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Fr Mike

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  • Birthday 06/04/1929

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  1. I have a '36 P2. A search for (rear) brake parts was unsuccessful. The auto machine shop that rebuilt my P2's engine had to make new pistons for the rear wheel units. The general message was that the brake parts for the '36 are unavailable.
  2. The battery box in my P2 looks a lot like your drawing, Keiser31.
  3. What do you think about the unit described at http://rogusradiorepair.com/Content/Radiolink.html for playing though the old radio & speaker? I think an MP-3 player etc. would work ok with that set-up in my 36 Plymouth (original AM radio). Feedback?
  4. In my 1931 Buick 8-57, the upper heater hose (heater intake hose) connects to the radiator intake hose (the hose from the head to the upper radiator tank). The lower heater hose (heater outlet hose) connects to the lower radiator tank outlet hose between the lower radiator tank and the water pump. I believe it is the same hook-up on a 1932 Buick.
  5. My 1936 Plymouth Plymouth P2 owner's manual (page 22) states, regarding the "HEAVY-DUTY AIR CLEANER (Special Equipment) . . . fill to indicated level with one pint of No. 50 (Heavy) engine oil. If the vehicle is operated constantly in extreme cold weather, a lighter oil may be used to advantage."
  6. . . . and the heater, and the cowl lights, and the turn signal . . .I'm 81. Aren't battery shut-off switches and maintainers wonderful?
  7. Those of us who have driven, worked on, crawled under, around, and in our old Buicks will agree that a Buick sure ain't no Model A! Well, about 73 years ago, my family & I drove from Chicago to Key West, Florida (you had to take a ferry to Key West in those days) and back in a 1929 2 door Model A sedan. The roads were one narrow lane in each direction, usually with no shoulder, and, by today's standards, not in very good repair. We stayed in "Tourist Courts (cabins), and forget indoor toilets! The only car trouble we had was a fan belt and several flats. Now that I have a 1931 Buick 4 door touring sedan with a total of 30K miles on it from new (roughly commensurate with the "A" 's mileage at that time), I would not hesitate to make the same trip. I mean it is a Buick, right? It's in good shape, and I would take the appropriate tools & spare parts as has already been said. . . When do we leave? . . . Caravan? . . . Hmmmm . . . . .
  8. My opinion is---No. My P2 vibration problem didn't begin to occur until about 30mph on smooth pavement. It is my opinion that the two u-joints on my P2 provided too much "slack" to control vibration. I finally had to install a Spicer slip joint assembly. Now my P2 drives as smooth as silk, all the way up to 55 (I don't drive it faster)! Good luck!
  9. When you have checked the possible sources of vibration that have been mentioned, qnd if you still have vibration, you might consider the drive shaft & u-joints & balance. I had an ongoing problem with my '36 Plymouth P2. After checking out various sources & fixing this & that, There was still vibration. I had the u-joints rebuilt and balanced all together & reinstalled the assembly on the car. There was still vibration! Now even worse. One of the u-joints had slipped on the shaft. When this was remedied, at last no more vibration. Ah well, so goes the hobby!
  10. In addition to what has already been said about really heavy battery cables with your negative cable being attached to the starter etc, and positive cable attached to the frame, ground straps are sometimes needed (especially when the engine and body are mounted to the frame on rubber), connecting engine block/ frame/body. Adding a 6 volt headlight relay will not only prolong the life of the light switch but also will increase further the brightness of the headlights. And if the reflectors are re-plated by UVIRA (uvira@terragon.com) & halogen plug-in bulbs used, the final result oif all this will be lights as bright as or brighter than sealed beam lights . . . without need to re-wire and no additional drain on the battery.
  11. You can have your headlights as bright as or brighter than sealed beam headlights without changing your car's original wiring. Have your reflectors nickel-plated and polished then send them to UVIRA (<william atwood="" [="">uvira@terragon.com>) for special plating, Use plug-in halogen bulbs (about 32/32 cp). For even brighter lights and to lengthen the life of your light switch, make sure your lights are well grounded and add headlight relays. The drain on the battery is about the same as the original bulbs and your original appearance and wiring are still intact. I did this on my 1931 Buick and 1936 Plymouth. The cost is reasonable, and the fix is permanent. An increasing number of people have found out about this process and love it!</william>
  12. Hi Jim! I have a set of 4 hubcaps, but don't know what year Plymouth they fit. Maybe they will work for you. On the back side, the diameter of the part that makes contact with the wheel clips is 6". The outside rim to outside rim diameter of the caps is 7".The caps also have the word "Plymouth" inside a parallelogram.
  13. I went through the same frustration you have with fuel lines. Over time a deposit builds up on the inside surface, effectively reducing the diameter (like in those heart plaque commercials on TV), finally producing fuel delivery problems. Blowing out the lines doesn't remove the built-up deposit. "Roto-rooting" may do some good. Replacing the lines with new ones is the way to go for fully efficient lines.
  14. The radio control head for the 1935 and 1936 Plymouth was mounted vertically like this one, sliding into the dash in place of the driver's side ash tray. The numbers on the dial were also at a 45 degree angle. (See attached photo.) It may be for a Chrysler product around that time.
  15. "Then and Now" (old car parts & services), did the fuel pumps for my 1931 Buick and 1936 Plymouth, with diaphragms compatible with the current reformulated gasoline. I am very pleased with their work, prices, and customer relations. Ask for Tom. 781-335-1579.
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