenger side ( it didnt work) I found it had what I thought what was a paint overspray.Unfortunately it appears this was a sand blast that hit the window. Has anyone had any luck in trying to remove the scratches. Its very light but noticeable. THX

After pulling front wheels, have found shoes are mounted that long lined shoe is on front of drum on one wheel and short lined shoe is in front on other. These are riveted shoes and I thought the primary ( long lined shoe ) was always in front. Am I wrong? Thx for your help.

You guys are a big help and I will bring you up to date. I got her running today for about a half an hour. The engine just died and wouldn't start again. It could be fuel as I was feeding out of a 5 gal. can. Will give another try tomarrow. I read all of your suggestions and proceeded as follows. Added another ground cable to engine to body. Pulled spark plugs, wiped clean, checked gap and torqued to 18#. Pulled carb and changed power valve, charged new battery to 6.45 volts. Tried start and noticed the starter seemed faster and finally had engine catch, amen. Engine sounded good after it warmed up.Idle screws now respond and spark looked very good. When engine died, I have had this happen before and always figured it was fuel problem but now think I may have coil braking down as spark looked bad. Jake checked coil when he set up distributor before and now awaiting his hot spark relay for starting. Am not home yet but the V12 was music to my ears today. I will keep you posted. THX again.

I have sent dist to Jake Fleming and had engine running. Still had hard starting and looked for furthur improvements. Spark was weak and not same on all cylinders. Replaced ignition resistor, condensors, new terminal plates and installed a carb repair kit all to no avail. Have question quality of gas in tank so now am running line from five gallon tank.I pulled the starter and can't see anything (not tested, was new rebuilt when I got car) Have now replaced battery eve vn tho it tested ok. Have seen slight improvement in starter speed.Still won't sart but seems close. Have checked voltage at coil posts and get 6.1 and 2.97 with ignition on.Would like to know how put 12 volts to starter but not affect points or coil. I have put 2 6volt batteries in parallel to overcome posible weak battery but have seen no change in starter speed. Spark is weak on both banks when turning over. I have run out of ideas, hope there is some smarts out there. THX

Thanks for the advice. I found the power valve was leaking and replaced it with the other valve that was supplied in the rebuild kit. My question now is what effect will this have if the valve is the wrong size? the valve that was leaking looked like the old one, while the second one has a different appearance but fits. I can't find a number on either so I am not sure which one is correct?

I have a leaking carb after using a rebuild kit. The gas appears at the carb base below the accelerator pump linkage. I have rechecked the float level and appears ok. The base gasket (1/2'' ) spacer looks wet but don't know whether its from the carb base or if its coming from the outside of the carb. I would like to replace the spacer but don't know where to find one. I just replaced the condensers, ignition resistor, and put on a hot start relay from Jake Fleming. Have weak spark, Jake has set distributor, car has started but still appears to not run well. After recent changes I can't get it to start. Also order new terminal plates but haven't received yet. I'm stuck, any suggestions. THX

I am replacing the old strip that is damaged with a new one with new screws and 2 clips that are not on the old one. My question is I end up with about 5 inches of strip on each end, no holes left to screw into and the clips that appear to go on the ends. I need a picture or an illustration to show what to do with the ends. The chassis parts book only lists the part no. THX

I also am having some same problems with the gas gauge reading on a 48. I replaced the sending unit which was not grounded or have a condenser attached? I have also removed the dash unit which does respond to a bench test. When I reassembled everything ( grounded sending unit but no condenser, don't have one) the gauge appears to read correctly with ignition on and engine not running. However, when I start engine, the gauge increases to full as it appears to be reacting to the charge as shown on the ammeter. I have checked to see if I have screwed up the wiring under dash but can't seem to see anything. Any ideas?

Was working on instruments under dash and notice spark at ammeter. Wiring has lost insulation at loops on ammeter. I havent seen what this should look like when loom was new or how wire is supposed to go thru loops of ammeter. Can I just wrap tape around bare wire and put thru loops again? Dont want to get new loom at this time.

Has anyone recently bought, reworked, installed lifters. I tried to email a source for new lifters on the forumn but did not get a reply. From what I gathered the new are not available any more. Are the reconditioned ones any good? Your reply would be appreciated. THX

Has anyone recently bought lifters? (new or reconditioned) I am currently looking as this is my next step to solve my propblem. THX.

Thanks for the reply on the lifters. I have done everything you have suggested, except putting in oil in the cleaned lifters. It appears there is two schools of thought on this and the factory repair manual says they should be dry on reassembly. My next step is to pull heads and manifold and try to find some new (rebuilt) lifters. Should I replace gaskets or could I use the new ones I recently put on? Also, must I try to do the .030 - . 050 gap measurement. THX

I started this project over a year and a half ago and unfortunately am dissapointed with my reults. The engine was pulled, bearings - rod and mains, new cam, rebuilt pump,lifter housings reground, fuel pump bushing & rod replaced, relief valves(oil) replaced. When I went to reassemble engine and raised question about clearance between lifter and valve stem. I have some question as to was it necessary to have the .030-.050 using hydraulics. I tried to make measurement but could not get good readings. Finally gave up and think this may have been my downfall. HELP Note! Lifters were were taken apart and cleaned, oil pressure good, rear wheels jacked up and ran for an hour, all to no avail.

I am assembling the rebuilt engine and question as to whether the distributor could be incorrectly installed on the cam, As I currently see the slot in the cam, how do I know when mating the distributor, am I correct or 180 degrees out of phase. THX

I am in need of the canister and element, have new lines, original filter was missing when car was bought. Found ford filter, but find mounting bracket is not going to work. Also have no info on where it is mounted or what outlets on block are used. Appreciate any help you can offer.Have just put valves back in block and am confused as to how to measure clearance between bottom of valve and top of hydraulic lifter. Recomended .030-.070 with cam heel at bottom but can't tell if at absolute bottom or what feeler gauge will get in that space????? Is this measurement necessary. New cam and some lifters have been refaced.

I am starting engine rebuild with rod ,mains, cam and reground lifters.Tried to get oil pump rebuild kit but was told not available. Alternative is have Egge rebuild mine or order high volume 80# pump from Brown. Has anyone else had this decision? Suggestions.

This engine does not have a filter or any brackets to position one. Would like to buy complete with lines and element or parts if necessary. Would appreciate any info as to where to find. THX

I have an attachment that fits over the ends of the spring and has 2 adjusting bolts that attach to a circular extension spring that when tightened appears to pull the ends of the leaf spring together. Was this a common remedy for a sagging front spring? Shoud I leave it on,or look to see what the spring does when its removed?

I am using mechanical gauge to measure oil pressure and have allready jacked up rear wheels and ran for 20 minutes. ( 3 times) I have also found old parts- 2 valves, springs and some lifters and timing gear and invoices for fuel pump and rod. When I bought car 14 years ago previous owner claimed the engine had been rebuilt but he said don't drive until oil pressure problem was fixed. I think I have exhausted all the hints I read or heard of, but figure this forum is worth a try. thx

Have just begun to restore a 48 v12 Lincoln continental. Low oil pressure, changed oil to 20w50 and am now getting 25 to 30 ps1 at idle when oil is warm. Lifters are less noisy and seem to be loud only towards front of engine. LOOKING FOR SUGESTIONS BEFORE PULLING ENGINE.