tjackmil
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Posts posted by tjackmil
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Thanks everyone - I called my mechanic this morning and he knew someone who did repo's: I left the car with him, and was able to retrieve it late this afternoon with the door opening (no charge). However, as per the norm, the fix for this problem created another - the rubber wiper strip that wipes the door window as it goes up and down now has 2 large cutouts in it - presumably where the "jimmy bar" was inserted. Does anyone know where I can obtain a replacement?
Tom
"89 Red/Ginger/Tan > 175000 miles and still going strong
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Lou,
Thanks for your (as usual) calming advice. I believe that your suggestion is my next logical course. I did remove the inside door handle trim alongwith the leather piece surrounding the door handle. What I found was a panel (kind of feels like tempered masonite) blocking access to the door internals - I could not see any way to remove the actual door handle operator itself.
Next stop - calls to area mechanics.
Tom Jackson
'89 Red/Gin/Tan - >175,000 mi and runs great
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TC Toy-
I like the idea of removing the inside door handle and trying to work the lock rod. I'll try it this afternoon.
Thanks
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Thank you for your replies. I have tried using both the inside and outside handles. It does not appear to me that the lock fully disengages. Either manually or using the electric lock switch, I can see and/or feel the locking button "jam up" just before it releases and sets flush with the door panel. This is where I feel resistance as though the internal linkage is bending.
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Has anyone had this problem and/or a solution? My passenger door is stuck in the closed position. When I try to open the lock or the latch, it feels as though the linkage inside the door is bending and the latch does not release. Any help would be appreciated.
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My shifter button also had the broken "hooks" - I just use a small piece of double sided tape and it has worked fine for 5 years.
Tom
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Mobjak,
My '89 manual says to start at center, 6:00 position, then 12:00, proceed to right (clockwise), then down for #4, jump over to left of center immediately to left of starting bolt, and proceed clockwise as stated.
Torque values are:
1st round - 45 ft-lbs
2nd round - 65 ft-lbs
3rd round - 65 ft-lbs (again)
4th round - +1/4 turn
After 1/4 turn, torque should be 0ver 90 ft-lbs; if not, manual says to replace bolt.
Tom
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Merry Christmas to you also! Enjoyed the track. Thank you.
Tom
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Has anyone had any experience with a company called "Trimcar" in Florida? Their website offers custom leather seat covers at several ratios - 100% leather, 70% -50% - and a plush vinyl. I was quoted a price of $ 549.00 for a complete set of plush vinyl covers for my 1989 red/ginger TC. this would include the headrests and console cover. The reply I received from the company said that they had done "several" TC's recently - if so, I would think that at least a few of them would be viewers of this forum. I would be interested in knowing your opinion as to quality, fit, appearance, and ease of installation.
Tom
TCA 2025
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My 1989 service manual lists the following:
Wheelbase - 93.3"
Front Track - 57.6"
Rear Track - 57.6"
Overall Length - 175.8"
Overall Width - 68.5"
Overall Height - 52.7"
Head Room - 37.4"
Leg Room - 42.3"
Shoulder Room - 55.9"
Hip Room - 55.9"
Hope this helps.
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Those fuses are for your anti-lock system. I had a similar problem upon returning from a week-end trip to Vermont. As I pulled into my driveway, my anti-lock light came on. Strangely, I also got a brake warning light at the same time, which indicated both an anti-lock failure and hydraulic system problem. Upon replacing the fuse, both lights went out, and my braking system was fine.
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Larry,
Thanks for your quick reply. I have not had the accumulator "formally" checked; however, I follow a routine outlined a few years ago in the newsletter to determine the general condition of the accumulator (I think you wrote the article!). After starting the car, I wait for the antilock light to go out, then I pump the brakes, after 8 - 10 pumps, my antilock light comes back on, but I believe that the article indicated that this was a "generally" normal operation. Anyway, I usually perform this test at least once a month. I will check for dirt accumulation at the sensors as suggested as I recently had work done on the car and its possible some alignment may have changed.
Tom
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Went cruising yesterday for about 6 hours. Sometime during the 6th hour, my antilock warning light came on. Brakes appeared to function normally, so I kept driving. Upon arriving home, I turned the car off, then restarted it - the antilock light came on for a few seconds, then went out, seemed like normal operation - drove for several miles, and the antilock light did not come on again. I believe that the antilock light by itself indicates a possible computer problem, both the antilock light and the brake warning light indicates hydraulic problems as well. The question I have is: Does the antilock light coming on indicate a potential computer failure, even though it does not come on anymore (except for the start-up sequence)? As I said, all braking functions seem normal.
Tom
TCA # 2025
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Just wondering what the diameter of the tire was with the 17 inch rims - if OD increased same as ratio of 15 to 17 rim, you would expect calculated gas mileage to drop (apparent) to 23. You actually travelled more than the odometer would indicate.
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Larry,
Thank you for your reply, but I want to make sure I understand. Are you saying that the pull-down housing cracking can impact the ability of the side manual latches to catch? My pull-down system appears to work fine, I just can't keep my manual side latches closed. I do have that issue of the newsletter, and I will review it this evening. Again, thank you.
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Larry's numbers look pretty good! The window sticker for my '89 shows $33,550.00, including the $550.00 destination charge.
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I've had my TC for 5 years now, with most problems expected and corrected. This year, when I installed my hardtop, the latches behind the seats (side manual clamps) keep popping open. I removed the top and tried some teflon spray lube, but the problem persists. Any Ideas?
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I really like the new display format.
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I have an 89 Tc which I have owned for 5 years. During that time, the rear speakers have not worked. If I position the joystick to full rear and crank up the volume to full, I get extremely distorted sound from them. At the recent Chrysler Nationals, I spoke with other TC owners who suggested that I might have a problem with a ground connection. This past weekend, I pulled the right lower speaker out and investigated. There were several wires from the harness connection going into an electronic module (amplifier?), with two wires coming from the module and soldered to two connections to the speaker. When I grounded one of those connections, the entire rear speaker system came to life and sounded great. However, when riding that evening, I detected a burning smell which I feared might be caused by my grounding jumper, so I turned off the radio and headed home to investigate. Upon pulling the speaked out again, I determined that the odor was coming from the speaker, and that the electronics module was very hot. However, my ground jumper did not show any signs of overheating. After all of the above discourse, my questions are: 1) could the grounding jumper present a fire hazard?; 2) Given that amplifiers typically operate quite hot, was the burning odor detected caused by years of accumulated dust "burning off" of the electronic parts? I would really like to reconnect the grounding jumper as the sound quality was greatly improved, but I am not prepared to risk a fire. Any thought on this issue would be appreciated.
Electric Radiator Fan Problems
in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
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Hey Bob,
You don't say what year or engine you have, but the service manual for my '89 8 valve says that the fan will come on at 5/8 gauge travel and cycle off at 1/2 gauge travel. maybe nothing is wrong at all.
Tom