Pete O
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Posts posted by Pete O
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There slides and pins in the hood latches that wear and get sloppy and don't click smartly into place when the wear happens. I had to build up with weld and dremel it smooth one of the slides (or channels or notches or whatever they're called that the pin rides in.)
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What, two guys and one gal? 😁
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These diagrams are from the master parts book. You can get a copy on CD or USB from https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1952-1953-buick-factory-shop-manuals-cd.html When you find the part you need from the diagram, you can look up the part number. For example, on the diagram that shows the whole assembly, part A, the key describes it as RAIL, folding top side roof (front) in group number 14.100. You then hop on over to the part number lists in group 14.100. You look up your Fisher Body style number and/or year and model number under that part description to find the part number.
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Loose backing plate?
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The only way this could be happening is if the transmission slipped from neutral into gear. There are detentes on the shifter rails into which spring loaded plungers with ball shaped ends apply pressure. This gives you the resistance and the "snick snick" as you move the shift lever between gears. Do you have any resistance when you move the lever into a gear? Could be your plungers or rails are worn or the springs are broken.
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"There is spark through the coil and into the distributor but, there is no spark to any of the plugs." Make sure the center lead from the coil to the cap is seated fully on both ends. If so, take the distributor cap off and have someone crank the car over. Watch if the rotor spins. If it does, check the condition of the contacts on the rotor and the distributor cap. Look for corrosion. Check the graphite "dimple" center contact in the distributor cap. These can crack and fall out and you won't have any continuity for the high voltage through the rotor. If the rotor doesn't spin, you have big problems, perhaps a stripped camshaft gear or distributor drive gear.
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I've attached the wiring diagram. It looks like the neutral safety switch traces back to the fuse block and shares the same fuse as the back-up (or reversing) lights or maybe it is the directional signal fuse (I can't tell for sure from the diagram. Maybe check those fuses to see if you burned out the fuse while replacing the neutral safety switch? You may have let the wire touch some metal under the dashboard.
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IMHO, Going bankrupt does not just come on instantly. The owner had to have seen this coming quite a while ago. If they saw the business failing, it was unethical for them to continue to take in new work and take deposits. No money left in the business to return work in house? If the owner has any honor left in him, he would use his personal savings to make sure his customers items are returned.
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There are antique tools available on ebay to spread the split rim. You can get them for less than $100.00 Here's one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/225839993003?hash=item34951cd0ab:g:Kp4AAOSw0m9lNzvk&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4GPJrOrkcjpjzMi%2BsFLv%2BjMBVHUDj67ejTHr0EwN7X7iLV5YN2GzVVzyQ9zlhLGnO2ucolKjGuLEYL6MvQE9xljwm82TAPWfHaw3xoOLNwUfmT%2Bo1QEdaiFNzlW58KeIeLn0fdcILbweGY44%2FvAtCcmCX3JIS%2BrRom%2F3Xzn%2BgOfkMhg5tUpEYbWD5CKGBxrEm0%2BhOFz%2BgDnGQ6ob%2F9L0QZtGyd9z95EbaZvPP0NfyktJw87eA2kRmA8O6s5c0kNNDHEw1wj6HEUOnbbAoGV5xd0ukxmJZvEqnu9s0t1YtWQ7|tkp%3ABFBMnOvu74tj
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On my 51 Super, the pump/reservoir is located on the passenger side behind the front wheel inner fender. You can catch a glimpse of it from the engine bay, but you can't reach it from there. You have to get at it from below.
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Is the chromed metal that surrounds the ashtray opening made of potmetal? Potmetal tends to swell over time because of the zinc in it is susceptible to zinc rot (from wikipedia : Zinc pest (from German Zinkpest), also known as zinc rot and zamak rot, is a destructive, intercrystalline corrosion process of zinc alloys containing lead impurities.[1] While impurities of the alloy are the primary cause of the problem, environmental conditions such as high humidity (greater than 65%) may accelerate the process). If the metal has swelled it may have closed the opening down enough to get the tray caught in it. Maybe file the opening down a little if that seems to be where the ashtray is hanging up?
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If you have an original distributor in the old girl, a known trouble spot is the short wire below the upper distributor plate that connects the lower plate to the stud on the points. Old cracked insulation can short the voltage to ground before it gets to the points. Also, look at the connector on the end of that wire and make sure it is not making contact with any part of the upper plate besides the stud on the points, or with the body of the distributor when the upper plate is installed.
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2 hours ago, Fordy said:
So.... For the non-T Ford guys is this like flashing a generator to re magnetize the pole shoes for negative / positive earth? Are the spark plugs fired directly off that voltage? I have never understood T Ford ignitions - where do trembler coils etc come into play? Indulge a village idiot on the subject please?
Steve
Kind of. The Model T magneto has V shaped magnets attached to the flywheel and coils attached to the back of the engine block. As the flywheel turns and the magnets pass by the coils it induces an AC current as the + and - poles of the magnets pass the coils. It's just like a modern lawnmower, but there's like 16 magnets and coils rather than just 1 set. The permanent magnets can loose their magnetism over time. They can lose them right quick of you mistakenly hook up a power source to the magneto and cause the coils on the back of the block to become energized. That produces a magnetic field in them that can wipe out the magnetism in the V shaped magnets.
The trembler coils can be fed by a battery or by the magneto (there's a switch on the coil box). Lots of T guys crank-start their car using a battery to power the ignition and then switch to magneto after it's running because you really have to give it a good twirl to build up enough voltage in the magneto. The magneto can produce something like 20 volts at a high rpm which is why you get a better spark running the magneto vs. a battery. All 4 trembler coils are always energized when the ignition is on, fed from a common bus under the coils (from the battery or magneto). They're hot but they are not grounded. There is a commutator driven off the front of the camshaft which is just a rotating ground for the trembler coils. Each coil has a set of points on top that are operated electro-magneticly. When each coil is sequentially grounded by the rotating commutator, the juice already in that coil begins to flow to ground, and the current sets up the magnetic field in the primary winding, and that magnetic field also causes an electro-magnet to pull open the points which breaks the circuit, inducing a high voltage in the secondary winding from the collapsing magnetic field, and directly off to the spark plug that high voltage goes. The collapsed magnetic field turns off the electro-magnet so the points on the coil close, which sets the whole cycle in motion again. You can get a few sparks each time the commutator grounds the coil, but the first one is strongest (because the coil has had more soak time for that first spark) and most critical for proper spark timing. Those quickly opening and closing points causes that trademark buzz you hear in the T ignition.
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The coils are always hot from that ninth terminal feeding the common bus under the coils, and the commutator is just a rotating ground. Each coil has a set of points on top that are operated electro-magneticly. When each coil is sequentially grounded by the rotating commutator, the juice already in that coil begins to flow to ground, and the current sets up the magnetic field in the primary winding, and that magnetic field also causes an electro-magnet to pull open the points which breaks the circuit, inducing a high voltage in the secondary winding from the collapsing magnetic field, and directly off the the spark plug that high voltage goes. The collapsed magnetic field turns off the electro-magnet so the points on the coil close, which sets the whole cycle in motion again. You can get a few sparks each time the commutator grounds the coil, but the first one is strongest (because the coil has had more soak time for that first spark) and most critical for proper spark timing.
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I don't give a fig about carbon emissions. A by-product of owning antique cars is that I'll still have gasoline powered cars after they've been phased out by new car manufacturers.
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"A Brougham is a..." marketing word that car companies tack onto any model to make you think you're getting a really fancy car.
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The long straight 8 engine tends to accumulate rust and dirt in the water jacket at the back of the engine near the fire wall and surrounding cylinder 8. The water flow back there far from the water pump slows and the crap settles out. No amount of flushing will remove it, as it gets hard like a rock. I had overheating problems too until I bit the bullet and pulled the head. I spent hours picking at the concretions back there with screw drivers, awls, compressed air, water jets, etc. I took a length of lawn mower throttle cable, removed the wire inside, and chucked the wound outer cable into a drill. I inserted the flexible cable into the water jacket and spun up the drill. The cable flailed around and removed any loose rust and crust it came in contact with. More rinsing and compress air until I was satisfied I got out all I could. Did the same thing in the cylinder head back by No. 8, though the head doesn't clog up as much like the block does. After reassembly, I left the thermostat out and put a piece of nylon stocking over the upper radiator inlet before installing the hose. Ran the engine with plain water and drove around for a while with the filter in place. It caught a bunch of loose crap that I missed. Cleaned the filter, and drove some more repeating the clean outs until it reached a reasonable level of crap. Reinstalled the thermostat, put in antifreeze, and the car has been running cool as a cucumber since. A lot of work, but it was worth it.
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And if the stock 66 Mustang were sitting next to a restomod with lots of chrome geegaws under the hood, it would get all the attention and the stock 66 would be passed by. That's what people like these days.
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Website shows that it's in stock. Maybe they got some in? Maybe their website is wrong?
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All the planet gears ride on roller bearings, but I can't see how one would escape as they are retained by a large flat washer. There's a retaining pin in the accumulators, but again I can't see how they'd make it to the pan. I suspect someone dropped a loose pin in there when the tranny was assembled.
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Depends on how obsessive you want to be. The word original means the first of something or the beginning of something. So if you replace ANYTHING on the car that part is no longer original to the car. You could go so far as saying that if you add air to the air that was in the tires when it left the factory it's no longer the original air in the tire. But I think that most people believe "original" means more along the lines as being "as original". So if you replace a spark plug with one that was just like the one that came from the factory, it is "as original". If you replace a spark plug with a different brand than what came from the factory, even if it functions the same and looks similar, it's no longer "as original".
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Clunky is in the eye of the beholder. And clunky is subject to 65 years of changing tastes. When the second generation T-Bird first came out, it was an immediate sales success, selling at a pace 4x that of the 2 seater. It was very low and sleek compared to contemporary cars, and the doodads and sculpturing on the flanks was the style of the day.
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1938 Ford 4 door vin 18 - 4405459
in Technical
Posted
Mark is correct. I'm not the seller. I just saw this on ebay and posted the link for you.