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jquam

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Posts posted by jquam

  1. Thanks for the reply Mark

    I know the procedure of starting on battery for a stronger spark on initial starting and then switching to mag, however, on my Bosch ignition switch there is a pushbutton built into the switch lever and I was wondering if this needs to be depressed when starting on battery. A schematic would be very helpful to see how the switch functions.

    Thanks again for the help!!

    John

  2. Does anyone have a schematic or hands on knowledge of a Bosch DU4, Duplex Model 4A Magneto with a Bosch Duplex coil switch.

    Switch terminals are Bat+, Bat-, Mag 1, Mag 2.

    The switch is 3-position: "O", "B", and "M", with a pushbutton in the switch handle. The wiring seems pretty straight forward, however, I'm not sure how the system operates in the Battery position.

    The application is a 1914 KisselKar, semi-racer.

    Thanks

  3. Does anyone have an electrical schematic or hands on knowledge of a Bosch DU4 Duplex Model 4A with a Bosch Duplex coil switch. Terminals on the switch are Bat+, Bat-,

    Mag 1, Mag 2. The wiring seems straight forward, however, I'm not sure how the switch works in the Battery position

    The switch is 3 position: O (off), B (battery), M (mag) plus a push button in the switch handle.

    The application is a 1914 Kissel Kar semi-racer

    Thanks

    John

  4. HVLP is definately the way to go. To handle the tasks you listed, you're asking a lot from a single gun.

    For high build primer you want a 2.2-2.3 tip; for 2K primer/sealer a 1.7; and 1.3-1.4 for final paint/clear.

    I would recommend a less expensive 2.2-2.3 gun for high build primer only; another 1.7 gun for primer sealer and a better 1.3-1.4 gun for final paint.

  5. Jerry

    Thanks so much for all the research work you are doing...once again I really appreciate it. I am in the process of trying to track down a Kissel like mine to get some information. Kissel only used the Esterline system for 2 years 1913-1914 so it makes it a little harder to find information

    Regards

    John

  6. I am currently restoring a 1914 Kissel Kar 4-40 Semi Racer which uses an Esterline generator system. The Esterline is also used on a 1913 Mitchell, 1913 Stutz, 1914 Knox. According to the "Automotive Wiring Manual" (1912 to 1920) the Esterline generator is connected to a "Series B Controller". Does anyone have any info on this device....is it maybe internal to the generator...

    Thanks for any help

    John

  7. I am currently restoring a 1914 Kissel 4-40 Semi Racer with an Esterline generator system. This is the same sytem used on the 1913 Stutz, 1913 Mitchell and 1914 Knox. According to the "Atomotive Wiring Manual" (1912 to 1920) the generator is shown connected to a "Series B Controller". Does anyone have any info on this device...Is it maybe internal to the generator??

    Thanks for any help

    John

  8. I had a problem with the left rear brake not releasing when the brake pedal was released and the right rear releasing slowly. I pulled the rear hubs and everything looked okay, however, the only way the LR brake would release was to open the bleeder.

    All the hoses have been replaced...In going over the rear system I found a kink in right rigid brake line, so I replaced both R&L rigid lines. The rear brakes now seem to operate properly, however, I now have very little brake pedal (approx 1-2"off floor). I bled the system and don't seem to get any more air, however, the brake pedal is about half of what is was before I replaced the lines.

    Any ideas???

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