hursst

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Everything posted by hursst

  1. The guys on the MGA forum say it's around Mar-Apr. I'll wait. Haha. I've been messing with when and how I blast, so this morning, I got up very early and had everything set up outside in the shade, where it was fairly cool. I kept the blaster and compressor next to each other, so they were the same temperature. I cleared the water traps frequently, and was actually able to get a good 45 minutes of blasting before it clogged. In the past, I had the blaster in the sun and compressor in the shade, or vice versa, or blasted during mid-day, so slowly learning what it like and doesn't like. Today was very successful. I'll probably shift to welding this afternoon. The real life stuff is difficult. I keep progress by trying to do at least something each day, even if it is something like moving bolts from storage to the work bench for 1 minute. Everything adds up and keep the momentum going, no matter how small. Hope you can find some more time and keep the progress going. Chris
  2. In addition, I cut out the rot on the front of the inner rocker support and cut out a new piece to weld in (Photo 1). Didn't get it welded in to day as it was very hot and I had many other projects. I will try to at least get it tacked in tomorrow. Also, here is the seat back for the driver's seat (Photo 2). It still has the original rubberized horse hair padding, which was in excellent condition, so I will reuse it with my new leather upholstery. I think the Moss Interior sale is in Spring, so I will probably refinish everything I can and leave the upholstery until the spring. I'm also repainting the portion of the metal seat frame to remove some surface rust and make it look nice again, which is why there is blue tape on it. Tomorrow will try welding and try to break out the Clogmaster 2000 to see if I can get more than 3 minutes of blasting in before it clogs up tight.
  3. Made more progress on the driver's seat today. Here's a closeup of the broken wooden seat base (Photo 1). I took some sheet steel, cut it to fit, painted it black and screwed it together with some wood screws to make a repair (Photo 2). Actually worked quite well, it's fairly solid now. A lot of extra work and money to replace it, so better to fix it.
  4. Really enjoying the last part of this resto. Interesting how everyone hits a tipping point where it seems like just a pile of junk, then one day, you have most of a restored car sitting there. So much more fun to bolt on restored parts than to disassemble and redo parts. Great work!
  5. It's been quite a while since I've posted, been out of town and just incredibly busy. My cable box, computer, router, TV, modem, and GPS unit all broke in the same week, both coincidentally and due to power surges. What a huge hassle to get that stuff fixed/replaced/diagnosed, etc. Almost back to normal. Was able to dabble with the MG, but not much progress until today. Got the middle portion of the vertical rocker support welded on. Took some extra effort, as I cut the piece a little too short at the top, so had to make some thin pieces to fill the gap. Turned out okay actually, just extra work (Photo 1). Of course, have a lot of grinding and finishing work to do before it's ready for the inner rocker panel. My side project is the seats. I took the driver's side seat apart today. Refinished the mounting brackets and sliding mechanism, so those are ready. Upon taking apart the lower seat, I found that some of the seat cover still had its original leather attached, although most of it had replacement vinyl sewn in. I also discovered an almost perfect circle drilled by a rodent (Photo 2) in the foam padding. The original Dunlopillo foam was still in the seat (Photo 3). The wood frame is broken, but I should be able to make a repair on the inside to keep everything as original as possible. I'll be getting all new foam and original style leather seat covers, probably when they go on sale. In the meantime, I will refinish and repair the wood lower seat frame and repaint the metal mesh middle support to get it ready for upholstery. Still have the actual seat frame to refinish. Should turn out great. It's been yet another month since I got an engine update. Today was the day it was supposed to have final machining and be back at the British Car shop. Of course I received no phone call. I called and had to speak to one of the other guys and he said "we found another shop, so we think we can get your engine to this new shop soon." I was speechless, as that's the same thing told to me a month ago. I said "there must be some mistake, check your records again." There was a mistake, my engine is actually at the new shop, but it is now expected back Aug 7th instead of today. More delays, but some minor progress. By the time I get the engine back in the car, it will end up being over a year. Terrible. I'm going to try to hit the MG hard this weekend and get as much of the rocker work done as possible. I really need this to be finished so I can work on the rest of the body. Once I get the engine back, I will have to move the chassis and body around in my garage so the body will be at the front, while the chassis is tucked away at the rear. IIt's now situated with the chassis about 10% under the body, which is up on saw horses. I will have to detail the chassis, as I have left it uncovered and it is coated in a thick layer of dust and grit at this pint. I should have covered it up while doing the hard metal work. No big deal, I guess. It will be cleaned and covered once the engine gets back in it. The side projects are working well. At the rate I'm going, once the main body and paint are finished, I should have almost all the other parts ready to just bolt in. Cheers to the weekend!
  6. Thanks again. I bought these and they will need a slight bit of adjustment, but they are almost perfect. I appreciate the information greatly!
  7. Sorry, I have no photos available, I do not have the parts with me. I think the NAPA part above may work, metal piece. Thanks for the info, I'll see if we can make this fit.
  8. Hello, Not quite a car question, but close. Our volunteer group is restoring a 1935 Erie Railroad Railbus. It has air brakes with 2 large air cylinders as the main brake components. On top of these cylinders is linkage that connects to brake linkage rods. We need to find a source for some rubber dust shields that would go around the top base of the cylinder and up to the brake connecting rod linkage. The base is about 5 15/16" and we need a length of about 3" and up to 6" when expanded, then a narrower diameter towards the top. Can't just go to Pep Boys for this. I tried Steele Rubber and some quick searches on line, but only found motorcycle shock dust shields that are even remotely close. Those may work if we modify them, but I thought I'd ask this resource first. Any ideas on where we could go to find something like that that's even close? We will gladly modify anything if it's even close. -Chris
  9. Good to see some updated posts. Keep up the good work. Great car!
  10. Got a little more completed today. Cut out the rot from the back end of the vertical rocker support panel (Photo 1). Made a patch panel shaped like the original rust out (Photo 2). Getting really good at fabricating these small parts with a body hammer, vice, and cut-off wheel. Saving a fortune by doing this myself. Mostly got in place, ready to weld (Photo 3). Didn't get to welding it today, had a lot of other things going on. Got my new battery for my old Plymouth and took it for a ride today. Also finished the dipper switch and installed it. Had to leave it loose on the chassis as I will need to connect the wiring eventually. Ran out of side projects, so now I'm going to tackle the passenger seat. At the very least, I will redo all the metal parts, but I may try the upholstery. Moss should be having a sale on the leather seats soon... Complete tangent; maybe Mike McC will appreciate this, but I bought a 12 pack of Newcastle Brown Ale last week. They changed the bottle and the label. It tasted different, too, a little off. Found out that it is now brewed under license by Lagunitas in California and they changed the recipe. Just terrible! I wanted a fine British Ale, but what I got was ripped off. Another fine Brit company taken over by foreigners who ruin the product, just like MG. Should have bought more Old Speckled Hen instead...
  11. Thanks Jim. Yes, I know of Dave, but decided to try a British car place as I thought maybe they'd have more expertise with the British stuff, plus they have an engine test stand., as Dave mostly does American engines. In hindsight, Dave would have been a better choice, but it's too late to change at this point, just want to try to see it through this last month and get the engine built up.
  12. I killed my battery completely. Took it to the auto parts store and the charge was aborted. Had to get a new battery. Another lesson learned.
  13. If I ever restore another car (probably not until I retire), I'll be sure to ask you guys for engine builders first. Will be worth whatever distance drive it is! I think I made some good progress today. I went back to work on the inner rocker remnants on the passenger side and was able to remove the rest of the spot welded pieces. Really picking up the pace compared to the driver's side, since I now have some experience. Here's chiseling out the spot welded strips left over from when I cut out the inner rocker (Photo 1). Here's the finished product (Photo 2). The Eastwood spot weld air drill continues to work fairly well. At first I thought maybe I could save some of the lower portion of the vertical inner panel, but the front is completely fried, the middle is so-so, but the metal will be too thin once I clean off the rust, and rear is trashed. I'll probably cut it about 3" up, just like I did with most of the passenger side. Should be able to get some off this work done tomorrow, although welding in long pants and long-sleeve shirt in 91 degrees will be challenging! Also was able to just about complete restoring the dipper switch (high beam switch) that goes near the floor board on the chassis uprights, as another side project. This will be a great piece to finish, as I can bolt it right to the upright, as the carpet goes around it, not under it. More photos tomorrow. Because I can't have a perfect day in the garage, discovered that my cut out switch on my '30 Plymouth was seized shut and drained a brand-new battery to zero charge. Battery will not even accept a charge, so it's trashed. Has about 3 miles on it. Usually I disconnect the battery just in case, but of course, I forgot last time I drove it, then this happened. New battery tomorrow, too.
  14. Have had zero time over the last two weeks, but will have this weekend available, although it will be about 96 degrees. The only thing to report is that the terrible machine shop has finished boring my "new" engine, but the only other guy they have is ill and is getting surgery, so the only work left, the honing of the cylinders and the possible planing of the cylinder head would be another 1-2 months, because they are down to one guy left. Who knows if any of this is true, but I'm incredibly frustrated. So, the British car place I'm dealing with found other shop in Maryland to do this work, so they have to pick up the pieces from the old shop and take everything to the new shop. They say should be finished in one more month. Seems like I've heard this before. That will put me at 10 months to get cylinders bored, honing, and possible decking I couldn't be more ticked off. I really have no choice but to try to ride it out. At least I don't need the engine anytime soon, but it would be nice to have it back to build up the rest of the chassis and focus only on the body. More progress later this weekend.
  15. Welcome back, Jeff. you're still way ahead of me.
  16. I hope you let us all know where the car will be appearing so we can see it in person!
  17. Yes, a good machine shop is very hard to find in the DC area, evidently. High demand usually equals terrible service. Yesterday and today, I got the passenger outer rocker spot welded on and it turned out fairly well. I then put on the rear fender and the door to do some very rough fitting (Photo 1). As I already knew, the outer rocker does not have a severe enough curve to it, so it sits up a little high, although it seems so mainly at the front. The door will touch the upper lip of the rocker when closed. The main issue is that I cannot place the 4 rivets (2 on each side) on the upper front and rear of the rocket, as they sit higher than the holes. I may be able to get a helper and put a pry bar behind the rocker in order to bend it enough to get the rivets in, but it may spring back into shape; that rocker is quite strong. Some of my spot welds burned through the outer rocker, but no the inner structure, so a couple welds didn't hold, so I'll have to fill in a few of them to make sure they are done properly. I'm going to wait on finishing this until finish the other side. The work on the lower fender turned out very well in its rough form. It will need a slight amount of contouring at the lower curve where it meets the door, but seems to fit well and look correct. I'm hoping the other rear fender doesn't need a patch panel, though! I also started to attack the driver's side. I was able to remove most of the inner rocker panel, which was very rotten (Photo 2). I still have a lot of work to do in drilling out the spot welds and taking what's remaining of it off. The center part of the vertical structure, although very rusty, still appears somewhat sold, so I may have some leeway in terms of cutting this piece in the middle. The front and rear sections are shot and will be cut out, much like I did on the passenger side. I almost finished the grille assembly (Photo 3). The inner grille with the bars has 2-3 bent bars in it and I think it could use a good polishing, so I will farm this out to my chrome shop in a few weeks. Should be easy and not too expensive, just want to make it as close to new as possible. The chromer did and outstanding job on the outer grille shell. The cloisonne MG badge only needed a little Windex to look new new, maybe the only part on the car that was pretty much good as is. Also refinished the radio delete plate, which is now in primer and ready for the body color paint. Pulled out a few more other smalls to work on the side as I go along.
  18. Finally got some time to work on the MG today. Made some decent progress. First, I was able to weld on the lower half of the outer rocker. I think I really have the spot weld part down now, almost no mistakes. Cleaned up easy with a little bit of grinding. I test-fitted the rear fender (Photo 1) to make sure it lines up properly with the outer rocker and it did (Photo 1). It will need some minor adjustment, but should go on easy when the time comes. Also finished welding that fender up, too, with all the extra cuts and bends I had to make to make the patch panel fit. What a mess. It actually turned out very well. Still needs a lot of finishing work, but the hard work is finished. Hard to see, since it's painted in primer black, but here's the outer rocker on the car (Photo 2). Now for the bad news. Do you think this repro out rocker panel fit properly? Not a chance. More repro garbage. The curvature on the lower part of the piece, from the shelf to the bottom edge does not have a severe enough curvature to it. So, my plan is to weld the bottom first, then line up the 4 rivet holes on each side with nails to position them, then weld in the top portion, then try to bend the curve enough to get the 4 holes lined up for rivets. Right now, I got some nails in the 4 holes, but they are way off. Not sure how I'm going to make this work yet. I tried bending it by hand off the car, but had minimal progress. I thought with the piece stabilized, I could get more leverage. More wasted time thanks for shoddy workmanship with these repro parts. In the meantime, I went over to the other side and started there. I removed the outer rocker panel upper portion that was spot welded to the main vertical piece (Photo 3). This went far easier than the other side, since I have the right equipment and generally know what I'm doing at this point. I should have this side done in half that time as the other side. Think I got a call about my engine last week, like I was promised? Not a chance. No call this week, either. I'll be calling again Monday to see what the holdup could possibly be. Engine should be ready to go and back at the British car shop now, but it is not. Still working side projects to keep it interesting. Just about have the grille assembly complete, really just need to clean up the inner grille structure, then bolt the thing together.
  19. I am selling a Delco Remy 943 J Generator, restored about 2 years ago. Adjustable functioning third brush, new wiring, new oil fill caps, new bearings and original ID tag, all as original. Works great, has maybe 200 miles on it. Comes with pulley and cut-out switch mounting screws as well. I do not know if this is the original pulley, but probably is. Is correct for 1929 -1933 Chevy 6 cyl., 1934-1935 Studebaker, 1929 GMC T11-T19, 1930-1932 GMC T11-T15- T19, 1934-1935 GMC T16 T18 T23 and 1929 -1931 Pontiac 6 cyl. Also can be used as a replacement for similar generator models, such as the 943 R and S, and maybe other models. Please check your parts interchange guides. Asking $240 + shipping costs via FedEx. Far cheaper than buying a core and having it rebuilt professionally. Call, text, or PM Chris 703-565-7476.
  20. Mike, thanks for the link. I will take a look as I can definitely use more tips on welding! Chris
  21. Mike, ok, I'll experiment without the primer and try to get it better dialed in. In the meantime, today, I painted the inner rocker with chassis black after I primered it a few days ago (Photo 2). Should give a little added protection and to reproduce the look of the original panel, which was a semi-gloss primer. Then, I thought I could prep and tack in the outer rocker panel, but guess what? The repro outer rocker panel doesn't fit, as expected. Here's a shot of it at the bottom (Photo 1). The lower flange should be flush with the existing flange from the inner rocker panel that is already installed. It's not even close. I tried bending it at the center of the curved radius, but do not have the leverage to bend it by hand. I think what I'll have to do is tack it properly flush at the bottom, then try bending it from the top, enough to get some clamps in place at the top, then try to bend it from there. Should have more leverage with the bottom being tacked in. Still have more prep work to do on the outer rocker, but will try again in a few days. All these crappy repro parts are adding on so much wasted time to the restoration. Still doing lots of smalls on the side, for when I get frustrated with the large stuff and need a break. Currently working on the inner front grille bars and their hardware. They may need some professional straightening. They are not too bad as is, but I don't think they are good enough. I called the British car shop about my engine again yesterday, as it's been another month. They claim that the machine shop is finished and shipping the engine over to their shop and it should be there within 1 week. I don't think I believe a word of it, but I hope it's true. Once it gets back to their shop, I will supply them all the ancillary parts that I restored and they would build the engine on a test stand, run it and break it in, as part of the deal. Keeping my fingers crossed. Today marks 3 years since I bought this heap. I can't imagine how all you other restorers finish your cars so quickly. I think I have another 3 years left at the pace I'm going.
  22. Mike, I tried a flapper wheel and that worked better, thanks again for the tip. I don't think the welding primer is an issue, I'd rather have it than not have it to try to prevent future rust forming, I think I just need to keep improving at welding. I think maybe my wire speed is not fast enough and I'm getting a lot of burning and heat, but not enough weld wire flow. Next round will be spot welding again, which is easier, but I still need to refine my technique. Chistech, I'm glad (glad isn't the right word!) that other folks are experiencing what I've been experiencing. I think the only solution is to find the right vendor, then always stay with them. My problem has been recently that I think I've found the right vendor and it works great for a while, but I get let down after a while and they are no longer anyone I want to do business with. I found the right mechanic, chrome vendor and tire vendor, but just about everyone else has failed or let me down at some point. I long for the day where I can simply drive, enjoy, and maintain my old cars, not constantly have to repair them mainly due to other peoples' failings or business shortcomings. At least I'm learning a lot and slowly improving my own skills. Have a great week everyone! -Chris