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Two Roadmasters

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Posts posted by Two Roadmasters

  1. Hello all,

    to my knowledge Nordberg did not produce any convertibles based on the Special chassi, which I think this is. They used Roadmaster chassis and all had landau bars. The last photo is of another car than the previous ones, might be a Gläser body as they also used to have landau bars. It looks as if there is an outside luggage trunk behind the rear window. Gläser did some cars with a vertical rear wall right down from the rear window and ending lengtwise in the the middle of the rear fenders. In the space from the wall to the bumper there was a possibility to place a trunk. The car looked ok with a trunk but looked a little odd without.

    The other car might be a danish body maker, I have tried to find the name but failed. From what I remember their cars did have the very typical side moulding running from behind the door and backwards.

    Mats

  2. It seems to be an aftermarket handle because, just like you wrote Brian, this one has 5 lines. There is also another design between the chromed part and the galvanised part, the original has two extra "shoulders" standing out. This one also does not have the lid that you press the key through when you should unlock, the locking cylinder is open.

    Mats

  3. My original -36 Roadmaster has the ivory knob, just looking the same as the original -36 Special in the new March Bugle. It is another type of plastic in this year, as the one I had on my -38 was dry rotted, like all other "plastic" material from 1937 and onwards.

    Mats

  4. I´m 57 and bought my ever first owned car in 1973 when I found a -36 Roadmaster mod. 81in a junkyard here in Sweden.I was very close to have become the owner of a -39 Packard mod 1701, just the weeks before this car. But the farmer that had the Packard could never come to a decision for selling it. The -36 was beeing restored in the late 70´s and by that time it was not as easy to get hold of parts and information as nowadays. But I managed to fix it up beeing kind of manic to use every possible original part. I used nitrocellulose paint which also is a real challenge as the surface needs to be as even as a glass. This car is the only one that is driveable here. Fact is that it was sold new in USA in -36 but wnet with an immigrant into Sweden in 1937. Frame no. is 2908317 and engine no. is 83067827, which I think is a fairly early production.

    The other old car I found in 1977 was the -38 Roadmaster mod. 80C, beeing restored in the late 80`s. What I learned from the mistakes on the -36 was not repeated on this car.

    Both of these cars is a joy to drive and I can´t think of the thought of selling them as you have put your soul into them over the long restoration period. I think that you know what I mean.

    I joined the BCA in 1976 and check this forum on a daily basis. One of the many things I really enjoy is how we all try to help each other from our own experiences and mistakes/successes. There is always an answer to a question from another person.

    Mats Ahrin

    BCA#5373

    Nykoping, Sweden

  5. I was out yesterday and measured the lenght of my -36 Roadmaster fender with fenderwell. The lenght from running board connection to its most forward point was so close to 71" that you could come. So it seems as you have Roadmaster fenders in your possession.

    I restored my -36 in the mid 70:s and if I can be of any help for you in other issues I would be glad to assist you.

    Mats Ahrin

    BCA# 5373

  6. IMHO it looks as it is the breaker points inside the clock body. The points gets burned during the years of use and sometimes barely manage to connect the current for a short rewind. Sometimes they get in contact but not enough to let the current get through until the body gets a kick from closing the glove box door or a hit on the clock body. I have had several clocks acting this way. Best is to take off the front and get access to the clock mechanism. Use a magnetic file between the points to freshen up the surfaces. Connect the battery and see how the rewind mechanism works. You will see a short lightning until the rewind mechanism has separated the points. Check to see that the burning point is in the middle of the points. This way the contact will work over a bigger surface and last for a longer period of time and use.:)

  7. I have no figures of how many cars that were equipped with the Marvel carb but my feeling is that the Stromberg carb was in the majority. I have seen information from service messages from Buick that when better carbs came later in the 30´s and early 40´s, Buick encouraged workshops to change carbs if the customer suffered from what they felt as bad performance. A general rule in this forum over the years had been that the Carter carbs were the best.

    If you think of making a replacement, there is a need to adjust the performance of the automatic choke. But I think that there is information within this forum of how to do that.

    Mats

  8. Hello,

    I can tell you from the engine photo that you have the original Marvel carb that a few cars were aquipped with, mine for instance. Most people say it is not so good and I can agree to most of that. The float is as an example made of cork, which dries out quite heavily over the years causing the carb to flood. But the performance once the car is running is OK, at least that´s my experience. I have however changed to a Stromberg from early fifties instead which does an equal job and is not flooding.

    The woodgraining in your car also seems to be really good, try to save it as the original pattern is always better than a repro.

    Mats

  9. The rounded sleeve of the ferrule that goes throught the door is slightly bent on two points opposite each other just inside the door sheet metal. This is the way it looks on my -36 Roadmaster and I assume it is similar on the -38. By unmounting the door lock mechanism you should have straight access to the ferrule.

  10. The thing is that the rear main bearing is slightly longer on the -36 engine compared to -37 engines and onwards, (ask me why I know), which forces you to rebabitt if you want to use your original one. Mine was rebored to correct tolerances without any use of shims and I now feel good in my mind knowing I was able to keep the original engine. The cost is of course essentially higher, but what would you not do to stick to originality.

  11. The thread size into the carb is a standard pipe thread 1/8" with an outside diameter of 0,405" and 27 threads/inch. If any of your bowls has this thread I am interested. I also think that one can use a crosspipe going from one size to another to get a bowl not having this thread to fit in the carb.

    Mats

  12. The thing is that it seems so difficult in adding photos to the forum so I have not succeded yet. But I ahve today seen three types of bowls, two that are non painted, just plain metal with a fairly high glass bowl and one that is painted red with a lower glass bowl. All three are just screwed on to the carb inlet.

    Thanks for your help.

    Mats

  13. There were two types of radios available in 1937. One that was mounted just above the steering column and was regulated from the instrument panel with steel cables and conduits, like in 1936.

    The other type was the Centerline radio which was just like it states, in the Center of the instrument panel. This type is removed by unscrewing the two plastic knobs, taking off the tone and local/distance knobs and removing the two nuts behind. On the back of the radio, towards the cowl, is a bracket. This bracket is attached to the instrument panel with one end and the other end is secured with a nut to a pinbolt on the radio, at least it is so on a -38 radio and -37 seems to be the same. Loosen that nut and then you can unhook the bracket, lower the back of the radio and carefully lift it out from the panel. I have done that several times in my -38 for fixing the vibrator.

    Just like written, I have pryed the whole unit off the cover and carefully grinded the points, connected the loose unit to its contacts in the radio, applied 6 volt and noticed that the vibrator worked. I have to do this if the radio is not started on and off, these points tend to clog themselves over a longer period.

    Mats

  14. I reassembled the carb, put it back in the car, started it and went for a drive, and......

    WOW, what i difference!!

    It now performs flawless with no problem whatsoever. Thanks to the information of the size of the tool and jets I could fix this. Now I will inform other people here about how to disassemble the carb totally. I am not sure that many have done this, probably more the usual thing of blowing it as clean as possible with air.

    Mats

  15. Hi,

    I have now been able to unscrew the main jets with the type of tool that you described and I have also managed to pull out the discharge jets. To say that they needed a cleaning is an understatement. Almost all of the small jet holes were plugged with some kind of white dried out gas.

    Now a question. The shop manual states that it is important to make sure that the lead gaskets on the discharge jets are taken out from the carb body. One had the gasket on the jet itself while the other might still be in the body. But these gaskets can´t be replaced with new ones as they are not in any repair kits that I have. Can the old ones be used again?

    Thanks for any help.

    Mats

  16. Jon,

    thank you very much for your advices!

    Now I know which size the jets should have and will check that.

    I have had a thought of using a squared steel rod, similar to what you just propose, which is wide enough for a cutout of a slot for the jet but small enough to enter through the passages to the jets. Your information about the size of the jet is highly appreciated as it is hard to messure that.

    I checked the float height after the first start and that was definetily too low, so I have adjusted the floats and have now the level so it just do not sipp out through the sight plug. I will raise it a little more as I know from earlier forum questions that the level is critical for a good perfomance.

    I will keep the forum informed about the progress.

    Mats

  17. I drove last week with my old Marvel carb, it´s a -38 engine, before the change and it acted like it always had, ie without any problems apart from being hard started when warm due to vaporisation. I will check the vacuum advance as well though.

    On the other hand, I don´t think that the main jets on the new carb have been taken off as there is a need of a special tool. I am thinking of making such a tool and taking them and the discharge jets out for a cleaning.

    I also noted when the carb was taken off the flange, two angled sticks from the flange up in the carb. Those I have not seen on any schematics so far, but they probably don´t affect the perfomance.

    How do you know that you have the correct jets, as there are no markings on them?

    Mats

  18. Hi,

    I have over this winter prepared and now finally installed a Stromberg carb, said to be for a -52 320 engine but upon arrival turning out to be for a 54-55 V8. After installation there is no problem in starting and letting the engine go on idling but as soon as you want to drive, the engine gets very rough and lacks any power. I have tried to clean out the carb as much as possible but with no succes. The air screws are to my knowledge adjusted correctly and I have not noticed any air leakages that will lean out the gas mix.

    My theory to why it acts like this: could the fact be that a "long" 320 engine looses more gas on the way through the intake manifold to the outer cylinders than a "short" V8? By this I mean that the main jets are not as big as necessary for the 320, thereby the engine does not get enough of gas to run good. Or are all jets for a V8 comparable in every aspect to what a 320 needs?

    Any aspects and advices are highly appreciated.

    Mats

  19. My friend followed your advice and took off the coil package with its bracket. He took the parts inside to a warmer place than his concrete garage, took off the coils and cleaned all contact areas and the bracket. He penetrated the areas with anticorosion spray, remounted the unit in the car and..... It fired right up!!!

    Thanks for your advice, this type of help is why I enjoy BCA so much.

    Mats

  20. Hi,

    after four months winterrest my friends car refuses to start. It performed with no problem when parked for the winter season but now there is no tendency of a spark at all. Can someone in this excellent forum give me some step by step proposals on how to find out why the spark has gone, I mean electrical connection to check, possible relays or electric indicators connected to the ignition system. Any hints are highly appreciated.

  21. I made a separate wiring from every light bulb unit to a grounding wire that I had built into both the front and rear harnesses. From a joint under the dash, both grounded wires could be connected to a third wire going directly to the battery. This has worked out great on my -38 for the last 15 years with no problems whatsoever.

    Mats

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