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Two Roadmasters

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  1. Hello all, to my knowledge Nordberg did not produce any convertibles based on the Special chassi, which I think this is. They used Roadmaster chassis and all had landau bars. The last photo is of another car than the previous ones, might be a Gläser body as they also used to have landau bars. It looks as if there is an outside luggage trunk behind the rear window. Gläser did some cars with a vertical rear wall right down from the rear window and ending lengtwise in the the middle of the rear fenders. In the space from the wall to the bumper there was a possibility to place a trunk. The car looked ok with a trunk but looked a little odd without. The other car might be a danish body maker, I have tried to find the name but failed. From what I remember their cars did have the very typical side moulding running from behind the door and backwards. Mats
  2. It seems to be an aftermarket handle because, just like you wrote Brian, this one has 5 lines. There is also another design between the chromed part and the galvanised part, the original has two extra "shoulders" standing out. This one also does not have the lid that you press the key through when you should unlock, the locking cylinder is open. Mats
  3. My original -36 Roadmaster has the ivory knob, just looking the same as the original -36 Special in the new March Bugle. It is another type of plastic in this year, as the one I had on my -38 was dry rotted, like all other "plastic" material from 1937 and onwards. Mats
  4. I´m 57 and bought my ever first owned car in 1973 when I found a -36 Roadmaster mod. 81in a junkyard here in Sweden.I was very close to have become the owner of a -39 Packard mod 1701, just the weeks before this car. But the farmer that had the Packard could never come to a decision for selling it. The -36 was beeing restored in the late 70´s and by that time it was not as easy to get hold of parts and information as nowadays. But I managed to fix it up beeing kind of manic to use every possible original part. I used nitrocellulose paint which also is a real challenge as the surface needs to be as even as a glass. This car is the only one that is driveable here. Fact is that it was sold new in USA in -36 but wnet with an immigrant into Sweden in 1937. Frame no. is 2908317 and engine no. is 83067827, which I think is a fairly early production. The other old car I found in 1977 was the -38 Roadmaster mod. 80C, beeing restored in the late 80`s. What I learned from the mistakes on the -36 was not repeated on this car. Both of these cars is a joy to drive and I can´t think of the thought of selling them as you have put your soul into them over the long restoration period. I think that you know what I mean. I joined the BCA in 1976 and check this forum on a daily basis. One of the many things I really enjoy is how we all try to help each other from our own experiences and mistakes/successes. There is always an answer to a question from another person. Mats Ahrin BCA#5373 Nykoping, Sweden
  5. I was out yesterday and measured the lenght of my -36 Roadmaster fender with fenderwell. The lenght from running board connection to its most forward point was so close to 71" that you could come. So it seems as you have Roadmaster fenders in your possession. I restored my -36 in the mid 70:s and if I can be of any help for you in other issues I would be glad to assist you. Mats Ahrin BCA# 5373
  6. IMHO it looks as it is the breaker points inside the clock body. The points gets burned during the years of use and sometimes barely manage to connect the current for a short rewind. Sometimes they get in contact but not enough to let the current get through until the body gets a kick from closing the glove box door or a hit on the clock body. I have had several clocks acting this way. Best is to take off the front and get access to the clock mechanism. Use a magnetic file between the points to freshen up the surfaces. Connect the battery and see how the rewind mechanism works. You will see a short lightning until the rewind mechanism has separated the points. Check to see that the burning point is in the middle of the points. This way the contact will work over a bigger surface and last for a longer period of time and use.
  7. I have no figures of how many cars that were equipped with the Marvel carb but my feeling is that the Stromberg carb was in the majority. I have seen information from service messages from Buick that when better carbs came later in the 30´s and early 40´s, Buick encouraged workshops to change carbs if the customer suffered from what they felt as bad performance. A general rule in this forum over the years had been that the Carter carbs were the best. If you think of making a replacement, there is a need to adjust the performance of the automatic choke. But I think that there is information within this forum of how to do that. Mats
  8. Hello, I can tell you from the engine photo that you have the original Marvel carb that a few cars were aquipped with, mine for instance. Most people say it is not so good and I can agree to most of that. The float is as an example made of cork, which dries out quite heavily over the years causing the carb to flood. But the performance once the car is running is OK, at least that´s my experience. I have however changed to a Stromberg from early fifties instead which does an equal job and is not flooding. The woodgraining in your car also seems to be really good, try to save it as the original pattern is always better than a repro. Mats
  9. Hi Pete, when in started to restore the brakes on my -36 Roadmaster in the early 70:s the bleeder screws looked exactly like yours on all four cylinders. I think this was original bleeder screws as no one to my knowledge had done anything to the car before I did.
  10. The rounded sleeve of the ferrule that goes throught the door is slightly bent on two points opposite each other just inside the door sheet metal. This is the way it looks on my -36 Roadmaster and I assume it is similar on the -38. By unmounting the door lock mechanism you should have straight access to the ferrule.
  11. The thing is that the rear main bearing is slightly longer on the -36 engine compared to -37 engines and onwards, (ask me why I know), which forces you to rebabitt if you want to use your original one. Mine was rebored to correct tolerances without any use of shims and I now feel good in my mind knowing I was able to keep the original engine. The cost is of course essentially higher, but what would you not do to stick to originality.
  12. The thread size into the carb is a standard pipe thread 1/8" with an outside diameter of 0,405" and 27 threads/inch. If any of your bowls has this thread I am interested. I also think that one can use a crosspipe going from one size to another to get a bowl not having this thread to fit in the carb. Mats
  13. The thing is that it seems so difficult in adding photos to the forum so I have not succeded yet. But I ahve today seen three types of bowls, two that are non painted, just plain metal with a fairly high glass bowl and one that is painted red with a lower glass bowl. All three are just screwed on to the carb inlet. Thanks for your help. Mats
  14. It´s a -48 Roadmaster with 320 engine. But aren´t the bowls so similar so they are interchangeable between any series on late 40´s cars and at least into the mid 50´s, or is it a smaller bowl for the 248-263 engines?
  15. Hi anyone having a glass bowl unit, the one that is mounted between fuel line and carburetor? Thanks in advance. Regards Mats
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