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jquam

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Everything posted by jquam

  1. I have a 1934 Chevrolet Master Phaeton that I am trying to gather some info on. It is a Holden body (meaning built in Australia I would assume), left hand drive, with the following body tag: Holden S Body #436 Model Chev Mst Series Tourer Job # (Blank) Thanks for any help you can provide John
  2. 21raceabout Thanks very much for the information, I really appreciate it!! Regards John
  3. Thanks for the reply Mark I know the procedure of starting on battery for a stronger spark on initial starting and then switching to mag, however, on my Bosch ignition switch there is a pushbutton built into the switch lever and I was wondering if this needs to be depressed when starting on battery. A schematic would be very helpful to see how the switch functions. Thanks again for the help!! John
  4. Does anyone have a schematic or hands on knowledge of a Bosch DU4, Duplex Model 4A Magneto with a Bosch Duplex coil switch. Switch terminals are Bat+, Bat-, Mag 1, Mag 2. The switch is 3-position: "O", "B", and "M", with a pushbutton in the switch handle. The wiring seems pretty straight forward, however, I'm not sure how the system operates in the Battery position. The application is a 1914 KisselKar, semi-racer. Thanks
  5. Does anyone have an electrical schematic or hands on knowledge of a Bosch DU4 Duplex Model 4A with a Bosch Duplex coil switch. Terminals on the switch are Bat+, Bat-, Mag 1, Mag 2. The wiring seems straight forward, however, I'm not sure how the switch works in the Battery position The switch is 3 position: O (off), B (battery), M (mag) plus a push button in the switch handle. The application is a 1914 Kissel Kar semi-racer Thanks John
  6. HVLP is definately the way to go. To handle the tasks you listed, you're asking a lot from a single gun. For high build primer you want a 2.2-2.3 tip; for 2K primer/sealer a 1.7; and 1.3-1.4 for final paint/clear. I would recommend a less expensive 2.2-2.3 gun for high build primer only; another 1.7 gun for primer sealer and a better 1.3-1.4 gun for final paint.
  7. Jerry Thanks so much for all the research work you are doing...once again I really appreciate it. I am in the process of trying to track down a Kissel like mine to get some information. Kissel only used the Esterline system for 2 years 1913-1914 so it makes it a little harder to find information Regards John
  8. Jerry Would you happen to know of the availability of the Type B cutout referenced in your reply... Thanks John
  9. Jerry Thanks so much for the information on the Esterline generator. I really appreciate it!! Regards John
  10. I am currently restoring a 1914 Kissel Kar 4-40 Semi Racer which uses an Esterline generator system. The Esterline is also used on a 1913 Mitchell, 1913 Stutz, 1914 Knox. According to the "Automotive Wiring Manual" (1912 to 1920) the Esterline generator is connected to a "Series B Controller". Does anyone have any info on this device....is it maybe internal to the generator... Thanks for any help John
  11. I am currently restoring a 1914 Kissel 4-40 Semi Racer with an Esterline generator system. This is the same sytem used on the 1913 Stutz, 1913 Mitchell and 1914 Knox. According to the "Atomotive Wiring Manual" (1912 to 1920) the generator is shown connected to a "Series B Controller". Does anyone have any info on this device...Is it maybe internal to the generator?? Thanks for any help John
  12. I assume you are talking about the "shutterstat". I had one made up for my 1930 "70" roadster. The guy who did it was James Otto located in Knoxville, TN. Contact info is : 865-966-9494; SYLENGR@aol.com He did a great job
  13. Looks like a mascot from a 1933 Chrysler CQ Imperial???
  14. I have a 1930 Chrysler 70 Roadster with shutter-stat radiator and had a new shutter-stat fabricated by James Otto. He did a great job and it works perfectly. His contact is: James Otto 10700 Alameda Drive Knoxville, TN 37932 email: sylengr@aol.com 865-966-9494
  15. I am currently restoring a 1914 Kissel semi-racer and am in desparate need of a generator. I believe it came with an Esterline E-6, though not completly sure this is correct. Any help or leads would be greatly appreciated Thanks John
  16. Bryon I would highly recommend Blue Highways out of Knoxville, IA. (800-622-6601 0r 641-828-7290) They've hauled 2 cars to California for me and did a great job...on time pick up and delivery. Good people to work with John Quam
  17. Can anyone please tell what car and year the following Mopar Master Cylinder is for: DCPD #19; Casing Stamped 665919 NH. I need to get a rebuild kit so need the car, year etc. it is for. It is currently installed on my 1930 Chrysler 70 Roadster, however, I sure its not the original Thanks, John
  18. This is a very difficult part to find and I'm not aware of anyone doing repro's of the switch. You may want to try Jay at astheime@ptd.net. He deals in 20's and 30's Chrysler parts. John
  19. I've got 4 18" tires you are welcome to use if you still need them. I'm located in Montara Ca...just south of Pacifica or north of Half Moon Bay You can respond to q2jazz@sbcglobal.net
  20. Restorer32 I see from your post you are familiar with Kissel's. I am currently restoring a 1914 Kissel semi-racer and am in need of the chain drive generator...I have the chain and a picture of the generator, however it is missing from the car. Would you happen to know where I might get one?? Thanks, John Quam q2jazz@sbcglobal.net
  21. Hi, The shutterstat for my 1930 Chrysler "70" Roadster was completely missing and I had one made. The gentleman that built it did a great job. His contact info is: James Otto 10700 Alameda Drive Knoxville, TN 865-966-9494 SYLENGR@aol.com Good luck, John
  22. Thanks for the help...I'll check it out
  23. Help!! Does anyone know where I can purchase a pair of rear outer axle oil seals for my 1930 "70" Roadster...I've tried Roberts, Burnbaum. Thanks for any help you can give!!
  24. I had a problem with the left rear brake not releasing when the brake pedal was released and the right rear releasing slowly. I pulled the rear hubs and everything looked okay, however, the only way the LR brake would release was to open the bleeder. All the hoses have been replaced...In going over the rear system I found a kink in right rigid brake line, so I replaced both R&L rigid lines. The rear brakes now seem to operate properly, however, I now have very little brake pedal (approx 1-2"off floor). I bled the system and don't seem to get any more air, however, the brake pedal is about half of what is was before I replaced the lines. Any ideas???
  25. I'm interested...please email me at q2jazz@sbcglobal.net Thanks, John
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