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Two Roadmasters

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Everything posted by Two Roadmasters

  1. Hello, I am helping a friend restoring his Super 88 and now when we deal with the engine we see some things that we hope to get some answers on. Upon checking the 371 block we see what we think is reduction rings in some cooling channels as well as channels that seem totally plugged. Does anyone in this forum know if some of the cooling channels should have these reduction rings and plugging and if so, is there some kind of logical pattern that is used for the purpose. Thanks for any input. Mats Ahrin
  2. Hi, to my knowledge the mouldings use regular moulding clips that are pressed through holes in the hood as well as the body. I used clips that had a rubber sealing inside the V-shaped spring to seal from possible water entering through the holes on the body. This had worked out very good for the last 26 years after the finishing of the restoration. Mats
  3. Hi, a motor manual that I have that is covering all american cars between 1940-1955 specifies the head torque on the straight 8 as well as the V8 to 65-70 Lbs.Ft. I think this is applicable on the -38 as well. Mats
  4. Hi Chris, if you send me a PM I think I can be of some help. I have been messing around these late 30:s Bucks for the last 35 years so I might have some information to give you regarding the radio schematics. Mats
  5. Hi Roger, your title company is correct, Buick never ended serial numbers with a letter, at least not from 1924 and onwards. My car´s serial number is 13301204, some 26500 units earlier than yours. Serial number for 1938 started at 13219848 for all cars like yours and mine made in Flint. The other two plants, Linden and South Gate had other serial number starts, Linden from 33245765 and South Gate from 23238767. Regards Mats Ahrin, Buick 1938 model 80-C Sweden
  6. Hi, This is the 5-tube Master Radio used for Buick 1936. There was also a 6-tube Ranger Radio available. That radio had much larger squared scale in the radio console. Mats Ahrin Sweden
  7. Hi Pete, it is most probably a 248 in the engine compartment. Why I say this is that if you look at the floor in the interior picture, the squared boot on top of the gear case is the Special series boot, the 320 engines had round boots. The hood of a Century is also slightly longer behind the side mouldings, while the torpedo lenght between hood and A-pillar on Roadmaster/Limited is approx 4 inches longer than on the Special/Century. Mats Ahrin, Sweden
  8. I have been using a Marvel CD2 in my -38 for the last 12 years, simply because there was no Stromberg in it when I bought it. I would say that the carb has in fact performed splendid, I know it sounds odd, but still. Once the car is started it works really good, the acceleration is top and the normal driving is of no problem. BUT, I imagine a Stromberg would be even better, especially from evaporisation and gas economy point of view, if you can talk of any economy when driving these old ones.. Once the car is turned off after a drive you have to open both hoods or the carb is totally dried out of gas. As the float material is cork, the last 70 years has made them some "heavier", thereby keeping the float level a little too high which makes it to sweat out. Like said, parts are also unavailable within normal price ranges. I have now found a AAVB267, made for the 1953 322 engine which will fit this engine as well. I will change carb and at the same time make a new routing for the gas pipe which is more off from the intake/exhaust area. I am pretty sure that this will also reduce the evaporisation tendencies.
  9. I have been able to locate the Torque Tube. In the January/February 1993 issue there is an article about this. And yes,Glenn, you are right! At the end of the article the editor puts a note where he writes that upon purchase of a well used original emblem, fractions of the original paint showed red bottom and line and black 8. When I bought my car it was the other way around, can be due to that it is custom bodied. The pin striping of the wheels for instance is different from the original 3 stipes. Only one stripe from the body workshop here. But it was good to find out the correct information about the emblem.
  10. Regarding the front bumper emblem: the 8 is red, the background and the straight line is black while the BUICK-letters are chromed, no paint as I previously wrote. Looks very goods with the 8 really glowing towards the chrome and black line. That is a real "straight 8" ain´t it?
  11. To my knowledge were the lovers painted with a very light grey colour, almost like silver. I myself painted mine silver. I have not seen any litterature were they had chrome, not even on a convertible, a not too odd thought as the window frame is chromed. The rear bumper mounts in the same position as the front bumber, with its longer part in top position. I will look up in my library to see how exactly the Buick 8 sign in front was painted from factory, from memory I think that the 8 was red as were the letters and with a black background, but I will have a look. I know that there has been an article in the Torque Tube were a still originally painted sign was described.
  12. Just for what it´s worth. The longer part of the bumpers was originally in upper position. It seems as your´s in lower position, would be a pity on an all over top restoration like this if so is the case, my apologif I´m mistaken. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
  13. Like Jeff wrote, it is essential that the foam sponge insulator between button and contact plate is in good shape. Mine was a little too soft causing the button to stay in constant contact with the plate once it was pressed and the horn was blowing all the time. I don´t know whether they do fabricate new ones now, I was able to find a new at Hershey in -93. This works out very good. I think you can make a new one by yourself if you use material similat to the ones they use in frompressed seat cushions. This is quite stiff but still soft enough.
  14. Anyone having the intermediate flange between intake manifold and carburetor for an AAV26. The one I have has a worn out shaft but the carb is OK. I will eventually change my Marvel on my -38 Roadmaster if I manage to get one. The pipe between manifold and choke house is also missing. Any help is highly appreciated. Mats Ahrin Sweden
  15. I have encountered the same thing with my 36 Roadmaster. Now I have disassembled the whole transmission and found out that the cluster gear is the one causing the noise I have. One the the gears engaging one of the gears on the cluster gear is with its teeth on the first half of the width. This might have caused the worn out teethsurface with small pits that is visible now. The oil can then "sink" into these pits and therefore there is more surface contact between the gears causing a noise. I have tried to get another cluster gear through this forum but not succeded. I have also had in mind adding metal to the surface using modern methods but as these gears are not straight cut, the company didn´t think it would last.
  16. Your car is an extremely early production car in 1938. The engine number for this year starts at 3396937 which is only 4000 cars before yours. They made more than 168000 cars that year. I wonder if the first owner had someone make the side mouldings, apart from them the car looks original Buick, which also the Fisher emblem kind of verifies. What is typical for the europeans body builders though is the dual painting which never occured when Buick made them if you did not ordered that separately. Is that the original colours? Mats
  17. I think that the best thing to do is to disassemble the rocker arm assembly, take off the rocker arms and secure that all old oil that is carbonised inside the shaft is taken out. Remember to put back the arms in the same place they had before disassembly. The oil back in those days did build up carbon inside the shaft which the additives in modern oil avoid. In my -36 rocker arm, there is also a water cooling pipe in the shaft and when I tried to take that shaft out it was stuck which means that almost no space was available for the oil to feed the rocker arms. I had to place the shaft in diesel solution for 14 days but boy, that did a wonder. All the old oil was softened up and possible to get rid off. By doing this you are also able to clean out the rocker arm feed holes as well as the grinded channels you have inside each arm that lube the whole circle of the arm. Mats
  18. Hi Kimmo, to my knowledge the Nordberg Company did not modify standard cars like this one but I must admit that the side mouldings are very similar to theirs. However, this type of side moulding is typical for all european body makers, like Gläser in Germany for instance. The figures that Dave refers to are for the convertible sedans that Nordberg did, six in the four-door style, six in the two-door style and of these six two-doors, two had parallell doors with no visible hinges. I am the owner of one of the four-doors, if you go the the BCA forum under "Me and my Buicks" you can find in beginning of June 2005 a photo of it with the story. I have been talking to the sons of the original owners of Nordberg and that has been very interesting. I know that Nordberg made cabrio-coaches on four-doors as well as coupes. They cut out the roof and had a soft top installed, the way that is so typical for Opel cars in the 50:s. Nordberg also always mounted an emblem close to the lower front door hinge which said Nordberg instead of Body by Fisher which was the standard emblem. The ID-number you refer to is the engine number, what chassi number do you have? Mine is 13301204 and engine no. is 3406952, some 6000 engines ahead of yours. Your car is an intersting car, do you have its history from start? Please keep us updated. Mats
  19. Yes, I am checking E-bay several times every day to be updated on available parts. I have seen a complete trans case but to have this one shipped to Europe without knowing the condition of it is to take a chance. Best thing is if the part is possible to check by a picture, and so far I have not seen any counter gear for sale. But all of a sudden it might dive up one. Mats Roadmaster 36-81 Roadmaster 36-80C
  20. Paul, I love hearing the v(n)oic(s)e of your -38. Reminds me of the first start up I did on my -36 in the mid 70´s. I was about your age, have had a driving licence for some years but no car so far. The first car I bought was this, to say the least, old car and my friends and family directly classed me as mad! Nowadays there is more acceptance for a hobby like this, we are doing a cultural deed by restoring these old cars. All your efforts with the brakes and now the engine is real good work and by using the knowledge from all these guys you will most certainly reach your goal, first thing I guess will be a ride down the road. After this ride you will be in heaven for a while and feel really proud, it is something special to have done a thing like this all by yourself, especially if you are a beginner not that far back in time. Keep up the good work! Mats Roadmaster 81-36 Roadmaster 80C-38
  21. Is there anyone that has a new or used counter gear for the Roadmaster gearbox? The one in my box is quite worn, which causes a lot of noise when starting. I don´t think that 1937 and onwards does suit due to that this one has needle bearings but from 1937 the bearings are not used, although I am not sure. Any help is appreciated. Mats Roadmaster 81-36 Roadmaster 80C-38
  22. John, I hope this forum will be informative and helpful for owners of prewar Buicks. I myself have one Roadmaster 4-dr Sedan from 1936, which was restored 25 years ago and one Roadmaster 4-dr Convertible Sedan, ready 11 years ago. The last one is in the forum "Me and my Buicks". Mats Ahrin Sweden
  23. Loosen the bolts that hold the torque tube to the flange. There is a universal joint but it is inside the flange. This flange is usually leaking oil. You should be able to lift the engine a little bit off the engine supports and pull towards front and the tube will come off. There might be some tightening tendencies if the angle of the tube is too for off a straight line from transmission flange and backwards. But if the rear axle is on stands and supports the body it usually works. Mats
  24. Tom, I have seen a company called Airmail Parcel Service, with a delivery time of 4-10 days. This can be OK. But it seems as there are more actors on this market. An airmail delivery time around the one described above can be cheaper with any of the proposals you have, so please check. Thanks
  25. Hi, What I need is a left hand exhaust, the right one is not a problem. I am quite convinced that a 76 Riviera big block would fit. I have specified the parts number earlier so if you could check on yours you can see whether it is the same or not. Also, if you can say yes to sell a left hand exhaust, please specify your price. This info I also would like to forward to rnoel 1969. I don´t think a 71 big block exhaust will fit but I am not sure. I guess your Le Sabre -75 is quite OK but as you write, check the part number and specify a price. I live in Sweden, we have got information on S&H so we know those figures. Your help is appreciated! Mats
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