tjackmil

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Posts posted by tjackmil


  1. Hemi,

     

    Thanks for the advice - I am retaining this whole thread for future reference.  I also have the rear caliper adjustment sequence filed and usually let my mechanic have any and all pertinent info I have available.

     

    Again - Thanks

     

    Tom


  2. Finally got my car back – Degerb, you were right on with the parking brake problem: my right rear caliper was hanging up.  They lubed it heavily, and I will keep driving it hoping that the caliper will loosen up, if not, then I guess I will need to replace both rears.  As for the brake lights staying on – it turns out that the fixture that holds the brake light switch failed, allowing the switch to move back into the holder so that the striker plate could not make contact.  My mechanic reused the old switch and made up a “spacer” which keeps the switch in the proper position, so now the brake lights work as they are supposed to.  (Sorry about ending that sentence with a preposition!)  Thank  you everyone for your help and suggestions.  Tom


  3. Degerb,

     

    Thanks for the input - I will have my mechanic check your possible problem points on Monday, but he did tell me that the "return spring" on the parking brake was broken.  I don't really see any of this in my service manual, and I have not crawled under the dash to look, so I am depending on his input.  His shop is the one that converted my brakes, however, the mechanic that did the work was involved in a serious accident several months ago, and has not returned to work yet.

     

    Tom


  4. Hello all,

     

    I have an '89 8- valve with automatic trans - I am in need of the brake light switch and the parking brake ratchet - are these standard Chrysler parts?  BTW, my braking system has been changed over to the LeBaron system per Hemi's article on Allpar.  Don't believe that that should change the parts that I am after.  (Reason - brake lights won't go off, can't adjust switch so lights will go off;  parking brake warning light stays on unless I lift the foot pedal with my foot)

     

    Tom


  5. After losing my brakes four times (fuses once, accumulator twice, who knows this time), I've decided to convert my brakes per Hemi's article on Allpar.  I've asked my mechanic to use new parts, but he is having trouble finding the proportioning valve.  All of the sources I've tried tell me that an '89 Lebaron does not have a proportioning valve.  Can anyone point me in the right direction?

    Thanks

     


  6. It would appear that these knurled posts have actually pulled out of the lamp housing itself.

    With the hard roof REMOVED and the tonneau cover opened to access the bottom side of the stainless strip, you should observe 2 philips head screws. Remove the screws, the posts should now come free. Disconnect the wire connector so you can remove the 3rd lamp altogether. You should be able to epoxy the 2 posts back in, CAREFULLY, being sure not to mess the threads up inside the posts.

    Hemi,

    Thank you for your spot on analysis. I have removed the posts and now need to epoxy the threaded inserts (very small) back into the lamp housing. It is kind of what I anticipated, but I really needed to hear from someone with a lot more confidence than I before I really started to tackle it. Again, thanks a lot.

    Tom


  7. Hello All,

    Today I noticed that my third stoplight is apparently just hanging on the wires. A closer look shows two posts coming from the tonneau trim strip up into the light fixture. Theses two posts are not connected to the light fixture. I see knurled knobs on the top of the posts that appear to fit into two sockets in the fixture, but I see no way to tighten them or "fix" them to the light fixture. Can anyone help as to how these posts should be attached to the light fixture?

    Thank you,

    Tom


  8. Is it possible that your idle speed is too low? Manual gives allowable range of 650 to 900 RPM (measured with Diagnostic Tool, not dashboard tach). The fact that you say it smooths out when speed increases to 800-900 RPM would lead me to try to get an accurate reading on your real idle speed.


  9. Thanks everyone - I called my mechanic this morning and he knew someone who did repo's: I left the car with him, and was able to retrieve it late this afternoon with the door opening (no charge). However, as per the norm, the fix for this problem created another - the rubber wiper strip that wipes the door window as it goes up and down now has 2 large cutouts in it - presumably where the "jimmy bar" was inserted. Does anyone know where I can obtain a replacement?

    Tom

    "89 Red/Ginger/Tan > 175000 miles and still going strong


  10. Lou,

    Thanks for your (as usual) calming advice. I believe that your suggestion is my next logical course. I did remove the inside door handle trim alongwith the leather piece surrounding the door handle. What I found was a panel (kind of feels like tempered masonite) blocking access to the door internals - I could not see any way to remove the actual door handle operator itself.

    Next stop - calls to area mechanics.

    Tom Jackson

    '89 Red/Gin/Tan - >175,000 mi and runs great


  11. Thank you for your replies. I have tried using both the inside and outside handles. It does not appear to me that the lock fully disengages. Either manually or using the electric lock switch, I can see and/or feel the locking button "jam up" just before it releases and sets flush with the door panel. This is where I feel resistance as though the internal linkage is bending.


  12. Has anyone had this problem and/or a solution? My passenger door is stuck in the closed position. When I try to open the lock or the latch, it feels as though the linkage inside the door is bending and the latch does not release. Any help would be appreciated.