Fr Mike

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Everything posted by Fr Mike

  1. I have a '36 P2. A search for (rear) brake parts was unsuccessful. The auto machine shop that rebuilt my P2's engine had to make new pistons for the rear wheel units. The general message was that the brake parts for the '36 are unavailable.
  2. The battery box in my P2 looks a lot like your drawing, Keiser31.
  3. What do you think about the unit described at http://rogusradiorepair.com/Content/Radiolink.html for playing though the old radio & speaker? I think an MP-3 player etc. would work ok with that set-up in my 36 Plymouth (original AM radio). Feedback?
  4. In my 1931 Buick 8-57, the upper heater hose (heater intake hose) connects to the radiator intake hose (the hose from the head to the upper radiator tank). The lower heater hose (heater outlet hose) connects to the lower radiator tank outlet hose between the lower radiator tank and the water pump. I believe it is the same hook-up on a 1932 Buick.
  5. My 1936 Plymouth Plymouth P2 owner's manual (page 22) states, regarding the "HEAVY-DUTY AIR CLEANER (Special Equipment) . . . fill to indicated level with one pint of No. 50 (Heavy) engine oil. If the vehicle is operated constantly in extreme cold weather, a lighter oil may be used to advantage."
  6. . . . and the heater, and the cowl lights, and the turn signal . . .I'm 81. Aren't battery shut-off switches and maintainers wonderful?
  7. Those of us who have driven, worked on, crawled under, around, and in our old Buicks will agree that a Buick sure ain't no Model A! Well, about 73 years ago, my family & I drove from Chicago to Key West, Florida (you had to take a ferry to Key West in those days) and back in a 1929 2 door Model A sedan. The roads were one narrow lane in each direction, usually with no shoulder, and, by today's standards, not in very good repair. We stayed in "Tourist Courts (cabins), and forget indoor toilets! The only car trouble we had was a fan belt and several flats. Now that I have a 1931 Buick 4 door touring sedan with a total of 30K miles on it from new (roughly commensurate with the "A" 's mileage at that time), I would not hesitate to make the same trip. I mean it is a Buick, right? It's in good shape, and I would take the appropriate tools & spare parts as has already been said. . . When do we leave? . . . Caravan? . . . Hmmmm . . . . .
  8. My opinion is---No. My P2 vibration problem didn't begin to occur until about 30mph on smooth pavement. It is my opinion that the two u-joints on my P2 provided too much "slack" to control vibration. I finally had to install a Spicer slip joint assembly. Now my P2 drives as smooth as silk, all the way up to 55 (I don't drive it faster)! Good luck!
  9. When you have checked the possible sources of vibration that have been mentioned, qnd if you still have vibration, you might consider the drive shaft & u-joints & balance. I had an ongoing problem with my '36 Plymouth P2. After checking out various sources & fixing this & that, There was still vibration. I had the u-joints rebuilt and balanced all together & reinstalled the assembly on the car. There was still vibration! Now even worse. One of the u-joints had slipped on the shaft. When this was remedied, at last no more vibration. Ah well, so goes the hobby!
  10. In addition to what has already been said about really heavy battery cables with your negative cable being attached to the starter etc, and positive cable attached to the frame, ground straps are sometimes needed (especially when the engine and body are mounted to the frame on rubber), connecting engine block/ frame/body. Adding a 6 volt headlight relay will not only prolong the life of the light switch but also will increase further the brightness of the headlights. And if the reflectors are re-plated by UVIRA (uvira@terragon.com) & halogen plug-in bulbs used, the final result oif all this will be lights as bright as or brighter than sealed beam lights . . . without need to re-wire and no additional drain on the battery.
  11. You can have your headlights as bright as or brighter than sealed beam headlights without changing your car's original wiring. Have your reflectors nickel-plated and polished then send them to UVIRA (<william atwood="" [="">uvira@terragon.com>) for special plating, Use plug-in halogen bulbs (about 32/32 cp). For even brighter lights and to lengthen the life of your light switch, make sure your lights are well grounded and add headlight relays. The drain on the battery is about the same as the original bulbs and your original appearance and wiring are still intact. I did this on my 1931 Buick and 1936 Plymouth. The cost is reasonable, and the fix is permanent. An increasing number of people have found out about this process and love it!</william>
  12. Hi Jim! I have a set of 4 hubcaps, but don't know what year Plymouth they fit. Maybe they will work for you. On the back side, the diameter of the part that makes contact with the wheel clips is 6". The outside rim to outside rim diameter of the caps is 7".The caps also have the word "Plymouth" inside a parallelogram.
  13. I went through the same frustration you have with fuel lines. Over time a deposit builds up on the inside surface, effectively reducing the diameter (like in those heart plaque commercials on TV), finally producing fuel delivery problems. Blowing out the lines doesn't remove the built-up deposit. "Roto-rooting" may do some good. Replacing the lines with new ones is the way to go for fully efficient lines.
  14. The radio control head for the 1935 and 1936 Plymouth was mounted vertically like this one, sliding into the dash in place of the driver's side ash tray. The numbers on the dial were also at a 45 degree angle. (See attached photo.) It may be for a Chrysler product around that time.
  15. "Then and Now" (old car parts & services), did the fuel pumps for my 1931 Buick and 1936 Plymouth, with diaphragms compatible with the current reformulated gasoline. I am very pleased with their work, prices, and customer relations. Ask for Tom. 781-335-1579.
  16. Hi Jules! I have an 1931 8-57, but the attached pix may be helpful. I restored a heater and found an NOS rheostat type switch and an NOS bronze summer/winter shutoff valve. This was a real fun project and gives a lot of satisfaction on chilly days here in N.E. Wisconsin. You can bake bread in the cabin now!
  17. I remember touring with my family from Chicago to Key West, Florida, two or three times during the 1930's in a model A pulling a tent trailer. Most of the roads were narrow and one lane in each direction. We could camp almost anywhere, but also could stay at "tourist courts." We had no problems with the model A, only having several flats and replacing a fan belt on one occasion. You could buy ethyl or "white gas" most places. The gasoline was pumped by hand to fill a clear reservoir at the top of the pump marked by gallons, and gravity did the rest. "Potty" stops were served mostly by two-holer outhouses ("chick sales").
  18. Something else to consider is the fuel iine. I wrestled with a similar problem when I bought my '31 Buick 8-57. The original carburetor and fuel pump were rebuilt, checked out, and fine-tuned, and I still had fuel supply problems. Come to find out that, although the total mileage on the car was only 25K, the original brass fuel line had acquired, over the years, a veneer that was enough to reduce fuel supply to the carburetor. The fuel line had to be replaced, (and the gas tank was also cleaned out and relined). Then, no more problems! (Restoration Supply has brass tubing.) Good luck!
  19. As an update: actually, it turns out that the spring has nothing to do with removing the trim ring from the tailight bucket. Closer examination reveals that the ring has several small "tabs" that turn under the rim of the bucket, holding the ring on. These need very carefully to be folded back.
  20. Well, I checked yet again underneath the trim ring on an old '36 Plymouth tailight asembly I have, and, because of looking under there again after many other times, I DID finally figure out how to get the ring off. The spring that holds it in place has thre "kinks" in it aparently designed for a special tool to be inserted to compress it so that the ring can be released. It's really very simple (if you have the tool) and I can't believe we couldn't figure it out. I guess we're just not smarter that fifth (third? first?) graders. You do have to know how to remove the lens first, though.
  21. My shop manuals don't say anything about it, and everybody I have consulted, including myself, is baffled. I know they come off, but I don't want to ruin them trying blind.
  22. Anybody know how to get the chrome trim rings off of a 1936 Plymouth P2 tailight buckets? Mine need re-plating, and nobody seems to know how to do this, except to plate the whole bucket and then re-paint all but the rings (!)
  23. Todd, Was an asistant priest in Decatur years ago when I was in my twenties. Am in my 80's now, so I imagine there have been a few changes. Arrived in a '47 Dodge fluid drive and traded for a new '55 Plymouth at Bill Starr's dealership.
  24. Hi poci1957! For whatever it may be worth, a friend and I always try to go to Spring Jefferson every year. The swap meet is humongeous and we like to try to cover it. We live in Green Bay and usually start down in the wee, small hours on Friday, so as to arive for the swap meet early in the day. We, too, are more interested in the swap meet than the other stuff, and by going on Friday miss the larger weekend crowd. We have also learned that most of the venders are there on Friday. We head for home by about 6PM. Another thing is that motel reservations are virtualy imposible to get anywhere near Jefferson, as they are booked way ahead.
  25. <o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" http:="" forums.aaca.org="" images="" smilies="" redface.gif="" border="0" alt="" title="Embarrassment" smilieid="2" class="inlineimg"></o:smarttagtype> A while back, I posted a need for a mechanic in northeastern who is acquainted with old cars. Nobody could steer me to one. Well, after much searching, I finally found one! My 1936 Plymouth P2 needed an engine rebuild and was off the road. I HAD to find one! The shop I found is in DePere, 15 miles from where I live in<st1:city w:st="on"><st1> Green Bay</st1></st1:city>. It has been in business for a little over 40 years and the founder, his son, and another guy have been working together there for the last 12 years. ("Mike" at 920-336-8261). It is a complete machine shop and works on all vintages. Last year, they rebuilt two 1930 Chevy engines and currently are rebuilding a 1928 Studebaker and a 1942<st1:city w:st="on"><st1> Plymouth</st1></st1:city> engine. They just finished a complete engine rebuild of my '36, including timing chain, clutch, correct detailing of the engine compartment, and rebuilding of the steering box. The price is very fair, and I am very happy with the quality and results of their work and, importantly, their honesty. The reason I didn't locate them before was because of their name: "<st1></st1><st1><st1>Bay</st1><st1> Speed</st1><st1> Center</st1></st1>, which they chose back in the '60's. I hope this information may be helpful to others in our N.E. Wisconsin area.