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59 98

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Everything posted by 59 98

  1. Sounds like bs to me. I have neither seen nor heard of a 63 with dual carbs, and definately not on a 401, since the 425 was available in 63. All 63s had the adjustable pinion angle bar on the rear end as well as two anti-sway/panhard bars, too. I am not really sure what 'duals 11 in brakes aluminum' means, either, maybe possibly referring to the front drums (?). When he says custom interior, it makes me wonder if it is the black 4-speed LeSabre coupe with red/white custom interior offered on CL about a year ago from that general area, even though he did not mention 4-speed. I missed it by one call (ugh), but I do remember the woman selling it mentioning something about the interior being a non-original white/red tuck and roll. I'll try to see if I have the ad save somewhere. When people make claims of '1 of 11' and so on, I sure wish they'd provide some sort of reference as to where the numbers came from. Matt
  2. WildBill, probably whatever one would want for one, it's not like people have been knocking my door down to sell one. So... do you have some good news for me? Tell you what, just throw it in the trunk of that white car I have been after and we'll make a deal! hehe Thank you! Matt
  3. Here's the white one, Adam. It is at GM Obsolete in Phoenix. http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/V8BuickRides/Roadtrip2008/RoadtripErik542.jpg http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=166273&page=7 The back glass looks to be in good shape. W/S looks like it may have a crack, though.
  4. Man, Adam, is that car fighting back or what? What a bummer about the back glass. My LTD I sold to Lamar had a perfect back glass and I bet he still has it. It'd be worth a call. If that doesn't pan out, I do remember a white LTD 4 door in a salvage yard that Bad Boattail from the Netherlands took a photo of on his cross country trip. I believe it was in AZ, but I'll have to dig back through his photos to find it. Matt
  5. dei, just thought of something. I measured the one in my 58 Sedan deVille, and in the center of the glass, just measuring the glass from the upper inside edge of the rubber seal to the lower inside edge of the rubber seal (measuring just the glass, not the seal), it is 21" even. Put a tape measure on yours, and if it is 21", it should be for a 4 door. Adam, we'll get you an original glass yet! Matt
  6. I no longer have my 58 4 door, but just judging from the photo, that w/s looks taller than the one in the conv. Without a positive measure, it looks right, but you might want to wait until someone with a 4 door chimes in. I do have a 58 Sedan deVille that I can measure, they might be the same w/s as the LTD 4 door. Matt
  7. V.G., that is one awesome car! Man, a luxury car with buckets and console, doesn't get any better than that. I have bought a few cars here recently and can't do another right now, but I will forward these pics to a good friend of mine that likes nice originals. Good luck! Matt
  8. I don't have the numbers, but the front w/s will be a little taller than the back glass, and would have the tint band across the top. Also, it is two-piece laminated safety glass, whereas the rear glass is a one piece tempered. Too bad, because rear glasses are much easier to ship than windshields, they are much tougher. As long as the RM wasn't a coupe/conv, it'll be the same. Have fun! Matt
  9. John, I have heard of them installed in Rivieras, as well as stick shift cars (my black 4-speed Wildcat has one), so I think you could order a 3.91 for any full size car, even in an Electra sedan! Buick stamped the gear ratio right on the bottom of the axle housing, but if in a salvage, it'd be very tough to find or see if the car is on the ground. The stampings are usually fairly light, so if the housing is rusty, the numbers would be gone. An easy way to tell is to spin the tires, but again, in a salvage most of the time this is impossible. The cast-iron center section (carrier) for the posi units has a small stamped circle with a stamped X in it to denote it as a posi, but again, you have to be either under the car to see it if it is still in the housing, or have the center section out and then visually inspect it. With the unit out, you can count the teeth or read the numbers on the gears to get the ratio. Heck, it doesn't have to be a 3.91, if you find any 63-64 Buick posi units, get them. Unlike the many Pontiac posi cars, it is odd that with the torque of the 401s and 425s more people didn't get the posi rear ends. Bryan, I have many I can get a photo of, but I am at home right now. When I get to the shop, I will post one. That is one thing you will find out with the Buicks, most of their parts are for Buicks only, including all the stick shift stuff, posi units, rear ends, etc. That's what makes them so d#%n cool! Thanks again! Matt
  10. If it is from a 4 door hdtp RM, the windshield would be the same as the LTD 4 door hdtp.
  11. John, yes they do, though they are rare. In my 64 parts book, it shows part number 1396098 as being a positive traction diff. package for ratios 3.36, 3.58, 3.91, and 4.45 - all special order. Not really interested in a 4.45, but I do want a 3.91.
  12. OK, I know this is going to be tough, but I am looking for an original 3.91 posi unit for a 64 Wildcat/Electra/Riviera. If you have one or know of one for sale, please let me know! Thank you, Matt
  13. Greg, are you interested in selling the conv? Matt
  14. From what I have heard, it is a legit car, and so far sold to the first caller. I was caller #3. UGH...
  15. Yep, I am on it. Probably a line of folks wanting it, though.
  16. Here was the auction for the hinges 320343535405 Check his other auctions.
  17. There was a guy parting a 51 Woodie on eBay. Check the completed auctions, he had the tailgate wood for patterns, hinges, latches, rear fenders, and so on. This has been in the last two weeks, so it is pretty recent. Matt
  18. It has backup lights?!? Crush it...
  19. I know, I have seen and personally have dozens of 64 speedos, and have never seen one without speedminder. I did not think it was a standard feature, so I was thinking one has to exist w/o the hole and minder dial. Is the one w/o the hole on the new 3-speed?
  20. I have two excellent side moldings for the left and right quarter panels for a two door hardtop LeSabre.
  21. Tom, the VIN tag is about 4" lower than where it should be and has an obvious screw in it. According to my 64 which I just looked at, the VIN should be spot-welded on the flat area just above the courtesy light button, whereas this one is below the button on an area that is not very flat. The car is a Flint car, so at least that is one thing in it's favor to being a real-deal. Another thing odd is the air cleaner snorkels are in the wrong place. When on the motor correctly, the driver's side snorkel should point almost directly to the center of the driver's inner fender, and the right snorkel should point right at the outlet on the upper radiator tank. Either the aircleaner is on the carbs wrong just for the photo (so the snorkels look symmetrical), or the bottom of the cleaner has been changed so it does not have the off-set look they did from the factory. Judging by the chrome water crossover/thermostat tube, chrome fan guard, and chrome alternator bracket, it is possible the air cleaner was just modified. I also noticed the top of the console in front of the shifter is covered in what looks to be black puffy vinyl, the chrome litter box door and tach plate are covered. Strange. Sure would be worth checking out, though. Don't see these very often, and if it is a real-deal, what a cool car. Matt
  22. Hello, I am looking for a speedometer and number lense for a 64 LeSabre, Wildcat, or Electra WITHOUT speedminder. I have never seen one, and would like to find one, and all my extras have the speedminder. I would figure the number lense is the same but without the little hole for the speedminder knob. If anyone can help, please let me know. Thank you, Matt
  23. First of all, is the adjustment problem just in the door sagging at the rear? If so, are the hinges wore - i.e. when you pick up on the back of the door when it is open, do you feel any movement at the hinges that would indicate worn hinge pins and bushings? If there is slop in the hinges, they need replaced because no matter what, there will always be play in the hinges and when the door is opened, it will drop. If you adjust them high to compensate for the drop, you will damage not only the striker, but also the latch and the door shell where the latch mounts. If the hinges are tight and not wore at the hinge pins, it's easy to adjust them. There is a tool for just this procedure, and is a metal tube that looks like a big J with a 2" high by 5" long notched plate on the end, and screw-in inserts for the different vehicle makes' striker sizes. They are sometimes available at parts stores. If you do not have access one of these, I know it may sound a little crude, but this will work too. Get a floor jack and a 10" or so piece of 2x4. Simply place under the rear edge of the door, making sure the entire length of the 2x4 makes contact with the bottom of the door and the jack base is in the center of the wood. I know, it sounds like you might bend the door, but the long length of wood evenly distributes the lifting force of the jack. Don't jack the door up way high, because if the hinges are good, it won't take much. Jack it once until there is upward pressure on the door, and release the jack. Test close the door and see if there was any upward movement. If the doors now fit, cool, but if not, jack it again but with just a tad more pressure. Again, release the pressure and re-test. Like I said, you are not going to have to lift the car off the ground with the door to make them fit. It's easier to jack it up lightly 3 or more times to make them fit than applying too much pressure the first time and possibly damaging the hinges. I forgot to add, don't do this with the door opened up all the way. The door needs to be opened only about 6" or so. Also, when adjusting up, always watch the upper front edge of the door and upper rear edge of the fender. Too much upward pressure will make them touch which usually chips the paint. I know the jack and 2x4 method sounds crude, but it works.
  24. Easy, an awesome father who always had old cars and an endless passion for them.
  25. Dave, I don't know what you are talking about, that truck is not ugly at all. In fact, I really like it, it's just broken in!
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