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tjackmil

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Posts posted by tjackmil

  1. Hemi,

     

    Thanks for the advice - I am retaining this whole thread for future reference.  I also have the rear caliper adjustment sequence filed and usually let my mechanic have any and all pertinent info I have available.

     

    Again - Thanks

     

    Tom

  2. Finally got my car back – Degerb, you were right on with the parking brake problem: my right rear caliper was hanging up.  They lubed it heavily, and I will keep driving it hoping that the caliper will loosen up, if not, then I guess I will need to replace both rears.  As for the brake lights staying on – it turns out that the fixture that holds the brake light switch failed, allowing the switch to move back into the holder so that the striker plate could not make contact.  My mechanic reused the old switch and made up a “spacer” which keeps the switch in the proper position, so now the brake lights work as they are supposed to.  (Sorry about ending that sentence with a preposition!)  Thank  you everyone for your help and suggestions.  Tom

  3. Degerb,

     

    Thanks for the input - I will have my mechanic check your possible problem points on Monday, but he did tell me that the "return spring" on the parking brake was broken.  I don't really see any of this in my service manual, and I have not crawled under the dash to look, so I am depending on his input.  His shop is the one that converted my brakes, however, the mechanic that did the work was involved in a serious accident several months ago, and has not returned to work yet.

     

    Tom

  4. Hello all,

     

    I have an '89 8- valve with automatic trans - I am in need of the brake light switch and the parking brake ratchet - are these standard Chrysler parts?  BTW, my braking system has been changed over to the LeBaron system per Hemi's article on Allpar.  Don't believe that that should change the parts that I am after.  (Reason - brake lights won't go off, can't adjust switch so lights will go off;  parking brake warning light stays on unless I lift the foot pedal with my foot)

     

    Tom

  5. Thanks everyone - I called my mechanic this morning and he knew someone who did repo's: I left the car with him, and was able to retrieve it late this afternoon with the door opening (no charge). However, as per the norm, the fix for this problem created another - the rubber wiper strip that wipes the door window as it goes up and down now has 2 large cutouts in it - presumably where the "jimmy bar" was inserted. Does anyone know where I can obtain a replacement?

    Tom

    "89 Red/Ginger/Tan > 175000 miles and still going strong

  6. Lou,

    Thanks for your (as usual) calming advice. I believe that your suggestion is my next logical course. I did remove the inside door handle trim alongwith the leather piece surrounding the door handle. What I found was a panel (kind of feels like tempered masonite) blocking access to the door internals - I could not see any way to remove the actual door handle operator itself.

    Next stop - calls to area mechanics.

    Tom Jackson

    '89 Red/Gin/Tan - >175,000 mi and runs great

  7. Thank you for your replies. I have tried using both the inside and outside handles. It does not appear to me that the lock fully disengages. Either manually or using the electric lock switch, I can see and/or feel the locking button "jam up" just before it releases and sets flush with the door panel. This is where I feel resistance as though the internal linkage is bending.

  8. Has anyone had this problem and/or a solution? My passenger door is stuck in the closed position. When I try to open the lock or the latch, it feels as though the linkage inside the door is bending and the latch does not release. Any help would be appreciated.

  9. Mobjak,

    My '89 manual says to start at center, 6:00 position, then 12:00, proceed to right (clockwise), then down for #4, jump over to left of center immediately to left of starting bolt, and proceed clockwise as stated.

    Torque values are:

    1st round - 45 ft-lbs

    2nd round - 65 ft-lbs

    3rd round - 65 ft-lbs (again)

    4th round - +1/4 turn

    After 1/4 turn, torque should be 0ver 90 ft-lbs; if not, manual says to replace bolt.

    Tom

  10. Has anyone had any experience with a company called "Trimcar" in Florida? Their website offers custom leather seat covers at several ratios - 100% leather, 70% -50% - and a plush vinyl. I was quoted a price of $ 549.00 for a complete set of plush vinyl covers for my 1989 red/ginger TC. this would include the headrests and console cover. The reply I received from the company said that they had done "several" TC's recently - if so, I would think that at least a few of them would be viewers of this forum. I would be interested in knowing your opinion as to quality, fit, appearance, and ease of installation.

    Tom

    TCA 2025

  11. My 1989 service manual lists the following:

    Wheelbase - 93.3"

    Front Track - 57.6"

    Rear Track - 57.6"

    Overall Length - 175.8"

    Overall Width - 68.5"

    Overall Height - 52.7"

    Head Room - 37.4"

    Leg Room - 42.3"

    Shoulder Room - 55.9"

    Hip Room - 55.9"

    Hope this helps.

  12. Those fuses are for your anti-lock system. I had a similar problem upon returning from a week-end trip to Vermont. As I pulled into my driveway, my anti-lock light came on. Strangely, I also got a brake warning light at the same time, which indicated both an anti-lock failure and hydraulic system problem. Upon replacing the fuse, both lights went out, and my braking system was fine.

  13. Larry,

    Thanks for your quick reply. I have not had the accumulator "formally" checked; however, I follow a routine outlined a few years ago in the newsletter to determine the general condition of the accumulator (I think you wrote the article!). After starting the car, I wait for the antilock light to go out, then I pump the brakes, after 8 - 10 pumps, my antilock light comes back on, but I believe that the article indicated that this was a "generally" normal operation. Anyway, I usually perform this test at least once a month. I will check for dirt accumulation at the sensors as suggested as I recently had work done on the car and its possible some alignment may have changed.

    Tom

  14. Went cruising yesterday for about 6 hours. Sometime during the 6th hour, my antilock warning light came on. Brakes appeared to function normally, so I kept driving. Upon arriving home, I turned the car off, then restarted it - the antilock light came on for a few seconds, then went out, seemed like normal operation - drove for several miles, and the antilock light did not come on again. I believe that the antilock light by itself indicates a possible computer problem, both the antilock light and the brake warning light indicates hydraulic problems as well. The question I have is: Does the antilock light coming on indicate a potential computer failure, even though it does not come on anymore (except for the start-up sequence)? As I said, all braking functions seem normal.

    Tom

    TCA # 2025

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