Pete O

Do you have the original Model A engine in the car? The engine number and the frame number are the same in a Model A (that is, if the engine was never swapped out during the last 80 years). Also, the number on the frame is completely obscurred by they body, as it is stamped on on top edge of the frame, in the area of where the driver's side cowl meets the frame. Why not try having the inspector come out and look at the engine number? If you don't have an original engine in the car, and the fact that you have a replacement frame, can you register it as a home-built?

Sounds like a situation I had with a certain supplier located in New Jersey when I ordered brake drums for my '51 Super. They sent the wider Roadmaster drums. I called to point out their error, and they insisted they sent the right ones. This supplier has a reputation of never admitting to a mistake. Are you dealing with this New Jersey based supplier?

The top positioning is adjustable. That's how you set the caster and camber. If I remember correctly, loosen the locking bolt, and use an allen key to turn the bolt that goes through the bushings. I'm kind of remembering that you take one of the grease fitting out to access the allen head? You're going to need to bring it to an alignment shop after you're all done anyway (good luck finding one that knows how to do a '50 Buick!)

Bhigdog, you are correct sir, if you're hooking the spring onto a post rather than into a hole in the shoe. Many of those plier type spring tools have the tool you describe included in the handle end of the plier. It's a straight bar with a little notched out dimple on one side. The other handle of the plier often has a spring removal tool. It's cupped out and has a dowel on the side. Place the cup over the pin and spin it so the dowel hooks the spring end, and voila!

The one that looks like big pliers with a hook on one end- hook one end of the spring to its anchoring point opposite the shoe you will be hooking the other end into. Hook the free end of the spring to the hooked end of the spring tool. Spread open the tool, and put the other "plier" end on the facing of the brake lining by the hole you're hooking the spring into. Squeeze the tool closed, and it will strech the spring, using the "plier" end on the face of the brake lining as the leverage point. With a little practice, you should be able to pop the hooked end of the spring right into the hole.

Just speculating here, but maybe the horn relay is faulty?

You might try soaking the bearing in dry ice to shrink it a bit....

Is the antenna lead plugged all the way into the radio? (P.S.- I love your 1950 41D. This was the same model my father had that he always regretted selling. He spoke about it as the best car he ever owned, and is the reason I eventually bought my '51)

I did my '51's bushings about 3 years ago. I needed a 4 foot pipe on the breaker bar to screw those s-o-b's all the way in. It was like they were cutting new threads into the eyes on the control arm.

I have a right side moustache bar I took off my '51 Super that you can have for free if you want it. The Super and Roadmaster bars are interchangeable. It's got a bit of a dent in it, and the chrome isn't perfect, but hey, the price is right and it's better than nothing! I found one without a dent before I had my bar rechromed, and I never throw out the old parts I take off. Lemme know if you want it. Pete

Sorry I didn't reply sooner, but I had problems logging into the new forum software. Anyway, the locking pin goes in one way only. One end of the pin is flattened somewhat (see picture). If you look at the pin end on, one end is circular, the other is kind of D shaped. You have to drive it out from the D end. If you drive it from the O end, you'll just be locking the pin tighter to the kingpin. Clean up your knuckle support really well to check which end is which.

I found a guy on the web who sells a special drive shaft puller for Buicks. $119 including shipping, and he takes paypal. http://www.bayoupc.net/imp/buick.html

Remember when all you needed to find your way around was this: It worked on a 6V as well as a 12V car- no rewiring necessary .

One time, I ran the level of the gas tank too low, and the pump lost its prime. Even when I topped off the tank, there was air trapped in the pump, and it wouldn't pump gas. I took the drain plug out of the bottom of the pump while the tank was topped off enough so gravity caused the gas to run out the drain. This let the air escape, and got the prime back. It's worth a try.

I don't know if this applies to the particular model that you're dealing with, but I know there are differences in the rocker arm between a Series 40 or 50 and the Series 70 fuel pumps for the straight 8s of the early '50's. Compare the rocker arm length, angle, height and range of motion between the pump that works and the one that you rebuilt to see if they're the same.

I wonder if this might work. What if you wound fine copper wire clockwise around the outside of the bushing? Grease the darned thing up real good, and try threading the bushing with the wire wrapped around it into the knuckle. The wire is likely enough to take up the clearance, and because it's soft copper, it will compress fairly easily as you thread it in, filling in any voids.

Just a couple of points- BMJ, in your orig post you mention in your third paragraph that '53 was the end of the '49-'53 body run. Actually, '49 is a unique year. The body used in the 50 and 70 Series in '49 was the GM B body introduced for the '48 Caddy, and was used by Buick only in 1949. The B body was reengineed and restyled for 1950. The 40 Series for 1949 continued to use the old prewar body shell until late in the year, when a new Special using the new for 1950 B body was introduced early, getting a jump on the 1950 model year. In 1950, I believe the concensus is that all Buick Series, 40,50 and 70, used the new for '50 GM B body. I've read some discussions on whether or not the long wheelbase Riviera models in the 50 and 70 series (models 52 and 72/72R) used the C body, but I'm not sure that point has ever been made for certain. In 1951, the 40 Series moved from the B body that the 50 and 70 Series continued to use to something else. Almost none of the body parts interchange between the 40 and 50 series in 1951. I don't know for sure if the 40 Series used the GM A body, but in looking at the rooflines and fender lines, it's clear that the Specials used the same body as the smaller Oldsmobiles in '51. Supporting this is that the parts manual shows some interchangeable parts with Olds for '51 (for example, the front door vent windows interchange).

Economic conditions were far worse during the Great Depression in the '30s than they are today, and GM was able to survive that period without a government rescue. What's different about GM now that they'd go under without the taxpayers saving them? Don't say it's the imports, as GM had plenty of domestic competition in the '30s like they have today with the imports, and the imports are currently struggling just as GM is.

Pete, there's a copy of an '09 sales brochure on "The Old Car Manual Project" website: http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/main.php?g2_itemId=4121

They don't list just the impeller on their parts list, but it might be worth a call to: Hydro-E-Lectric 5530 Independence Ct. Punta Gorda, FL 33982-1700 (800) 343-4261 Tel: (941) 639-0437 Fax: (941) 639-0376 Info@Hydro-E-Lectric.com http://www.hydroe.com/Home.html

There's a guy on ebay who is selling a replacement tank. I don't know if it's a complete replica of a stock tank, but he claims it's: Stock dimensions: 31.5" x 27.5" x 7.5 Stock capacity Coated corrosion resistant steel Accepts stock sending unit FREE SHIPPING within continental (48) United States Note: Please confirm stock neck location before ordering. Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1950-51-5...1QQcmdZViewItem

I had a vapor lock situation in my '51 when I first got it because of a poorly placed aftermarket electric fuel pump. It was placed high up on the firewall, where it had to suck gas up to the carb. Sucking cause a lower pressure in the line, allowing the gas to vaporize at a lower temperature. Fuel pumps need to be down low, where they can push the gas along.

I'm not sure about the 53, but the 51 and 52 are interchangeable between the Roadmasters and Supers. The bar from the Special will not fit the Roadmaster and Super in 51 or 52. I see these come up on eBay every once and a while.

It's possible that while the fan was loose on the shaft- before you tightened it with the washer- that the movement caused some wear either on the water pump shaft or in the hole in the fan pulley. I don't think the woodruff key would cause the wobble you are seeing now after tightening it snuggly, as the shaft and pulley are tapered, and once tightened should have no relative movement. I don't think driving with a wobble in the fan is a good idea. I would try a new fan and a new woodruff key to see if that fixes it.

PS. Here's the splined seal and spring parts that go around the prop shaft inside the torque tube that you asked about. You mentioned you weren't getting tranny fluid in the rear end, so most likely these aren't the source of your leak. But hey, you have it all apart, and these aren't that expensive, so I'd change them if I were doing the job. http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/groups/g_52855/ffb3/__sr_/a394.jpg?gr4nkKIBViyjRbCg