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fred deagostino

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Everything posted by fred deagostino

  1. I have a 190 deg. thermostat in this engine (recent rebuild) and I just don't have a warm fuzzy feeling about it's running at 190. What's more, the temp. spike after shutoff goes up to 210 or maybe a bit more. Anyone have some insights on this, or am I worrying about nothing? Thanks in advance!
  2. 51Patty400, yes, the kits have an acid step. First step is the Marine clean which is a very strong detergent. This can be mixed up to 1 to 10 with water for cleaning varnish etc. I mix it 1 to 1 which makes it so damn strong it will cut the surface rust too and leave a grey color where the rust is/was. Then, three thorough rinses. No need to dry here. Go right on to the Metal Ready which is actually (as I recall) Phosphoric acid. Rinse three times again. How long depends on the condition of the inside of the tank, you just have to keep looking in there. The Metal ready (acid) really does not need to be left in there long, it's the strong Marine clean that's really cutting stuff, watch for the grey. In fact, if you've mixed it strong like I do it'll leave nothing but grey everywhere it gets on the outside of the tank. Then it's down to the drying thing. A few days in the hot sun, or one of my favorites if I'm trying to move things along, is the exhaust end of you shop vac. 'Lots of nice hot low pressure air. Anyway, I don't sell the stuff or own stock in the company so I have no axe to grind. It's just that we've used it in the shop with good results. As for car tanks, I'd really have to say that the kit is woefully shy on the amount of sealer needed to cover all that area, and stacks the deck against the user. Bear in mind that as the surfaces get covered, the 'puddle' you're moving around in there keeps getting smaller and smaller. Oh, one last thing, you have to make sure to blow out any pickup tubes, outlets, vents, fittings etc. after the excess is drained off or you're tank is effectively done for. So that's a not so brief 'how I dunnit'
  3. Thanks Owen, I started to suspect that might be the case just today while staring down the shift tower, and realized the pin on mine did not go all the way thru both sides the way you'd described the senior. Oh well, it's not the end of the world, but in my perfect world I tapped out the broken pin without anything falling down inside, and then someone handed me a NOS pin which I just tapped right back in there. 'Nice to dream, no? Many thanks..............
  4. Jay, I don't doubt you for a minute. I believe I was as scrupulous as you in the application, so indeed, we'll have to wait and see over time. I did have an advantage though in that mine was a relatively small tank, and, I used two cans of sealer which does make the coating part of the process a bit easier. I believe the kits are inherently too small for car gas tanks, at least as regards the amount of sealer.
  5. 'Gents,I've been following this topic with interest since we've been using the POR kit for motorcycle gas tanks where I work for the past 4 yrs. We've had no problems with the product at all, and since it's a custom paint shop we seal a lot of tanks. One note though is that most tanks we do are either new repops, or factory Harley tanks which are very good tanks (not the repops, the Harleys). At any rate, based on my own experience (I do all the tank sealing) the two things that the POR product cannot handle are sever flaking which is nearly impossible to get out and will leave a void should the flake let go at a later date, and secondly, even one drop of water/dampness in a seam or elsewhere, will actually cause a reaction with the sealer causing it to swell, bubble, churn, get hot. Either one will allow gas to get under the sealer and that's the kiss of death for the whole job. Bike tanks are, I think, better suited to sealing since they're easier to inspect for rust and more importantly, have no baffles to complicate coating evenly inside. Nevertheless I've just done a '33 plymouth tank for my own car which was a good candidate so we'll just have to see how that works out over time. I know it was done to the best of my ability so if it fails over time I will most certainly let you know. Stay tuned.............
  6. Well, I think I'll just wait it out 'till you check with your friend. I have other things to do on the car in the meantime, besides, in my experience it seldom pays to go trying to re-invent someone else's wheel. If I were to get rambunctious, knock out the pin, and hear some parts falling down thru the transmission I'd have to go stand in front of the mirror and ream myself for being so damn inpatient. :-) Nah, I think I'll wait this one out........thanks again. sincerely, The Coward
  7. Owen, thanks very much, that is helpful. It's about what I'd guessed might be going on in there, although I was having nightmares of the pin being a tapered affair or some other such special deal. Tell me, does this need to be done with the top cover off the tranny, or can it be accomplished without springs and retaining collar falling down into the trans?
  8. Well, I have another question for you all. I have to replace the pin at the base of my gear shift lever before someone gets their eye poked out. The problem is I haven't seen that item listed anywhere. Does anyone know where one of those little devils may be found? I also can't quite make out just how they are removed and replaced. I see the base end sticking out from the tower but nothing coming out the other side. This is a '37 stick trans. from a 6 cyl. sedan. I just drove my car today for the first time and discovered that first gear position puts the stick inside the rim of the steering wheel so, yeah, it's a bit of an issue :-) As always, all help/direction is greatly appreciated, and, thanks in advance!
  9. Thanks all! I believe I can hash this out now with some help/sanity checks along the way. It's true, the unrestrained blast at the full 12V is impressive but fired from a 6V source the sound is prettier (did I just use that word?). By the way, the horns are from a '40 120 sedan. I did neglect to mention that important bit of info. but the formula using resistance as the start point seems to apply to any like application so I'll give that approach a try. 'Like I said, you guys haven't let me down yet! I've been off site for a bit but when I ran into this thing I knew where to go. Thanks again......!
  10. I've just switched to 12v and being 'electrically challenged' in a big way, need to find out what size resistor will protect those beautiful horns. They blow on 12v but sound harsh. Loud as a locomotive, but harsh. The resistor seems to be governed by the amp draw of the horns, which I can find no info on at all. Not that I'd probably understand it anyway. Anyone been thru this? C'mon, you guys never let me down!
  11. Yup, they're small enough, but since my 'Packard' has a model A Tudor body the passenger is going to suffer mightily in the footwell dept. On the plus side, I'll be on the other side of the car... Always look for the silver lining ! :-) Slick little heaters though. The miniature radiator that seves as the core would be cool even as a wall hanger although why waste it when you have around 30 gal. of coolant meandering around in that str. 8.
  12. Speedster and Mrpushbutton, Thanks! I was kinda/sorta quessing that was the situation but was too gutless to just go ahead and do it. By the way, regarding the heater itself, you should see this thing. It's basically round with a rotating grill in front, art deco type stuff, with the name Perfection on the bottom of the grill. 'Neat little thing. I found it lying on the floor of a late 40's Int. pickup in the junkyard but it's not from that truck. I'm guessing it was one of those generic type things that got used in a variety of vehicles (?). 'Ever hear of these?
  13. Gents, I'm in the process of putting a heater into this cobbled up car of mine and since the 282 motor in it was missing it's rad. and heater I'm looking for a sanity check on the inlet/outlet for the heater. There's a fitting with a shutoff valve here that had to have come from either the cyl. head between #5 and 6 cylinders, or the snout on the water pump. And also, I'm guesstimating that the inlet to the heater is the aformentined cyl head location and the return would be A: the one on the pump snout, or B: the top tank of the radiator (custom made) which also has provisions for the same size fitting. Anyone have an intact 1940 120 that they could take a look at and point me in the right direction? C'mon, you guys haven't let me down yet! :-) Thanks in advance.................
  14. Thanks Speedster, that's a neat bit of info., I'm feelling better by the moment! Oh no, wait, Steamcar's post follows yours mentioning the retaining spring selling for $5 and our friends at Kanter just charged me something like $24 for one. If I'd known what it looked like I'd have made a sleeve on the lathe to set beneath the thermostat and been done with it. I'll be a little more carefull before I dial that 'Jersey # again. Thanks again gentlemen.
  15. Nope, no endurance runs. The only thing being tested for endurance in this car would be ME. Actually, there's a couple of older pics in the gallery. One is the donor car and the other is the project car titled Big Nosed Kate (wife's moniker for it). Thanks.......
  16. I have another question for consideration: Since my donor car had no radiator or outlet neck when I got it I had the guy who made my custom radiator intsall a 1 1/2" neck on the top tank. Now, a year or more later, I find that the original 282 neck (I still don't have one of those) was 1 3/4". What I do have is a neck from a '37 6 cyl. which according to Kanter uses the same thermostat as the eight, and also will fit my head. If I'm thinking right, the thermostat is the greatest flow resrictor in either application and the smaller 6 cyl. neck should not change anything flow-wise. Of course if the correct neck for the 8 turned up I could easily have the larger inlet retro fitted to my radiator. My current plan is the run the smaller neck and watch for problems. I'd be curious to know if this sounds like a fool's game or there's actually some merit to the plan. Fire away.........
  17. Thanks everyone. Fortunatly for me my local NAPA guy and his dad own a '39 120 so he has a soft spot for my project. I'll have the poor devil pour over his books and see if he can turn something up. I actually didn't even give NAPA a thought (Sheeesh)! That failing I'll try Merritt, Kanter didn't have them nor did Terrill. I'll check out the ebay lead also. Thanks much for the quick responses!
  18. I have a '40 282 engine that I'm just finishing up and just recently discovered that Points and condensor are not available for the Auto-Lite distributor. That's a bad thing! Has anyone else run across this hiccup in their travels? The tag number (as near as I can read it) is 1GP 450 A 4u. I was wondering if I could just modify the plate to accept an easily found point set? Your collective thoughts?
  19. Thanks Frank, I'd spoke to Universal Vintage Tire and they listed 650x16's on 4 1/2" rims for some early Dodge's and I think Pontiacs. The guy I'd spoke to sugested I try checking in with folks who'd experimented with other combinations than stock to get a better idea of what does and doesn't work so here I am. My gut feel is that maybe a 600x16 would be the farthest I could push those 4" rims, unless somebody checks in with news to the contrary, which'd be nice. Abyway, thanks for the info, and Merry Christmas to all.
  20. UBB7-ML-262926-ML- Fred...Welcome to the AACA Forum. Moved your query to the Technical Questions area. Regards, Peter J.
  21. 'Gents, I'm looking for some insight/opinions on just how big of a tire I can practicaly put on a 4" wide, 16" rim. (?) So far it appears the skinny 4 inchers held 550x16's, I'd like to use 650's, Any and all help will be most appreciated. Your collective thoughts ?
  22. From the album: Packard

    str8 Tudor mockup
  23. From the album: Packard

    '40 120 sedan, engine/drivetrain donor
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