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Posts posted by hursst

  1. This weekend spent a lot of time on the fenders, had to do multiple rounds with them, wasn't getting the results I wanted, but getting closer as I go.  Had to change my sanding technique with these tight curves.  Had to do a lot of hammering to get a reasonably flat surface on the driver's rear fender.   Pretty happy with it, considering the damage that had been done to it at some point in time.  Still in progress here, but getting close (Photo 1). 


    Once I finished with the driver's rear fender, I brought out the driver's front fender and cut the bottom to size and began with the filler.  Had a few high spots, so had to hammer a lot as well.  Hopefully I don't damage my poor welding too much.  So far so good.  Here it is with an overall skim coat after an initial round found a lot of high spots (Photo 2).  I'll be starting the sanding this week.


    I've enjoyed doing all these other parts on the side, it breaks up the monotony and frustration of working in the more challenging areas, like the fenders.  I was able to sandblast, prime, and paint the original folding top (Photo 3).  Looks a lot better than it did a couple weeks ago.  I found that Ace Hardware's Khaki spray paint in gloss is almost a perfect match to the original color.  $3 a can!  Moss wants $24+ shipping for what is probably the same basic paint.  Works as new now. I have the wooden header on order and I'm still working on the two center bows which I'll re-attach shortly.  I'm also looking for a suitable replacement fabric to wrap bows #2 & #3, as they had a thin fuzzy fabric on top and a cloth wrap on the sides to protect the top.


    Just when I think I'm about finished with all the side projects, there's always something else that pops up that I haven't touched yet.  This time, I blasted and primed the door hinges (Photo 4).  These will go on the body to be painted body color with the body (and maybe doors).  I'll have to research how they painted the body exactly, but I think there were a lot of parts on there, just all painted body color.  Not sure if I'll have the body painted with everything attached, or everything off the car.  I'm also in the process of restoring all the original hinge attachment hardware to go with it.


    Happy Memorial Day







    • Like 3

  2. Back to the garage again today for a while.  Finished most of the hardware for the roadster top (Photo 1).  Also found some paint that matches the original color of the top mechanism.


    Continued on the driver's rear fender.  Put a lot more filler on it and got it fairly smooth this round.  Did a lot of hammering, which worked well.  I put a light guide coat on it, so it's ready for more sanding (Photo 2).  It will need even more filler a little lower than this portion, as there is still damage down there.  At some point, this fender was crushed and the tail light assembly destroyed.  They actually did a fairly good job repairing it, but the home made tail light assembly didn't help matters.  It's much better than it was when I started, but I think I can do a little better.  After this, I have the driver's side front fender left, and that will close round one.  I'll go back and do another round with some guide coats and inspection of the rest of the fender areas, not just the welded-in repairs, and try to get all of them ready for a final coat of epoxy primer over the most recently repaired areas.



    • Like 4

  3. Another nice day today, so spent most of it in the garage.  Did a lot more work to my fenders and valance panel.  Now that I'm getting more into the work with them, I realize they are much worse than I first thought.  First, my welding is sub-par, so I had to fix some pinholes, and that mostly just turned into expanding them into large holes, since the metal was so thin.  I also found that the repro patch panels are of a good gauge of steel, but poor production quality, with a lot of waviness built in.


    Here's a pile of the work I did today on the front and rear passenger side fenders and of the valance panel (Photo 1).  Things are looking better, but I wonder if I will be able to get the quality job I'm looking for, since I'm an amateur bodyman.  I started on the driver's side rear fender and it's a real mess.  I think a tree branch fell on it.  I spent a lot of time on it today, it's pretty wrinkly, but it's coming along.  Needs another round of filler to even it out more (Photo 2).


    I found a front bumper center section on ebay for only $10, so really happy about that.  Will need un-dented and re-chromed, but in effect, a free bumper core (Photo 3).






    • Like 3

  4. Took the day off today, mostly.  Off to the garage!


    On the passenger side fender, turns out the patch panel had some warping to start with, so ended up mudding the whole bottom of the panel.  Ended up with a lot more filler than I wanted, but it's fairly thin in most places (Photo 1).  I set it aside for now, I may do some more hammering on it to raise some of the low spots.


    I also got out my front lower valance panel, as I was not happy with the finish on that, either.  I sanded it a little and put filler on almost the whole piece.  It looked okay from 8 feet away, but up close it had some low areas that were not good enough.  I'm about half way through sanding it down now.  I think I'll get a much better finish this round, but we'll see.  


    I got tired of sanding all day, so I broke out the roadster top assembly (Photo 2).  This is the original top.  It was in fairly decent shape, but had a large tear that was repaired 50+ years ago, and all the stitching is dry-rotted.  The must have used a natural fiber.  The top is also getting a little brittle, so no way to save it with all those problems, but it will be a great template to make the replacement look correct.  I took it all apart.  The tack wood at the front had a small section of dry rot, so it will have to be replaced.  Too bad, as 95% of it is good.  The bad part is in a structural area, so it can't effectively be repaired, so I'll buy a repro.  I got the top mechanism oiled up and working fairly well (Photo 3).  I will blast it, paint i the correct light brown color, and replace the fuzzy wrap that goes around the top bows.  I should be able to replace the top myself when the time comes, now that I know exactly how it was done at the factory, with staples and tacks.  I'm cleaning up all the nuts, bolts, and fasteners, then I think I'll get out the blaster tomorrow or Sunday, and blast the door hinges while I'm at it.


    Next week, it is supposed to rain every day, so blasting the body will have to wait until after Memorial Day.


    It's great to see how many updates there are on everyone else's cars, since everyone is stuck at home (stuck at garage?)








    • Like 3

  5. Really nice day today, so got a few hours in with the MGA.  With the extra parts I got last week, I was able to complete the  heater control assembly (Photo 1).  I had to replace the plastic face plate, as the lettering on my original had worn off, almost completely and it didn't look very good anymore.  Of course, I am highly disappointed in the quality of the repro.  I understand they have to make it out of plastic, and not bakelite, but the lettering is the wrong size and some of the working is incorrect, although that may be to them choosing a later or earlier model than mine.  I may be able to erase some of the incorrect wording some other time, I'll have to see if I can do it without ruining the whole piece.


    Next, I moved on to the passenger front fender.  I plugged most of the pinholes and filled in the three holes that were made too low from the repro patch panel. (Photo 1).  I ground it all down and then applied a first round of body filler to see where I stood (Photo 2).  I ended up with some areas that had warped and sunken in a little, as the metal was so thin in some areas that I couldn't help but to weld thru and make some larger holes.  Shouldn't be a huge deal to bang these out to close to normal, but will add some more time.  In the last photo, I'm about half way through the process.  The filler areas are sunken in, and will require some metal hammering to get them to decent shape (Photo 3).  The top portion is fairly good so far, but the two side portions will need some heavier duty work.







    • Like 6

  6. Great suggestion!  Amazingly, they are still in business after 74 years.  I emailed their contact us link, and someone actually got back to me in only a few hours.  Sosmetal seems like a really great company!  Turns out it's a washer spacer for a 1949-1954 Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury with a manual transmission.  Go figure.  Now to find someone that is rebuilding an old Ford Trans...


    Thanks for everyone's inputs, as always.



    • Like 2

  7. Didn't do too much today.  Installed the side curtain escutcheons in the door top trim.


    Brought down a front fender to start on the final finishing.  First step is to fill in some pin holes from the welding; there's quite a few.  Next will be to cut the bottom tab even with the original panel.  Of course, the repro's tab was WAY off.  I'll also have to fill the holes, as they are way too low.  Trying to get it finished fairly cleanly to minimize body filler.


    Last, I got out the bag of tonneau cover snap fasteners that go around the rear deck.  They were very well plated, they only have some grime and age, no corrosion.  I polished the one of the lower left, so you can see the comparison to the unfinished ones.  All came out nice and clean, no replacing or expensive re-plating needed.



    • Like 1

  8. Here's a photo of a cable I got about 90% painted before I ran out of paint.  Hard to focus in on the cable housing, but the color is about right.  Make sure you research it a little and see if you'll like it.  It may not be right for everyone, and technically, it's not correct, but I prefer to have some coating on  steel parts to prevent rust.


    Side note, when I bought my 2000 Camaro new, it had no coating of any kind on the rear axle, drive shaft, and some of the suspension parts.  It had heavy flash rust before it even got off the truck from Canada.  I'm sure the salt spray on the way down didn't help.


    • Like 3

  9. Taylormade, well, it's not actually specifically for cables, I just said specialized paint so I don't write a novel explaining it. Also by "cables," I primarily mean the steel-wrapped cable housing, as well as the cables themselves.  The MGA is nothing but cable control for most of its dash controls, it looks like Rube Goldberg designed it under the dash and in the engine bay.


    Anyway, I've found that Eastwood's Carb Renew II is a really good paint for cables and cable housings, as it's not too shiny and not too dull, and seems to replicate the look of a zinc-coated cable/cable housing quite well, if that was even how they were made.  I also feel it's the closest paint that makes a metal part look like it is not painted.  My original cables and housings were rusty and/or generally corroded, so it hit them with either a wire wheel or Dremel tool to clean them up, then primer the housings and coat with this paint.  For the cables, I just use the paint, as they were not as corroded.

    • Like 2

  10. I got my latest parts order earlier in the week, so I was able to begin finishing up the rest of my side projects.  Thanks to Little British Car Co. for fulfilling the order when many other places are closed.


    The main project I did today was to restore the  door top trim pieces.  Here's what I started with (Photo 1).  The one on top is original to my car.  Half a dry-rotted piece of wood, half of the brittle leather remaining, although the metal curved piece was still good.  I took the other trim piece from a replacement door I bought.  The wood was dry rotted and had been broken and repaired many years ago.  I took off the cheap vinyl trim to show what it looks like inside. 


    I got two new pieces of wood from my parts order.  These are Moss pieces.  Guess what?  Running theme here...the repro pieces are not the right shape!  I had to spend about 30 minutes per piece to sand down the end where it connects to the metal, as it was too wide by a decent amount.  I cannot understand why they would go to the trouble to make a fairly difficult piece, but not get the overall dimensions right.  It costs the same to do it right versus doing it wrong, you still have to enter in measurements either way.  It's a high-quality piece and most of it is well done, but the most important measurement was off fairly significantly.


    Anyway, I got it sanded down, cleaned up the metal curved pieces, bought some new screws, and attached the metal pieces to the new wooden pieces (Photo 2).  Ready for "upholstery."   I took more of the leather I had from when I did the other small trim pieces a few weeks ago, and cut it to size, roughly based on the red vinyl piece.  Fit it and trimmed it to each piece, then attached the piping (Photo 3).  I still need to cut out the trim where the hole for the side curtain escucheon piece goes, but that should take just a few minutes tomorrow.


    I was able to save the original front trim piece like these, that goes around the top of the scuttle, above the dash board. For whatever reason, the front and rear pieces are vinyl with padding and piping, but the side and door pieces are leather with piping, but no padding.  Not sure why you wouldn't just make it all leather or all vinyl, but MG had different plans.


    I am mostly finished with the heater control assembly rebuild, but waiting on some specialized paint for the cables, as the aged and rusty raw steel cables will just rust again when I clean them up, so some type of preservative is warranted.  This should be good timing, as I should run out of most small projects on the side just about the time I'll be getting the body blasted, in about 2 weeks.




    • Like 6

  11. Some small progress made this weekend, needed to get out of the house for a while, but still got a few things finished.  I was successful in saving every part of the pull knobs, switches, and related pieces.  I was able to unseize them all, with some help from Evaporust and penetrant oil, and I was able to piece back all the shattered knobs with the help of Loctite crazy glue and JB Weld.  Here are two knobs in progress, pieced back together from about 5 broken pieces each (Photo 1).  The lighter areas are JB Weld.  I was able to sand them both to shape, drill a new hole (on the one on the left) and paint them with plastic semi-gloss.  All that's left is to hand-paint the lettering on the front of some of the knobs.


    Next, I took the NOS door and drilled some holes for the side curtain mount (Photo 2) and for the top trim piece (Photo 3).  I used measurements from my original driver's side door and mirrored them.  I'll have to make a few size adjustments to the far rear hole as it needs to be a little oblong.  I also repaired a couple dents I had missed during the first round, so I'll had to spray that bare metal area next time I do some more primering.


    Last, I have a preliminary appointment to get the body sand blasted in mid-May, so very happy about that.






    • Like 6

  12. Completed the stripping of the door frame to bare steel and painted with rust inhibitor (Photo 1).  This is the one original door, so needed a little more work than the NOS door (although not much more).  I'm going to leave the inside original, except for the "floor," which is all surface rust.  That will be the next step is to try to clean that up and stabilize it.  Very lucky that overall the door is as solid as it is.  The bad part about the NOS door is that it is missing most of the holes for trim, so I'll have to spend a lot of time lining all the holes up.  Luckily, I have two other doors with which to compare, so could be fairly easy.  After that, I will need to put on a layer of epoxy primer on the steel frame of both doors, then the doors will be finished.


    Other than the doors, I'm down to searching to scraps to restore while I wait for pollen season to be over so I can have the body blasted.  I went in my parts shed, and I'm down to two baggies left of parts.  I broke out the bag with all the dash knobs in them.  This was quite a mess when taking this stuff apart.  Most of it was very rusty and I ended up breaking 3 of the original Bakelite pull knobs, as the spring-loaded ball puts were frozen solid.  I eventually got them all off and I kept the shattered parts of the original knobs for future reconstruction.  Here's what I've completed so far.  The turn signal switch and horn button are finished (Photo 2).  I took apart the turn signal switch, as a new one is $180, to restore it.  Turned out to be in very good condition, just needed a good cleaning.  The exterior needed a little more work, but turned out really nicely.  The knob was shattered when I took it off originally, so I epoxied it back together, sanded it really well, then painted it with plastic bumper matte black paint.  You would never know it's not as delivered from the factory.  Here's the dash light dimmer switch in pieces (Photo 3).  It was a real mess.  Everything is seized, the knob was shattered, and there was a lot of corrosion on the brass innards.  I'm soaking the main portion of the switch in evapo-rust, hoping to free it up so it will turn freely.  I'm trying super glue to glue the knob back together, then sanding and some paint.  The other parts are cleaning up nicely and should function as expected if I can get the rest working.  I really don't like the repro knobs, they are just cheap shiny plastic.  Although they look reasonable and get the job done, I think it takes a lot away from the Bakelite originals.  Just looks cheaper.  I'm hoping I don't have a scenario like Christmas Story, where he tries to glue the lamp back together, only to find it hopelessly destroyed when he tried to use it again.

    Really getting excited about the car now, I can now see a light at the end of the tunnel.  The body repair will be the last major hurdle, and it shouldn't be that bad once I see what welding I'll have to do.  I think it's possible I could have this car finished for Hershey 2021. 


    Safety Fast!






    • Like 5

  13. Definitely 70's, from the box logo.  I did some deeper diving and found that it is an arming key/switch-


    It looks like the ones that guys in the 70's would put on the front fender of their Corvette or Chevelle that was part of the factory accessory alarm system.  Maybe not the some exact style in the photo below, but same concept.






  14. Hello,

       I have a couple of NOS (Aftermarket) starter solenoids I got for free from a junk yard in a large parts stash, can't find info on them.  What I do know are the part numbers, they have been sitting since 1970, and a majority of the parts have been Ford.


    NS 9146, made by RS Automotive (first two photos)

    NS 8140, made by RS Automotive (third photo)


    Any idea what these fit?  I can't find any info on the ultranet...


    Thanks for any ideas.  -Chris




  15. Jeff, looking great!  I thought maybe I'd catch up to you during the down time, but now you're pulling ahead.  Can't wait to see this come together in the home stretch.  What will the exterior and interior colors be?  Are you going to take this thing to shows (when they have shows again, someday), or are you just going to drive it...or both?



    • Like 2

  16. Thanks Keiser.  I will probably have to make a lot more of them, since there are tons of them that joins the rocker panel trim to the weld seem of the rocker panel, and 90% of my fasteners were rusted to nothing when I took the car apart.


    Today I finished the bonnet release mechanism parts (Photo 1), which cleaned up easily and nicely.  I dumped a lot of other hardware such as the bonnet latch hook and some more fender mounting nuts and bolts into some evapo-rust to let them sit for a few days so I can get those cleaned up nicely as well. 


    In between everything, I continued to work on the door (Photo 2).  This is an original door to the car, so there is a lot of surface rust on the lower part of the door, but it's still quite solid.  Due to the rust, I decided to clean it up in sections, then use some rust encapsulator to seal it up and prevent it from coming back (in black in the photo).  The inside of the door skin is reasonable, so I will probably leave it alone and just clean it, but the lower inside of the door frame has a lot or surface rust, so I'll have to clean that up the best I can, then encapsulate it  None of this will been seen, as the door panel and pouch will cover it up. 


    Other than that, I dug out the tach drive cable and it's a little worse for wear, with some fraying of the cable and disintegration of the cable wrapping and a lot of rust on the steel cable tube wrap, where the plastic cable wrapping has come off.  I'm going to replace the part, don't think I can work with this one.



    • Like 6

  17. Hello, here are some photos of the battery access cutout and the hole where the cutout goes.  As far as I know, all the wooden pieces are original.  Please also note the small spring attached to the cutout piece, which holds it in place and prevents rattling.  You can also see how the floorboard butts up to the kick panel.  If you have further questions, please let me know.



    • Like 1