bobs1916

MYERS Vintage Dodge parts has reproduced the gauge assembly

DO NOT add bolts. Very often the same sized drum from later model cars were used as a replacement as they were identical except drilled for the spokes as later models used bolts. bob

Bill do you still need the 25 inch wheels ??? I have a set. I want to sell as a set One needs a rim replaced and I have it . Send me a PM or email at bob487thbg@aol.com and we can discuss details bob

Hello all anybody have a source for steam bent oak bows? No I don't want to try this myself!! Thanks bob

Thanks all

I am in need of 1 or 2 32x4 NONSKID Firestones. They need to have moderate tread or better remaining. Thanks for checking . bob

Mike my glass was made in Danbury 1/4 in laminated so it is safe bob

Mike I have some spare end caps. Also re windshield are you also planning to use the original U channel along with the tape. ? That is the flexible metal channel that inserts into the windshield frame itself. I did and then used a thin tape with 1/4 inch to set my glass. bob in CT

Hi I have a Garford horn but it not the exact same model. I bought it for my '16 and then found the exact one. It is slightly smaller and you will need to use the bracket that you have. Send me a PM with your email and I will send details bob

Once again Bob to the rescue!!!

Mark did you try vintage power wagons??? bob

bob I have one you can have for the price of shipping from CT Has the ring Has rust but still solid bob

Hello I have restored 3 vintage DBs with the help of both the vendors you mention. Both are fine businesses who sometimes cannot get right back to you. However their help and knowledge is always appreciated and if you need parts they both can be of service. HAVE NO FEARS!!! bob

NOW IN BOLD PRINT "NO RESERVE" 15K reserve not met!!!!! Not only is spelling an issue but credibility is no where to be found. Would YOU buy a used car from this guy????

I used POR-15 worked great filled minor pinholes and resistant to fuel

those numbered pieces are the BRACKETS that clamp the top when it is lowered. They are attached to the L and R side of the body. The sockets are the tapered hollow tubes that receive the wooden bows. The "iron" I believe are the flat iron struts that connect to the sockets with the associated fittings. . John in CA can rebuild all the often rusted out sockets and replace any rivets. He does need a core as stated.

hello my 16 is in the 76000 range and NO front skirt and short wheelbase. bob

Yes the outer bearing is towards the rear end. Did you disconnect the drive shaft from the transmission ??? Also I removed the rear end You have to remove the 2 brake control rods and the 4 brake shafts. The latter are held by a tapered pin close to the brake assembly. The 4 shafts can be removed once the rear end is dropped. I removed it with the torque tube still attached then removed the tube after. The pinion is held by a castle nut with cotter pin and a keyway on the drive shaft Once the 2 large castle nuts are a bit loose and you have removed the castle nut on the pinion you can tap HARD the driveshaft and the pinion should come off but there must be some play in order for the drive shaft to move . I hope this is a bit more clear. good luck..... it is a pain in the "rear"!

Hello I just completed that on my 1918. I got a near perfect ring and pinion from Tom Myers. Yes getting the two castle nuts out is a pain. Did you get the outer bearing out yet??? The outer castle nut is supposed to drive it out as you turn the spline accessing it through the opening you show in your picture. However I needed HEAT to work the outer one out. We then got a tool from a mercedes mechanic which fit the splines on the big castle nuts exactly. We affixed a big socket and got the nut out . Next tap the other end of the drive shaft to drive the inner bearing out. Then the entire shaft will be free. You can make the tool I describe. I got all the NOS bearings from Tom as well. My threads were impregnated with the messed up metal shards from the ring so I had similar problems getting the nuts off. . The previous owner let the rear end run dry! Hope that helps

Thanks guys!!

Hello All, After 18 months I have gotten the rare World War One Model 1918 Dodge Light Repair Truck back on the road. Through one of our members I learned that its previous owner of over 50 years was ready to let it go. He had bought it from a neighbor farmer who had bought it surplus after the First World War There are only 8000 miles on it. The last owner had put on no more than 100 miles in 50 years. It required a magneto , linkage,radiator, exhaust, dash and gauges, canvas, complete rebuild of rear end, running boards,lighting,body work and paint, BUT has a strong engine and transmission and a complete original body. There were 1012 made and only 4 survivors are known and only 2 are running. I had it at FDR's home in Hyde Park NY for a salute to our veterans for Memorial Day. Bobhttp://www.globalarray.net/user/bobspics/fdr2011a.JPG

hi I believe I got them from universal tires . bob

Much better to get the correct bent stem tubes. There is no adapter that I am aware of. I have disc wheels on one of my cars and the bent stem is the way to go.

Hi Vern Will that settles that. I guess I can't be of any help here!!!

Hi Mike I am also in CT I have a 16 17 and 18 DB. The splash aprons are often beat up rusted out and replacements are NOT available . I have fabricated my own but I have access to a metal roller. I might have a restorable one around from an 18 that should fit. bob