HarryJ

Also; you can google Rome - Turney Radiator and there are several sites with extensive info on this company.

Very interesting engine; shaft drive overhead cam, dual ignition. Could it be a racing engine or an experimental/prototype? Without markings I would guess it to be a one of a kind. It might be quite significant.

Stude light....I cracked a light six head trying to remove it (cuss word!)...and I spent a good bit of time slowly working it off......as per the PA, if it works I wouldn't mess with it.

I lofted out the old "Atlanta Speed Shop Building" and have my collection and shop in there.

Are you a member of the Lincoln Owner's Club......if not that would be a good spot to locate one.

How much is one in very good drivable condition worth?

Small universe.......

Hey guys....thanks for the thanks.....however, I think hwellens is giving you the data.

hwellens...The car I need spring info on is a series "A" 1930 Pierce Arrow.

By the way, I was looking through my files and found "leaf Spring Data Manual, Volume 12" compiled by the Leaf Spring institute. It covers springs up to and including three ton units for cars 1946 thru 1956. Are there earlier versions available out there?

Rusty...Jim...Thanks, Jim you brought up issue I anticipated; that being a similar spring (performance wise) to the original could be made, yet, would not look like the original.

Is it better to have springs rearched; or should you have new ones made? Can anyone recommend a leaf spring manufacturer that can reproduce leaf springs of the twenties/thirties duplicating tapers etc. to make the springs look like the originals. Or is there a NOS supplier out there?

Whatever the back car is; it looks brand new.

Where did he obtain the body.......if it came off a '11 Cadillac, could it be custom/one off....or early replacement?

I just remove each old fitting drop it in some solvent; meanwhile, I screw in a modern fitting; lube up the site then put the cleaned old fitting back. Note, not all of the sites require grease. Some require heavy oil. Check your owner's manual.

I would keep these parts...they are period and I'll bet there is someone out there that could use them.

Motoringicons....Caddyshack..................Thanks, cranked the beast up today...backfired a little at first then evened out ...let her run for a while with the gas up, spark retarted .....slowly eased off the gas and cut back on the spark retard...she leveled out as the carb rid itself of gunk from the dead gas...

Thanks Motoringicons!

Just went through my poor "A" model...it had been sitting for 4 or 5 years since I last started/ran it. I lubricated all the grease fittings, changed the oil, checked the timing, points, spark gap, put a little oil in each cylinder, turned it over by hand several turns. Pumped up all of the tires, topped off the transmission, steering box and rear end with 600w oil, drained what little dead gas there was (pint at most), and sprayed some carb cleaner in the gas inlet port of the carb. I did not dismantle the Tillotson carb. My questions are; how many turns open do you set the choke rod adjustment and how many turns open do you set the idle/run adjustment (horizontal screw above bowl going into throat area?

Check for heavy sediment in the water jackets...possible sediment/clogs in the radiator

Thanks Linus.....This is excellent info....

It ain't easy to remove old studs........The old ones are stretched and brittle....If you feel you can remove them; I would suggest you try....or you could retain a master machinist; get him to attempt it....Do it right while you have it down.

The back of the steering column housing comes off....and from there you should be able to remove the switch....If you have the original armoured cable and switch...you are very lucky. Where are you located

Yep....It's a model "T" running board.

By the way that's a great looking car!