juanatejeda

Well, I do know that LAPD used Olds and Dodge for their high performance freeway cars (Freeway Flyers). They were strictly used on the Freeways, mostly the Harbor Freeway, 101 and Golden State in the downtown areas. They had that calibrated speed-o-meter / Tach-0-meter, roll cages, and five point, racing seat belts. They gave them up when the CHP took over the Freeways around 1970 when the , then, new CHP Office opened just off the Harbor Freeway, downtown. I am sure they were Olds and Dodge, just don't remember what year and models they used. I want to try and restore one for show purposes. Need accurate info as I want it to be authentic.

I have a 28 Four Screen and am wondering if they had a Right Turn Arm on the right side of the truck, not sure what they were called, but the driver could pull a string or chain and the arm would raise to indicate to vehicles next to him that he was turning right. My truck has a hole of the front side of the bed just behind the passenger door, about 1/2 to 3/4" dis and three smaller holes on the body of the cab in the same area. I have no idea what else they could have been for. Any one with an idea, I would appreciate the help and where I might locate one of those right turn arms, f that is what the holes were for. Thanks you.

Cn you help ID this car. All I have a picture of a Dash, it is one of the Police cars used by LAPD to patrol the Freeways, back when they had the freeway s through L.A. They used Olds and Dodge, Late maybe middle 50's through the 60's. Would like to fide out Make and model. <fieldset class="postcontent" style="margin: 5px 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; word-wrap: break-word; "></fieldset>

Cn you help ID this car. All I have a picture of a Dash, it is one of the Police cars used by LAPD to patrol the Freeways, back when they had the freeway s through L.A. They used Olds and Dodge, Late maybe middle 50's through the 60's. Would like to fide out Make and model.

Just a little follow-up. We have, apparently, solved the problem. Took the carburetor apart and found that the float was sticking. Cleaned up the bowl and adjusted the float and it seems to be working fine. We did, also find that there was a vacuum fitting on the holding tank that was loose and may have been adding to the problem. Also repaired our Starter, replaced with a stand-by that I had acquired a few years back and it was a working Starter, so we will have the one we pulled out rebuilt and probably hold on to it as a spare. Thanks to everyone that offered advice.

I may have a spare North East Starter off of a 1927 Dodge Brothers Four Screen, 6V. I'll have to dig it out. Not sure what the condition is. Presently working on my own Starter and may be needing some parts; Bendix Spring may be broken as it spins freely but won't engage and start the engine. Do you have any parts that I may be able to use? Would consider some trade, if you still need the starter I have. juantejeda@yahoo.com

Picture of the Starter and where it's located. Thanks

Found a loose fitting, Copper line going from the carb vacuum to the Fuel Vacuum Reservoir. Tightened it and when I went to try to start it, the Starter gave out. Guessing it's the Bendix Spring as I can hear the Starter spinning but it's not engaging. Does anyone know about these Starters, easy or hard fix. Are the springs (Bendix) even available. If they are does anyone have a source for them? Again, I have a drive train, chassis that appears to have been assembled in 26, the ID Plate shows that it came off the assembly line in Oct of 27. The Starter motor is mounted on the driver's side of the engine. Any help would be appreciated.

My system is all original. The intake was recently replaced and seems to be working fine.

At first it was noted when driving on the road, but not on a long trip, just from my home to a show a couple of miles away. Mechanic evaluated the problem and at first thought it was an electrical problem and made some checks and adjustments to the points and condenser. Ran fine for awhile but the problem came back again and again they checked the Distributor and made some adjustments, after checking the points and condenser and coil. It was narrowed down to being a fuel problem. The carburetor appears to be OK and there is fuel getting to the carburetor. Fuel was found in the bowl. When the engine stalled again they were able to get it started again by using Ether and introducing it through the Air intake. The fuel system is not an electric system. It has the original gravity flow and Vacuum feed system. It does not sit down immediately and seems to run Ok until you put it under driving conditions. Today we had it running and when I drove it into the trailer for transport, again it stalled as I pulled it into the trailer. We need to find out if there are re-build kits for the carburetor before we tear into the carb.

I am having a problem with my 4 screen. It appears to be starving itself of fuel. It will run and then it will start coughing and backfiring a little and then it just stops running. The problem does not seem to be electrical and after it stops running I can get it running again, but I need to introduce Ether to the intake in order to get it running again, then it goes through the same sequence. It will run fine for awhile but eventually it will start coughing and sputtering and will stop running again. Any ideas will be appreciated.

Does anyone know what current paint manufacturer makes the green engine paint for a 1927 Dodge Brothers Four Screen Express. If you have a paint number and manufacturer, I can get a local paint supplier to make me some, but I need the original manufacturer and paint number or a current manufacturer and paint number. I know that it is available through some of the parts houses, but I would like to buy it local. I can probably take a chip to Napa and have them make me a batch, if I can't find the info. Thanks!

59 Thunderbird, rear air shocks, with dual valve. Also a set of front shocks. email at juantejeda@yahoo.com

Took everything apart, one last time. reassembled as per diagram and instructions I have read, several time. If nothing else, I can follow directions and read diagrams well. I am a 35 year retired cop, but did work as an electronic tech in the military (Radar Tech) and sorry to say, after reassembling it all and reinstalling the Steering Wheel,my horn still sounds as soon as I put it in place. Can't even tighten it down. I have disconnected the relay and will go without a horn, so I can at least drive my car. Thanks to all who have offered ideas. I will seek professional assistance from a local restorer, when I find one that can repair. Again tanks to everyone for your help. I guess I just can't understand what's going on.

Not sure why you say that the washers are upside down? The Nylon, triangular washer is identical on both sides. The little insert / nipple at each hole is the same ether way, at least I can't see a difference. I appears to me that it can be installed either way. Am I not seeing something?

OK, reassembled my horn, following all the instructions provided by AACA, Followed the pictures to a Tee. Sorry to say, NO GO! I seem to not have enough space between the the triangular Plate and the Lock Washer and I have continuity in all positions. I am at a loss, don't know what to do next......Any ideas. I am at a point now that I will probably just disconnect my horn, so that I can drive my car. If anyone can help, please do! Any ideas will be read and tried. Can I just keep tightening the three screws on the triangular plate and see if that will push it down some more? I'm afraid of stripping the screws...... Anyone know how much space is needed or is it just enough so that there is no continuity when measure with a meter? HELP!

OK, found the parts and have them in hand. I will be outting it all togeher and I will let you all know if it works. Thanks to all that replied.

Hello all Well I thought I had my Steering Wheel / Horn issue resolved, but alas, the other night, about midnight, my horn just started honking. Scared the crap out of the neighbors. Anyway, it appears that the three screw that hold the back plate in place are not holding anymore. Two of the three are coming loose, so I suppose the part that they screw into is stripped. I'm not sure what the parts are called, but here are some pictures, along with the screws. I need the part the screws screw into as well as all the nonconductive washers. I'm sure the screws can be found at ACE Hardware, but if someone has those I'll will take the whole lot. Let me know if anyone has them. Guess I can stay on the road by just disconnecting my horn..... Oh, and can anyone tell me if there is a spring that goes onto the Steering Column before the Steering Wheel goes on? I have a spring that fits there, but I don't think it was in place when I started.

Might you have some pictures of these cars?

Thanks 1936 D2 I think I found what I need, but I don't know if it's CCW or CW??????

That listed Web page is not good anymore. Do you have anymore info on the Pertronic Electronic Ignition?

Does anyone know if they make an electronic ignition (Points and Condenser) for these old Dodge Brothers engines? Sure would make things easier. Also, is there a newer version of the Spark Plugs?

Yes, I seem to remember reading somewhere that there was a modern replacement for the old plugs, but I don't remember where I read it. If I recall, it said that they did not have the old plug look, but worked just fine. I'll keep looking. Thanks.

Is there a replacement spark plug I can use on my 28 DB four screen?

Through the exhaust and yes it does start easy.